Organizing My Patterns

Have you heard of ClubBMV? It’s a great club where you buy a yearly membership, and then you can buy patterns from Butterick, McCall’s, Vogue and Kwik Sew – usually at a discount.

ClubBMV-logo

Just last weekend I received an email saying they were having an all-brand sale. Well, of course I had to go look.

There were a few patterns in my wish list I was considering. But as I was looking, I started to wonder which patterns I had already that were similar. I may have known I didn’t have that exact pattern, but did I really want to have two similar patterns. (I’m sure all pattern makers are dreading that thought process!)

It was time to organize my patterns in a way I could simply look and see what I had. My physical patterns are all arranged numerically, and by designer, but that didn’t answer my question quickly. I didn’t want to go through a stack of patterns to see what else I had.

I started with a simple list in Word.

Word list (2)

This is part of my list of Vogue patterns. I did keep this list as it will be easily referenced and updated.

Next, I took this list and opened it in a new Word document. Now it was time to make it more of a quick visual reference.

Sizing for images (2)

I looked up each pattern, copied the artwork for it so I could see it right away, and sized each photo around 3.5 cm. It did take a little time, but it is so worth-while!

patterns with number on page (2)

Here’s a sample of my pages. These are a sampling of my Butterick patterns. I can see quickly what each pattern I have looks like. I love it!

I have a sewing binder full of ideas, and this will now go at the very front of my binder.

Next, I plan to attack organize my PDF patterns…

Happy creating!

Ivory and Lavender

I just finished reading Mrs. Weaver’s latest blog post. Oh my! That’s about sums it up.

two bras

Honestly, I thought Lavender and Lace was such a lovely bra. This new color combination and the lace simply push it over the top.

Mrs. Weaver has a new website coming and this kit can be ordered on there. Just look how pretty this is:

kit

Oh, that is so pretty! I want. It’s really simple.

Happy creating!

The Perfect T-Shirt Take Two

I love my Perfect T-shirt.

on bench

The concept behind The Perfect T-Shirt is to make a working muslin and make any adjustments you need to that tee and the pattern at the same time. That’s a really great idea.

I did do that, but there were still a couple of changes I wanted to make before I had my absolutely perfect tee.

The neckline on my first tee fits me the same as any other RTW tee – it gapes a bit. Sizing down would be too small, so it was time to figure out what adjustment needed to be made.

I pulled out a favorite resource.

071349_1_1

The recommendation in this book for a gaping neckline is to adjust the shoulders. Perfect. You can download a sample from the book here.

It was time for my wonderful knit sloper to come out again and compare it to the pattern.* (see the note at the bottom of the post)

shoulder

Do you see how the shoulders aren’t the same? My sloper (on top of the pattern) really shows my shoulders are shorter at the neckline edge than the pattern’s. That difference on the front and back on each side adds up to 1″ more than I need around the neckline.

I also adjusted the hip area on the pattern. I had graded up to a Medium in the hips on my first tee and it gave it a bit of a peplum look. As well, the hips were a bit loose, but a Small wouldn’t give me enough room in the Hips. I was right in-between the two sizes, so I re-drew my cutting line right in-between those two size lines.

Sewing up my Perfect T-shirt was fine. I did do one thing differently than what is recommended in the pattern instructions. One thing they do recommend is to sew the sleeves in before sewing the sides up. I really like that flat constructions style of sewing garments. It makes it easier. Along that same way of thinking, I used knit interfacing on the shirt hem and the sleeve hem and added those to the garment while the pieces were flat too. The instructions say to do that after the garment is all sewn. I did that the first time and let me tell you, this is a lot easier. It might be different if I were using the same products Pamela recommends though.

interfaced hem

The only other little bump on the road to sewing this was I adjusted both shoulders to make the neckline fit better and forgot to adjust the neckline binding. So I had it all cut out and was pinning it, and couldn’t figure out why there was more. I went and checked the pattern again.Still didn’t clue in. Remember that inch I mentioned before? That was exactly how much extra I had. I rolled my eyes when I realized what I had done. It was a small bump. I adjusted the binding and wrote it in my pattern for next time.

note

I wasn’t the only one to write a note on my instructions. I went away for a weekend a while ago and I guess DS1 was bored. I have these little ‘hi’ notes all over. I smile when I find a new one. I just found this one this week.

Here’s my new Perfect T-shirt.

front

I also lengthened the sleeves a bit too. On my next one I plan to play with the sleeves some more.

Side

tee back

I’m loving these cotton/Lycra knits my local fabric store is carrying.

collor

Here’s a close up of the only part of my Perfect tee that really needed changing.

We’ll all have to wait until I have a photographer to see it on me.

Happy creating!

Sleep Masks

I love to wear a sleep mask at night. I don’t want to see the light from the phone, or the alarm clock, or the smoke detector.

We were on holidays when I first realized how great a sleep mask was. The smoke detector was right over the bed and shining its evil green light in my eyes all night long. I went shopping the next day.

The one I’ve been wearing, well, it was old and falling apart. It was long past time for a new one. I looked around the web and found this pattern.

full_901_84191_AdultSleepEyeMask_3

This pattern (and the image) are both from PetitBebeCreatioNZ on Craftsy. The photo has a link in it, so you can just click on that and it will take you right to the pattern.

It’s a great pattern with wonderful instructions.

new vs old

What’s left of my old purchased one is shown at the top of the photo. It was literally falling apart – that’s just the inner piece. There was also the back and front that fell off it. Below it is the sleep mask I made using the free pattern. These are pretty much the same size.

However, it’s summer here and the sun is up early and down late. I don’t want any light at all. It was time to supersize my sleep mask. I found another free pattern on So Sew Easy. I found the instructions so thorough from the first pattern that I used them again and didn’t even glance at the other instructions, just the pattern.

Here you can see the new oversized one compared to the old fallen apart one. It’s definitely bigger.

Old vs Newest

Yes! Now we’re talking block out all the light.

For comparison’s sake, here are both of my new ones.

Newest vs new

That is seriously oversized! But I’m happy with it.

Another definite bonus of making my own sleep mask is I can measure how much elastic I need to fit me. The store-bought mask had Velcro to fasten it – and that Velcro caught in my hair all the time until I replaced it. This is good right from the start.

Happy creating!

Baubles & Backgrounds

Do you see my new blog format? I’ve been doing a little work on it in the past week. I’ll share more on that later in the post.

This week I was playing with beads again. It was time for a new Medical ID bracelet for me, and for a friend.

oldMy friend had purchased this bracelet, but as you can see, after wearing it for well over a year, she needed a new one. The coating on the Swarovski pearls had worn off. Now, she wears her bracelet all the time – in the shower, swimming – she doesn’t take it off.

I’ve used Swarovski crystals and pearls in the past and they haven’t done this, but I haven’t put them through all that hard wearing either. I take my bracelet off daily.

The new bracelet I made her is in the above photo as well, but here’s a better photo:

new over oldThe new bracelet is over the old one. It looks much better. Classic design and lines. It’s lovely. I just might need one too.

While I had all my jewelry-making supplies out, I decided to make myself a bracelet. I love turquoise in the summer but didn’t have a Medical ID bracelet in turquoise. I do now.

bracelet

The center three stone beads aren’t turquoise, but are the same stones I’d used in some earrings – dyed Imperial Jasper. The bracelet also has some lovely Sterling silver spacer and feature beads. I’ve been happily wearing it all week. My earrings, below, show you my matchy matchy. I made these last year.

blue earrings

Other than playing with beads, I mentioned I’ve been playing with my blog format. Do you like it? I love it too. It looks so clean and crisp.

Sadly it took more time than I would have liked. I’m not the most technical person, but I’m learning! Just to give you an example I took a full day to redirect the traffic from my old blog site to my new one. After spending time researching, trying something, it not working, more research and more tries… well, I found out I couldn’t do it myself. WordPress had to do that. It was so easy after I pushed a button and paid them a very small and very worthwhile fee! Done.

After redirecting, I spent some time taking photos for my background. I’d found a lovely lace background that I would have had to pay a terrible price to use – way more than real lace cost! Hmm, time to get some lace out.

Here are a few of my attempts before I found just what I wanted:

sparkle ivory over gold

This is a lovely lace, but I wanted more in my background than just lace. The lace background was my original inspiration, but now I wanted more of me in it.

horizontal black white and gold over goldThis is my kind of lace. This is so beautiful, but I found the black a bit distracting as a background when I was trying to read the text. As much as I loved it, I thought a little less just might be better for a background.

photocopyThis one was a lot closer to what I wanted and what I felt represented me. But It wasn’t quite perfect for me yet. For my final background, you can see I kept my pearls and added my thimble. Perfect!

Happy creating!

Did You Know This About Your Presser Foot? About Thread?

In this post I have a few tips for you.

I recently had some fun working in a sewing machine store. I felt like I’d found a dream job, but sadly an old injury made its presence known again and I couldn’t continue to work there.

While I was there I was learning so much though. Imagine a  job where you have to learn all the different sewing machines, what they do, and then practice. I told everyone I’d gotten a job in a toy store. The only thing that could possibly have been better would be to work somewhere like Bra-Makers Supply. Well, that or a jewelry store.

One of the first things I learned was about my own sewing machine. I’d even taken lessons for my new machine when I bought it and didn’t learn this:

Did you see my presser foot? One of my complaints with this sewing machine had been there’s just was not enough room under that presser foot. Well, no problem now that I’ve learned if I just continue to lift it up a bit more than it goes up on its own there’s lots of room. It won’t stay there on its own, but I’m very happy with this newly found information and have put it to use already.

Here’s something else I learned that is so interesting, and affects all of us who sew – thread can be wound onto the spools upside down! Did you know thread had a right way of unwinding and a wrong way? Me either.

So, what difference does that make? Take a look:

If you look at the beginning of the video, you’ll see I’m taking the thread off the spool with the name at the top, which we’d normally consider to be the top of the spool. As soon as I pull the thread out from the spool, it soon starts to twist. According to how the thread has been wound on the spool, the top of that spool is really the bottom. We need to test our threads (each spool we buy) before sewing so they won’t twist on us in our machines. Really, who knew?

It was suggested to me when I buy thread, bring it home and test it before sewing. Then once I know which way the thread won’t twist, take a marker and put a dot on the ‘real’ top of thread so as to know how to load it. Thread twisting in our machines is not something we want. That’s a great tip!

One last tip, but this one isn’t a video. This is from my recent Ivory Bomb.

In the past I always worked from the front when attaching my strap elastic. I just made sense to me.

strap frontHowever, on my ivory bomb, I decided to pin the elastic to the band from the inside.

strap elasticI loved how the power net was meeting the edge of the elastic. In the past, I would notice they didn’t always meet perfectly the way I wanted when I pinned from the front. Sometimes the pins would push the power net rather than go through it. I’ll be pinning my strap elastic this way from now on.

Happy creating!

The Perfect T-Shirt

Last year I saw a Sewing With Nancy episode – Sew the Perfect T-Shirt. I was so glad I PVRed that episode. I have been wanting to make a T-shirt, and who doesn’t want the perfect one?

You can watch the episodes here: Part One and Part Two.

After watching the episode, I immediately went over to Pamela’s Patterns and ordered her Perfect T-Shirt pattern.

Perfect Tee

The pattern has been sitting patiently on my desk with so many other projects for a few months now, but it was time. I bought a whole whack of cotton/Lycra to make Tees for summer. It was time.

I love the approach Pamela takes on the show. You determine your size, and then start with that sized Tee, any alterations are done to that first Tee and the pattern at the same time. I think that’s a great idea! That way you get a corrected pattern and a correctly fitting Tee with one alteration.

There was one glitch. I started reading the instructions (see, I learned from the last project) and then went to our local fabric store to find Stay Tape. Well, it seems no one in Canada seems to know anything about Stay Tape. The stores don’t carry it. So instead of getting on with my sewing, I was trying to figure out a replacement for Stay Tape. We also had a looming mail strike, so there was no way I was going to order anything and possibly wait three months to get it.

I used woven and knit interfacing in place of the Stay Tape. I found a great blog post on Pattern Fantastique describing  how to make your own Stay Tape and decided I’d try it.

Here’s the interfacing on the shoulders. I used woven interfacing as Pamela said to use the woven stay tape here.

Interfacing

For the neckline I used a knit interfacing. Both were fine. (Sorry for the blurry pic.)

Interfacing on neckline and sleeve

Here’s my Tee:

Front of Tee

I adjusted this pattern to make a size Small top, with shortened armholes, lowered the bust dart, and graded up a size for my hips. The grading up gives this tee a peplum look, which I wasn’t wanting. The hips are a bit loose, so I may try a size Small for my next tee.

And from the side:

Side of Tee

I love how the darts on this disappear. You can’t see them at all. That was a small concern I had before making the pattern. I didn’t want to draw attention to my bust by adding a dart to give enough room for the bust. It might be different on a solid colored fabric, but on this it’s great!

And the back:

Back of Tee

It all came together very well, and I will definitely be making more.

I really like this pattern. Pamela has a second pattern that goes with this one that’s all necklines. I know what I’m ordering soon. I love the darted bust, which saved me from making a Full Bust Adjustment.

I do have a couple of changes to make still. I think I’d like longer sleeves for my tees, and the neckline is a tad loose. I need to adjust the inner shoulders to bring that up.

Here I am on a really feel-good day in a total Me-made wardrobe:  top, bottom, and undergarments. And I’m in the mountains (trying very hard not to squint). My hubby says take off your sunglasses. No sunglasses = squinting.

Me in mountains

Happy creating!

Canada Day Blog Hop – Jalie Sewing Patterns

Tomorrow is Canada Day. Happy birthday, Canada!

For my stop on the Canada Day Blog Hop, I’ve used a pattern from a Canadian pattern company that’s new for me. Although I’ve heard of Jalie Patterns, I had yet to try any of their patterns. Thank you, Jalie, for providing me with your 2568 Camisole & Panties pattern for our blog hop.

jalie-logo

First, I’d want to say, I had a little difficulty finding the sizing for Jalie’s patterns on their website. It’s not prominent, but it can be found. You know all those sayings about reading the instructions first? Well, the sizing information was with the instructions. I could have made things easier for myself if I had started with them. So if you try Jalie’s patterns, don’t search all over their website for sizing – it’s with your pattern.

For anyone who’s wondering, I found Jalie’s sizing spot on. First, I found my size on their sizing charts and marked my multi-sized pattern, then I pulled out my knit sloper to compare. It was so very close, it might as well have been an exact match – my bust and hips on my sloper hit exactly where the sizing charts put me. That’s good! However, I was wondering about the neckline and if it would be too big. I wasn’t sure, so I decided to follow the sizing guidelines. My reason for wondering is I’m a S, M, and XL all wrapped into one. Jalie doesn’t use the sizing S, M, L… Their sizes run from an F to a FF (looking at the Panties). So it’s a completely different way of sizing. Everything is explained clearly, so just follow what they’re saying and you’ll get a great fit.

Jalie’s patterns are multi-sized patterns – 27 sizes in all. Before you faint when looking at all those sizes, take into consideration there are Children, Women’s and Plus sizes all on one PDF pattern. Being multi-sized with so many sizes, there are at times some dizzying lines to follow to cut out your own size, but it’s all doable.

Jalie pattern piece

You can see from this piece of the pattern there are a lot of lines coming together at that one point. I’m used to Adult multi-sized patterns with only four or five lines.

So, how did that neckline fit? It is loose. However, I made this camisole into a nightie, so I’m not minding that it’s looser in the neckline. For a camisole, I would make a smaller size for the neckline and adjust for the bust.

wider lace at neckline

Above you can see the neckline in the pre-sewing stages. I first looked a thinner lace (below), but decided on this one, which is the same lace I used for the hemline.

Lace for neckline

This thinner lace has no oomph at all. The thinner lace was used for the armholes and leg openings.

Here’s my lovely summer nightie:

Nightie 2

To make this I simply added six inches to the bottom of the camisole pattern. It was very easy.  As I mentioned, I added some lovely lace to dress up the hem a bit more too.

Now onto the panties. I chose the low-cut Hipster panties from the pattern. The pattern comes with four different styles of panties to make and match the camisole. There are low-cut Hipsters, high-cut Hipsters, Bikinis, and an all-lace Hipster option.

Hipsters

These panties are super cute. Overall, this is a very sweet camisole/panty set.

Set

In celebration of our blog hop, and Canada Day, and everything Canadian, all of Beverly Johnson’s classes on Craftsy are 50% off! Yes, just follow this link and you can get any of Beverly’s bra-making classes, or her swimwear class – but only until July 3rd. ‘Only in Canada, you say?’ Well, we’re not talking Red Rose Tea here. These Craftsy savings are for anyone! (Sorry if you missed our discount. I’m sure there will be more savings in the future.)

And speaking of the Fairy Bra Mother, if you missed it, pop over to Seam of my Pants to read Marsha’s interview with her here. It’s a great interview! (Why didn’t I think of interviewing the Fairy Bra Mother!!!)

As well, don’t forget all the deals I mentioned when our blog hop started. You can find all the savings being offered on Happy Okapi here.

Happy creating!

a Rafflecopter giveaway


Canada Day 2016 Blog Hop Schedule

Be sure to visit each of these brilliant blogs this week for more on our
outstanding Canadian designers and suppliers:

And, of course, to enter our giveaway for some sweet-like-maple-syrup prizes.

June 24: The Tour Starts HERE at Happy Okapi

June 25: Celine guest posts on Happy Okapi; Marsha @ Seam of my Pants

June 26: Fiona @ Tangled Blossoms Designs; Carla @ Half Dozen Daily

June 27: Sherry @ Thread Riding Hood; Reece @ Happy Okapi

June 28: Nicky guest posts on Seam of my Pants

June 29: Daniela @ On the Cutting Floor; Reece @ Happy Okapi

June 30: Michelle @ Michelle’s Creations

Canada Day–June 31*: Ula @ Lulu & Celeste

July 2: Marsha @ Seam of my Pants

July 3: Keshia @ Sand Dollar Design Studio

July 4: Wrap Up @ Happy Okapi

July 6: Giveaway winners announced

* Yes, we know!


Announcing The Canada Day 2016 Blog Hop

This week I’m participating in a fun blog hop – just in time for Canada Day! For our hop, we’re featuring Canadian pattern designers. How Canadian is that, eh? I’ll be trying a new pattern and new-for-me company. Our blog hop starts today over on Happy Okapi and there is a list of wonderful deals in the post – all to celebrate Canada’s birthday. See below for the complete blog schedule.


Canada Day 2016 Blog Hop Schedule

Be sure to visit each of these brilliant blogs this week for more on our
outstanding Canadian designers and suppliers:

And, of course, to enter our giveaway for some sweet-like-maple-syrup prizes.

June 24: The Tour Starts HERE at Happy Okapi

June 25: Celine guest posts on Happy Okapi; Marsha @ Seam of my Pants

June 26: Fiona @ Tangled Blossoms Designs; Carla @ Half Dozen Daily

June 27: Sherry @ Thread Riding Hood; Reece @ Happy Okapi

June 28: Nicky guest posts on Seam of my Pants

June 29: Daniela @ On the Cutting Floor; Reece @ Happy Okapi

June 30: Michelle @ Michelle’s Creations

Canada Day–July 1: Ula @ Lulu & Celeste

July 2: Marsha @ Seam of my Pants

July 3: Keshia @ Sand Dollar Design Studio

July 4: Wrap Up @ Happy Okapi

July 6: Giveaway winners announced