Month: April 2015

When I Can’t Sew, I Plan

~ Michelle ~ 4 Comments

I’m still coughing, but not nearly as much. So I’m starting to think about sewing again. I think panties sound like a perfect just-starting-to-feel-better project. An order with some lovely cotton spandex just arrived from Bra-Makers Supply. Perfect.

While I’m not sure if I’m feeling up to sewing anything more complicated than a pair of panties, I’m planning some future projects.

A few months back I bought some lovely material. It was on sale, not at all what I was looking for when I was in the fabric store, but there was no way I was going to pass it up. It was with all the other denims, but I’m not sure that it is denim. It’s Cotton with a bit of stretch, and has a bit of a waffle texture to it.

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I love it. It’s a nice medium weight and will make a lovely spring jacket. So, now to decide on a pattern.

There are a couple so sewing boards I follow, and on one a really nice jacket from Grainline Studio came up.

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This image is taken from Grainline’s web site. I love the lines of this, but something about those lines looked familiar to me.

I’d recently bought The Magic Pattern Book by Amy Barickman and it reminded me of one of the pattern in there. Here’s a photo from the book of The Dorothy Jacket.

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I know the collars aren’t identical, but there’s a similarity there. Seeing as I already have a similar pattern, I decided not to buy the Morris Blazer pattern.

I also decided not to use The Dorothy Jacket. I have a confession. I’ve come to realize I don’t love PDF patterns. Well, I do love that I can have instant access to a pattern. That part is great! I don’t love all the work that goes into making a garment before I even start to make the garment. I don’t love taping it all together – and it’s bulky to store afterwards. I don’t love that the pattern lines don’t always match up when you match the symbols there to match. Sigh.

So, again, with all that taping ahead of me, The Dorothy, and most of the other patterns in The Magic Pattern Book will just be for inspiration at this point.

What was I going to use to make a jacket? Back to my pattern stash. I had a pattern from McCall’s that I’d bought when ClubBMV had a sale. McCall’s 6516.

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I’m leaning towards view D right now. Again, it has some similar lines to the other two patterns. A draped front with relaxed lines. Let’s hope this week sees me cough free and feeling myself again.

Happy creating!

Two Misses In A Row

~ Michelle

A few weeks ago, when my husband and I went away for our anniversary, he was sick. The week before that it was my DS1’s turn. Well, when we got back from our trip, it was my turn. Sadly, my sewing has really been affected.

The first mistake I made was last week. I was all ready to make some matching panties for my new bra. I decided to make a new pattern from some RTW panties, and everything was looking good. I traced out the pattern, and was all ready to cut out. I even thought everything looked pretty good when I finished cutting them out.

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It wasn’t until I picked up the back of the panties that I realized something really didn’t look right.

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There was no fixing that, and there isn’t enough material left for a second back to be cut. Sigh. Note to self – don’t try to sew when you don’t feel well.

I did dig out my beige cotton spandex from my stash. Nope, there wasn’t enough material there for a pair of panties either. I saved it thinking it would be great to use for making the gussets for panties. I do the same with ends or bits of Duoplex  – save them to make bridges.

So, I put all my sewing aside and rested for most of the week.

I was starting to feel better and wanted to get sewing again. So out came the cowl neck top I’d started to work on.

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I’d used my knit sloper and traced out a pattern that was ‘curvier’ than the original pattern to better fit me.

It was coming together quickly and looking wonderful. Then I sewed up the side seams and thought, ‘Hmm, that looks small.’

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Yup, it’s too small. I didn’t add in ease, or at least not enough. I am thinking too small is a nice change from too big… I don’t think I’m quite up to sewing just yet. I think I’ll give it another few days.

The one highlight of my sewing right now is my companion:

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Here’s our adopted pup, Tiberius. He often looks for a spot of sun on the carpet, but will settle for a spot under my cutting table just to be close.

Happy creating!

The Flexible Wire Experiment

~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

I did a little bra-wearing experiment. I still wasn’t 100% happy with my fit. Do you get the idea I’m looking for perfection? I am!

At the end of the day, I could see when I undressed, the wires I was using weren’t fitting me perfectly. I also knew from experience that a size smaller felt like it pinched a bit. So, if the size I’m wearing is too big, and one size smaller is too small, where did that leave me?

I’d read something recently about the flexible wires available at Bravo Bella, Needle Nook Fabrics, and Sew Sassy. I decided to give them a try and see if they’d solve my wire problem. I ordered three sizes from Needle Nook Fabrics – 36, 38, and 40. Anne St. Clair was so very helpful. I must say, women like Anne and Beverly Johnson are a tremendous help to us non-professional bra-makers. Thank you!

I could tell with just a glance that the 40 wires were the same size I’d been using, so I ruled them out, initially. The 36s felt perfect but were too short for me to use. That left the 38s. I popped out the Vertical wires I’d been using from my most recent Black Butterfly bra and wore the flexible wires for a day. (Here’s a confession: I didn’t even sew the seams up!)

Here are the two 38 wires  – one regular and one flexible:

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And this second photo shows just how much these flexible wires can flex:

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That’s tremendous. There’s no way a regular wire is going to move like that! As well, the flexible wires don’t splay outward anymore than the regular wires I’d been using did – I checked. They flex inward.

Just before I popped those new wires in, I pressed them together to make the curve a little narrower. On the Bravo Bella web site, Monica Bravo has a couple of videos about the wires, and on one she explains how they can be shaped. That sounded perfect to me.

At the end of the experimental day, I could see these wires were a much better fit for me. Yay! I now have a nice little stash of flexible wires on their way to me.

Now to adjust my pattern to help with the wire fit. I’ve learned though, change one part of the bra pattern, and it means changing something else. Now I decided to look at the cradle those wires are fitting into. What I’ve been using is drawn from a 38 wire cradle that I lengthened to fit the 40 Vertical wire. I wanted to change that. Clearly, the channel that fit a 38 wire was too big.

In this photo, you can see the bridge and then the 36 and 38 cradle lines. There’s not a lot of difference between the cradle sizes, but I think one size will be just enough to make things a little more comfortable and fit better. The main problem with a cradle that’s too big is the weight of the breasts will push the bra frame down and you won’t get the support you need. The cradle really needs to fit.

I traced the 30E on this pattern (the smallest cradle size on it). I’d been using the 32E cradle for my last few bras. I’d even tried the 34E cradle, which would normally take  a 40 wire, so I would have fewer cup alterations, but I found it really didn’t help with my fitting issues – just my alteration ones.

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So, out came my pencil, eraser, and medical exam table paper. I traced of the 30E cradle and then laid my custom pattern pieces over that to add those aspects to the pattern – the narrower and lower bridge, adjusting for a flat spot, thinning out the elastic under the bust, and raising up the side 1/4″.

At this point all the alterations were good to go. In fact, you’ve seen them! I used them all on my last bra – the Sewyfied Shelley. That bra is my best-fitting bra! There are only a couple of cosmetic changes I want to make at this point. What a great feeling that is!

Happy creating!

A Pin-Up Girls Shelley with a Sewy Rebecca Twist

~ Michelle ~ 6 Comments

I’m still trying to decide which bra pattern I like better. It’s a very close match between Beverly Johnson’s Pin-Up Girls (PUG) Shelley pattern and Sewy’s Rebecca pattern. They’re quite similar – both feature a lace upper cup and a power bar. Shelley has a split lower cup as well where the Rebecca doesn’t.

Here’s the Sewy Rebecca photo from their web site. I’ve been to their site a number of times and am getting used to where things are even though I don’t speak any German. However, if you open their site in Google Translate, everything is much easier. You just can’t place an order on their site using Google Translate.

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Oh, that’s a lovely bra!

And here’s Beverly’s Shelley pattern from the Bra-Makers Supply web site.

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Absolutely gorgeous!

One difference I’ve noticed is when the patterns are both flat, the upper cup along the cross cup seam is straighter on the Sewy Rebecca than the PUG Shelley. The Rebecca is on the bottom, Shelley is on top. See how much more curved the Shelley is? But they are both the exact same length.

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According to Beverly in the Bra-Makers Manuals, a straighter bottom edge on the upper cup will give more lift. Who doesn’t want more lift? However, to be honest, when I’m wearing the Rebecca, I don’t notice any difference.

So, which bra wins out? I’m still undecided. I do know one aspect of the Rebecca that does win hands down – the enclosed seams on the inside of the bra! I love that! It does take a fair amount of work, but is so worth it.

Due to my immense fondness for those enclosed seams, I Sewy-fied my Shelley this week. I added lining and followed the instructions for sewing the Rebecca to completely enclose my seams. I even upped it a bit and added a lower cup lining, so the whole inside of the cup is now lined with no seams showing. The only fault with the inside is I forgot to change thread colors and there is beige thread from top-stitching very evident on my black lining. I noticed it too late to change it.

Here’s a photo of the bra’s inside.

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Oh, those enclosed seams. That is so pretty and, I think, more professional. On one Prima Donna bra that I owned, wore, and then took apart, all the seams were enclosed. I’m still trying to figure out how they did the strap and made it enclosed too. But they did.

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Here’s my Shelley from the outside. I think I’ve figure out the best way to stuff the bras for Catherine. I use the cut and sew foam cups I made that are the same size and shape as the bra cups, AND the pre-shaped foam cups, which are sturdier. Finally, a mostly wrinkle free photo.

This is a fabric kit from Merckwaerdigh‘s Etsy shop. I really do love her laces. I’ve backed everything up here with sheer cup lining, Duoplex, Power Net, and elastics from Bra-Makers Supply.

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Here’s my Shelley from the side. Again, I added another touch from the Sewy Rebecca and used lace on the power bar. The lace here looks so different from the same lace with the black sheer lining behind it on the upper cup.

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A very basic back.

For alterations on this bra, I made a smaller cradle, narrowed and lowered the bridge, adjusted for a flat spot on the bridge and cups, made the underarm area smaller, I shortened the wire line seam (with gathers again), added linings to the cup, and used a flexible wire.

Happy creating!