Fitting Bras

I have a class coming up at Central Sewing at the beginning of May. I’m making a new pattern, so needed to sew up new fitting bras.

I decided to use up all the bits in my stash to do this. We’ll see if I have enough. I’m not done yet. I started with the smaller sizes, equivalent to the size 2s. These little bras have a bit of everything. I decided along with using up my stash, I would use up whatever threads and bobbins I had – just to make the job go more quickly.

I really have to say it was quite fun and very freeing to just grab a thread, or a bobbin and not worry about matching anything. I don’t think I’d do it for a bra I want to wear, but it’s been fun to do it for these fitting bras.

Next were the equivalent to size 3s. And again, just what I had in my stash.    A friend was asking about them and called them Frankenbras when she heard they were all different colors.

Here are the size equivalents to the 4s.    These look better, don’t they? All nice and the same color.

That is until you see the back! Still, they’re perfectly functional, and I don’t have quite so many bits to store now. All the more reason to buy some more fun things!

Lastly, I thought I’d show you how I organize to sew multiple bras at one time. I’m sewing these all in size sets. So for the most part, I’m sewing four bras at a time.

These are the equivalents to the size 5s.

I print off all the pattern pieces in that size, cut them out and keep each one in a pile. They are also labeled. For each bra, I will sew one thing at a time. So I sew one set up bottom cups together, put it back with the pattern pieces. Pick up the next one and do the same. So all the sewing will be done with the same stitch, either all a straight stitch, or all a zigzag.

It’s much quicker to do it this way, than to sew one bra completely and then sew another one. I’ve all used this approach to sewing for myself say for two black bras, or two pink bras. You get the idea.

Back to sewing for me! Happy creating!

Porcelynne’s Eve Cups Redesigned

Hello. I’m sorry it’s been so long since I’ve posted. I had an odd after-affect from a cold. I had so much pain in my one hand, I could hardly do anything with it. It’s slowly improving, and I’m hoping to get back to normal soon.

I have many sewing plans so need my hand 100%! So, what have I been doing? I’ve been testing the re-designed Eve bra. 

Eve Classic Bra Bundled Pattern - image 1

Jennifer and I agreed the regular Eve cups did not fit me. So I tried the Vertical cups. They are part of the Eve Classic Bra pattern – which is now available. It has the regular cup, Vertical cups, and Demi cups.

Jennifer and I agreed that we were close, but think the Demi cups will be the best fit for me.

I’ve cut out my first pair and they were too small. I have the next size all sewn up and will be putting those into my fitting band right away.

Eve Classic Bra Cup

Let me tell you a few things that impressed me with the Eve cups.

I was using a 38 wire, but to help with side coverage, we made my cradle a 42 wire length. What amazed me over and over was how the cup fit into this cradle WITH NO ALTERATIONS!!!

Honestly, this was amazing to me. Stunning in fact. After the many years of so many alterations to get a cup to fit in a smaller cradle, this really did amaze me.

Jennifer has designed all these cups to fit into different cradles. For example, a D cup that would fit a 38 wire cradle, and a D cup that fits a 40 wire cradle, and one that fits a 42 wire cradle, and so on. The same for the E cup, and the F cup, and so on up and down the cup size range. All designed for each cup to fit different sizes of wires/cradles. All with no extra work on your part.

Here take a look:    Do you see where the cup joins the side seam? There isn’t a dart in the cup. There are no gatherings along the wire line. No, this cup is simply designed to fit into this size cradle.

That might not seem like a big deal when most patterns’ cups fit into the cradle – but that doesn’t work when you are an Omega! No, that means adjustments. But not with this pattern.

If you’re wondering, I could have used a cup that fit into a 38 cradle too – but I really don’t get enough side coverage and support with that.  

I don’t know of another bra-maker/designer who has done this for each cup size! There are hundreds of cups. I promised to tell you something else about the side of this bra. Do you see where that red line is? That’s where my wire ends. Normally, if the side of the bra was raised up this much higher than the wire, the side seam would be flopping over. Not here.

The reason is Jennifer had me sew a strip of channeling as close as I could beside the wire channeling, Then insert a piece of boning there. It worked perfectly. It gave me a little more side coverage which I need, and I can’t feel it there.

I am honestly very impressed with the redesigned Eve cup pattern. If you have problems fitting your bra cups into your frame like me, or even if you want an incredibly designed cup, really, give these a try.

Happy creating!

P.S. I’ll be back soon.

Reviewing Porcelynne’s Bra Making and Fitting Course

Hello! I’m back. I haven’t been doing a lot of sewing but I have done some. Mostly what I’ve been sewing is a fitting band and cups. I’ve been reviewing Porcelynne’s Bra Making and Fitting Course.

If you go there right away you’ll just get a message that the course is being tested. The course is due to be re-released the beginning of June, so I’ll let you know before that. 

As part of the review,  I went through all of the steps in the course. I followed it as if I was a beginner bra maker. I have to be honest, there were many things about the course that really impressed me. But I’m going to make you wait to hear about them all.

For now, I’ll just show you my final fitting band with cups.This is actually two different sized cups. I was testing to see which I preferred.

This next photo is showing something I’ve never heard before. And if you ask me I think it’s brilliant. I’m not going to say more – you have to wait until my next blog post on the course. You tell me what you think is happening here.Lastly, for this post anyway, the back.Have you made a fitting band? I’m already planning to test some other cups in this. I’m also planning to go through Porcelynne’s Eve Sloper Creation course to change the shape of these cups. The volume is perfect – and I cant’ wait to share more on that with you. 

Happy creating!

Bra Fitting 101 Retreat

At the end of April I took the Bra Fitting 101 Retreat at Central Sewing. Our instructor was Jeanette of Sew Uplifting Custom Bras.

Day One started with another gift bag for each of the students. Let me show you the goodies we got.There was a Fitting binder, and a bra and finding kit in my bag (not shown). As well as the great canvas tote. For students who hadn’t taken the Drafting course, they got a few more goodies like sample packs of Duoplex and Power Net, as well as a set of Pin-Up Girls patterns. I had all those already.

We also were given sheets of these little tiny bra parts that we’d be using over the next few days. We spent the morning cutting these out.On Day Two we were starting to learn what changes to make for different alterations – all using those little tiny bra pattern pieces. It was really great to have these, and to have them to keep as a reference.You can see here in this example, it wasn’t a complicated adjustment – just lengthening the band. Having the samples makes it much neater to look and see any of the adjustments – much better than me freehand drawing these examples.

On Days Three and Four we started to work with live models – who turned out to be the other students in the class. We fitted one another with wires, and with Jeanette’s fitting bras – all under the guidance of Jeanette.

I can tell you, I need more experience with both assessing wire sizes and cup sizes. I wasn’t way off. None of us were way off. But we weren’t able to look at someone and just know the size either. Jeanette made it look easy.

While each woman was in a fitting bra, we went through a check list of possible fitting issues. From basics like is that the right size cup, does the band fit, are the straps too long or short, to all the more detailed adjustments.

That takes us to Day Five.

On Day Five, Jeanette assigned each of us to make a bra for another student. But it was all hush-hush. We knew whose bra we were making, but not who was making one for us.

We all had a checklist, and traced off a bra pattern in the correct size. Then we made the alterations to that pattern based on what we’d seen in the fitting bras and what was on the check list.

Day Five was quiet and intense. We were all feverishly sewing trying to get our bras finished. I just made it.

One of the store clerks came to remind us we had to be packed up and out of the store in 20 minutes and I was still sewing! But I was at the hooks and eyes, so I finished those, gave the bra to my fellow student to try on, and saw what further adjustments she would need. I was close, but it wasn’t perfect. I quickly altered her pattern with a little more help from Jeanette, and gave my fellow student her bra and a newly re-adjusted pattern.

Then I managed to pack up just in time to make the store closing deadline.

Whew!

Are you wondering what the bra I made looked like? Well, I didn’t have time to take a single photo. I got home and my hubby said show me the bra you made, and I couldn’t even show him.

I can show you the bra I had made for me. And I can tell you it needs a few adjustments too.Overall, I have to say it was a great class, and gave us all some fabulous tools to take and use going forward.

Happy fitting and creating!

Collage Quilts and Fitting Bras

I’m still working away on my Fitting Bras. Someone asked me why I was making 22 bras for me. These bras aren’t for me to wear. In fact, my size isn’t a more common size, so I won’t even be making one I can wear. No. I’m making these so customers can be fitted and I can make a bra for them.

Fitting Bra Three

Here’s Fitting Bra three. You can see, I’m getting more comfortable writing on them. The size is prominent on the upper cups. However, I also thought it would be a good idea to write the wire size and the bottom cup depth as well.Number four is half sewn, so only 18 1/2 left to sew up.

Break Time

I needed a break from sewing. I’ve just been too busy lately. I’ve been sewing strikes for Libelle Sewing’s Round 4 Pre-Order (which was great fun), and I’ve been taking classes (which I loved). However, all my fun came at the same time. I wanted a sewing break, but I still wanted to do something creative.

Last year when I took a class on Collage Quilting, a friend came with me to the Pop-Up Shop and we both bought the Paisley Bear collage quilt pattern, agreeing we would work on it together.Isn’t this great?

We did get together a few times. We ironed Steam-a-Seam 2 on the back of our fabrics and visited. We cut out some pieces and visited.

After our last get together, I got carried away. I finished my cutting out all my flowers after my friend left, and then I started to place some of my flowers. I was wondering if I had enough flowers cut out, or if I’d need more. Well, I placed one, then another… and I just kept going.

One of the great things about Steam a Seam 2 is you can move things around and decide just how you want things. At least you can move them around until that final ironing. Here, take a look at the eye I did the first time.I did like that little rosebud eye, but decided I wanted more pop for the eye, and nose. I thought it would look better if it didn’t blend in so much. As well, that large flower on the face just wasn’t sitting right with me.

In this next photo, I had made a couple of changes. I used a peacock feather for the eye and a little black-centered pansy for the nose. As well, I changed up the face a bit.This was better. Although there’s a lot more pop for the eye, I thought it was too much. And I still wasn’t happy with the face.

So, a little more cutting and moving things around, and here’s the final version. I’m still using a peacock feather for the eye, but only the very center of it. I think it looks much better now. In fact, I was happy with it at this point and ironed everything down.

There’s still a lot to do. I still need to finish my last collage quilt as well. They both need backings. And then I’ll quilt them both. As I need a break from sewing Fitting Bras, the Bra-Makers 2019 Challenge, or whatever else I’m sewing to keep busy, I’ll work on my quilts.

And I still have another collage quilt I want to make this year. This is the Perfect Form Dress Form collage quilt. It will be so pretty. I’m going to need a lot of flowers for this one.

Happy creating!