Porcelynne’s Eve Cups Redesigned

Hello. I’m sorry it’s been so long since I’ve posted. I had an odd after-affect from a cold. I had so much pain in my one hand, I could hardly do anything with it. It’s slowly improving, and I’m hoping to get back to normal soon.

I have many sewing plans so need my hand 100%! So, what have I been doing? I’ve been testing the re-designed Eve bra. 

Eve Classic Bra Bundled Pattern - image 1

Jennifer and I agreed the regular Eve cups did not fit me. So I tried the Vertical cups. They are part of the Eve Classic Bra pattern – which is now available. It has the regular cup, Vertical cups, and Demi cups.

Jennifer and I agreed that we were close, but think the Demi cups will be the best fit for me.

I’ve cut out my first pair and they were too small. I have the next size all sewn up and will be putting those into my fitting band right away.

Eve Classic Bra Cup

Let me tell you a few things that impressed me with the Eve cups.

I was using a 38 wire, but to help with side coverage, we made my cradle a 42 wire length. What amazed me over and over was how the cup fit into this cradle WITH NO ALTERATIONS!!!

Honestly, this was amazing to me. Stunning in fact. After the many years of so many alterations to get a cup to fit in a smaller cradle, this really did amaze me.

Jennifer has designed all these cups to fit into different cradles. For example, a D cup that would fit a 38 wire cradle, and a D cup that fits a 40 wire cradle, and one that fits a 42 wire cradle, and so on. The same for the E cup, and the F cup, and so on up and down the cup size range. All designed for each cup to fit different sizes of wires/cradles. All with no extra work on your part.

Here take a look:    Do you see where the cup joins the side seam? There isn’t a dart in the cup. There are no gatherings along the wire line. No, this cup is simply designed to fit into this size cradle.

That might not seem like a big deal when most patterns’ cups fit into the cradle – but that doesn’t work when you are an Omega! No, that means adjustments. But not with this pattern.

If you’re wondering, I could have used a cup that fit into a 38 cradle too – but I really don’t get enough side coverage and support with that.  

I don’t know of another bra-maker/designer who has done this for each cup size! There are hundreds of cups. I promised to tell you something else about the side of this bra. Do you see where that red line is? That’s where my wire ends. Normally, if the side of the bra was raised up this much higher than the wire, the side seam would be flopping over. Not here.

The reason is Jennifer had me sew a strip of channeling as close as I could beside the wire channeling, Then insert a piece of boning there. It worked perfectly. It gave me a little more side coverage which I need, and I can’t feel it there.

I am honestly very impressed with the redesigned Eve cup pattern. If you have problems fitting your bra cups into your frame like me, or even if you want an incredibly designed cup, really, give these a try.

Happy creating!

P.S. I’ll be back soon.

Brenda Briefs View D

I made another pair of the new Porcelynne pattern – the Brenda Brief. The pattern has four styles, and loving lace as I do, I made the other style with lace.

I have a lovely black and red lace on my cutting table so thought I’d make something that would coordinate with that.

I think these are darling! I really do love the lace on the side on this pattern. So pretty.

One thing I did differently on these than the last pair is I didn’t use FOE.

Let’s take a closer look, shall we?

  This is clear to see, I used a fabric band for the waist instead of FOE. This is quite easy to see.

This is harder to see (although I overexposed it) I also used fabric bands instead of FOE at the leg opening. I wanted something just a little softer, and thought I’d experiment.

I think it turned out wonderfully. It looks the same as FOE.

Isn’t that a lovely side view?

Lastly, there’s the back view.

Another very pretty view of that lace.

These look like briefs on my model here, but they are true hipsters. They aren’t a difficult sew, but the joining of the FOE and lace is a touch tricky. Thankfully, there’s a sew-along video coming to show you how to do that.

This is another lovely pattern from Porcelynne.

Happy creating!

Starry Nights Collection

In December, Beverly Johnson sent out a request for testers to test a new pattern of hers. I knew we’d be moving, but I also knew if all I did for the next month or more was pack and unpack, I’d be miserable. I knew I needed a creative outlet too. So, I volunteered, and I’m really glad I did.

The Starry Nights Collection is a great lougewear/nightwear collection. It has three-length options, as well as a capri option.I made the full-length Luna option. I used a beautiful turquoise cotton Lycra, with some coordinating lace on the inner cups.

The cup option I made isn’t show, but was easy to do. Just use lace for the inner cups only on the Luna.My Luna is a bit big for me, but I’d rather have loose for sleeping than tight. However, my mind is full of ideas for how to change this up.

Another change I made was to do two spaghetti straps per side instead of the adjustable bra strap option.  

One idea I have came from the Monica Bravo’s class in the Great Bra Sewing Bee (now the International Bra Sewing Bee). She adapted her Sweet Sixteen bralette. I took notes during the bee, and plan to try some of the changes she made – like narrowing the cradle for a more supportive bralette.

Another idea came from FB ads. Right around the same time Beverly sent out her tester call, I started seeing ads from Montelle Intimates. I was so surprised because the cups on this is the same style as the Starry Nights Collection’s.      There’s a link in the photo (from their web page) that will take you right to this lovely chemise.

Seeing this got me really excited for possibilities for the new Starry Nights Collection. In fact, the day after I finished my Luna, I dreamt all night about making changes, and I woke ready to forget unpacking some more and wanting to get back to my sewing room!

Happy creating!

Jessica’s Twin

Here’s a little of the back story to my Jessica’s Twin I shared last week. 

I was asked to test Jessica’s Twin. I like the Angie pattern so much, I was happy to test this pattern. 

I’ve made a few Angie bras in the past, and I had bought Angie’s Twin. I’d even bought the Jessica pattern, but I hadn’t sewn it up yet.One of the reasons I hadn’t tried the Jessica pattern is I have to make adjustments to my bra cups so they’ll fit in a smaller frame. Omega: larger cups, with a smaller frame and wires.

I’d been told the best way to make these adjustments was in the seams of the bra’s cups. And the more seams a cup has the better. Take a little dart out here and there and hide them all in the seams. It’s a great solution.

But Jessica only has one cup seam. I needed to think of other places I could remove a little without changing the shape of the cup or removing too much volume, because I still need that volume.This is what I tried, and I have to say, I was pretty close. I still need to take in the underarm a little, but other than that, I got a great fit.

Here is the side view. You can see where I need to adjust the side cup. I have it pinned.Well, maybe it’s not so clear. Here’s a close up.You can see I just have a little bit folded under there. Probably 1/4″ x 2 removed from the underarm there and it will fit absolutely perfectly. Not bad for a first time testing the pattern. And isn’t that purple elastic so pretty with the navy?

To make the underarm smaller, I used this adjustment from Cloth Habit’s blog: This is a great adjustment when you don’t want the cup size to be smaller, but just the amount of fabric in the underarm area. This works perfectly!

And just to share one more time, here is my Jessica’s Twin.I really am happy with this. I didn’t think I could make a cup with only one seam work for me.

Happy creating!

Jessica’s Twin Two

This is my second Jessica’s Twin by B,Wear. I’ll share more about my first one in my next post. I’ll also share the alterations I had to make.

Here’s my (altered for Omega) Jessica’s Twin. I love this! It’s a burn-out mesh over duoplex. And it’s so fun. I have a little bit left. Matching panties perhaps?

You’ve seen this material before. I used it for one of my submissions to the Bra-Makers Challenge. We needed something sheer, and this has some sheer areas.  On the bra for the BMS challenge, I used the burn-out mesh on it’s own. On this one, I’ve used it over power net. I wasn’t looking for sheer on this bra.It’s so fun! When I first started sewing bras, I experimented a little and I tried using Lycra and mesh over power net. It gives a wonderfully supportive feel. It adds support, but it isn’t too much like two layers of power net would feel. This isn’t too much. It feels a little more supportive.

And lastly, here’s the bra from the side.When I tried this on to see how the adjustments I’d made were, it fit so perfectly and was so comfortable, I didn’t want to take it off for photos. I did, but there was no way I was going to put on my old bra. I need to sew a few more too. I was down to a RTW stretch-cup bra when my size changed.

One more little note, I love the shape that both Angie and Jessica give. They both are so nice and rounded. For me, I feel like I look like I’m wearing a foam cup, but I’m not. They are so nice.

Jessica’s Twin was released this week, and will be featured in The Great Bra Sewing Bee where Bodil will teach a class on making Jessica’s Twin. 

Happy creating!

Testing New Patterns

I’m starting to get my sewjo back! Oh, I can’t tell you how happy that makes me. Honestly, it’s been such a hard year for me. And losing my love for sewing only added to how hard it was.

But. I’m getting my desire to sew back and have had such fun testing a few new patterns.

You read about my testing Sigrid, B,Wear’s new panty pattern. I really do like the pattern! I’m going to make another pair because they are so comfortable.

And I think that’s the proof of a pattern to me – if I go back to it.

My favorite panty patterns of all time are:

Kwik Sew 2286 

You can only find this used now. It’s been discontinued. Although the description on Etsy calls this a bikini, it fits like a hipster on me. And this has been my TNT pattern.

My Self-Drafted PatternI used Beverly Johnson’s Craftsy class to draft these, and they’re similar to my Kwik Sew favorite.

House Morrighan’s Clover BoyBrief 

These have been the patterns I’ve gone back to again and again.

However, I do love to test a new pattern because I never know when I’ll find a new favorite – like Sigrid.

One of my recent tests was from House Morrighan. When House Morrighan sends me a new pattern to test, I get excited. Something I look for in patterns is how well the pieces fit together. That should be a given, but sadly it’s not. With so many patterns being PDF now, it seems not all seams line up. House Morrighan’s do! And I like that!

Something else I love about House Morrighan’s patterns is she understands we have curves. And she builds curves into her patterns. 

So when HM asks me to test a pattern, I get excited. I’ll have more to show you soon, but now I’ll show you the gorgeous fabric I used. Oh, I love this too! I might have to get some more of this material. It’s a cotton Lycra from Smoogie Fabics. It is SO pretty!

I haven’t been only testing House Morrighan patterns though. I have a lovely make to show you this coming week. That’s all I’m going to say for now. But you won’t have to wait very long. 

Happy creating!

The Sigrid Panty

I saw a call go out to test the new Sigrid panty by Bodils Wear, and I thought I’d love to test a new pattern. Panties are usually a quick sew, and I love new patterns. It seemed like a perfect idea. The only problem I had was I got sick with a bad cold at the beginning of March, and then my son came home at the end of March with a bad cold. I guess they weren’t the same colds, because I got sick all over. 

(With a pandemic going on, I was constantly checking to see if I had a fever, or any of the other symptoms that were connected to it. Thankfully, I did not, and I am finally on the mend.)

The Sigrid panty was designed for Bodil’s daughter, who couldn’t find that perfect panty pattern. So she went to her mom and her mom drafted a pair for her. She loved them so much, the Sigrid pattern was born.

The Sigrid panty is a quick sew, with two styles. There’s one thing about this pattern that is very different from other panty patterns I’ve sewn. Although it uses stretch fabrics, it’s not meant to stretch when worn. Usually, when working with stretch, you make a pattern smaller than your actual measurements. But this isn’t the case with Sigrid. 

So my first impression was, these are going to be way too big! But they’re not. And they’re incredibly comfortable on too. Really. Incredibly. Comfortable.

I won’t make you wait any longer to see my newest make.These are my 2nd Sigrid panties. My first were the test pair, which I didn’t finish. The very big difference between my waist and hips made that pair unwearable. Whenever I’m testing a pattern, I make it as is the first time to see how things go together. Often that means things will not fit that first time though, but it gives me a good idea of the pattern.

This second pair fit perfectly, and I think they’re adorable. For this pair, I altered the pattern to fit me. On the Sigrid, my waist fell into a size 6, and my hips into a size 12! Those just don’t go together easily. So I made an 8 waist, and pulled the lace trim a little more when sewing it on to give it a bit of a gather. Not a lot, but just pulling it in a bit helped.

  The back of this panty has nice coverage too.You can see a bit of the gathering at the waist on the back more than you can on the front.

Do you like the lace trim I used for the leg openings? I looked everywhere in my stash for black lace trim, and it seems I don’t have any. But I did have this great animal print. It was too wide as it was for the leg openings, so I cut it in half! I pulled out my pinking rotary cutter, and I love it. I’ve cut lace before, but always where there was a clear line in the pattern. I’ll have to see how well this wears to see if I do it again.If it does run a bit, the three-step zigzag will help it not fray too much. 

Lastly, there was one aspect of this pattern that I really appreciated. The seams all lined up so well. I loved that! I’ve used my fair share of PDF patterns, and more than a few of them didn’t line up perfectly. I can handle that. Cut a little off here, or stretch to make sides or seams meet. But that wasn’t needed here. They lined up perfectly – so much so, it stood out to me. Well done!

I hope you try Sigrid, and like her as much as I do.

Happy creating!

Pin-Up Girls Newest Addition

The Pin-Up Girls line of patterns has a new member. Meet the Cheryl Panty pattern.

At first glance, Cheryl may not seem so very different from the Pin-up Girls Panty Basics Pattern.

But they are different.

The new Cheryl is a combination of the two basic styles of panties; the brief and the boy shorts. It is the ideal panty for everyday wear. Cheryl has the look of the brief in the front however the back features a center back seam.

The Panty Pattern includes 4 views, with two height options (waist or hipster), and two leg options (thigh cut and high cut).

The feature I like best is part of all four style options – there are no side seams on these panties. There is one back seam and that’s it. It gives a nice smooth line to the panties.

Here’s my Cheryl from the side.The panty having no side seams is a really nice feature.

Another feature I really like is the lace back that wraps around to the front.

Seeing as I was testing the pattern, I made a basic Hipster panty with no alterations to the pattern – to see how it would fit. The measuring for these panties is a little different from other patterns, so I wasn’t sure how they would fit. This pattern is based on your hip measurement alone.

The good news is they fit and I was pleasantly surprised.

Here’s the front of my Cheryl panty.And here is the back.The seam isn’t that noticeable to look at. Using the lace option, it would become a feature too. And I’ve made panties before with a back seam and I didn’t notice the seam when wearing them either.

This is a nice change from the basic pattern. If you’ve been looking for a seamless panty pattern, here it is – at least no side seams.

The panty is available now at Bra-Makers Supply.

Happy creating!

Dora V-Cut Back Lace Panties

I have a short and sweet post for you today.

Have you seen the new pattern by Full Cups Lingerie? It’s the Dora V-Cut Back Lace Panty. They are adorable! Here are a couple of photos from Full Cups Lingeries Instagram page.

Here’s the line drawing of the front.

Just adorable. But wait. Look at the back of these panties!The lace wraps around from the back to the front, but there’s also that adorable little ring holding the back together.

These are lovely.

I was asked to test this pattern, and found them easier to sew together than I first thought it would be. I used some cream cotton Lycra from Black Rabbit Fabrics, and a very pretty lace I had in my stash from Libelle Sewing.Oh, I like that lace wrapping around to the front. It’s a very pretty detail.

Here are the panties from the side. Here’s where you start to get a little more of that lace detail showing itself.I do like this lace and cotton combination together.

Now for the real feature of these panties, here’s the back view.   They are such a lovely panty, and I had fun making them.

The pattern is available on Etsy in Full Cups Lingerie‘s shop.

Happy creating!

A Few Leftovers

I still have a few projects left over from 2018 I want to get done. I decided these would be the first sewing projects I finished in 2019. As well, I have a free House Morrighan pattern hack for you this week. See the bottom of this post.

Clover Briefs

There was a pair of House Morrighan Clover Briefs that were mostly sewn sitting on my cutting table. They were waiting for the bands to be put on the legs. That was it. But Christmas came, and visiting, and New Year’s, and we went to the mountains. There were a lot of reasons I wasn’t sewing. Those Clover Briefs waited for me though.These are adorable too. I made them in the reverse of the color block I made my first ones.Although the bands for the waist and legs are easy, and do look nice, I still  prefer lace trim for finishing my panties.

Here they are from the side. And from the back. Well, I can say, I definitely don’t like how the bands are flipping up in the photos. Good thing they don’t do that when they’re on me. I’ve got more to fill them out than my display.

Another Clover Boybrief for Em

   Em loved this pattern too. So much so, she requested another pair. Instead of the Clover briefs, which I prefer, she asked for the boy-leg opening.

She also requested a color combo, and for them to be finished with bands. Em prefers bands to lace trim.

Here are Em’s Clovers in pink and ivory.

Oh, these are darling! When I was sewing them together, I wasn’t sure how I felt about the two colors, but seeing them on the display, they look great!

Here’s the side view.  And the back view.  Oh, they are sweet. And it’s nice to see panties that fit my display perfectly.

Just so you can see all the ways I’ve made the Clover boy briefs, here’s a collage of what I’ve done with the pattern.

Free Pattern Hack

House Morrighan has released a free pattern hack only for members of their House Morrighan Makers Facebook group. This pattern is for a nursing hack for the Poppy, Dahlia, or Abbie patterns. You will need one of those patterns first to use this hack. Just go to Facebook and join the group for the free pattern. It’s in the files.

Happy creating!