Month: July 2021

Josey Bra Take Two

~ Michelle ~ 6 Comments

My first attempt with the Josey Bra came up short. Well, a bit short across the cup anyway. But overall, I knew I was close.

I was thinking about doing a hack, but part way through drafting it, I decided I’d be better off to just do a quick test of the next cup size up.

So that’s what I did.I grabbed some scraps again, and did a quick tester cup. It’s looking good.

Next I measured the bottom of the cup against the cradle. I had to find 2 1/2-inches to remove from the bottom of the cup so the cup will fit into my cradle.

Once that was done, I had a working pattern. It was time to break out a bra kit and try this pattern. 

   If you’ve followed my blog for any amount of time, I’m sure you can imagine the self-talk that was going on while I was making this bra. After all the tries and trials I’ve had, I kept telling myself to not get excited. That is probably wasn’t going to fit. That this was just going to get me one step closer, and it was fine.

Well, it fits! It fits perfectly! No alterations. No fitting issues. No adjustments. This pattern fits as is, with only the Omega adjustments to fit it into my cradle.The bridge is the correct width for me, the cups fit, and the bridge also tacks all the way to the top of the bridge. I hated to take this off for photos.

I decided to make fabric straps to go with the bra, and I do like them. I may change that up for my next one so they don’t have the lace trim on the inside. Just for a different look.

As well, mine is made of duoplex, as I don’t have a lot of micro duoplex in my stash. I did order some so I can try it. 

I was also so excited I immediately dug into my stash looking for some panty fabric to make a set. Oh, these are adorable!

Here’s my whole set.

I’m a happy bra-maker today, and I’m already planning my next one. However, I also have a dress to make for a family wedding. I’ll have to fit in some time for me too and make a few more pretty Josey bras.

Happy creating!         

First attempt at the Josey Bra Pattern

~ Michelle

There are a few lovely bra patterns out there that I’ve yet to try. However, before I tried them, I had to figure out all the changes to my size over the last few years.

All the work on the fitting band, and getting the right wire, I was ready to try one of those pretty new-to-me patterns. I chose the Josey pattern for my first new pattern to try.Version 2 of the Josey pattern was released last week, so it was perfect timing for me to try the newer version too. It has quite a few adjustments done to the pattern.

The first thing I did was to sew up a test cup. I know my band and wires are good now. It was time to dig into my stash and find some bits that were left over from other projects and test the cup.

I found the perfect amount of duoplex, and some lace for my test cup.It’s very pretty, but it’s a tad too small across the cup.Just as the inside of the cup doesn’t cover all of the foam cup underneath it, it doesn’t reach all the way across to where it would meet my bridge.

If you remember how I was going to hack my frame from two different sizes, I’m thinking of doing the same thing with the Josey pattern.

Above is a frame that fits a 38 wire (pencil), and a  40 wire (pink pencil). The heavy dotted line is where the two sizes blend together.

Seeing as I need to make Omega adjustments, I don’t really want to go with a bigger bottom cup, so don’t want a bigger size for that. However, I do need more room about mid-way and at the top of the cup. A larger size there might just be perfect.

I’ll play with it a little this week and let you know.

Happy creating!

Root Cast

~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

Since my last post, I have to say that I have worn my new bra a few times, and it’s wearable. It’s not pinching all the time. I think the Flexi-wires are helping with that.

After my last post when I planned to work on my draft some more, things went in a different direction. I went to my sewing room planning to draft up a hybrid cradle. Then walked out again, It was time to do a root cast. No more getting close, or thinking I had the correct shape. Out came the masking tape. I was making a root cast.

I taped piece after piece after piece on myself. I wanted it at least four layers thick so when I removed it, it didn’t distort at all when pulled away from my skin. I got it. Now to test this against all the wires I have.

Here it is with the Orange 38 wire. This is the wire I thought was closest to my shape, and it’s not totally off. However, it’s not exactly the same either.This was so odd because when I traced my root with a wire and compared it to the different wire shapes, this was the closest in size and shape. Below is the photo I took of my root trace over the Orange wires.However, after wearing this wire, I can tell you it’s not the right wire for me.

Next up was the 38 XL wire from BMS. This is the wire I’ve been told more than once is the correct wire for me. However, like the Orange wire, I knew from wearing this wire that it wasn’t correct.   I didn’t have to see this wire-root comparison to know this wire wasn’t the right size or shape. I knew this wire pinched on the sides. Again, this is not the right wire for me.

A few months back when I was working on my wire trace, I bent a BMS 38 XL wire out to my correct size.So, of course I needed to see how this wire would compare to my root trace. This is about as good as it gets. My only hesitation with this is I’ve heard the wires aren’t always as stable (can break) with washing and wearing after they’ve been bent. I had to bend it a fair amount. So, although this is an option, I still had one other wire to try.

Here’s the Flexi-wire.Hmm. About the same as the bent wire above, but I don’t have to bend anything. It will flex and take my shape.

I did try the 38 Flexi-wire too, but it’s just a bit too short for me, but as you can see, the 40 Flexi-wire is the better fit.If you’re interested in reading more about bending wires, and what can happen, Jennifer (Porcelynne) mentions that in her recent blog post.  

Now to take that root trace, and draft a cradle for exactly my shape.

Happy creating!

Wire Woes Still

~ Michelle

I’m still having issues with my wires! Still. I can’t even begin to tell you how frustrating this is. As I’m sitting here thinking about it, I remember my mom telling me she couldn’t wear a bra with wires – they always hurt her. I guess I know what I inherited from mom.

I’ll never forget when I did my moulage (back in 2014), I took one look and thought that’s my mom’s body! Yes, I’m really understanding why my mom couldn’t wear underwired bras.

However, I’m not ready to give up yet. 

 My pretty new summery bra hurts. It doesn’t hurt all over. Just in one little place. You all know what an uncomfortable bra feels like – it only needs to hurt in one place.

It feels like the wires are pinching me at the top of the channeling.Right there where the pink arrow is pointing.

I took out the Orange 38 wires. I don’t think the are wide enough at the top. They’re close in shape, but not quite a match for me.

I didn’t close the channeling on this bra so I could test the wires. I tried the Orange wires for a day and knew they were not going to work. Now I’m wearing Flexi-wires, but my bra is still pinching there. Because Flexi-wires have so much flex, I’m thinking it’s the cradle now. I made this cradle to fit a 38 Orange wire.

Thinking about this, I think I need to alter my cradle. A cradle that fits a 38 wire is the right size for the bottom of my cradle, but I think I need a cradle that fits a 40 wire for the top.

When I was first looking at wires with my root trace, I could see the 40 wire fit the top of my trace. 

Here’s what I’m thinking. I’ll make a copy of two cradles – one that fits a 38 wire and one that fits a 40 wire. Then I’ll use the bottom of the 38-sized cradle and the top of the 40-sized one, smoothing out the line between the two pattern sizes.  Above is a cradle that fits a 38 wire drawn in pencil. Then the pink is the cradle that fits a 40 wire. The darker dotted line is the blending of the two.

I’m off to draft a new cradle.

Happy creating!