As soon as I saw the Bra-Makers Ultimate Challenge, I decided it was something I wanted to do. For most of January and February, I’ve been turning things down. No, I don’t want to do that, try that, or join that. However, the Challenge fit with what I wanted to do – focus on building my skills.
February’s Challenge
Here’s the challenge for February:
February – Love yourself – make any bra, bralette or panties using red stretch satin. There were a few more guidelines on the BMS website.
Isn’t this a sumptuous color? Just click on the link or the photo to go to the BMS website and see it for yourself.
I’ve never worked with stretch satin before. But I’m game.
Plans
While I’m trying some of these new fabrics and patterns, I’m going to incorporate ideas I’ve picked up along the way. One of those ideas is to try the ‘better Shelley strap extension‘. Beverly wrote a tutorial on how to make an extended strap attachment.
This photo is from the BMS blog. You can read the post here. I thought this looked lovely when I first saw it.
Here’s was my sketch trying to decide what to make for February. Did I want to add lace over satin for the power bar? I even entertained using red mesh finished with fold over elastic instead of lace on the upper cup.

All I had decided for sure was to add sheer cup lining to the cups as the satin is a stretch material.
I also drew some new panty ideas for the challenge.
I planned to use my mashed-up Aphrodite pattern, but I wasn’t as happy with it as I hoped. I didn’t like my mash-up. The original pattern is so lovely. Unfortunately, I don’t like elastic at the waist and leg openings.
Putting Plans into Action
I ended up using my drafted panty pattern.
These are stretch satin and cotton Lycra. Then finished with stretch lace at the waist and leg openings. I’m loving these!
I added a lace garment tag to the side. I’ve added these tags to panties I’ve made in the past.
Here’s the side view.
And the back. I was almost out of cotton Lycra, so had to make these with a seam in the back.
I love these! Next I made a the bra to match.
Matchy Matchy
There are so many things I love about this bra! Well, let me show you.
The whole bra cup and cradle is stretch satin. I’ve lined the cup and cradle with beige sheer cup lining. That little part on the upper cup that looks like there’s nothing there? That’s sheer cup lining. It disappears against the skin.
A Few Features
The pattern I used for this bra is cloned from a RTW bra. I loved how the cups fit, but there are a few elements about the bra that are uncomfortable and don’t fit.
So, I lowered the bridge and the underarm to help make this more comfortable than the original.
Another change was for design only – to split the upper cup. The lower half of the upper cup is stretch satin and sheer cup lining. The upper half of the upper cup is sheer cup lining alone, then finished with fold-over elastic.
Lastly, I extended the strap as per Beverly’s instructions in this blog post.
Below you can see I only pulled on the elastic in the underarm area where it’s usually pulled. I marked on the strap extension where the power bar ended and the extension began and made sure not to pull the elastic beyond that point.
Here’s the side view:
Do you see those puckers where I gathered the cup to fit into the cradle? I don’t like that! Those puckers aren’t so noticeable when I’ve used duoplex. That made me sad.
Here’s the back:
Oh, the back looks perfect! The red power net really matches the stretch satin well. I debated using the satin for the band too, but had some red power net in my stash, so went with that.
What I Love
I’ve shared with you what I don’t like (those puckers). However, when it’s on me the cup is more filled out than on the display. (I still don’t like them.)
So now, how about something I love about this bra? I love the upper cup!
I love this sheer cup lining detail. It turned out better than I had hoped.
I did make a second pair of panties to go with this bra. I’ll share those next week.
Happy creating!

Margreet took us through the steps of designing a bra, and part of that was testing the cups in a frame. You can read about it 

It wasn’t pretty, but it was completely functional for its purpose – to see if these cups would fit. And they did.
Here’s my favorite part of them – the side view.
Here they are from the back. It’s so pretty how the lace wraps around to the back.
The pattern is adorable. But, sadly, I’m not as in love with my version as I’d hoped.
The first one illustration looks quite minimal. The second one looks pretty balanced. The third one just has too much going on. What I like about these is they show me I can add the lace trim to the waist and leg openings and still maintain the design I’m wanting.
In the first photo the shorts are pinned. In the second photo they’re unpinned. I definitely have more going on in the hip and thigh than this display!
Again, pinned and unpinned.
I LOVE lilac! I don’t know why I haven’t had a lilac bra and panty set before.
Below, on this side view, you can just begin to get a peek of the back. This is the combo panty I mentioned earlier. It looks like a brief from the front, but a boyshort from the back.
Here’s the full back view of the bra and panty.
I am so happy with these lovely sets and am looking forward to the next BMS Challenge.
I am so happy. This fits perfectly, and I love the color!
Even though I’m drafting the pattern so there shouldn’t be any difference between the cups and cradle, I still find I’m having a tiny bit of a length difference. A quick little gathering stitch running along the bottom of the cup, and it fits in just fine. Also, there are no wrinkles on me, but a few on Catherine.
When I was taking the photos for this, I noticed I missed catching the very bottom edge of the strap elastic under the eyes. I’ll have to take that back to the machine and tack it down.
The Gothic arch looks wonky here, but that’s just on Catherine. I tried to get it to lay flat, but it just wouldn’t.




While sewing the cups, and then top-stitching them, my machine decided to eat my material and made a big knot! As I gently tried to unpick the knot… I made a hole. 



Once I had the band shortened, it was perfect. I’ve worn this for full days, and it’s very comfortable.
I bought the material for it; a gorgeous cotton/silk blend, and this lacy material I thought went well with it. I received the High Neck Camisole pattern from one of our wonderful sponsors, Lingerie Secrets.
The lace is a cotton lace too. I like this so much better than the original material I bought for this.


You can get the finding kits for bralettes
This was all just bits of this and that I had in my stash. Despite that, I think it turned out quite lovely.
This is a really thin Lycra material. I still had some leftover after cutting this out, but it’s in a give-away bag now. Someone else might love it, but not me. Not anymore. Along with this, two other very similar Lycra materials are leaving my stash too.
Oh, it’s so pretty. The black and white is so classic.
There was a lot of switching thread for this bralette. I only made one little mistake on the first color change. I went over the seam by a couple of stitches.
Other than that, I was quite pleased with all my switching back and forth.
Seeing as I know this size fits her, I sewed the bow on already. I took advantage of the black and white color scheme to put a black bow on the front.
Here’s a little tip for keeping these bows in place while getting it all under the presser foot – use a little bit of double-sided tape. You hardly need any, and it will wash away in the laundry, but it keeps it right where you want it until you sew it in place.
The most fun I have sewing for Em is hearing the exclamations coming from the other room when she’s trying something on: “It’s so cute!” I just don’t yell like that over any of my makes for myself. I might have a little more sewjo if I did.
I love this polka dot material.

There were only a couple of changes I still wanted to make to this. I wanted to add a bit to the underarm area for more coverage there – just a half-inch. I wanted to round the cups a touch at the apex. And I wanted to lower the bridge a half-inch as well.


Happy creating!