Amy’s Sew Along

Pattern Preferences

~ Michelle ~ 10 Comments

I’ve had a number of people ask me which I prefer, the Sewy Rebecca or the Pin-Up Girls Shelley. The Rebecca was published before the Shelley. I had also sewn the Rebecca pattern a couple of times before the Shelley pattern even came out, so was used to that pattern before I even tried the Shelley.

In fact, it was the Rebecca pattern I made for the Sew-Along hosted by Amy of Cloth Habit. It was during that time – when the Sew-Along was happening – that news of the Shelley pattern came out. I loved the Pin-Up Girls Classic pattern, and have both of Beverly’s Bra-Making Manuals, so was excited about a new pattern from her.

Over the years, I’ve had people email me and ask me which bra I prefer. And honestly, I had a hard time deciding which bra I did prefer.

The Sewy Rebecca pattern consists of a three-part cup: the upper cup, lower cup and power bar. This photo of the Rebecca pattern is taken from the Sewy website.

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The Pin-Up Girls Shelley is a four-part cup consisting of the upper cup, split lower cup, and power bar. This photo of the Shelley pattern is from the Bra-Makers Supply website.

PB-3230%20Shelley

The two bras really are similar in design. One big difference is the Sewy Rebecca is fully lined inside the cup, and that really makes it look so professionally finished on the inside – something I love.

However, I’ve made a couple of Shelley bras now and lined them on the inside making them look as professionally finished as the Rebecca always does.

My most recent bra that I made was a Pink and Ivory Rebecca and while wearing it, I realized, for my shape I prefer… the Shelley.

So, what finally made me prefer one pattern over the other? Well,…

I have read many comments on blogs, bra-sewing forums, and personal emails to me where people have expressed their thoughts on another bra – the Marlborough by Orange Lingerie.

I know sewers who love this pattern. It’s their TNT pattern that they go to every time. I haven’t personally made up the Marlborough, so can’t say anything from personal experience. One of the reasons I haven’t made it up is I’ve heard it has a shallower fit. Another reason is I’m outside the bra’s  size range. I can play around with sister sizing and grading to get the right size for me, but hearing the bra fit more shallowly has been the one factor making me hesitate to try the bra. Although I must say, I’ve seen so many beautiful examples of the Marlborough sewn up and they all look lovely. I don’t think it’s the right pattern for me.

After wearing the Rebecca, I’ve realized there’s a shallowness to the fit of it as well. Although the two patterns, Rebecca and Shelley, are very similar, they don’t fit the same on me.

The Pin-Up Girls Shelley bra pattern gives me a nice shape and lift. The Rebecca pattern does not give me the same nice shape. Even though the patterns measure pretty much the same – the cross cup seam is the same length, and the bottom cup depth is the same, the upper cup is shallower on the Rebecca. I even added 1/4″ to it, but it still just didn’t give me the shaping I want.

Happy creating!

A Shout Out and a Few Accomplishments

~ Michelle

I’m one of those people who LOVES gifts. Just ask my dear hubby. Our first year married, he got confused because my birthday and a former long-time girlfriend both had our birthdays on the 15th – just different months. It was a lovely fall day, and he was heading into the room I was in with a card in hand and something behind his back. His Mum realized what he was doing, and stopped him. I had no problem with it at all. I just told him I wanted my gift. I didn’t care what the occasion was. I was good with the mix up – just hand over the gift. He made me wait. But that tells you a little of my personality there. I love gifts!

So, I want to say a big ‘Thank You’ to a couple of wonderful fellow bra-makers (whom I met on Amy’s Sew Along) who have sent me the loveliest gifts. Thank you Ginny and Naomi!

A while back, Ginny sent me these lovely laces and elastics.

Laces and elastics from Ginny

I’ve dipped into these elastics on more than one occasion. Elastics have become a valued item here. I hate using precious elastic on something that ends up not fitting! And I have plans for one of these laces on a bra I’ve got all cut out. But not the one I’m working on right now – I ran out of strap elastic for the cut out one.

Ginny also sent some adorable earrings she’d made – which didn’t make it into the shot here. You can see some of her hand-made creations here in her Etsy shop.

These are the laces I just got from Naomi. I love that beige. I’ve always been a beige or black girl. But there are too many laces out there that are so pretty to stick with that. Pretty colors, here I come!

Laces from Naomi

And a bunch of elastics, straps, upper cup elastic and more. Oh, that dark purple… such a beautiful color.

Elastics from Naomi

So a really big Thank You to both ladies.

And those accomplishments I mentioned? I finished my moulage AND my sloper. Both patterns are packaged away for the time being. I have to sew something now and I’ll pull the sloper out after I get my sewing fix.

moulage done

Here’s the final moulage. I found this great material in the clearance area and it worked better than the printed one I’d used previously. It is such a relief to be done this. Naomi sent me a great idea to transform my dress form using the moulage. Take a look at how Mary did it in her blog Cloning Couture. I’m definitely mulling this idea over. It’s a great idea!

And lastly, here’s an idea I got from Sigrid’s blog. And I looked and looked for this posting from her, and could not find it. Here’s what she said, “Pin (or baste) the cup over a well fitting bra, using the seam allowances for the pinning.”

Testing Bra Cup size

This is a new pattern for me. It’s Kwik Sew’s 3300, and I had to guess which size I was going to be. I did pretty well. This is a great starting point. I’ll have to change it from a partial band to a full band, but I can do that fairly easily knowing the basic cup pattern will fit so well.

Standard alteration to fit in smaller wires

This isn’t the easiest to see, but there’s a pin there at the bottom of the cup where there is excess material. That’s about a standard amount I need to take out to account for the smaller wires I need. So this is on it’s way to being pretty good already. Off to work on some pattern alterations now.

Happy Creating!