Shelley bra

The Shelley – without Seam Allowance

~ Michelle ~ 12 Comments

I still have a hard time believing I did this. I actually worked on the pattern, making sure the underarm area was shortened, and the allowance was made in the pattern for the Omega shape – but I forgot to add a seam allowance to the pattern! And it all went together so nicely that I didn’t notice until I tried it on!

All that upset aside, it turned out very well and looks so pretty.

Shelley Bra Full Band Beige Omega Design Front View

Here is the Shelley from the front. I love the lace I used here. All the materials are from Bra-Makers Supply. I decided to do something a little different with the lace and used a little flower I cut out to cover the front seam on the band where it joins to the bridge. I applied it before sewing in the cups or sewing the elastic to the lower edge. I was quite pleased with that little detail.

Shelley Bra Full Band Beige Omega Design Side View

Here is the side view. Do you notice, there are no little gathers at the bottom of the cup? I made some alterations to the pattern and I am so happy with them. I actually took it in at the corners on the bottom so it would fit into the cup perfectly and it did! So, that means no more darts or ‘easing’ the cup into a smaller opening.

Something I’d been wondering – and I’d need someone who has much more technical experience with pattern drafting to let me know if I’m correct or not – if I’m using a D for my wire size, then is the D cup pattern the correct size for the base of my pattern. I’m dealing with two different sizes, so I was just wondering.

My wondering led me to check. and I pulled out the D pattern and compared the pattern I’d made and it fit. So, now I’m thinking I could [possibly] make my patterns by starting with a D and then graduating it up to the F cup I need. Hmm, some more playing with patterns is ahead.

Shelley Bra Full Band Beige Omega Design Back View

And this is the back. I’m very happy with it as well. I based this on a Prima Donna bra I had and took apart to clone. I haven’t done that yet, but did decide to copy the back. I will need to make my fabric straps longer if I do this again. There was no ‘extra’ in that strap.

As well, the hooks are a little wonky (is that a word?). I’ve been having a bit of trouble with my zigzag handling the fabrics for lingerie. I’ve spoken someone in the education department of Elna (my sewing machine brand). They suggested using a walking foot to help with that. I haven’t tried that yet though. I had a few problems with the stitches bunching up on this bra in a few places. I wonder if anyone else is having the same problems?

Even though I left out the seam allowance when I made this, and the cups aren’t quite deep enough as a result, I’m still very happy with this bra. I now have my pattern with adjusted seam allowances, and am ready to sew it again.

Before I do, I’m planning on joining Amy on her Bra-Making Sew Along.

Happy creating!

An Image is Worth a Thousand Words

~ Michelle

If you’re reading along, don’t worry. This isn’t going to be a long post. I’m simply going to post a few pictures of the bras I’ve made with the alterations – smaller at underarm and now, smaller wire.

Beige Full Band F Cup D wire front view

I’m using the Classic Pin-Up Girls pattern here. You can see a bit of the ‘easing’ at the bottom of the cup, but nothing that can be seen under clothing.

Beige Full Band F Cup D wire side view

This shows the ‘ease’ much better. As well, a little elastic detail I added to the side band.

As I said in a previous post, I don’t LOVE this. It works, but I don’t like the look of those little gatherings around the cup.  The alteration I prefer is the small darts at seam lines. However, this means I need more seam lines to make those little darts.

I changed my basic Pin-Up Girls pattern to one shown on the Bra-Makers Supply’s web site: the Shelley bra. They have a DVD you can buy that shows how to make the alterations for this pattern. The DVD is called Designer Bras by YOU. Here’s the link for it: DVD

So, here was my first attempt at the Shelley bra:

Shelly Full Band Front view

I LOVE the lace!

Shelly Full Band side view

Again, just to mention it, my dress form and I are not the same size, so any wrinkles on her are not on me. But something I really like are the lack of little gathers all around the cup. I really prefer this look. I think this will be the pattern I use most often now.

And that last little alteration. Well, it’s next. I should have my perfect bra then.

And one last comment: All of the jewelry shown on the dress form is not designed by Noble Jewelry Designs. It is simply being used to dress up the dress form.

Happy creating!