Well, I think the title says it all. However, I feel a little trapped in the try-try-again scenario, I know going back to RTW bras isn’t the answer either, especially knowing my cup & wire size do not match.

So what progress have I made in the last week or so? Well, remember my pretty bra  – the black Lycra with swirls and the flipping underwire? And I mean literally flipping; I’m not trying to cover up a swear word. I had a thought what I could do to make it wearable. I pulled out my underwire stash and compared the bra’s cradle to the different sizes – I knew 38 was too small, and 44 too large. I found one that fits quite well. It’s not perfect, but it is wearable – and still a closer fit than RTW.

So pretty and still wearable. Not perfect though!

And on the topic of underwires… I thought I found my perfect fit, but when I wore the couple of bras I’ve made with that size of wire, they’re doing what started all my alterations in the first place – causing a deep ridge under the bust. So, they’re either too big or too small. Since they’re not digging into me at all, I’m thinking too big. This really is another area of challenge for me.

This week I continued with my idea to use my Sewy Rebecca pattern and make a Classic Full Band bra pattern. I made the adjustments after making a tester, and here’s the result.

Isn’t that pretty? I love the fabric – so glad Lycra and I became friends again. Overall, it’s a pretty good fit. I’m still not getting the bridge all the way back to the chest wall. I’m starting to wonder if that’s going to be an elusive myth that I search for all my sewing days!

As a side note here, I did put a call in to Bra-Makers Supply and had a talk with Beverly about how I was not getting the bridge all the way back. She suggested I try a cup size up and band size down. I tried it and the band did fit better, but the cup was too big. Maybe I’m in between cup sizes. And still no bridge contact!

Anyway, I’m going to have to encourage myself a bit with the progress I have made. I do have a larger cup fitting into a smaller wire, and it is nice and neat looking. I do have a better band for me, and the straps aren’t falling off my shoulders – which they did in RTW too. So I am making some headway here.

I really like the black elastics with this material. But I can see one area here that I didn’t notice when I wore it – that gap under the arm at the side. Again, the problem is a difference in my shape and the mannequin’s. There is no gap when I wear the bra.

And this is a great little way to attach the straps. I learned this when I had the private lesson a few weeks back. When attaching the upper elastic to the band, rather than run it down the strap curve, leave that until after the upper elastics are sewn on. Then use the bottom band elastic.

Pin the elastic on outside of the band covering the strap curve, attach a slider or ring here, fold it over and pin it so it doesn’t move on you, and sew it on. I really like this look – it’s a very neat look.

And if that wasn’t clear, let me know, and I’ll post pictures of next time.

Finally, the burning question of the week? Did this new pattern with a straighter upper cup give me a little more lift? I think it did. I also looked through my stash of patterns to see if I had a straighter upper cup in any of the other ones I have, and didn’t find one that was straighter.

Happy creating!