Fantasie to Reality

So, last week I told you how I was altering my cloned Fantasie bra. And now I’m going to tell you how I made it a reality.

I did have a few questions. One was how to adjust for the smaller wire. I thought back to my Craftsy moulage-sloper making class. One of the ways they measure is to turn the measuring tape on its side and follow the line of the pattern that way. I don’t find that the easiest — usually I’ve just moved the measuring tape along by about 1/2-inches. My friend, who also recently made a sloper, said in her class they had a flexible ruler they were using and you just bend it to fit the line. That sounds nice right about now. But what I have is my measuring tape, so that’s what I used.

First, I’ll show you my custom bridge and cradle.

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Here you can see the little bit of the cradle that comes up above the wire line – that’s the flat spot adjustment I make.

Now onto some measuring, and I measured everything!

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This photo shows the easier of the measurements I took. For the photo I had my scissors hold the top of the tape against the top of the wire. Then I carefully followed the curve of the wire without any gaps. Basically, I made a new cradle and compared that to the original cloned one. And I measured everything to see where the changes needed to be made.

To be sure, I double measured everything. And after that, I made up a mock cup and cradle and sewed them together. My main concern here was making sure the cup still fit smoothly into a now smaller cradle.

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And here it is. It all came together quite well. There was one really small adjustment I had to make in the cup, maybe 1/8-inch.

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You can see in the photo above the cup needed just a touch of an adjustment. So, it was all looking good, so onto the good materials. All my materials were from Bra Makers Supply.

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Here’s my Fantasie made a reality. The cups are a full cup, not the modified ones I’d been making. And the bridge is a full bridge. There are black foam cups behind the lace/duoplex cups to fill out the shape, but they are not part of the bra.

There were a couple of changes I made to the bridge.  I narrowed the bridge, because the original was too wide for me. On this one the two pieces of channeling for the wire overlap at the top. And the rest of the bridge is still my custom bridge.

Some of you might remember, I had attempted a Fantasie Vivienne before. The lace can be a bit confusing as to which way it goes on the upper cup. And the last time I attempted it, I got it wrong. As that bra was a clone and didn’t have any of the adjustments, I decided it didn’t fit well enough to bother fixing it and continuing. This time I got the lace in correctly. Whew. Another relief.

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Here you can see that narrow bridge. It’s just the right width for me, and thankfully just enough for the channeling to fit into as well.

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And here you can see where the lace ends before the strap tab. That was a little tricky, but I got it to look neat.

You might have noticed there are no bows on it yet. I want to follow the same style as the original bra. They used two very narrow ribbons of coordinating colors to make the ribbons and I want to find some black and pink and do the same.

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You can see here the beige and white ribbons together, as well, how much wider that bridge is at the top. This style of bow is such a pretty and unique feature, I’d like to add that too, so I’ll have to go shopping for some thinner ribbon than what I have.

And lastly, the back of the bra. Again, on this I simply cloned from the original.

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The only thing I didn’t do the same on this is the original is only two hooks and eyes, and I made this three.

So, does it fit? Perfectly? Almost. It looked great when I put it on, but after wearing it for a little bit, I noticed the bridge does not go all the way back. Almost perfect. My best to date.

I think the difference in fitting is the materials I used. I’ve mentioned before that a lot of RTW manufacturers don’t use duoplex, but rather something more stretchy. I used duoplex for the cups. This gives me more support, but likely took a little of the depth out of the cup too.

There’s another slightly different Fantasie on the horizon.

Happy Creating!

Another Clone Finished

There were just too many blog posts where I hadn’t finished the bra clone I started. So… I finished it!

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Here’s my Prima Donna Duchess clone. She turned out really nice. A few minor bumps on the road, but still very nice. I wore this bra on my recent mini-vacation to the mountains and I was very comfortable in it – more so than the original.

One of the things I did was make an ‘exact’ clone of the bra, right down to the wires. I used wires I’d had from an old Prima Donna. I’ve found most RTW bras have longer wires than what I use. They must be extra long, because I buy long wires. I don’t really prefer these longer ones, but didn’t want to do any alterations on this. The only thing still missing is sewing a little crystal & bow on the bridge.

One of the bumps I had was I didn’t have enough channeling in the kit I’d bought! This was a kit from I purchased before they closed. I was surprised there wasn’t enough, but was determined I’d get this done. I didn’t want to use any channeling from any of the other kits I have either, so I used a single bit I had left over from a past bra. I have BAGS of bits and it came in handy.

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Here’s the inside of one cup showing the beige channeling. This also shows the seam in the lining. I really like that extra seam for the support it adds to the lower cup.

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And here’s the black channeling. I didn’t have any beige bits! However, I decided this won’t bother me because I’m the only one who will see this – at least when I wearing it every day. Anyone reading this now knows my bra doesn’t have matching channeling!

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I did like this shiny Lycra that was part of the kit, but didn’t find it really strong, so I lined it with power net. I had a small piece of black (again) and used that. What I ended up with is a really nice supportive band. I like the double material. It feels very comfortable. And it’s not the first time I’ve used it. I did a few bras with Lycra and lined them so they were doubled. Very comfortable.

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Here you can see the black inside. The only draw-back to this, which I didn’t anticipate is it makes it a little less forgiving when wearing. The original fits snugly, and this fits a bit too snugly now. So I use an adapter so I have that extra set of eyes I need. If I make this again I’ll add 1/8 – 1/4″ to each side of the band to make up adding that second layer of material.

I would have loved to match the lace so it was perfectly symmetrical on both cups, but didn’t have enough for that. Maybe on a future bra.

And the straps were a bit different this time. One these straps I did the lower piece which is covering the edge of the band and ends up enclosed in the hooks & eyes. And then only a one strap piece above that. Previously I had used two pieces above that. It took a little while of looking at it to figure out what I needed to do. I had already sewn the bra straps to the front of the bra, so picked out the stitching. Then I made the strap starting at the back. I put on the slider, then after that was sewn, I ran it through the loop on the top of the band. Then it could be attached at the front. This was how it was done on the original, so I tried this and I think I prefer it. So the last things I sewed together were the straps to the front.

There. Whew. This clone is no longer sitting on my sewing desk waiting for me to finish it. What a relief!

Happy creating!