Month: August 2018

Panache Inspired

~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

Inspiration

Recently I read an article by Who What Wear saying Boyshorts are going out of style. That won’t be terrible for me. Boyshorts aren’t the most flattering on me. I think they’re adorable, but they just don’t suit a curvy shape as well as they suit a less curvy shape. That’s probably why they’re called boyshorts.

The article showed a few up-coming styles and there was one I really liked.

The Panache Lingerie Quinn High Waist Brief: Oh! These are lovely.

I started looking for patterns that had similarities. Here’s what I found.

First, Daydream Patterns Nora Knickers.

This pattern has lace attached at the leg. It’s great because it attaches the lace the same way for the back. The front is different, but could probably easily be adapted to be the same as the Panache panties.

Another pattern I thought of is the Ohhh Lulu’s Betty High Waist Panties.  It’s quite a similar shape, and I’ve always adored the look of these panties..

Here are the three panties together.The Panache is in-between these two patterns, but is a bit closer in shape to the Betty. If you haven’t taken Beverly Johnson’s panty class on Craftsy and aren’t comfortable drafting your own pattern, either of these patterns would get you close.

My Master Pattern

I have taken Beverly’s class, so decided I would make my own Panache-inspired panty. I pulled out the master pattern I made using the Craftsy class Sewing Panties: Construction & Fit. I usually make Hipsters with my pattern, even though on my dress form they look like briefs.Although these come up to the form’s waist, they’re hipsters on me.

Pattern Adjustments

The first thing I did was add back the 2-inches I’d removed from the pattern’s waist height when I made them into Hipsters. The pattern is again a brief. Loving hipsters as I do, I decided to go with a brief rather than a high-waisted panty. We’ll see how much I love briefs before I try high-waisted.

Next, I added a seam to the front/side. I’m keeping the side seam too, but going to move it back to the side. My ‘side’ seam is moved forward so it doesn’t show. The purple line shows where the side seam would normally sit.

You can see in the photo above how the seam is moved to the front of the panty and not sitting right at the side.

The Panache panty has a back seam as well, but I’m not adding that. The only time I add a back seam is if I’m short on material. Otherwise, I prefer no seam for the back.

Next, I decided how much lace I wanted, and then added the lace detail to the pattern.

Here’s my pattern ready to get cut out.  Lastly, I added seam allowances to those new seams, and traced off my new pattern pieces.

I’m all ready to make my own Panache Inspired briefs.

Happy creating!

Mountain Getaway

~ Michelle

We were heading to the mountains – for a whole week! We haven’t taken a whole week to get away for more years than I can remember. Usually, we’re just gone two or maybe three nights. This was going to be such a treat for us, but … what was I going to do without my sewing machine for a whole week?

Mountain Sewing

I decided I had too many projects to leave them all for a week. There were things I wanted to work on that, with a little planning ahead, I could do while away.

So I packed up my sewing machine in my tote and planned what I would sew.

Here’s my sewing machine, my iron, three cut-out-ahead sewing projects, thread, scissors, and more all packed up and in our mountain getaway.I was so excited to bring my sewing machine with me! I’ve never taken it on a trip before. Probably because, as I said, we usually only get away for a couple of days.

Some dear friends let us have their time share for the whole week! We’re in Banff, Alberta, in the Rocky Mountains.

I’ve claimed half of the table to do my sewing. You can see my computer set up on here. Believe it or not, that table looked a lot worse at the time I wrote this – with all my hubby’s work piled all over it. We got it cleared off enough for me to do some sewing.

Look at my view.Although I do plan to sew and get some work done, I know we’ll also spend some time outdoors.

Matchy-Matchy

One of the sewing projects I planned was to make some panties to go with my new Angie bra. I really like my new Angie and definitely want some panties to match.

Here’s my little set up, and you can see I’ve been sewing. My project is right there on the table with my machine and my computer. It all worked very well.

The first pair of panties I made is my basic pattern. As much as I love lace, I do really like these basic panties. The cotton Lycra is from Black Rabbit Fabrics. Although it’s cream, it matches the ivory duoplex really well. The lace trim is from a favorite vendor of mine on Etsy – Frog Feathers. I love their narrow stretch laces for finishing panties.

The second pair is the same pattern only finished with a lace panel in the front. This very pretty lace is from B,Wear. It’s light beige, but I’ve paired it with ivory a few times and love it. When I was sewing the lace panel onto the front of the panty, I realized I hadn’t brought any elastic for the inside of the waist. On a soft lace like this, it needs some support at the waist. Without elastic, I had to think of an alternative. A strip of cotton Lycra worked just fine. Here they are with my Angie. First, the basic pair with Angie.And here’s the lace panel with Angie. I only took the front photo for these as the sides and back are basically the same.  Yes, that cream is really close to ivory. I’m so happy with both of these sets.

Plans

In order to bring these projects along, and not have to bring everything in my sewing room, I had to preplan my sewing. What I was going to make, and then make sure I had everything I needed.

So I cut everything out, including my lace. I only needed to bring thread, the cut material, pins and scissors. And my sewing machine, of course. It’s worked out wonderfully, and I plan to bring my sewing with me again on future trips.

Smoky Mountains?

We were only in the Rockies for a couple of days before forest fires caused our view to look much more like the Smoky Mountains.

Here’s a view of one of the mountains the first day.I love this. It looks like a painting!

And here’s the view two days later.I was glad I brought an indoor activity when the air quality became so poor.

Happy creating from Banff in the Rocky Mountains!

Angie Again

~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

I finished my first Angie sewn with thread that won’t dissolve when I wash it. I tried it on and didn’t want to take it off! It’s so nice.

Angie

I think this is a really lovely pattern, and makes a very pretty bra. The design is different from almost all the other bras that are available for the home sewing market.The Angie pattern doesn’t have an upper cup like so many bra patterns. In fact, I can’t think of another pattern that doesn’t have an upper cup. There are four pattern pieces to the cups, but none of them are upper or lower. The cup is completely different due to it being all vertical seams.

As I was re-reading this before posting, I did remember another bra that was similar in it had vertical seaming – the Lavender and Lace bra Mrs. Weaver made.  The lines are different though, and that bra was never released as a pattern for sale. These Lavender and Lace bras are lovely, but back to Angie for this post.

I love the shape and design of this bra. In ivory, it reminds me of a sea shell. Delicate and pretty.

Here’s my Angie from the side.I was also happy with the adjustments I made to the cup to make this fit me and make it fit in the frame so neatly. No more puckering on the cups! I’m not going to get tired of that any time soon.

 The best part of this bra is the lift it gives. It really lifts! Okay, the best things are it lifts and it’s also very comfortable.

 Details

I’ve used non-stretch strap tape for the front straps on my Angie. All elastic straps don’t work so well for me. I didn’t have any ribbon on hand to stabilize the front of the strap elastic either, which is another way to give support to strap elastic.

A pretty bow hides all the stitching at the top of the cup where the strap is attached, and the elastics are meeting. If a bra I’ve made has a bow on it, you know I’m happy with it! It’s bow-worthy.

I also used a cute ruffled trim for the upper cup.

Alterations

The alterations I made to this pattern are: I adjusted the cup to be smaller at the wire line, I shortened the bridge and underarm to work with the wire I’m using, and I added a Gothic arch to the front of the band.

The Gothic arch was a last-minute decision. I was pinning on my bottom band elastic and decided I wanted it. So I quickly altered the bottom band to include it. I’m glad I did.

I’m so happy with this bra! And am really looking forward to making my next one already. Boy, another Ruby and Angie in the plans.

I saw a lovely strap alternative for this pattern, so want to try that when I make my next Angie. This photo is from B,Wear’s Instagram.What a lovely addition to the pattern. Yes, I definitely want to try this strap alternative for my next Angie.

Happy creating!

New Orange Lingerie Pattern

~ Michelle

Introducing the Lansdowne bra sewing pattern!

The Lansdowne is a cleavage enhancing, plunging underwire bra. The outer cup works like a super power bar, moving the breasts toward the center of the body.

To complete the cleavage enhancing effect, the inner cup is cut straight down from the strap point to the low bridge at the center front.

Available now for A to DD cups in size 30 to 40 bands!

The Poppy Bralette

~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

When I started sewing my own bras, the Pin-up Girls Shelley pattern wasn’t even available yet. So many patterns have been released since then.

There are some new bra and bralette patterns available right now. And I’ve heard there are more patterns coming too. I know of three more soon-to-be-released patterns. What an exciting time to be making our own bras!

The Poppy Bralette was released today. You can find it here.

The Poppy Bralette

  I heard of this new bralette pattern when the designer put out a call for testers, so I offered to test the pattern. Do you see the cup sizes? This pattern isn’t all smaller sizes. This one will actually fit me. The only other bralette pattern I know of that is in my size range is the Pin-up Girls Sweet Sixteen pattern. I was really excited to learn of another designer who’s designed for larger cup sizes.

Here’s the sizing for the Poppy Bralette.

If you need a smaller size, those are coming too. The designer simply decided to test and release the larger sizes first. When the smaller sizes are available, I’ll let you know.

Other than the larger cup sizes, another appealing feature of this pattern is it can be made in cotton Lycra. Ooh! I love cotton Lycra!

Materials

This bralette can be made in CL. It can also be made in Viscose Spandex, Stretch Lace, and Stretch Mesh. It’s fully lined. You can line it with cotton Lycra again, or something with a little more support like power net.

I’m going to use cotton Lycra for my main fabric and line it with power net. Here’s the fabric I’m using:Recognize this? I just used this gorgeous cotton Lycra to make my knotty pants. I think a pretty bralette to match will be very fun.

My Poppy Bralette

    Here’s my Poppy Bralette.I think it’s adorable! However, it’s a smidge small in the cups.

After talking with the designer, we both thought it might have been the power net lining. Power mesh might have been a better idea, or simply cotton Lycra.

I did sew this together with wash-away thread, so I’m going to soak it and then try  those changes.

Impressions

  Making this bralette with power net as the lining makes it very supportive. It’s definitely not flimsy!

I like the shape of this bralette too. The cup shape is flattering, the wide back and sides are very comfortable and supportive.

Here’s the side:  I need to gather the elastic under the arm more. I’m very shallow there, and have to make that adjustment on almost every bra I sew.

Here’s the back view:Look at this nice deep back.

One of the things that impressed me the most with this pattern is almost all the seams are enclosed. Talk about comfortable! Just look here at the side seam.This photo shows the side seam and the under-bust seam. Both are enclosed. It’s a very nice feature. The only seam not enclosed is the center front.

Here’s the center cup seam, which is enclosed too and you can see the center front. It’s not enclosed, but it’s sewn down flat.     Do you see that nice wide elastic at the bottom edge? That’s 3/4″/19 mm elastic. Another supportive feature of this bralette.

My Second Poppy

Seeing as I used power net on my first Poppy, I decided to use all cotton Lycra for the second one.This looks the same on the outside, but the inside is lovely soft cotton Lycra.  Soft, comfortable, and those lovely enclosed seams. It’s really nice.

On this above photo you can see the internal sling I added this time. I wasn’t sure cotton Lycra alone would be as supportive.

Although this is still a touch small in the cups, I’ve still worn this all day and it’s wonderful.

Here is my Poppy with my knotty pants.What a cute set!

I do have a third Poppy in the works, but that will be another post.

Happy creating!

Ruby for the Challenge

~ Michelle ~ 4 Comments

This is a long post. I’ll warn you right up front. But I had a lot to share on the new Pin-up Girls’ Ruby pattern.

I had no time for the June Bra-makers Challenge. I was testing two patterns – you’ve seen the Ingrid pattern. There’s another new pattern coming in just a few days. I’ll post about that in a couple of days.

As well, I had to make the Knotty Pants as soon as that pattern was released, and I’m loving them.

But, I am trying to fit the challenge in again this month. To do that, I’m combining two things for this post – I’m trying the new Ruby pattern, and I’m making Ruby for my Bra-makers Challenge submission.

The Challenge

  The July Challenge was Your Birthday Suit, and the challenge was to work with sheer fabrics.This pattern has quite a few options listed. Foam-lined or all fabric. Underwired or wire-free. The bras I’ve seen sewn up are lovely! Here’s one from the BMS website:This is so pretty!

Ruby for the Challenge

Here’s my Ruby/July Challenge. I think she’s she’s lovely!I’ve made this with sheer cup lining, and black elastics. I think it works very well together.

 Here’s the side view.Ruby has a lovely shape. It’s definitely a rounder shape to the cups.

The upper cup on this pattern is shorter. A shorter upper cup helps to give more lift.This pattern calls for 1/2-inch elastic for the bottom band, which is a bit of a change for me. I usually use 3/4-inch elastic. However, this is still supportive.

It also uses 3/8-inch elastic for the upper band. Another smaller elastic choice for me.

Here’s the back of the bra.Ruby doesn’t have fabric straps. For mine, because this is a tester to see how it will fit, I only used strap elastic. However, the pattern suggests sewing some ribbon over the elastic at the front for more support.How the straps attach on the Ruby is different too. The strap is attached to the ring at the front, giving it a lovely modern look.

Another feature Ruby has is the fold over elastic along the upper cup.It’s so sleek and modern-looking!

This photo shows just how sheer my Ruby really is.  She’s lovely.

Impressions of Ruby

My first impressions of Ruby are it’s a lovely pattern. It went together easily, with no problems at all. It does go together a little differently than Shelley, which I’m so used to making, but then it’s a different pattern. The two patterns have different neckline finishes, different straps, and a different cup shape.

I do think I’m going to enjoy Ruby and make another one soon. In fact, I already have a kit to make one.

Made for Omega?

I’d read somewhere that Ruby had sewing lines for Omega shapes. I quick email to Bra-makers Supply let me know this is not the case. There are seam lines marked on the pattern. However, those seam line could be used as a guide to adjust the pattern for Omega shapes.

This photo below shows a bit of the pattern with the seam lines pointed out. I’ve drawn in a curved red line where one could adjust the pattern if you’re an Omega shape.This adjustment I’m showing would shave off 1/4-inch from the wire line, but leave the fullness of the cup. You could shave off a 1/4-inch from other cup pieces too – as many as you needed.

PSA

Do you read all of the instructions before you start a project? I don’t always read them all, and I should!

I had read through the beginning of the pattern, and traced off the Fabric pattern pieces because I wasn’t using foam cups. Then I altered the front frame, and the cups to fit my shape.

After doing that, I was looking through the pattern for the instructions for sewing fabric only. I found them on page four – there are only four pages of instruction.

Imagine my surprise when I read this:Hello? What’s this? Remember? Remember what? I didn’t read this anywhere!

So I go back to the beginning, and I read all the beginning instructions again. Nothing.

I read it again. I’m still not seeing anything.

All I could think was I’ve spent all this time tracing the pattern, altering the pattern, and cutting it out only for it to be the wrong size?

Well, it is there. It’s in the first paragraph… which I didn’t read.I saw, ‘Thank you…’, and skipped right past that paragraph to get to work.

I’ve highlighted it now so I won’t be able to miss that again. I may mark on the Fabric pattern pieces too so there’s no way I can overlook this vital bit of information again.

As a result of my oversight, my Ruby is a little small for me. All the adjustments I made worked out perfectly though. And this being sheer cup lining, it does have a little more stretch than duoplex. It almost fits. However, I will need that next size up.

I’m off to alter the next cup size…

Happy creating!