Yes, as my title says, I’m still not sewing. I’m slowly getting better. I can do a little more with my hand, but I’m still not quite fine. Boy, this little break is taking much longer than I thought.

But I had a question from Becky about my poplin bra that I made last year. I said the seams were all enclosed. That’s not exactly true. A better way to phrase that would be to say all the seams are secured with additional sewing.

Let me go over how each seam is secured, and also give an option for securing seams between layers of fabric – actual enclosing.

For the neckline, I usually use lace for my upper cup. However behind my lace I use narrow elastic to help the lace curve to my shape.     You can see the elastic here in this photo. It’s a narrow elastic just below the lowest parts of the scallops.

The cup seams are all secure as well, which you can also see in this photo. Most patterns will call for a straight stitch to secure the seams of the cup – top stitching. However, I like to add my own take on things and I use a three-step zigzag stitch. It reminds me of elegant slips I remember from growing up. They seemed so pretty and I remember that stitch on them.

Once the cups are sewn into the frame or cradle, that seam has the channeling added to it. Then after the elastic is added to the band, the channeling is folded down and sewn into place. This secures that cup in the cradle, and that edge isn’t going to go anywhere. Those edges aren’t going to fray at all.    You can see here, or actually you can’t see here any of the edges from the cup once it’s all sewn. In a way it is enclosed because it’s between the frame and the channeling. But I don’t think most of us are thinking of enclosed that way.

The above photo also shows you how at the underarm the cup and elastic have been turned over to the inside of the bra and secured here. None of that lace & sheer cup lining are going to move anywhere, or fray. This photo shows the underarm from the outside of the bar. You can see there is no raw edge there. 

Now for actual enclosed cups, you have to sew things together a bit differently, and I did just that with this bra. I really, actually, enclosed my seams.

To do this you have to make what I was told was a sandwich: Place the two cup pieces right sides together, and then place both sheer cup lining pieces under one of those pieces so everything is lined up. It will look a little funny, but it will work out.

Sew your seams as usual, then trim the lace.

Now comes the enclosing part: Open the cup pieces up, but fold one piece of sheer cup lining over the seam so there is sheer cup lining behind both cup pieces and the seams are now ‘sandwiched’ between the sheer cup lining.

Your seam will end up completely enclosed. At this point both seam allowances of the sheer cup lining will be going to one side and you can secure them with top stitching, or a three-step zigzag. 🙂

Repeat these steps for each bra cup seam, and they will all end up enclosed.

There is one other way to cover those seams, which I haven’t tried. Actually covering them with seam tape. There’s a great resource on Cloth Habit’s blog. 

I hope this helps and cleared up what I had said earlier.

Happy creating!

I couldn’t stay away from sewing any longer. I medicated up my wrist and arm, and put on a tensor brace and went to my happy place – my sewing room.

Besides, I need a few new bras. Some of my older ones the elastic is starting to wear. So. I decided I was going to sew a new bra.

Out came my TNT Freja pattern, and a gorgeou Agneta kit from B,Wear (which I’m sorry to say is no longer showing on the shop’s page – but don’t let that stop you from asking about it. They might just get it in again.) I adore these colors. This gorgeous kit came in turquoise findings and fabrics, and also this lovely golden colored fabric and findings.   I’m a big turquoise fan, but I’m really loving this golden color too.  This kit is just so pretty.

I added some lace to the bridge area, and you can see here where it ends under the cups.  

Before sewing this up, I played a little bit with my pattern and made a couple of adjustments. I shortened the side bar by 1/8″, and added that to the bridge side of the upper cup.

And it worked perfectly. It gave me just a little more roundness in the cup. The golden sheer cup lining and power net really compliment this gorgeous lace.

Lastly, I have this very fun jersey that I think will compliment the lace enough to make into some panties. Stay tuned for more.  So, was it worth it to sew? I’ll be honest, it hurt. But a little more medication rubbed into my wrist and I was feeling fine again the next morning. I think I’m coming back to sewing!

Happy creating!

I thought I’d take a little break from sewing and blogging. I felt a bit burnt out. However, that little break I thought I’d take really didn’t turn out at all as I thought it would. I did something. I was volunteering at a food bank, and lifted something. But don’t ask me what exactly. I’ve been in pain for over a month. I’m getting an x-ray and ultrasound Monday.

A dear sewing friend did come over and we plotted out the pants pattern from Sure Fit Designs. So I did sew those. Unfortunately I also hurt afterwards.

Here’s hoping with all this rest my wrist is better soon, and I can get back to sewing!

Happy creating!

I have three courses to complete at the moment, and not enough time to sew as well, so I want you all to know I’m taking a small break while I work on these courses.

If I start dreaming of sewing, I’ll sew a quick bra and post it, but otherwise I’m on a break.

Happy creating!   

Last year I made the Porcelynne Nicole pants, and I really like that pattern. I would only need to add a bit of length to the rise and they would be perfect! 

However, as much as I love this pattern I wanted to try a new pattern.

So I decided to try the Cashmerette Calder Pants. I really like Cashmerette patterns because Cashmerette has a size calculator. I find that helpful – it gives me all the sizes I need. Actually adjusting my patterns for a 15″+ size difference is something I don’t like.

However, I really want to be able to make some nice pants for myself. So, I will keep working on this.

Here are my first Calder Pants. Sorry for a not great photo. My husband was away, and this was the best I could get on my own.

Here they are on my dress form Catherine. This is a much better photo. 

I think these look great from the front! Great! Perfect even. But there is a lot of bunching at the back. I need a full bottom adjustment there.

Do you see that lovely flat front? That makes these a beast to get on and off. My next attempt will include adding an invisible zipper to the side – of whatever style I make. I love the look of the flat front rather than full elastic, but I need a little more give over my hips.

Still, these are a pretty positive attempt at the Calder pants.

Happy creating!

Unfortunately, after wearing my Laundry Day Tee, the left bicep still doesn’t fit well enough. It bunches up under my arm and I’m just pulling the sleeve down all day. That is disappointing because I love this color, and the tee fits everywhere else. Yes, it fits my right bicep just fine. It’s only the left one that is causing problems.

The good news in the tees I’ve made is I’m not having that problem with the Concord tee. So  I have the Concord top correctly adjusted and I can venture on to the Turner dress.

That’s all for this week. Happy creating!

A little business to take care of first off. I just went through all my blog posts to check for any affiliate links and remove them. The source I was using is no longer offering that service.

Let me tell you, that was a lot of work, and there may still be the odd one I missed. I won’t be adding those back to my posts. And going forward there won’t be any affiliate links in my blog.

The second thing I noticed was how many links I had to remove because blogs, websites, and shops were gone now. A lot!

Lastly sorry for that old post being sent out mid week. I hit the wrong button!  

Now onto sewing. 

I had been wondering just what did I want to make for my April bra. I am getting a lot of wear out of my modified power net Sweet Sixteen that I made a few months ago. When I made this, I didn’t realize I was making Version Two of my modified Sweet Sixteen, but I like this much better than the previous second version I made. This one from a few years ago was in a lighter weight power net, and I didn’t love it. But my most recent one is a heavier power net, and I find that’s the one I’m reaching for when I’m getting dressed to exercise.

So while I was thinking about all this I decided that I would make another Sweet Sixteen in power net. This is a bit lighter power net again, so I went back to version one. And I love it! 

I paired this with a navy findings kit. I have two or three more planned. But I also have another bra all ready to cut out. For this bralette, because I knew from the first one I’d made, I doubled the power net on the back band. I found the first one I made to be a little light around me. Doubling the power net would make this one feel more secure.

I’ll be back in a month with another bra, but I’m still working on clothing fitting and working on getting my cover pro to give me nice stitches.

Happy creating!

I’m revisiting the Love Notions Laundry Day Tee (LDT). Having to deal with Lipedema, I have to accept things like my hips and thighs are disproportionately larger than the rest of me. I don’t like it, but we all have things we don’t like and have to accept.

I had another revelation relating to all of that while making this second take of the LDT. I had measured my left bicep when I redid all my measurements but didn’t even think I needed to measure both biceps. But the tightness in the one arm made me wonder, and I decided to measure my right as well. I was upset to realize my left bicep is 2 inches larger than my right. It’s another aspect of Lipedema and my fitting challenges.

My last LDT was too tight under the arm and across the bust. I had made a size M with a Full Bust. So for this one, I made a size L also with a Full Bust, but for the sleeves I made a 2X. Even at a 2X, the sleeve wasn’t quite large enough for my left bicep, so I added 1/2″ to each side of the sleeve.

I don’t want to ‘fit’ to the extent that I’m making two different sleeves. Or altering the front of the bodice two different ways. I’m happy with one sleeve fitting well, and one fitting loosely.

Now that you have the background, here’s my LDT. And look at that color! I can’t wait to wear my new Pistachio Freja with this.   I’m really happy with the fit of this, and how the arms don’t look like anything is different. You can’t tell there’s a two size difference there because the arm syce is a 2X as well. The sleeve fits perfectly onto the bodice.Doesn’t that look just like a tee should look?    

I watched a great masterclass by Cashmerette – Grafting Sleeves. I used this class and ‘graphed’ the larger sleeve onto the smaller bodice pattern. And it worked. Perfectly. Yes, I’m really happy to have revisited this and found yet another fitting solution.

Happy creating!

I made a few changes to the Love Notions Timbre Peasant Top so I would be happier with the fit for me.

And I am happier with it. As soon as I finished the hem and tried it on, I wore it for the rest of the day! You know a garment is a hit when… Oh I love this fabric! It’s another cotton eyelet, but this time with some gorgeous warm colors.

For this one, I went back to the size M, and used an XL for the hips. I didn’t make any other adjustments to this and I am happy with how it fits. I had just enough of this fabric to cut out a Flirt Skirt. Once I had that cut out, I cut out the bias binding for the neckline on this top. The size M neckline does fit me better, and this was much more comfortable to wear. I was also rather pleased with myself making the bias binding all by hand. Another feature of this blouse is the elastic at the wrist. It’s another pretty feature. Lastly here is the back view. I’m very happy with this and how it’s fitting me. If I want to be really picky, I would add a touch more length to this, but it’s not short on me. I just like a longer top. However, this is hitting right at my hip level, so it actually fits as it should. 

Next, I plan to revisit the Laundry Day Tee again. There are a couple of fitting changes I want to make to that one too.

Happy creating!

I’m working on my plans to go through the Tomkat Stitchery Pattern Fitting 101 course again. It starts with getting your measurements anew, and then picking a woven top.

I had my new measurements. I knew which pattern company I wanted to use. So it was time to look through which patterns I have from Love Notions. The Timbre Peasant Top appealed to me. With the gathered neckline, I thought it might look better with the large hip adjustments I need. I hope so anyway.

I had some gorgeous eyelet in my stash from Fabricville. I washed it and got it ready to cut out.

Because the Love Notions Laundry Day Tee was a bit small through the bust and underarm in a M, I went with the size L for the Timbre with an 2X for my hips. I was thinking because this is a woven top, it won’t have any stretch, and I would need the larger sizes.

Unfortunately, my first Timbre top turned out to be too big – all over. I felt like it was just floating around me.

I do think I’ll be able to take in the sides so it’s wearable, and that will be wonderful. I do like this fabric, and don’t want it to be something I just give away. 

The things I’ll change on this for my next Timbre will be to use a size M with a full bust, and grade to the XL for my hips. That should work out much better.

Happy creating!