Duoplex, Lycra, & Tricot. Oh My!

This post isn’t about something new I’ve made, but rather my thoughts on Lycra for making bras. I had a question from a reader why I changed my mind about Lycra. Carmen, here’s your answer. Thanks for the post idea.

A Material History

The first bra I ever made, I didn’t keep. To me, it looked terrible! You won’t even find it here on my blog. It was made from a tricot kit. And despite pinning it and taking my time, I had a terrible time sewing with tricot. And I was not new to knits. I just found tricot very hard to sew.

After that first experience, I mostly moved on to more local supplies, and being in Canada, that meant duoplex. Duoplex is wonderful and firm, and not at all challenging to sew. I do think that first experience made me shy away from Lycra as well. 

 However, I had a few lovely kits that had Lycra in them, so I did start to experiment a little with it. Like this lovely Sewy Rebecca. Oh, this is still an absolute favorite make of mine.

This kit was from Merckwaerdigh, and I still love her kits. However, Lycra on it’s own was not as supportive for me as duoplex.

Once I started sewing with duoplex, I kind of just stuck with it. I like the ease, and I liked the support. Although, that didn’t stop me from buying pretty kits with Lycra.

Like this.Or these. Initially,  I was adding little pops of color to my bras using mostly duoplex, but adding in some Lycra over duoplex for color.

As much as I loved this bra too, I still had those kits that were all Lycra and lace. I had to figure a way to use them too.

It was then I found sheer cup lining. Layering sheer cup lining and Lycra together gives me the support I need. Even just sheer cup lining alone it supportive enough.

This bra is all sheer cup lining.   I also wanted to use other fabrics too. Like this lovely red bra below.   This bra is lingerie satin with sheer cup lining.

Being able to use sheer cup lining made me feel so much confident to use Lycra and other bra-making fabrics rather than only using duoplex. These other fabrics are lovely too, but I need a supportive fabric along with them.

I’ve recently bought a kit with micro duoplex in it. That will be a first for me.

Happy creating!

Craftsy is Coming Back!

Craftsy is coming back! They’re hoping on or around September 1st.

Don’t expect all your classes to be there on the 1st though, and because they’re not able to do that, But to make up for that, they’re giving 45 days free access to ALL classes!

Just so you know, I’m not planning on becoming an affiliate again, but I still love Craftsy and know so many of you do too.  

Wire Trace Results

A New Drafting Method

Something I’ve wanted to do for the past year is learn Porcelynne‘s method of drafting bras. It looks quite different from the BMS method I’ve learned and I was intrigued. 

Watching a few of Jennifer’s classes in the Great Bra Sewing Bee helped give me the push I needed to try this.

First things first, as I mentioned my last post, I needed to do a root trace to determine my wire size. Well, I actually didn’t think I really needed to do a root trace because I have all the wire sizes from BMS – they came with the Drafting course I took.  Still, I wanted the experience of doing a root trace with copper wire. And I’m very glad I did.

My Results

This is my copper wire root trace on laid over a 38 Extra Long wire from BMS. And in case you’re wondering, the copper wire is much longer than my root trace.This is pretty close. I’d say it would be an exact fit – except for the upper part of the wire. This would explain why I felt the 38 wires were pinching me.

Here’s the same copper wire trace over a 40 Long wire from BMS.My trace is smaller at the bottom, but it matches the width at the top of the wire.

So, it seems I am in-between wire sizes.

After asking for some help in the Support for Bare Essentials group, it was suggested I watch this video.

After realizing I could bend my wires, I tried gently bending one of my 38 wires. I really didn’t want it to snap while doing this, so gentle was the way to go.And I have my perfect wire! And I have a whole bunch of 38 Extra Long wires, so this will be very handy to do so I can still use them.

I was also given another great tip in the Support group: Emerald Erin carries wires that are a little wider at the top.

I printed out her wire chart for her Orange wires, and perfection! And without me bending anything.The next part of the course is to make a fitting band.

Happy creating!

The Great Bra Sewing Bee Experience

This past weekend was The Great Bra Sewing Bee. And I have to say, it was great. I was so impressed with how well it was organized, the quality of instructors, and the great content. There was something for everyone – from beginner to experienced bra-makers.

I think my favorite classes were the Fit Clinics. There were 3 of them, and each had 3 or 4 women who had signed up to sew a bra, and then have the fit evaluated.. Suggestions were then given in the clinic to correct the fit. Not surprisingly, it seemed most of the women had issues with small band/large cups.

I don’t know if I learned anything in those, but much of what I had learned in Jeanette’s Fitting class was re-enforced and affirmed. Jeanette presented a class in the Bee too.

However, I did learn a couple of things.

I didn’t know some bra patterns splay the wire, and some don’t. Hmm. This got me thinking about wires again. I’m still not 100% happy with how my wires are fitting. So, out came my wires for me to look at. And I dragged my hubby along too.

First we did a root trace. This is something I’d been planning to do for a long time. You can read about how to do this in Porcelynne’s blog post here.

What did I find out? Well, if I splay the wire, a 38 works perfectly for me. If I don’t, the 38 wire pinches and I need a 40 wire. So I’ve realized I need to know if a pattern splays the wire or not before I will know which wire size to use.

After watching Jennifer’s (Porcelynne) bra sloper class, I decided to sign up for her drafting class. This is completely different from what I’ve learned so far, and I love learning new things.Yes, This is new territory for me, but I’ve heard such great reviews of this method. It’s time for me to try it. I’ll let you know all about it. You can see more for yourself here.

 Something else I really enjoyed about the Bee was hearing from bra-makers all over the world. There were presenters from New Zealand, Sweden, the USA, Canada, and I’m sure many more. Really, all over the world. I loved that. Normally going to a conference means more local speakers, but this being online there were no travel restrictions to hinder anyone.

That no travel restriction allowed me to watch Bodil of B’Wear sew up her Jessica’s Twin pattern. I’ve want to learn some things from Bodil too.

I enjoyed Monica’s Fit Clinic too. You many know Monica from Bravo Bella. My experiences in bra-making have been primarily from using Bra-Makers Supply patterns, and learning Beverly Johnson’s methods. It was very interesting to hear a different method, and I found it very refreshing.

That was something else I appreciated about the Bee – the presenters weren’t all of one mind. There were different approaches, and all were respected. I loved that!

Let me give you one small example of the presenters not all being of one mind on a matter. Monica uses Flexi-Wires, and Porcelynne has had her own wires made, which are not flexible. And both were referenced by other presenters. Neither is wrong. Both are supportive. I really loved that approach!

Lily of Lilypa Designs was there too. One of the things Lily said that I really appreciated was there is more than one way to make a bra – just as there’s more than one route to take to drive home. In the end, we make a bra. There is much wisdom in that statement.

To top the whole Bee off, I won a prize. I won a pattern from Studio Costura. What a treat for me!  I chose the Eva panty.

Aren’t they darling?

  If you missed the Bee, and are still interested, you can still sign up for extended access here. It gives you all the same resources and videos. The only thing you’ll miss is being able to ask questions live. However, many of the presenters did to feel free to contact them after the Bee if you had questions.

Happy creating!