That’s how I felt – like I was starting all over again. And I wasn’t thrilled about it either.

I’ve been very close on every bra I’ve made, but I wanted better. I wanted perfect. You’ve all heard that before!

So, a few weeks ago I checked on the old Bra-Makers Supply web site to see if there was a teacher who lived close to me.

I found a teacher, and did a Google search to see if she had a class  happening near by. I found a class too! And it is happening just over an hour from where I live, and in only a month’s time. I felt like I had hit the jackpot!

I called the school where she teaches and asked them to have her contact me. She called me the next day, and after our talking for a bit, she said I didn’t need the beginner class and then offered to come to my home and give me a private lesson! I was ecstatic!

It only took a few weeks from that initial phone call until I had an official Bra-Makers’ teacher! And in my home!

So we spent all of Friday and Saturday together. She told me one thing I already knew – I was close, very close.

So, we worked together over two days and I think the best thing out of the whole weekend was finding an even better wire size for me.

Let me show you what I mean:

Here is the wire I’ve been using compared with the wire that usually fits my cup size. The smaller wire better fits me, but the larger wire fits the cup better. That has led to numerous alterations to my basic pattern.

However, that smaller wire is also lower in the underarm, and really wasn’t giving me the support I needed there.

I had put in a call to Bra-Makers and asked Beverly about it and she suggested a Vertical wire, and said the corresponding wire to the 38 was the 40 Vertical. However, the 40 Vertical wire felt too tight at the outer base of it. So I went back to a 38.

With the teacher here this weekend, we talked about it and then decided to try a 42 Vertical wire (42V) to see if it was a better fit. I really didn’t think it would be. I thought it would be too big, but it was perfect!

I’m not sure if you can see that or not, but I have the 38 wire on top of the 42V. I drew a bright pink line at the top of the 38 wire so you can see the 42V comes up higher at both the center front & underarm. This now gives me the better coverage I needed, without coming in too much at the base & side.

But I was in a panic for days trying to figure out what changes I was going to have to make to my size cup to fit this new wire. I did find a bit in the Bra-Makers Manuals on how to adjust for this, but wondered if I was going to make the cup too big seeing how I’m always adjusting smaller.

Then I had a thought today to compare it to the wire charts and see what size it was closest too. And it’s closest to a 44, which is the wire size that corresponds with the cups size I’m using! What a relief!

That got me cutting and sewing again!

Want to see one more wire picture?

Here’s the 42V on top of the 44 wire. The 42V comes up a little higher, but is narrower too. When measured, they’re the same length. Wire problem solved.

So, I don’t have a completed bra yet. I have a tester I did and it’s very fun material:

This is a Lycra, with a non-stretch lining in the cups for support. I’ve decided I prefer the non-stretch lining to interfacing – it’s a much lighter feeling cup with more flexibility, and I think, even more strength than the interfacing gives.

I’m making the Pin-Up Girls Classic Full Band pattern, and from there I’ll make a new Shelley pattern.

Here are the adjustments I’ll need to make. I really didn’t want to start over, but felt that would give me the best fit using this new wire. Thankfully, I’m not starting over in knowledge! I’ve learned so much in the past year. Hopefully I’ll have my new bra done tomorrow. I’m planning on taking the day to sew.

Happy creating!