Drafting Adjustments

I’ve been working on my Bare Essentials Draft take two and it’s coming along.

The first one fit pretty well, but the cups needed to be deeper than the average which is recommended for a first try. I also need to work on my bridge some more. For my first draft, I knew to widen the lower part of my bridge. However, when I’d made the bra, I posted a comment in the Bare Essentials support group that no mater what bra I’d ever made, it slides down a bit after I wear it. I’ve worked on my wires, and changed those. I’ve adjusted patterns, and drafted my own. Yet still, I was dealing with this.

Someone in the group responded that although they could see I’d widened my bridge already, she suggested to use sheer cup lining for the cups to see if I needed to make more of a change there. She said she did that and could see she still needed to widen the lower bridge.

So, that’s my next step.Using the sheer cup lining really helped. I needed to add another 1/4″ to the bottom of the bridge. For the first time, my wires stayed just where they were supposed to stay.

However, there’s some real East-West action happening here. I’m going to need to do an apex adjustment.I also made a mistake when finishing the upper cup. I’ve corrected this on the paper pattern.

Next I plan to do this all over again to make sure I’m really grasping this drafting method. Then I’ll start playing with the sloper to made different designs.   

I also wanted to mention my Instagram account is almost empty. All my photos are gone except just a few family ones. I have no idea why all my photos are gone either. Whatever the reason, it’s pretty empty. 

I can’t get into it either, so I have set up another account and linked to my blog. I will add content again. Just not right now. For now, I’m going back to drafting.

Happy creating!

A New Discovery

I’m following along with the Drafting course on the Porcelynne website, and I’m learning new tricks and tips.

The first one I want to share with you is something you’ve probably heard about: A flexible ruler.I’ll be honest. I bought one of these after reading it would help to do a root trace. It didn’t help me with that at all. Not one little bit. At least it didn’t help me at all.

However, watching the course I saw a brilliant use for it! Use it to measure along the curve of the wire line. Really brilliant!

I just curve the ruler along the curve of my circle and mark where I need to mark. It’s so much easier than bending a flexible ruler, trying to hold it with one hand, and then mark with the other.

I will no longer view this as a useless item I picked up. This is really great!

Happy creating!

My First Bare Essentials Draft

I completed my first Bare Essentials draft. In fact, I completed two of them – one for a regular wire, and one for a ‘demi’ wire.

The Orange wire isn’t actually a demi wire, but it’s a little bit lower in the front. When I combine the wire shape, the wire size I need, and being an Omega shape, it made sense to try the demi draft. 

 I have to say, the Bare Essentials drafting process is still something I’m learning. I won’t say I have it down pat just yet, but I’m making progress.This past week I drew up my draft. It actually looks like bra cup pattern pieces, so I thought I’d be close. 

I sewed together a very quick tester bra. I told my husband it was the ugliest bra I’ve ever sewn. He said he couldn’t believe I would make anything ugly. This isn’t designed to be pretty. It’s designed to determine if you have the correct volume before you move on in the process.I wasn’t exaggerating when I said it wasn’t pretty! It’s not.From the straps being pinned on, thread ends not cut, everything just sewn enough to hold it together to try on once, it has served its purpose. Even the strap elastic is only tacked down quickly to work for that single fitting.   

As terrible as it looks, it worked. I have the correct volume to move onto the next stage, which will be to take this draft pattern, and begin to alter it to the shape I want.

However, I think I’ll redo the draft another time or two to make sure I have this well figured out before I move on.

Happy creating!