Basic Beige

A couple of great sewing friends contacted me. We’d all taken classes with Jeanette of Sew Uplifting, but we were all feeling a lack of motivation. We decided to get together over Zoom, and agree to some accountability – we’d all make something by the end of April.

I shared I was just weary, and didn’t want to keep working on my draft right now. I don’t want to give up on it, but I wanted to sew again. So I said I’d sew a bra.

I need a basic beige bra in my wardrobe, so that’s what I made.This is my drafted frame and the cups from B, Wear’s Angie pattern.

This bra is using my new wire style and size, and unfortunately, although that seems to be fitting better, I now need to go up a size in the cups.

The Omega shape is causing problems again. 

I’m using a size smaller wire, so I had to lower both the front and the sides of the cups to get it to fit in the frame. This is also a narrower frame – to fit the wire. Once I put the bra on, I could see I really need a power bar to pull in everything on the side.

Something I really like about the Angie pattern is how rounded the cups are. They give such a nice shape when wearing the bra too. However, using the smaller wire size and narrower frame, the rounder shape didn’t seem to be fitting into my frame as well.

   The back is fine. The band is too. It was comfortable, and stayed in place. However, I’m very disappointed this is not wearable.

I’m off to work on getting my next bra to fit.

Happy creating!

Some Good News

Hello!

Sorry I’ve been quiet for over a month. Spring is coming, the weather is warming up, it’s sunny most days. I’m feeling more motivated to be creative again.

Something I have been doing is knitting. I’ve been enjoying the slow pace of it. I’ve been finishing the Annie’s Knit Kit. I’m done all the squares now, and have started blocking them. Here’s the square I’m blocking right now. It rolls under, and it isn’t actually square.After it’s all pinned it’s square. Then I spray it really well with water and leave it to dry. I really am enjoying this. It’s wonderful to unpin each square and see how nice it looks.

I had some good news this week. My Instagram account is back! My photos are all there. I’m so happy. I didn’t want to try to find all my old photos and upload them again.

I’ll be back in a couple of weeks with more makes. I’ve decided to let the drafting rest for a bit. I miss actual sewing, so it’s time to make a few lovelies again. 

Happy creating! 

Drafting Adjustments

I’ve been working on my Bare Essentials Draft take two and it’s coming along.

The first one fit pretty well, but the cups needed to be deeper than the average which is recommended for a first try. I also need to work on my bridge some more. For my first draft, I knew to widen the lower part of my bridge. However, when I’d made the bra, I posted a comment in the Bare Essentials support group that no mater what bra I’d ever made, it slides down a bit after I wear it. I’ve worked on my wires, and changed those. I’ve adjusted patterns, and drafted my own. Yet still, I was dealing with this.

Someone in the group responded that although they could see I’d widened my bridge already, she suggested to use sheer cup lining for the cups to see if I needed to make more of a change there. She said she did that and could see she still needed to widen the lower bridge.

So, that’s my next step.Using the sheer cup lining really helped. I needed to add another 1/4″ to the bottom of the bridge. For the first time, my wires stayed just where they were supposed to stay.

However, there’s some real East-West action happening here. I’m going to need to do an apex adjustment.I also made a mistake when finishing the upper cup. I’ve corrected this on the paper pattern.

Next I plan to do this all over again to make sure I’m really grasping this drafting method. Then I’ll start playing with the sloper to made different designs.   

I also wanted to mention my Instagram account is almost empty. All my photos are gone except just a few family ones. I have no idea why all my photos are gone either. Whatever the reason, it’s pretty empty. 

I can’t get into it either, so I have set up another account and linked to my blog. I will add content again. Just not right now. For now, I’m going back to drafting.

Happy creating!

A New Discovery

I’m following along with the Drafting course on the Porcelynne website, and I’m learning new tricks and tips.

The first one I want to share with you is something you’ve probably heard about: A flexible ruler.I’ll be honest. I bought one of these after reading it would help to do a root trace. It didn’t help me with that at all. Not one little bit. At least it didn’t help me at all.

However, watching the course I saw a brilliant use for it! Use it to measure along the curve of the wire line. Really brilliant!

I just curve the ruler along the curve of my circle and mark where I need to mark. It’s so much easier than bending a flexible ruler, trying to hold it with one hand, and then mark with the other.

I will no longer view this as a useless item I picked up. This is really great!

Happy creating!

My First Bare Essentials Draft

I completed my first Bare Essentials draft. In fact, I completed two of them – one for a regular wire, and one for a ‘demi’ wire.

The Orange wire isn’t actually a demi wire, but it’s a little bit lower in the front. When I combine the wire shape, the wire size I need, and being an Omega shape, it made sense to try the demi draft. 

 I have to say, the Bare Essentials drafting process is still something I’m learning. I won’t say I have it down pat just yet, but I’m making progress.This past week I drew up my draft. It actually looks like bra cup pattern pieces, so I thought I’d be close. 

I sewed together a very quick tester bra. I told my husband it was the ugliest bra I’ve ever sewn. He said he couldn’t believe I would make anything ugly. This isn’t designed to be pretty. It’s designed to determine if you have the correct volume before you move on in the process.I wasn’t exaggerating when I said it wasn’t pretty! It’s not.From the straps being pinned on, thread ends not cut, everything just sewn enough to hold it together to try on once, it has served its purpose. Even the strap elastic is only tacked down quickly to work for that single fitting.   

As terrible as it looks, it worked. I have the correct volume to move onto the next stage, which will be to take this draft pattern, and begin to alter it to the shape I want.

However, I think I’ll redo the draft another time or two to make sure I have this well figured out before I move on.

Happy creating!

Drafting Again

Just a short little post today. I’m also posting a little earlier than my usual Saturday posting. 

I’ve been working on bra drafting again. This past month, there was a live draft-along on Facebook. It was for the Bare Essentials drafting method, so I signed up.

Now, if you’re interested in the drafting course, or any other Bare Essentials course, they’re on sale this week. The sale ends Sunday, so I thought I’d post early just in case someone was interested in getting in on the sale. (I have no affiliation with the sale.) 

I didn’t draft along. I was still trying to get my head around this way of drafting. It’s quite different from the Beverly Johnson method, which was the method I knew, and have used. So after a week of watching along, I knew I still needed help. Both instructors were offering one-on-one sessions. I signed up with both of them, and I’m really glad I did. They both come at the process differently, and I think things are finally starting to click.

The one instructor, Jane, has come up with an online calculator you can purchase, which does all the calculations for you. It’s wonderful!  I can’t even begin to say how helpful this is. Every mathematical measurement is given here for your draft. You put in your measurements and it does it automatically. You just have to refer back to your numbers to do your draft. It’s very helpful.

I have a pattern, and tester band to try out. I’ll let you know how things go.

Happy creating!

A Very Different Jessica

2021 had barely begun, and I sewed up a bra. I have to tell you, that felt really good. After a pretty sad 2019, and 2020 just added more to the burden, it felt really good to start 2021 off with some sewing.

A few months ago, I read a post on Facebook about a Jessica bra sewn from cotton jersey. This intrigued me. I read the post, and all of the comments, and then even contacted the woman who’d sewn the bra and chatted too.

She made the bra because she deals with pain. Well, I can relate to that. I deal with pain as well. So, that post, and her lovely jersey bra stayed in my thoughts.

I decided I was going to try to do the same thing. Sew up a bra from nice soft jersey and see how it fit, and how comfortable it would be.It’s so lovely! It’s also so very comfortable. Everything about this bra is the same as a ‘normal’ bra – channeling, underwire, but it’s all soft cotton jersey.To account for the stretchiness of the jersey, the original sewer went down a full size to make her jersey bra. I did the same, and it fits very well. I do need to make a couple of adjustments for my Omega shape, but other than that, this is a very good fit.  There isn’t anything different about the back except I used jersey again. The whole bra is jersey except for the elastics, and the underwire and wires. As well, to keep this very soft and comfortable, I did not stabilize the frame.

I’m sure there are those wondering if this have any support. No. It’s not a supportive bra. It’s better than wearing nothing, but there is minimal lift or shaping. However, we’re all in a lockdown, and this is the most comfortable bra I’ve ever worn! I will be making more of these.

Happy creating!

One More Angie

I’m finishing the year with one more Angie bra. The bra I made for my friend fit her really well, but she needed a little more room along the upper cup.

So with a few small changes to the pattern, I made her another Angie. I pulled out Catherine (my dress form) for this Angie. She’s a little wider through the back than my white dress form. So I thought the bra would fit better around. And it does.

I also decided to add fabric straps to this Angie. I wanted to see how they’d work, and they seem to work fine.

Here’s the side view. My friend is an Omega shape as well, but you can’t tell by how the cups fit in. I do love that!There isn’t anything different about the back except I did the two stitches to attach the strap elastic again. I do like it better. I hope this Angie fits perfectly.

Do you have any sewing goals for 2021? I plan to work on my drafting some more, sew a quilt, and learn to use my treadle sewing machine. I’m sure bras will be in there too.

Happy creating & Happy New Year!    

A Lovely Christmas Apron

We’re all in a lockdown here, so we can’t celebrate Christmas this year like we have in years past. We can’t have family over, and I won’t be making a big Christmas dinner. However, I did do one thing to cheer myself up a bit. 

A few years ago I sewed up a few aprons – one for Em, one for her mom, one for a dear cousin, one for another friend. And for some reason, I don’t have a photo of a single one of them. So, I’ll share my most recent make, and some photos with links to the one I kept.

I’ve used cotton apron panels for these. and they’re pretty, functional, and very easy.  

Mine are changed a little in that I make mine double-sided. I love a double-sided apron. They can be reversible, but I only put a pocket on the front.

Here’s my Christmas apron.This is a Northcott panel called Angels Above. As soon as I saw it, I really just had to have it. 

This panel didn’t have a pocket, so I cut out two angels, and made a double-sided pocket. I like a finished pocket too, rather than it being unfinished on the inside.The pocket is the same coordinating fabric I used for the back of the apron.

Here’s the back, or reverse side of the apron. Oh, that’s pretty. I’m very pleased with my new Christmas apron.

My favorite apron panel that I made for myself is this one.

Oh, I love my very-well-worn one too. As much as my new one. If you love it it too, there’s a link in the photo.

I used this coordinating fabric to do the reverse on my apron. But if you search for Willington Prints – Della Terra, you’ll find a lot of other fun prints you could use for the back too.I hope every is safe and healthy! I’m looking forward to celebrating Christmas  in early (I hope) 2021! Happy holidays and happy creating!

A Custom Watson

I recently made a lovely Watson bra for a friend. She loves it but she also wanted a little more coverage. I showed her a photo of the longline style.Yes. A longline is what she wanted.

However, she also needed a little more coverage on the side. It was time to use some of those skills I learned in the professional classes I took. It was very exciting to know just how to change the pattern.

The bra turned out very well.Isn’t this pretty? I don’t usually wear white, but I really do like this.

Here’s the side view with the higher underarm and side. I can’t wait to see it on her. I know she’s going to be a lot happier with more coverage.

Happy creating!