Sewing

A New Water Bottle Cover

~ Michelle

I was given a water bottle, rather a while ago now. And the cover just wasn’t me. Then in one of my travels, I came across a lovely cashmere sweater that wasn’t going to fit me, but I couldn’t leave it behind.

I was going to use that sweater to make a new water bottle cover.

This project has been in my UFO pile for a while now. It was time.    I laid the old water water cover over the sweater and did a rough cut out giving myself about an inch on each side. I tried a few things to mark where I wanted to sew, but nothing was showing up very well. So, I pinned where I wanted to sew and followed the pins around the new cover. A straight stitch for the seam, and a zigzag to make sure it didn’t unravel. It turned out quite well.  Isn’t that cute? And it’s so soft!    Here is is with the water bottle inside of it. It’s all ready for the next time I need to use it.

Happy creating!

New Year, New House, New Sewing Room

~ Michelle

We moved mid-December, so I had a big sewing blitz in late October and early November knowing everything was going to get packed up.

Fortunately, the previous owner of our new the house moved out a week before we were to move in. That gave me to time to do some cleaning, sorting, and unpacking in the new house. After the kitchen, my sewing room was my top priority. It was mostly set up days after our move.

I’ll warn you. I’m not all unpacked and sorted yet. But I was able to sew. (smile)   First off is my Singer treadle machine, rather laden down with things still needing to be sorted. Next to that is my Rocketeer. Then piled beside those are a bunch of books that are still unpacked, some storage, and then my cutting table. You can see the fabric left over from my latest project.

My sewing table butts up against my cutting table making a U-shaped work area.Behind the sewing/work area are my storage rack, a small sewing table, and a storage cupboard.   Beside the storage cupboard is my yet-to-be-packed bookcase.

Lastly, I have two closet doors, but the closet space runs the full length of the wall between the doors. It’s wonderful to have all that space!I still need to do some organizing, but at least I’m set up enough to do some sewing.

Happy New Year, and happy creating!

Sewing Plans

~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

I have a few projects sitting on my cutting table this week, but nothing that will be done in time to post on Saturday. So I thought I’d share a few of my plans with you.I saw this top online and loved it at first look. What I don’t love about it is it’s not natural fibers. I prefer that, so I thought, I can make my own version of this lovely top. If you love it too, there’s a link in the photo. (no affiliation)

I was thinking the Halla Agnes Swing Top would be perfect for the shape.

Use the sleeve option, add the color blocking and seam allowances. It wouldn’t be a hard adjustment to make.

So that’s one plan.

Another is the lovely new Cambia bra pattern.I first saw this bra during the Great Bra Sewing Bee, and simply fell in love. If you haven’t seen it done up, go and have a look. It’s gorgeous! 

I bought the pattern as soon as it came out. This will be one of the next patterns I try. I may try the Lamina or Labellum from Lilypa first so I know how her sizing fits me.

I’ll be back next week with some wonderful new makes to share.

Happy creating!

Bra Fitting 101 Retreat

~ Michelle

At the end of April I took the Bra Fitting 101 Retreat at Central Sewing. Our instructor was Jeanette of Sew Uplifting Custom Bras.

Day One started with another gift bag for each of the students. Let me show you the goodies we got.There was a Fitting binder, and a bra and finding kit in my bag (not shown). As well as the great canvas tote. For students who hadn’t taken the Drafting course, they got a few more goodies like sample packs of Duoplex and Power Net, as well as a set of Pin-Up Girls patterns. I had all those already.

We also were given sheets of these little tiny bra parts that we’d be using over the next few days. We spent the morning cutting these out.On Day Two we were starting to learn what changes to make for different alterations – all using those little tiny bra pattern pieces. It was really great to have these, and to have them to keep as a reference.You can see here in this example, it wasn’t a complicated adjustment – just lengthening the band. Having the samples makes it much neater to look and see any of the adjustments – much better than me freehand drawing these examples.

On Days Three and Four we started to work with live models – who turned out to be the other students in the class. We fitted one another with wires, and with Jeanette’s fitting bras – all under the guidance of Jeanette.

I can tell you, I need more experience with both assessing wire sizes and cup sizes. I wasn’t way off. None of us were way off. But we weren’t able to look at someone and just know the size either. Jeanette made it look easy.

While each woman was in a fitting bra, we went through a check list of possible fitting issues. From basics like is that the right size cup, does the band fit, are the straps too long or short, to all the more detailed adjustments.

That takes us to Day Five.

On Day Five, Jeanette assigned each of us to make a bra for another student. But it was all hush-hush. We knew whose bra we were making, but not who was making one for us.

We all had a checklist, and traced off a bra pattern in the correct size. Then we made the alterations to that pattern based on what we’d seen in the fitting bras and what was on the check list.

Day Five was quiet and intense. We were all feverishly sewing trying to get our bras finished. I just made it.

One of the store clerks came to remind us we had to be packed up and out of the store in 20 minutes and I was still sewing! But I was at the hooks and eyes, so I finished those, gave the bra to my fellow student to try on, and saw what further adjustments she would need. I was close, but it wasn’t perfect. I quickly altered her pattern with a little more help from Jeanette, and gave my fellow student her bra and a newly re-adjusted pattern.

Then I managed to pack up just in time to make the store closing deadline.

Whew!

Are you wondering what the bra I made looked like? Well, I didn’t have time to take a single photo. I got home and my hubby said show me the bra you made, and I couldn’t even show him.

I can show you the bra I had made for me. And I can tell you it needs a few adjustments too.Overall, I have to say it was a great class, and gave us all some fabulous tools to take and use going forward.

Happy fitting and creating!

Back to Basics – BMS February Challenge

~ Michelle

The February Challenge for Bra-Makers Supply is “Building on Basics – One of the keys to great bra-making is a solid skill foundation. This February, we challenge you to share with us techniques you have found to make your bra sewing easier, faster or more professional looking. We’ll be sharing tutorials on the basics of intimate apparel sewing. Think of this month as the underpinnings of your underthings.“

I have two ideas to share with you this month for the challenge. Both fall under the category of techniques. As well, both concern sewing on the channeling.

Tip One

My first tip is to use a little bit of Wonder Tape.I was first introduced to this marvelous tape through bag-making. It’s really great for holding a zipper in place for sewing, but I’ve found it to be wonderful in bra-making too.

I use it to hold the channeling in place at the top of the cup – whether at the underarm, or at the bridge. It’s a small thing, but I found the channeling would move a bit on me, and I didn’t want it to move. Pins were too awkward to use with the channeling. At one point when I was making a handbag, I thought to use the wash-away tape to hold the channeling. I have to say it works really well.

I snip off a little more than a 1/4″ of the tape, stick it to the duoplex, peel off the backing, and press the channeling in place with my fingers. Voila! It holds the channeling for me so I can start to sew without the channeling moving on me at all. Here it is with the backing on it still.And below no pins are needed to hold the channeling in place. The channeling will stay. It’s a little thing, but it really does help.  Did you notice on the package it says ‘wash-away’? That’s right. I can leave it right there after I sew on the channeling, and it will wash away in the laundry. It doesn’t get much better than that.

Tip Two

My second tip has to do with how I sew on the channeling. One of the things to watch when sewing on channeling is you don’t leave too small an opening for the wires. I wasn’t having a problem with this, but am always looking for neater, better, easier results.

I was using my Stitch-in-the-ditch foot to do some top-stitching and thought to use the same foot to sew on my channeling.  I use the guide on the foot to guide me along the curve of the channeling. I can sew nice and close to the edge of the channeling. And I don’t have to worry about not enough room for the wires.

Here is my foot all lined up with my wash-away-tape-held channeling.I move my needle to be where I want it and away I sew. This gives a nice, neat, close-to-the-edge finish to the channeling.

And of course, you can use it on both sides of the channeling to get that same neat finish. I hope these little tips are helpful.

Happy creating!

B,Wear Mystery Box

~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

I pretty much love all things bra-making. I love patterns, laces and materials, and even elastics. So, when I first read about B,Wear’s Mystery Box subscription, I knew I wanted to try it. However, finances don’t always let me do what I want, when I want. Sometimes I have to wait. Sometimes it just doesn’t happen.

Fortunately for me, Christmas came and I got a subscription as a gift.

The Mystery Box

I’m pretty sure I’m not alone in getting excited when bra-making supplies arrive in the mail. Whether it’s that one item I need to complete a project, or a brand new kit. I get excited.

Well, this box really just adds to that excitement! Look at that label. I bet it’s even intriguing for the mail carriers who are delivering it. Just what is in that Mystery Box?   What fun! I couldn’t wait to open it.

The inside was just as fun as the outside.Once the outer box is opened, it’s still a mystery as it’s wrapped up in tissue paper and sealed with a foil heart. I loved this. It’s a lovely presentation. And it only got better for me.

What’s Inside?

What was inside was a treat for me. The January Mystery Box was all about making panties.Doesn’t that all look pretty? Let’s unpack and take a closer look at just what was in the box.And if you’re not sure what one of the items is exactly, there’s a note outlining everything.This is perfect for me. I love cotton panties! I can’t wait to sew this up. But do you see the bottom of the note? There’s one more item included in the Mystery Box – a new pattern.

Tippi Classic Window Brief

  The Tippi pattern is designed by Laurie Van Jonsson – the same person who released How to Grade a Bra and Brief this past year.I haven’t tried any of her patterns yet, so this will be a fun new experience for me. The Tippi is described on her website as:

‘This brief sits low and has all the detail in the back.’

That does sound interesting. However, before I sew this pattern, and have fun with this Mystery Box, I’ll be back to sewing my Fitting Bras. I’m on my fourth bras for the month, so far.

Happy creating!

House Morrighan Clover Boybrief

~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

There was one more House Morrighan pattern being tested before the  holiday season began: The Clover Boybrief pattern. This pattern has some similar features to the Ivy Brief (also by House Morrighan). It includes patterns pieces for the bands for both the waist and the legs. I love that. For some, it’s a very little thing but I like that the bands are included.

The pattern also offers a few different ways of making the briefs. You can use bands to finish the legs and waist or you can use elastic to finish them. You can make a boyshort style, or a brief style. And you can have a contoured waist. I’m interested in that contoured waist. Don’t you love all these options? I do. Also, I really like the shape of these. For boyshorts, these actually work for me. There is some curve built in.

Clover Boybrief

 Here is my first test of the Clover Boybrief. This is the high brief with boy legs. This one was to check the sizing. And the sizing was spot on. I made these up from some cotton Lycra I had in my stash. I also tested the pattern for Em in CL.

Em’s Clovers

  Here are the Clover Boybriefs I tested for Em. These are also in a cotton Lycra, but instead of matching bands, I used a contrasting color.I really liked this pattern and knew I’d want to make more for myself. Em also requested more. So this style is a hit with both of us. It was time to have some fun with the pattern.

Matching Set

I hadn’t made any panties to match my new Ruby bra, so decided I liked the Clover Boybriefs so much that I’d use the pattern to make my matching set.Here’s my Ruby bra. The same lace I used for this bra, and a previous Angie bra, was now being used to make the Clover Boybriefs.

I cut out two pair of panties, both with color-blocking, but I was only able to finish one pair. Gift sewing took over all other sewing.

Here are my new Clovers Boybriefs, with contour band and brief legs:I’ve used black and black cherry cotton Lycra for these, and rather than bands or elastic as the pattern calls for, I’m using black lace trim. I’m loving these panties!

Here’s my new Clover & Ruby set:Here they are from the back. Oh, this is a lovely set. I need to hurry up and get all my gifts sewn up so I can finish a second pair for me, and for Em.

The Clover pattern is on sale today for 20% off! You can find it here.

Happy creating & Merry Christmas!

Design and Draft Course

~ Michelle

This past week I took the Bra Design & Draft course at Central Sewing Machines. I’ve wanted to take a bra drafting course for a few years now. With the course finally coming closer to home, I could do it.It was a pleasant surprise to find I knew the other students. We’d all taken either the Beginner Bra-making class or Shelley class at Central last year. And of course, we’d all taken those classes with Jeanette of Sew Uplifting Bras too. It was like a class reunion.

The first day was very exciting. We were all presented with a bag full of goodies. Now, others may not have been so thrilled with the goodies, but for a bunch of bra-makers, it was a thrill! Just take a look.This is the manual we were given. It has the complete Drafting course in it, as well as a bunch of other great resources.
We also got a full set of Long wires, and a complete set of Classic patterns (all the sizes). There were sample packs of duoplex and power net, a notebook, a binder (shown above), a set of curves, and a bra kit with findings. All in a great bag. I’m pretty sure that was the best swag bag ever.

Fabrics

The first day we learned about all different fabrics that can be used in bra-making or lingerie. Some of them were familiar to me, some were new. We were given samples too, with instructions on how they were best used, and not to be used. It’s all neatly contained in our new binder. One of the students is in a Fashion & Design course, and she said she’d learned more that day than she had in her Textiles class. It really was very useful. By the end of the first day, we’d all been measured and learned how to measure someone else by measuring one another – all under Jeanette’s instruction. We were almost ready for Day Two, but before that, we had homework to do.

Drafting

Day Two was the beginning of a lot of paper and pencil work. We were guided in the art of drafting. We started with our frames. I did something wrong. Jeanette told me what I did wrong, but I was tired and didn’t correct it right away. Let me tell you, all it takes is one little mistake to throw everything off. By the end of the day, we were sent home with homework again. This time we were to practice our drafting. We drafted frames for everyone in the class. Day Three built upon Day Two. We were starting our lower cup draft. Well, we needed our frame to be done correctly at this point, and the one I had with me in the class still wasn’t corrected. Things weren’t fitting together. Again, Jeanette pointed out what I’d done wrong on my frame. I was back to the drawing board. Literally. I’d had a little more practice drawing frames by Day Three after Day Two’s homework, so it went much more quickly. I was on track in no time. We finished the day with a draft of our lower cup, our upper cup, and lots of information on how to do adjustments if needed.

Day Four was similar to Day Three – still more paper, pencils, drafting, and information. Some of us even cut out our newly drafted patterns, and got in some sewing before the end of the day. One woman was almost finished her drafted bra on Day Four. I had my cups finished. I brought them home and put them in my fitting bra frame. I was thinking this would save me the time of completing the whole bra to see how close I was. There was one small little change I needed to make to my draft. That was incredibly encouraging.Something I’ve heard and read repeatedly is: To get accurate measurements you have to start with a well-fitting bra. It’s so true. Jeanette brought fitting bras with her, so we all started with a well-fitting bra to get our measurements. And it works!

Day Five was mostly a sewing day for me. But before I could sew, I had to re-draft my upper and lower cups with that one little change. I worked as quickly as I could so I could get to the sewing. I really wanted to be done by the end of the day. Thinking back, I could have just changed my pattern, but it was a drafting class, and I was getting a LOT of experience with drafting.

The great news is I did it. I finished the Bra Design & Draft course and came away with a perfectly fitting pattern and bra – that I drafted from measurements.On my drafted bra here, I added a couple of features just because I could. I gave this bra a Gothic arch, and a thinned band under the cups. This draft is for a Horizontal seam. This seaming is the basis for the ‘Heather’ bra. The Heather bra is actually a Wacoal bra. It’s the Retro Chic Full Figure Underwire Bra.

You can see this has a horizontal seam going across the cup. It’s so pretty. I’m already planning another ‘Heather’ using my new pattern. If you have the Craftsy Class Sewing Bras Foam, Lace & Beyond, Beverly shares how to make the Heather bra.

It was a great week. I can’t wait for the next course!

Happy creating!

BMS Challenge – November

~ Michelle

I originally wasn’t going to make the November BMS Challenge – Support Your Man. Men need support too. Show them some love this November by making men’s underwear and see how creative you can get.My son loves his SAXX, and said he preferred them over the Michael Men’s Underwear pattern. He said he did wear the ones I gave him, but would prefer I bought him the real ones.

So. I wasn’t planning on sewing him any briefs this year. However, I read a comment (somewhere I can’t find now) regarding the Men’s underwear pattern. It was saying you could either do the front opening on the underwear OR the sling, but not both.

Right away I was thinking, ‘That’s not right.” I knew you could do both because my son has a pair that has both the front opening and the sling! I had him send me a picture of the front and inside. Let me just say, I’m a brave woman. That pair of SAXX is over four-years-old! He sent the pictures, and that underwear looked like it was over four-years-old.

However, it helped me see what I wanted to see.

Michael Underwear

Here are the Michael Men’s Underwear with a sling and front opening. I’ve lightened this photo to show the detail a little better.These are a basic black cotton Lycra. And you can see the front opening.

Here they are from the inside.The sling is a light blue. I chose that so it would show up better in these photos, and so it wouldn’t be a headache to sew black on black, on black, with black thread.

The key to making these underwear with a sling and front opening is that front piece. The pattern says to cut one. However, as you can see below, I’m not using just one piece – I’m using two pieces.I altered the front pattern to be a front-opening panel. You can read how to do that here on BMS’s blog. And I cut two front panels.  Then one piece is flipped so it becomes a mirror of the other. The two pieces are basted together, making sure there’s an opening on each side, and on opposite sides. Then they can be used as one piece. After basting them, I add the sling just as I would normally add it according to the pattern.

Here are my son’s Michael’s from the side.And here they are from the back. (Again, lightened. The seams just wouldn’t show otherwise.) My son also let me know when I made him his last pair of Michael’s that he didn’t like the band. He found the elastic too firm for his liking. Now to be fair, he’s a personal fitness trainer, so probably doing a little more movement while wearing his. So this time instead of elastic, I simply made a band out of the same cotton Lycra.I’m sure he’ll find this more comfortable.

One last image.   Here are the Michael underwear showing the front and mirrored inside front openings both opened showing the blue sling behind them.

I hope my son likes these ones better than the last ones I made him.

Happy creating!

Another Knob

~ Michelle

Do you know what a knob is? I use one in my bra-making all the time.

A Knob

I’ve been using a knob for a few years now – almost since I started sewing bras. It’s a wooden ball, elevated, and on a base. It’s a great, very specialized, pressing tool for bra-making. I got this one from Bra-Makers Supply. You can find them here.

I love mine, but do have one little problem with it. It’s little. Well, it’s littler than me. I find when I’m using it, I’m only ironing about a two-inch part of the seam at a time, and my seams are all a fair amount longer than two-inches.

I’ve wanted a larger one for a long time. I knew they were available at one time. Here’s an old photo, from Bra-Makers Supply’s site. I had kept it for inspiration.This was from the old store location, and it showed one of the walls. Do you see down there on the left?

Here. Let me show you what I’m looking at.Knobs! And they came in different sizes! Larger sizes! Unfortunately, Beverly said she was no longer able to get the other sizes. So, I have been looking for a wooden finial to make a larger knob since I saw this photo.

Options

  I’ve searched all the home building stores for something that would work. And I’ve searched online as well. I did find a few options, but they were just too expensive when the shipping was added.

Here. Let me share with you a few of the options I found.I found this on eBay. It’s a wooden ball with a flat bottom. I’m sure it would have been great, but the $65 shipping was way too much for me.

I kept looking.

Next I found this finial.I found this on Mr. Spindle. I called their 1-800 number thinking a knob the right size was finally going to be within a reasonable amount, and then I was told the shipping. The shipping wasn’t much less than what the eBay shop was charging. I started to think of giving up the search again.

I have to say, I shared my whole story with the receptionist at Mr. Spindle. What I was going to use it for, how I’d been searching for a few years now and not finding anything, or finding something and the shipping being too expensive. Then the receptionist said to just wait a minute. She came back on the line and had the shipping down to $20. She did warn me there might be customs on it when it arrived. I bought it.

More good news – there were no extra charges when my order arrived.

My New Knob

Lastly, let me show you the difference between the two knobs and just why I’m so excited about this.My first thought is, ‘That looks huge!’ However, when sewing the cup seams together, they’re still relatively flat. A larger pressing surface is going to be great!

To give a better perspective, here’s the smaller knob with the first too-small Angie cup over it.The cup dwarfs the knob.

And here’s that same Angie cup on the new knob. The knob fills a lot more of the cup. What a difference this will make!

I’ve asked my hubby to help me make the base. We’ve found a post cap that worked. I’m not sure exactly how he attached it, but it works perfectly!

Here’s my completed knob. I have to tell you, it works wonderfully! I was using it on my most recent bra – Ruby II. I love this!

Happy creating!