Bra Patterns

Neon Garden Margareta

~ Michelle ~ Leave a comment

After sewing all those lovely Margareta fitting bras, I really wanted to sew a Margareta for myself. So I did just that.

I used a kit that has been in my stash for a few months, and unfortunately is sold out at Bwear.

This was their Neon Garden kit. I had used some of this lace for Em’s March bra. And I purposely didn’t try to match the lace motifs so there would be enough left over for me.

I’m glad I did.     Before sewing this up, I knew I’d have to make a number of changes to the pattern so it would fit me.

I did my Omega adjustments: I lowered the bridge, lowered the side of the frame and narrowed it. I took darts out of all the cup seams so it would fit into the now smaller frame. Lastly I took 1/2″ out of the upper cup depth.

I did sew up a quick mock up and was pretty sure I was really close. So I broke out the pretty lace. If you look closely, this lace isn’t matched either. There just wasn’t enough lace left to match. So I made pretty cups with an all-over pattern. There’s only one more adjustment I need to make for this to fit perfectly: I need to narrow the upper bridge. Everything else was great.    This is so pretty!

Next week I’ll share another lovely Margareta.

Until then, Happy creating!

Storing and Transporting my Fitting Bras.

~ Michelle ~ 4 Comments

This is just a short post to share how I’m storing my new fitting bras.

My previous set of fitting bras were all stored in plastic zip bags, but after a couple of years sitting in those bags, the bags were beginning to get that old feeling. I knew I wanted something better for that older set, and my new set of Margareta fitting bras.

Off to Amazon I went to browse to see what I could find that would be better than plastic bags.

I found a couple of things to share.

First off, I found these great hanger clips.

   These work perfectly! There are just the right number of clips for all the fitting bras to fit on two hangers.

The second thing I found was something to store them in, and protect them when traveling with them. Hanging garment bags.

   These were both perfect options.

Here’s how I’m using them. Each bra is labeled by its US size, its BCD size, and its European size, as these are a European pattern. For my own ease, I’ve hung them in the BCD sizes.

Finally, I’ve labeled the garment bag, and the hanger clips for easy identification when I’m looking for a size. I’ll be back next week with a new make.

Happy creating!

Another Roxie Watson

~ Michelle

The Watson is Em’s favorite bra/bralette pattern, so I’m making her another one this month.

Actually I’m making her two more. I know, she’s getting spoiled. But she spoils me right back so it’s all good.

The Roxie kit from B,Wear actually has enough material in the kit for me to get three bras out of it for Em. I’m digging into my stash for the elastics, but there’s lots of the actual fabric.

I also have to say, the Lycra in this kit is the nicest I’ve ever used! It’s so soft and has more weight to it than any other. I really like this Lycra!

Okay, back to Em’s February Watson. For this one I decided not to line the cups with the Lycra – just to give her a different look.

I think this is utterly charming! Here are a few photos of this adorable bra with some matchy matchy. Oh this is pretty. I am in love with this Italian embroidered mesh. I have some more in my stash. I think it’s time to use it. Em and I went through my patterns and picked out a few other styles for her. I’m also going to sew her the Barrette Bralette. the Maris Bralette, and the Sierra Bralette. She really liked all of these Madalynne patterns.

Here’s the Barrette pattern. Lucky girl, I have some of this amazing band elastic to use for this too. She may need me to add a hook and eye in the back, but I can do that.

Here’s the Maris pattern:Em loved this one!

And the Sierra:   I think Em’s going to enjoy her year of being spoiled.

Lastly, here’s a collage showing this new Watson with the previous one – just so you can see the difference with the lined cups and the unlined ones.

The last one will be slightly different again, but you have to wait until next week to see that one. 

(And if you’re wondering about pants, I’m still working on them.)

Happy creating!

 

Gunilla Freja Bra

~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

My most recent Freja is from a lovely kit I bought from B,Wear. I saw a gorgeous bra Bodil had made on IG, and sent her a message asking if there was a kit.Not long after that, this lovely Gunilla kit was available. I looked to see if this kit was still on her website, but unfortunately it’s not. It wouldn’t hurt to request it again though.

I loved the rich colors of this, and had to make it up in my current favorite pattern. Here’s my Gunilla Freja bra. Oh, I love this lace. I do hope I can get some more of it too. It would look wonderful with ivory or blue, but I have to say the red really makes it pop!

Here’s the side view.  Do you see that peek of ivory at the back? For a long time I wouldn’t make a bra if the kit didn’t have all matching parts. The band and straps had to be the same color. But I’m more open to coordinating fabrics like this set now. It gives me more options too. 

Recently, at the Sewing Bee, Lily of LilypaDesigns said she really likes B,Wear’s stabilized satin fabric. I think this must be that fabric.

In the past I’ve used the stretch satin Bodil carries, but this only had the mechanical stretch – no real stretch. It also feels firmer than duoplex, so would be a great option for those needing more support.

Lastly, the back of the bra.  I’m thrilled with a new pattern that fits me so well. I already have 3 more kits on the cutting table to make next. I do have plans to test a few more patterns, but I really love this bra pattern. 

Happy creating!

Freja in Ivory

~ Michelle

I was so happy with getting such a good fit with the Freja pattern, I made another one right away. Making this pattern is really inspiring me to clone and alter my favorite RTW Fantasie Vivenne. It’s one of my projects for during the Bee.

Here are the two of bras together, the pattern and the RTW bra.They are quite similar.

Here’s mine again from the side.

And here’s the back view.This lovely lace comes from B,Wear.

It’s a lovely left and right sided lace.Working with these lovely flowers made me remember something I’d been told. Always place your flowers so they are climbing up or growing up. If they’re growing downwards, your cups will look sad. And you don’t want sad looking cups.So I was careful when placing my lace to make sure I had happy looking cups and my flowers were all growing upwards.

Happy creating!

A Perfect Freja Bra

~ Michelle ~ 4 Comments

I’ve just had the best couple of days sewing. My niece wanted to learn to sew a bra but we live in different provinces. So we did video sewing. We’re already talking about what and when we’re going to sew next.

My niece sewed up a Classic pattern from BMS. I wasn’t interested in sewing the same pattern though. What I sewed up actually came from Bodil of B,Wear. She had suggested I try the Freja pattern from BMS. She thought it would be a good fit for me.

FREJA Bra PATTERN A Pin Up Girls Original Pattern image 1I had tried the pattern once before and the cups were too small for me. I hadn’t gone back to the pattern. I decided it was time to try it again.

Here’s the first Freja I made.Oh, I loved the lace and the copper duoplex together. I was sad it didn’t fit perfectly. 

One of the reasons I wanted to re-try the Freja is one of my favorite RTW bras was the Fantasie Vivienne bra.  I loved the shaping of this bra, and the Freja is very close to the same shaping.

This time I went up a size in BCD and the cups are perfect!  Here’s my new Freja.I had this lovely pink kit from BMS so decided to use it for my second attempt of the Freja. It’s lovely!I could use the tip from Porcelynne on the side  here – to add another strip of channeling beside the wire channeling and add boning there. However, when I was wearing this it wasn’t bothering me that the wire is a little lower at the side.I’m really happy with how the Freja fits. Yes, there’s a little playing around I can do to help my Omega shape fit even better, but for an attempt I wasn’t sure would turn out better than the first time, I’m very happy.Next I’m thinking of making a pair of panties to match. 

It was wonderful to sew again. Wearing the splint, I’m slowly gaining movement in my thumb again. Thankfully, I can sew while wearing it.

Happy creating!

Porcelynne’s Eve Demi Cup Bra

~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

Well, I did it. I finished my Eve demi cup bra, and I have to tell you it is incredibly comfortable.

It took a lot of work to find my perfect size and fit. I think I made at least 4 fitting bands to get it just right, then I must have made 6 (or possibly more) cups sizes and styles.

I was not getting that perfect fit with the Eve until we tried the demi cup. Than we found the cup style that fits me best.This lovely kit came from Porcelynne’s shop.

I can’t tell how wonderful it was to sew again. I just had to do it in bits. My hand is recovering, but it’s recovering slowly. Still. I couldn’t just not sew. I have a three different splints I’ve been wearing, and they’ve made it possible for me to do everything I need to do AND sew.

I have more sewing plans for the summer – maybe too many for how slowly I’m sewing – but I can’t wait to work on more projects.  Here’s the back of the bra. It has a nice curved U shape to the straps. Despite all the testing, this was a bit big for me. I think it’s mostly due to the fabric. I’d been using nylplex from Bodil’s shop for my test bras. This time I used the kit from Jennifer’s shop.   

One last mention, which I did mention before. This little strip of channeling beside the actual channeling is holding a piece of boning. Before I started to recommend this to everyone, I wanted to wear this and know it was comfortable. Honestly. I couldn’t feel it at all.

It’s a great tip for all the Omegas out there to get a better fit and get the coverage they need with smaller wires. It works!

Happy creating and I hope to be back soon with more makes.

Porcelynne’s Eve Cups Redesigned

~ Michelle ~ 4 Comments

Hello. I’m sorry it’s been so long since I’ve posted. I had an odd after-affect from a cold. I had so much pain in my one hand, I could hardly do anything with it. It’s slowly improving, and I’m hoping to get back to normal soon.

I have many sewing plans so need my hand 100%! So, what have I been doing? I’ve been testing the re-designed Eve bra. 

Eve Classic Bra Bundled Pattern - image 1

Jennifer and I agreed the regular Eve cups did not fit me. So I tried the Vertical cups. They are part of the Eve Classic Bra pattern – which is now available. It has the regular cup, Vertical cups, and Demi cups.

Jennifer and I agreed that we were close, but think the Demi cups will be the best fit for me.

I’ve cut out my first pair and they were too small. I have the next size all sewn up and will be putting those into my fitting band right away.

Eve Classic Bra Cup

Let me tell you a few things that impressed me with the Eve cups.

I was using a 38 wire, but to help with side coverage, we made my cradle a 42 wire length. What amazed me over and over was how the cup fit into this cradle WITH NO ALTERATIONS!!!

Honestly, this was amazing to me. Stunning in fact. After the many years of so many alterations to get a cup to fit in a smaller cradle, this really did amaze me.

Jennifer has designed all these cups to fit into different cradles. For example, a D cup that would fit a 38 wire cradle, and a D cup that fits a 40 wire cradle, and one that fits a 42 wire cradle, and so on. The same for the E cup, and the F cup, and so on up and down the cup size range. All designed for each cup to fit different sizes of wires/cradles. All with no extra work on your part.

Here take a look:    Do you see where the cup joins the side seam? There isn’t a dart in the cup. There are no gatherings along the wire line. No, this cup is simply designed to fit into this size cradle.

That might not seem like a big deal when most patterns’ cups fit into the cradle – but that doesn’t work when you are an Omega! No, that means adjustments. But not with this pattern.

If you’re wondering, I could have used a cup that fit into a 38 cradle too – but I really don’t get enough side coverage and support with that.  

I don’t know of another bra-maker/designer who has done this for each cup size! There are hundreds of cups. I promised to tell you something else about the side of this bra. Do you see where that red line is? That’s where my wire ends. Normally, if the side of the bra was raised up this much higher than the wire, the side seam would be flopping over. Not here.

The reason is Jennifer had me sew a strip of channeling as close as I could beside the wire channeling, Then insert a piece of boning there. It worked perfectly. It gave me a little more side coverage which I need, and I can’t feel it there.

I am honestly very impressed with the redesigned Eve cup pattern. If you have problems fitting your bra cups into your frame like me, or even if you want an incredibly designed cup, really, give these a try.

Happy creating!

P.S. I’ll be back soon.

The Prettiest Josey Bra

~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

You’ve heard me say this many times before, but I loved this lace when I saw it. Do you all have the same problem? I can’t be the only one to fall in love over and over with laces.

But. I saw this lace and thought it was so beautiful. You can find it at B,Wear. The link is in the photo as well.It’s described as Light Beige with Pink Flowers. The above photo is on a pink background. Below it is on a darker background.Oh, it’s so delicate and so pretty.

I did something I’ve never done before. The same day I received the lace in the mail, I had the bra cut out and began to sew it up.I had some copper power net and I found it went perfectly with the leaf outlines in the lace.

Here’s my lovely new Josey bra. Because this is a stretch lace, I’ve lined the frame and the cups with an ivory sheer cup lining.Here you can just see a bit of the copper power net.Above is a bit more of a side view. Oh, I love this! The lace is so delicate and so pretty. And the back view. I really love copper power net and duoplex too. I wish I could find the perfect cotton Lycra to match copper though. Has anyone found that? Let me know.

One of these days I am going to try another bra pattern. (I do have one cut out to try. Really.) However, this time it was too hard to resist this lace. I used my TNT Josey pattern so I could sew this up right away.

Happy creating!

Prima Donna Inspired

~ Michelle ~ 4 Comments

As I mentioned in my last blog post, I have a favorite older RTW bra. The Prima Donna Milady. (I won’t show you the same photo again! I’ve been showing it to you for years.)

However, the Milady isn’t my only inspiration. The Prima Donna 2022 Madison collection has some gorgeous bras too.

This is their non-padded full cup seamless bra. This was my inspiration for my latest Josey. Although I do love how my Josey fits me, Booby Traps has a lovely darted bra that might look even more similar to this style. 

 I really loved my latest make – my 3/4 foam cup lined Josey.I really wanted to make it again, but in colors similar to the above Prima Donna. So I did.

Again, I decided to use the 3/4 foam lining, but I lowered it about 1/4-inch. I found both the upper edge of the foam and the cross cup seam were both hitting at the same place. I felt it would look better to sit either below that line or above it. Seeing as the Josey seam is above the apex as it is, I lowered the upper edge of the foam.

This foam-lace bra is so very comfortable, and it’s still a pretty lace bra. It’s the best of both worlds – foam cups and lace cups.I love this! I’m really happy with it.Here is one last photo of my new Josey Milady. Showing the inside of the bra, and the curve of the foam cup.I have to admit, I really love the leopard theme in Prima Donna’s collection. Here’s another inspiration from the same Madison collection.This one I think will be perfect for the Josey pattern, or the Shelly pattern, but I’m going to try copying this color combination on Lilypa’s new bra pattern – Lusamine.I love this style. I can’t wait to make my own bra using the colors of the Madison above.

Happy creating!