Bra-Makers Supply

I Tried a Custom Bridge Already

~ Michelle

I kept thinking about how to alter the bra pattern sitting on my desk so the bridge would fit and go right back to the chest wall. Last year I spoke with the staff at Bra Makers Supply, and they’d suggested I lower the bridge if it wasn’t going all the way back. That really helped. So that was one of the things I’d done on the custom bridge I made as well as a couple of other changes.

And some of the ideas I was thinking about to alter the bridge, like narrowing the top of the bridge but keeping it a normal width at the bottom, were the same alterations I’d done using Norma‘s book: Demystifying Bra Fitting And Construction. I had no desire to go back down that road again, trying to re-invent this, especially as all the changes I was thinking of were the same as before.

I decided to look at what I’d done last year when I made a custom bridge. I have a bag of bras I’ve made, and they are put into the bag when I’m not completely happy, or I deem them ‘unwearable’. It’s like the Bag of Bra Shame! I’ve kept them all so I can use parts like wires, rings & sliders , hooks & eyes again. So I dug out the bag, and pulled out the bra on which I’d done the custom bridge.

IMAGE_046

I didn’t even finish this completely. The channeling didn’t get sewn down. No little bows to cover up the seams at the straps. Poor little Ivory Shelley. When I made this, I was disappointed in not getting the fit just right (again), and I stuffed it into what seemed to be an ever-filling Bra Bag.

This morning I tried it on again, and there are a few minor adjustments to be made but it does fit pretty well. The bridge works just like it should. It goes all the way back. So I thought some more about what I didn’t like about this bra.

I decided to look at the wires. I originally had put in 38s, then 40s, (my original bra pattern changed shape a bit when I altered the bridge, and the original wires didn’t fit properly.) and although I’d been told I wasn’t likely a smaller wire size, I decided to try one. I had a couple of 38 Vertical wires, which correspond to a 36 wire. It worked out quite well that I hadn’t finished that channeling.

And… drum roll please. It fits! The wires aren’t too tight. I am amazed! In one little experiment, I may have taken care of all my fitting challenges I couldn’t figure out. I’ve had this little Ivory beauty on all day and it’s more comfortable than any of the $200 bras I own.

I am so excited! It’s drafting time again. Now with the bridge problem fixed and past adjustments to the patterns, I’m ready to make something that fits PERFECTLY!

Happy creating!

Still Looking for Perfection

~ Michelle

Well, I think the title says it all. However, I feel a little trapped in the try-try-again scenario, I know going back to RTW bras isn’t the answer either, especially knowing my cup & wire size do not match.

So what progress have I made in the last week or so? Well, remember my pretty bra  – the black Lycra with swirls and the flipping underwire? And I mean literally flipping; I’m not trying to cover up a swear word. I had a thought what I could do to make it wearable. I pulled out my underwire stash and compared the bra’s cradle to the different sizes – I knew 38 was too small, and 44 too large. I found one that fits quite well. It’s not perfect, but it is wearable – and still a closer fit than RTW.

Duh

So pretty and still wearable. Not perfect though!

And on the topic of underwires… I thought I found my perfect fit, but when I wore the couple of bras I’ve made with that size of wire, they’re doing what started all my alterations in the first place – causing a deep ridge under the bust. So, they’re either too big or too small. Since they’re not digging into me at all, I’m thinking too big. This really is another area of challenge for me.

This week I continued with my idea to use my Sewy Rebecca pattern and make a Classic Full Band bra pattern. I made the adjustments after making a tester, and here’s the result.

Bra Front

Isn’t that pretty? I love the fabric – so glad Lycra and I became friends again. Overall, it’s a pretty good fit. I’m still not getting the bridge all the way back to the chest wall. I’m starting to wonder if that’s going to be an elusive myth that I search for all my sewing days!

As a side note here, I did put a call in to Bra-Makers Supply and had a talk with Beverly about how I was not getting the bridge all the way back. She suggested I try a cup size up and band size down. I tried it and the band did fit better, but the cup was too big. Maybe I’m in between cup sizes. And still no bridge contact!

Bra Side

Anyway, I’m going to have to encourage myself a bit with the progress I have made. I do have a larger cup fitting into a smaller wire, and it is nice and neat looking. I do have a better band for me, and the straps aren’t falling off my shoulders – which they did in RTW too. So I am making some headway here.

Bra Back

I really like the black elastics with this material. But I can see one area here that I didn’t notice when I wore it – that gap under the arm at the side. Again, the problem is a difference in my shape and the mannequin’s. There is no gap when I wear the bra.

New Way to Attach Strap @ Back

And this is a great little way to attach the straps. I learned this when I had the private lesson a few weeks back. When attaching the upper elastic to the band, rather than run it down the strap curve, leave that until after the upper elastics are sewn on. Then use the bottom band elastic.

Pin the elastic on outside of the band covering the strap curve, attach a slider or ring here, fold it over and pin it so it doesn’t move on you, and sew it on. I really like this look – it’s a very neat look.

And if that wasn’t clear, let me know, and I’ll post pictures of next time.

Finally, the burning question of the week? Did this new pattern with a straighter upper cup give me a little more lift? I think it did. I also looked through my stash of patterns to see if I had a straighter upper cup in any of the other ones I have, and didn’t find one that was straighter.

Happy creating!

A Tester, A New Pattern, and Duh!

~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

Do you ever do something, and then wonder, What was I thinking?’ Well, I was either over-thinking or not thinking at all!

Here’s the lovely bra I made:

Duh

You saw a bit of this last week. It’s lovely, the fit is pretty good. I’m still not quite getting the bridge back to the chest wall (Grrrr!), but it’s almost wearable.

Almost. Did you notice that. I did wear it and here’s what my problem was: the underwire was flipping up at the front under the bust and twisting along the bottom of the bra! What? This was a completely new one for me. I had no idea what wasn’t working. And it made it a bit uncomfortable.

So a call to Bra-Makers Supply and a question for Beverly. It kind of felt like deja vu – her answer was similar to one from a long time ago in my journey – something was either too big or too small. Last time it was the wires, this time the cradle.

And yes, duh! The cradle was too big. I have no idea what I had been thinking but I did not use a 38 cradle – used a 44 and folded it to take away some of the width. I eye-balled it, but clearly not well enough. There was an inch in there that needed to come out. It should have been so simple – use a 38 cradle and make it the same length as the 44.

So, one bra that is in the pile to take apart and redo. I don’t love fixing my mistakes, so I have a pile of them and they wait for me. That bra is now in the pile. I’ll pin a note to it so I don’t forget why it’s there.

So, this week, I made a tester for my friend. Thankfully, she is an easier fit than me. Her cup and wire size match. That makes it a LOT easier. However, I did up a 30 F for her, and the band is too big and cup too small. I do know her wire size, so I can figure out where to go from here for her.

One thing she commented on, that I haven’t loved either – she wanted more lift in the cup. I understand that – I need all the help I can get.

So, off to the drawing board again. I know from the Bra-Makers manuals that the straighter the upper cup, the more lift the cup has. Hmmmm. I thought about the patterns I have with a really straight upper cup. But none of them are ‘classic’ patterns.

I used what I knew from making my own Shelley pattern from the Designer Bras By YOU! CD, and did it backwards.

I used my Sewy Rebecca upper cup and put it together with the powerbar from the pattern.

With Power Bar

Then I re-drew it.

New Classic Upper Cup

I added the strap tab, and gave the top a nice smooth curve rather than the straight edge for lace. On this one (which is reversed, sorry) I also took in the under arm.

Here’s the tester I did with my new pattern:

Brown Tester

It’s almost there. I tried this one before I did any adjustments just to see how it would fit. I found out I did need to take in the underarm in both the upper and lower cups, take in a bit of the length at the wire line, and add a bit to the bridge depth. So, I’ve adjusted my pattern, and I’m off to cut out my new pattern.

I do have another pattern that has an ever straighter upper cup, so I may do this same technique with that pattern this week too.

Happy creating!

Starting All Over Again?

~ Michelle

That’s how I felt – like I was starting all over again. And I wasn’t thrilled about it either.

I’ve been very close on every bra I’ve made, but I wanted better. I wanted perfect. You’ve all heard that before!

So, a few weeks ago I checked on the old Bra-Makers Supply web site to see if there was a teacher who lived close to me.

I found a teacher, and did a Google search to see if she had a class  happening near by. I found a class too! And it is happening just over an hour from where I live, and in only a month’s time. I felt like I had hit the jackpot!

I called the school where she teaches and asked them to have her contact me. She called me the next day, and after our talking for a bit, she said I didn’t need the beginner class and then offered to come to my home and give me a private lesson! I was ecstatic!

It only took a few weeks from that initial phone call until I had an official Bra-Makers’ teacher! And in my home!

So we spent all of Friday and Saturday together. She told me one thing I already knew – I was close, very close.

So, we worked together over two days and I think the best thing out of the whole weekend was finding an even better wire size for me.

Let me show you what I mean:

38 - 44 Regular Wires

Here is the wire I’ve been using compared with the wire that usually fits my cup size. The smaller wire better fits me, but the larger wire fits the cup better. That has led to numerous alterations to my basic pattern.

However, that smaller wire is also lower in the underarm, and really wasn’t giving me the support I needed there.

I had put in a call to Bra-Makers and asked Beverly about it and she suggested a Vertical wire, and said the corresponding wire to the 38 was the 40 Vertical. However, the 40 Vertical wire felt too tight at the outer base of it. So I went back to a 38.

With the teacher here this weekend, we talked about it and then decided to try a 42 Vertical wire (42V) to see if it was a better fit. I really didn’t think it would be. I thought it would be too big, but it was perfect!

42 Vertical Wire to 38 Regular Wire

I’m not sure if you can see that or not, but I have the 38 wire on top of the 42V. I drew a bright pink line at the top of the 38 wire so you can see the 42V comes up higher at both the center front & underarm. This now gives me the better coverage I needed, without coming in too much at the base & side.

But I was in a panic for days trying to figure out what changes I was going to have to make to my size cup to fit this new wire. I did find a bit in the Bra-Makers Manuals on how to adjust for this, but wondered if I was going to make the cup too big seeing how I’m always adjusting smaller.

Then I had a thought today to compare it to the wire charts and see what size it was closest too. And it’s closest to a 44, which is the wire size that corresponds with the cups size I’m using! What a relief!

That got me cutting and sewing again!

Want to see one more wire picture?

42 Vertical Wire to 44 Regular Wire

Here’s the 42V on top of the 44 wire. The 42V comes up a little higher, but is narrower too. When measured, they’re the same length. Wire problem solved.

So, I don’t have a completed bra yet. I have a tester I did and it’s very fun material:

Tester Bra

This is a Lycra, with a non-stretch lining in the cups for support. I’ve decided I prefer the non-stretch lining to interfacing – it’s a much lighter feeling cup with more flexibility, and I think, even more strength than the interfacing gives.

I’m making the Pin-Up Girls Classic Full Band pattern, and from there I’ll make a new Shelley pattern.

List of Adjustments

Here are the adjustments I’ll need to make. I really didn’t want to start over, but felt that would give me the best fit using this new wire. Thankfully, I’m not starting over in knowledge! I’ve learned so much in the past year. Hopefully I’ll have my new bra done tomorrow. I’m planning on taking the day to sew.

Happy creating!

Hmmm

~ Michelle ~ 6 Comments

Well, I’m not sure how I feel about this one. It fits and I’m actually wearing it now. But there’s something I’m not loving about it.

Pink Butterfly material

Maybe it’s just too pink! I thought it would be so pretty for spring. But I’m not loving it.

It’s the Pin-Up Girls Classic Full Band pattern. I got the material from Merckwaerdigh‘s store, and the lining from Bra-Makers Supply. It’s a cotton-Lycra blend. I lined the cups so they would be non-stretch.

Something  I tried that a little different is I added the strap to the top of the lace. I don’t think I love that. That, and all the PINK from the front view.

Pink Butterfly side view

When working on the bra, I decided to add a little of the lace to the side seam. It doesn’t look so bad from this angle. But that front view just looks SO PINK!!! Maybe it’s because I’m really more comfortable with basic colors and adding something to them like some color in black lace. Ha! Honestly, if you looked in my closet you’d find half or more is black!

This view shows a little more of the Lycra material. Isn’t that pretty? I think that’s why I bought it – all those flowers.

No, I’m really not sure how I feel about this one. I actually wrote this blog once and deleted it because I’m not crazy about this bra. But it does fit, and I am wearing it.

Hmm.

I’m looking forward to something a little more toned down for my next bra.

Happy creating!

Here a Change, There a Change.

~ Michelle

Just a follow up from last week’s post: I don’t prefer Vertical wires. I wore them for a whole day, then on the second day I took them out. I put in my regular Long wires and am much more comfortable. That just goes to show, some women dealing with the Omega shape will do better with them, others will not. There really are no ‘set’ rules, are there?

So, I had altered my Sewy Rebecca pattern for my needs – smaller lower cup edge to fit into the smaller wire frame I need. But I decided to do a few more alterations. Here’s why:

There are things I do like about the Sewy Rebecca, and there are things I don’t like about the pattern. There are also things I like about the Shelley Full Band pattern, and a couple of things I’d change. So, I decided to see what would happen when I put the two patterns together.

I was joking with Andrea from Satin Bird Designs saying I was creating a monster; she dubbed the new bra the Franken-bra. Thankfully, it turned out very well and much prettier than those monikers sounded too.

Here’s what I did:

1. I really like the upper cup on the Rebecca – it’s just a little straighter across the seam line, so gives a little more lift. So, I used Rebecca as my starting point.

2. However, I like the split lower cup on the Shelley, so I split the lower cup on the Rebecca.

3. I also changed the shape of the Rebecca  power bar to look more like the Shelley – especially at the top where it joins the strap. In the English instructions for the Rebecca only strap elastic is used for the straps whereas the Shelley uses a fabric strap, which is my preference.

4. So I added the fabric strap.

As cute as Franken-bra is, I re-named her Shelley Rebecca. Here she is:

Front View

Here’s the front view. I used a non-stretch lace (Floral Lace Fabric) I bought from Bra Makers Supply. I really like this lace fabric.

Here’s their description:

“All-over woven lace with a floral design with virtually no stretch – making it perfect for bra cups. We would recommend stabilizing the fabric for the frame or the straps but it certainly could be used for the entire front of the bra.”

I really like this material. One thing I like about it is the seams virtually disappear into the fabric because of the texture of it. The other is it really is non-stretch, so can be used all over.

Side View

Here is the side view. Nice smooth fit into the wires, so I’m very happy. (If you’ve been reading along, please notice my restraint here in what I’m NOT mentioning.) A nice small underarm area, so again happy me! Do you see how those seams blend so well. I had to lighten the photos to get the seams and other details to show at all. Black on black really isn’t the best for photos.

Back View

Hmm, straps felt a bit too far apart still. I need to go through my patterns and make a back pattern I’m completely happy and thrilled about.

Again, I used a straight stitch to tack down the eyes, and then this time I also changed my width for the Zigzag to a wider than 2.5 stitch, which is standard for sewing lingerie. Both of these helped it go on nice and neatly.

Cup with arrows

This is just to show in a little more detail how the seams virtually disappear with this fabric. I was quite impressed with this. It also shows where I put the seam in the lower cup of the Shelley Rebecca.

Strap

Here’s where I changed the top part of the power bar. I also changed the direction it faced at the very top by cutting off the top and taping it back on ‘backwards’. I think I preferred it this way as I need the straps in a little more normally.

Well, I have more sewing to do, and a medical ID bracelet to make too.

Oh, and I used the foam cups to fill the bra cups this time. I’m still undecided which looks better.

Happy creating!

And This Time With Seam Allowances?

~ Michelle

I enjoy reading news online, and usually check what’s new before I read my emails in the morning. One morning there was a video saying what NOT to buy your girlfriend for Valentine’s Day. That got my attention, and I figured it was going to be something to do with lingerie.

And it did have to do with lingerie. Basically, men were being told not to buy bras for their girlfriends because bras were hard to fit. I had no problem with that – that is very true. However, it was the next part that really surprised me and stayed with me.

After telling men not to buy bras for their girlfriends, the video went on to offer help in bra sizing. Here’s their help: The Fruit Rule. If she’s the size of a couple of lemons, then she’s an A cup; the size of a couple of oranges, she’s a B cup; two grapefruits? she’s a C cup. And to finish it off nicely, if she’s the size of two cantaloupes she’s a D cup. Isn’t that nice and neat? I can’t speak for all women, but I don’t fit into that fruit salad.

Enough about fruit comparisons, I’m going to share a little more of my progress with my ‘adjusted’ Shelley pattern.

I’ve been mulling over my Shelley without seam allowances for a while now. I did add seam allowances and then got thinking about whether that was what I needed or not.

I made a tester bra to see how it fit with seem allowances and it just wasn’t giving me the fit I wanted. My dh says I’m trying to get a perfect fit, and I say,  ‘Yes, I do want a perfect fit.’

Without the seam allowances added, it fit perfectly into the cradle size I need. Without seam allowances the lower cup fit like a dream – something I’m struggling to achieve. However, without seam allowances, the upper cup was too small. I need more depth to get the bridge to sit against the chest wall, and a little more coverage up top too. I was torn between adding seam allowances and/or redrafting the upper cup somehow.

I decided to add a seam where there isn’t one – I added the amount of a seam allowance to the top of the upper cup, and also changed the pattern so I had the depth I need to bring the bridge back. It all worked. This one got a bow even, or as another blogger put it – it was bow-worthy.

Shelley front view

Here’s my latest Shelley from the front. I used the black forms I’d made and shown a few posts ago. They don’t fill the cups out completely, but I think they fit better than the foam cups did.

I love the lace and duoplex combination on this. The lace was from Merckwaerdigh’s store on eBay. The duoplex and findings are from Bra Makers Supply.

To help the upper cups fit a little better, I didn’t line them this time. On my first Shelley I did line the upper cups. Since I need a little more give there, no lining this time around. And that helped too.

Shelley side view

I have to say, I LOVE how neatly the cups are fitting into the cradle. I am so very pleased with how this has turned out. I didn’t like the look of the ‘easing’. I had to do so much easing along the lower cup, it looked more like gathering to me. And it gave the cups a balloon-like shape. This is much better.

Shelley back view

And a basic back. Looking at it, the straps seem a bit far apart, but I didn’t notice that when I put it on. Something to think about tweaking for my next time.

I got my ‘real’ Shelley pattern in the mail today. Tomorrow I’ll have some time to pull it out and compare all the pieces to what I’ve made from the Pin-Up Girls Classic pattern and CD Designer Bras by YOU! I have to say, I loved learning how to make this, but it will be a treat to have the pattern too.

My next project may be to help out a friend. She recently went to a specialty store and was fitted only to find out they don’t carry anything in her size – too small around the rib cage. After dealing with the fitting challenges of the Omega shape, a small band almost sounds simple. I’ll post what we do, and how it turns out.

Oh, and my dh is also requesting matching panties, so that may be in the near future too. Two other bloggers have just offered free patterns, and I’m planning on trying both of their patterns.

http://www.madalynne.com/

http://www.fehrtrade.com/article/676/free-lacey-thong-panty-pattern

Happy creating!

Shelley is coming February 1st!

~ Michelle

Now, this might seem a little silly to some, but I’m very excited. I was just on the Bra-Makers web site and saw that the Shelley bra pattern will be available on February 1st. That is very exciting news to me.

Now, the reason it might seem silly is I made this pattern for myself from my Pin-Up Girls Classic pattern & the CD Designer Bras by YOU! So I have a pattern. However, I only have it in my adjusted or altered pattern size. It is a wonderful pattern, and makes such a pretty bra it will be nice to have the real pattern. (that if I use, I have to adjust!) But it will be a wonderful addition to my pattern collection!

PB-3230%20Shelley

This is the Shelley pattern picture from Bra-Makers supply.

Shelley Pattern

The Shelley and the Sewy Rebecca patterns are very similar in that both have lace upper cups and a power bar, but the Shelley has a two-part lower cup whereas the Rebecca only one.

From a few things I’ve either read or heard, a few people have been interested in trying the Rebecca pattern, but are hesitant because it has to come from Europe and/or isn’t in English – I HIGHLY recommend all the patterns I’ve ordered from Bra-Makers’ Supply and this would be no exception. Even though I’ve made it, I’m ordering it!

Happy creating!

This is a Test; This is Only a Test.

~ Michelle

Boy, that takes the pressure off. Knowing this was only a test; knowing I wasn’t going to be making the WHOLE bra before I found out if it would fit. That really took the pressure off.

So, onto my tester bra that I’m sewing for Amy’s Sew-Along.

I’m sewing the DB3 by Danglez. Starting all over was a bit of a stress. I’ve made so many alterations to my Pin-Up Girls Pattern that I can now go to it and know I’m going to get a bra that fits – even the Shelley. (smile)

However, I didn’t know at all how this bra would fit. And if anyone is wondering, I did get the right size. I decided to try some of the alterations I’ve made to the Pin-Up Girls, and things have worked out pretty well.

Adjustment to lower cup for Omega Shape

These tissue paper pictures really don’t show very well, but it does give you an idea of what I’m doing. Here are the alterations I made to the lower cup. I did the same for the power bar. I was hoping this would take enough of the extra out of the pattern around the wire line, and it was pretty close.

showing the adjustments for Omega shape not enough

Here you can see I didn’t quite get the adjustments I needed and still had a little more cup than wire line. I took my pins out and made my power net stretch a bit. I did alter the pattern again though, so next time I won’t have to stretch it all.

front of tester bra

Here is the front of my tester bra. The cups fit well, but I do need to take them in at the underarm – just like my Pin-Up Girls pattern.

For the material, I didn’t use my ‘good’ materials that I’ve ordered from Bra-Makers Supply or Merckwaerdigh. This is some left over Power Net, and some Lycra I bought on sale the other day. I did interface the Lycra to give it more support.

interfacing on the lower cup

This shows the interfacing on the lower cup. I also interfaced the bridge & powerbar for more support.

back of tester bra

This last picture shows the back of the bra. If you look, you can also see the pins at the underarm and center of the bra. Those are areas I want to adjust on the pattern.

I am so happy with this tester bra experience. Trying it out first and knowing I wasn’t going to be ‘completing’ the bra really was a tremendous idea – Thank you, Amy!

Now to upload my photos to the Sew-Along. And soon to come, my completed Danglez DB3.

Happy creating!

The Shelley – without Seam Allowance

~ Michelle ~ 12 Comments

I still have a hard time believing I did this. I actually worked on the pattern, making sure the underarm area was shortened, and the allowance was made in the pattern for the Omega shape – but I forgot to add a seam allowance to the pattern! And it all went together so nicely that I didn’t notice until I tried it on!

All that upset aside, it turned out very well and looks so pretty.

Shelley Bra Full Band Beige Omega Design Front View

Here is the Shelley from the front. I love the lace I used here. All the materials are from Bra-Makers Supply. I decided to do something a little different with the lace and used a little flower I cut out to cover the front seam on the band where it joins to the bridge. I applied it before sewing in the cups or sewing the elastic to the lower edge. I was quite pleased with that little detail.

Shelley Bra Full Band Beige Omega Design Side View

Here is the side view. Do you notice, there are no little gathers at the bottom of the cup? I made some alterations to the pattern and I am so happy with them. I actually took it in at the corners on the bottom so it would fit into the cup perfectly and it did! So, that means no more darts or ‘easing’ the cup into a smaller opening.

Something I’d been wondering – and I’d need someone who has much more technical experience with pattern drafting to let me know if I’m correct or not – if I’m using a D for my wire size, then is the D cup pattern the correct size for the base of my pattern. I’m dealing with two different sizes, so I was just wondering.

My wondering led me to check. and I pulled out the D pattern and compared the pattern I’d made and it fit. So, now I’m thinking I could [possibly] make my patterns by starting with a D and then graduating it up to the F cup I need. Hmm, some more playing with patterns is ahead.

Shelley Bra Full Band Beige Omega Design Back View

And this is the back. I’m very happy with it as well. I based this on a Prima Donna bra I had and took apart to clone. I haven’t done that yet, but did decide to copy the back. I will need to make my fabric straps longer if I do this again. There was no ‘extra’ in that strap.

As well, the hooks are a little wonky (is that a word?). I’ve been having a bit of trouble with my zigzag handling the fabrics for lingerie. I’ve spoken someone in the education department of Elna (my sewing machine brand). They suggested using a walking foot to help with that. I haven’t tried that yet though. I had a few problems with the stitches bunching up on this bra in a few places. I wonder if anyone else is having the same problems?

Even though I left out the seam allowance when I made this, and the cups aren’t quite deep enough as a result, I’m still very happy with this bra. I now have my pattern with adjusted seam allowances, and am ready to sew it again.

Before I do, I’m planning on joining Amy on her Bra-Making Sew Along.

Happy creating!