Pinterest Find and More

September 24, 2016December 27, 2017 ~ Michelle

Kantje Boord

Do you remember a few weeks ago I posted about my hubby’s trip to Germany?

I’d mentioned some gorgeous material from Kantje Boord. Gorgeous material I’d seen a few years ago. Gorgeous material that Sigrid made into a lovely bra. Gorgeous material that I didn’t order.

When I initially wrote the post, I couldn’t find a photo of the bra, even though I knew I’d saved it… somewhere. This week, I was adding a photo to my Pinterest page and there it was. The bra Sigrid made.

Isn’t that lovely? Do you follow Sigrid? I really enjoy reading about her makes.

After seeing how pretty this bra is again, I’m having a second thought or two about not ordering this, while telling myself, ‘I will not be tempted by Lycra.’ Sigh. I’ll have to see when my hubby’s work takes him to Europe again.

Do you follow Sigrid’s blog? Have you been part of a sewing swap before? What ideas do you have for sewing swap gifts?

Happy creating!

While in Germany

August 27, 2016December 27, 2016 ~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

My hubby recently made a work trip to Germany. Unfortunately, I couldn’t go with him. My thoughts were, if I can’t go with him, he’s bringing me something back. I was ready to help him with that.

First I looked at Kantje Boord. I have dreamed of ordering from them since I first started thinking about bra-making and had started to follow Sigrid‘s blog.

Sigrid made one bra, and I loved it. Seriously. Loved it. I contacted her to find out where she got the material. It turned out to be Kantje Boord.

I found it. I found it way back when I’d asked her, and I found it again just last week. You can click on the photo to find it yourself.

It was so pretty made up. I looked again to find the photo of Sigrid’s bra, but that I couldn’t find again.

My one problem with this is it’s lace and Lycra. I have a few lace and Lycra bras and bra kits; they just aren’t as supportive as a lace and duoplex bra for me. I decided I wasn’t going to buy it after all.

A few days went by, and I was still thinking about my hubby’s upcoming trip and how I could take advantage of it. Then I had another thought… Sewy! Sewy is right in Germany. I quickly made my way to their website.

I already have a few of their patterns, so didn’t look too closely at those. I did look at the bra kits, but just looked. As I was looking, I decided I wasn’t going to be tempted by anything with Lycra. So what else did Sewy have other than bra kits and patterns?

Well, they had one thing I’ve been trying to find for quite some time: Pareostoff.

Can you make that word out? According to Google Translate Pareostoff in German is… Wait for it… It’s Pareostoff in English. Well, that didn’t help. I was thinking the ‘stoff’ part of the word is close to our English ‘stuff’, so was good with my translation Pareo ‘stuff’. Stoff alone translates to ‘material’. Pareo material. Perfect!

Pareo I love it! Don’t look for it though. Sewy only a little left. Once I’d made my purchase it was gone from the website. It even came in that adorable Sewy bag for storage.

So, I’d ordered some gorgeous material and was sending it to the hotel where my husband was staying. Then I received this in an email:

“Guten Tag, MRS Michelle,

wir haben soeben folgende Artikel versandt, viel Spaß beim Verarbeiten!

Die Sendung geht an:”

After that, it had the hotel address. The hotel address was all I could make out. Hmm. It was time for Google Translate again:

“Good day, MRS Michelle,

we have just sent the following products, a lot of fun while processing!

The show goes on:”

Isn’t that great? I’m glad they had a lot of fun. It’s been fun for me too.

I’ve been looking for black with polka dots for over a year now. I have a black and white polka dot bathing suit and wanted a cover up. I wanted polka dots.

bathing suit

The Pareostoff is perfect.

Bathing suit and Pareo There were no problems with my German order at all. Thank you, Sewy!

Remember a few weeks ago I was working on organizing my patterns? Once that job was done, I decided to make a similar catalog of my Craftsy classes. I was on a roll!

Untitled These will go right behind my nicely organized patterns in my sewing binder. I also plan to work through all my classes. Some classes I devoured as soon as I bought them; others well, others have never even been opened. It’s time.

Happy creating!

Kwik Sew 3300

June 29, 2014December 27, 2016 ~ Michelle ~ 5 Comments

This is such a pretty style. Here is my Kwik Sew 3300:

100_2251

I think it looks so pretty with the black and white theme. The lace was a gift, and the floral stretch lace is from a local fabric store. All other material supplies are from Bra Makers Supply.

It’s pretty, but there were a couple of fitting issues. One really wasn’t a biggie. This bra had the straps pinned up about 2 inches here in the picture – so I shortened those.

The bigger fitting issue is the upper part of the cup is loose. I could pinch a quarter-inch out of the upper cup. That shouldn’t be too hard to fix on the pattern, and thankfully it doesn’t show when I wear it. This style actually fits similarly to how a foam cup bra fits.

100_2256

You can see here where I pinned the cup.

The steps I took beforehand really helped me to get the cup to fit properly. Here’s what I did for this bra (and some of this is from past posts, but I’m putting it all together here):

The first thing I did was sew up a muslin for the cups. I did this twice. After looking at the pattern pieces, and picking the one I thought was closest to my size, I sewed up my first muslin. I used some scrap cotton I had left over from a skirt muslin I’d made. On this first one I could see how much I would need to adjust the pattern along the wire line. Remember, I my wear one size bra for the cups, but my wire size does not match that – it’s quite a bit smaller. So that was my first adjustment.

After I altered the pattern I sewed up another cup muslin. Again, I used some left over cotton, but this time it was from one of my moulages. This second one I pinned over an existing well-fitting bra. It was a pretty good fit at this point. But still needed a bit of adjustment. On this second muslin I drew where the seam lines fell underneath it. Again, dealing with an Omega shape means most patterns don’t fit the way they are.

100_2175

At this point I was pretty sure I had the right size and shape for me. And I was really close.

This bra has a vertical seam, so no upper and lower cup, but instead and inside and outside cup. I was using lace for both the inside and outside cups, so I lined them both with sheer cup lining. That made both cups completely non-stretch to give it the support it needed. I’ve done this before on all lace bras, and it works great. I usually don’t use Lycra because I don’t find it offers the support needed, but using this sheer cup lining would be a great option for under Lycra too.

At this point I was feeling quite confident that this bra was going to fit without any issues. You see, most of my issues have been the bridge and the adjustments I needed for the Omega shape. I haven’t run into this looseness before.

I didn’t use the band that came with the pattern. I used the one I know fits wells. I now have a custom bridge that is working great for me and I wasn’t going to mess with that. As well, I drafted the cradle on my band to fit a Vertical wire and a custom bridge. After all the work to get the band to fit so well, there was no way I was going to try another band! All I was really wanted was to insert the 3300 cups into my band for a different look.

Even though this bra pattern still needs some tweaking, the steps I took ahead of time really were worth all the effort. And if you have challenges with fitting, I really recommend this method of fitting the bra cups. A shout out to Sigrid for sharing this. And after much searching, I realized it was not in her blog, but on Pattern Review. She explained this when she reviewed Merckwaerdigh’s BHST2 pattern. Really a great tip!

Happy Creating!

A Shout Out and a Few Accomplishments

May 19, 2014December 27, 2017 ~ Michelle

I’m one of those people who LOVES gifts. Just ask my dear hubby. Our first year married, he got confused because my birthday and a former long-time girlfriend both had our birthdays on the 15th – just different months. It was a lovely fall day, and he was heading into the room I was in with a card in hand and something behind his back. His Mum realized what he was doing, and stopped him. I had no problem with it at all. I just told him I wanted my gift. I didn’t care what the occasion was. I was good with the mix up – just hand over the gift. He made me wait. But that tells you a little of my personality there. I love gifts!

So, I want to say a big ‘Thank You’ to a couple of wonderful fellow bra-makers (whom I met on Amy’s Sew Along) who have sent me the loveliest gifts. Thank you Ginny and Naomi!

A while back, Ginny sent me these lovely laces and elastics.

Laces and elastics from Ginny

I’ve dipped into these elastics on more than one occasion. Elastics have become a valued item here. I hate using precious elastic on something that ends up not fitting! And I have plans for one of these laces on a bra I’ve got all cut out. But not the one I’m working on right now – I ran out of strap elastic for the cut out one.

Ginny also sent some adorable earrings she’d made – which didn’t make it into the shot here. You can see some of her hand-made creations here in her Etsy shop.

These are the laces I just got from Naomi. I love that beige. I’ve always been a beige or black girl. But there are too many laces out there that are so pretty to stick with that. Pretty colors, here I come!

Laces from Naomi

And a bunch of elastics, straps, upper cup elastic and more. Oh, that dark purple… such a beautiful color.

Elastics from Naomi

So a really big Thank You to both ladies.

And those accomplishments I mentioned? I finished my moulage AND my sloper. Both patterns are packaged away for the time being. I have to sew something now and I’ll pull the sloper out after I get my sewing fix.

moulage done

Here’s the final moulage. I found this great material in the clearance area and it worked better than the printed one I’d used previously. It is such a relief to be done this. Naomi sent me a great idea to transform my dress form using the moulage. Take a look at how Mary did it in her blog Cloning Couture. I’m definitely mulling this idea over. It’s a great idea!

And lastly, here’s an idea I got from Sigrid’s blog. And I looked and looked for this posting from her, and could not find it. Here’s what she said, “Pin (or baste) the cup over a well fitting bra, using the seam allowances for the pinning.”

Testing Bra Cup size

This is a new pattern for me. It’s Kwik Sew’s 3300, and I had to guess which size I was going to be. I did pretty well. This is a great starting point. I’ll have to change it from a partial band to a full band, but I can do that fairly easily knowing the basic cup pattern will fit so well.

Standard alteration to fit in smaller wires

This isn’t the easiest to see, but there’s a pin there at the bottom of the cup where there is excess material. That’s about a standard amount I need to take out to account for the smaller wires I need. So this is on it’s way to being pretty good already. Off to work on some pattern alterations now.

Happy Creating!

Wrapping Up Those Lose Ends

June 10, 2013December 27, 2017 ~ Michelle

Ever have one of those moments where you can’t believe what you’ve done? I’ve been trying to find a solution to one for the past week. Last you heard from me I was cloning that very pretty Fantasie Vivienne . I went for basic black, and was quite happy with how everything was tuning out. It wasn’t until I was almost done – and I mean sewing on the hooks & eyes – that I saw this piece of material flapping around. I wondered as I stopped everything I was doing, ‘What could possibly be flapping around?’

You tell me if you see what I did wrong.

Front View

Yeah, something really doesn’t look right there, does it? I can hear other comments, like Sigrid on her blog, saying ‘Ask me how I know.’ She’d had a problem in the past with some lace too, but not sewing it in upside down! Yes, that’s what I did here. The narrower part of the lace is supposed to meet the strap attachment and the wider lace is supposed to meet the bridge. That is not happening here! Oops.

So, I’ve been thinking about it all week. Can I just ‘attach’ that piece of lace anyway, and then ‘tuck’ the ‘extra’ fabric inside somewhere without making the cups too small? Can I take out the stitches on the cross cup seam and sew the lace in the correct way? I’ve ruled out taking the cups out because there is trimming done under the underarm area after the elastic is put on. Hmm. I’m just waiting for that perfect solution to come to me to make this wearable, so it’s not quite there.

Other than that rather glaring problem which makes the bra unwearable, it didn’t turn out too badly.

Being the first time I made this style, I was guessing at what order things would be sewn in. There’s a drawback to cloning a new pattern. If there are different elements than previous patterns, you may have a surprise – like me!

Side View

Everything was fine here in the side view. I actually quite liked the fit for the most part, so this is definitely going to be a pattern I make again… with bold, high-lighted, over-sized instructions for the correct way to attach the lace!

Back View

Here’s another area where I had a bit of a surprise. I wasn’t thinking when I ‘added’ the elastic width to the little dip in the back where the hooks & eyes attach. When I went to attach the hooks, it looked too wide. Hmm. Thinking again, ‘What did I do here?’ Then I remembered, so a quick erase on the pattern, and it will be a two-set of hooks and eyes on the next one. But compared to the lace mess-up, this is no big deal. I’ll probably also bring those back straps in closer to the middle.

Under Cup Detail

And this was a pleasant surprise while sewing the bra. I really like how the cup seam sits right over the bridge-band seam on the cradle. I thought that was a very pretty design element.

So, that’s my first attempt at the Vivienne clone. I should have made a tester, but was a bit too confident. Now that I’ve been bitten, I may be a bit more cautious in the future.

I am very excited about a beautiful set of material I purchased. It was one of those items I acted on quickly because the last time I watched something in Merckwaerdigh‘s store, it was gone the next time I looked for it. So this is going to be a future bra:

black & white Merckwaerdigh

Isn’t that lovely?

And one final loose end – my tray. Well, it seems my dear husband has an opinion on how I finish the tray. He didn’t like what I had proposed, or how it was it was looking. All work on the tray came to a complete halt. I didn’t like what he was suggesting either, so we were at an impasse.

I was dropping my son off at work one day, and dropped into the store there. And I just happened to see a large tray painted all black with a rooster on the bottom of the tray. That gave me an idea. I’m going to paint the whole tray black, same as the cart it sits on, and then I’m going to put a brighter paper pattern on the bottom of the tray instead of the decoupage. My hubby isn’t thrilled yet, but he’s not totally against it either. So, I think this will be my tray solution. Pictures to come.

Happy creating!

A Spy in the… Changeroom

May 5, 2013December 27, 2017 ~ Michelle ~ 5 Comments

I haven’t done any sewing all week! No painting or jewelry either. What have I been doing? Well, a lot of sneezing, sniffling and coughing, and feeling rather miserable. The weather is finally nice and I have a Spring cold.

Both of my sons had dental appointments in the big city next to us this past week, so I found myself with a good two hours before I needed to pick them up. It was too far to drive home and back again, so I was wondering what to do. Then I remembered a bra specialty store that had been close by. It had moved since I had last been there years ago, but my dear hubby googled it for me.

I dropped in, and went for a fitting. I was a bit surprised by the size I ended up in. However, it did fit. But having learned so much about bra-making in the past year, I was curious if the wire size was the same as what I used to wear in RTW sizes. I came home and checked, and yup, same wire size as before. So now, a smaller band, so a bigger cup.

The most exciting part of being in the boutique was looking at the bras and seeing aspects of things I’d either read, or seen or used!

Like this one: (Yes, I took a few pictures with my phone.)

Prima Donna showing elastic at hooks

Recognize that downward hike on this popular brand? This is something Sigrid uses and mentions numerous times on her blog, and I’ve adopted it too. Beverly Johnson describes how to do this in her Bra-Makers Manual. However, I don’t think my hike is this downward.

And there was this:

Fantasie bra showing same elastic

Do you recognize this? This is the same way I was recently shown how to attach the strap. However, in this case the company used the same strap elastic as used on the strap itself. I think that makes a nice continuous visual line.

And one more:

Fantasie bra showing sheer powernet

On this bra I recognized the power net the company used; I’m pretty sure it’s Regular Power Net. Bra-Makers Supply describes it as looking ‘meshy’. I’ve used it and it looks exactly like this!

I had such fun at the boutique – all for reasons I’m sure most customers don’t experience. But the best moment I had while there? It was when the woman fitting me picked up my bra – the one that I had most recently sewn – and asked if it was a Fantasie! Well, if that isn’t going to make me feel great about my bras, I don’t know what will.

I still have a bra cut out on the dinning room table and plan to get it done this week. I’ve made all the adjustments to the pattern, and even made a custom bridge following Norma’s instructions from her ebook. So my next post won’t be quite as exciting as me sneaking pictures in a dressing room, but I’m sure I’ll be feeling much better by then!

Happy creating!

The Great Blog Trip or The Search for Sewy Rebecca Instructions

December 27, 2012July 10, 2017 ~ Michelle ~ 23 Comments

I’d read about the Sewy Rebecca bra on Sigrid’s blog. It’s one of her TNT (tried & true) patterns, and they look so lovely. She really does a wonderful job. So after admiring so many of her creations, I wanted to try the pattern for myself.

krprebecca_rosakopie_p1

This is the stock picture from Sewy. Isn’t that a lovely bra? I ordered it from Sewy, which is a German web site. It was a while ago, so I can’t remember the whole ordering process, but I’m pretty sure I emailed them and they sent me a Paypal invoice. I didn’t have any problems at all with my order.

I did have a problem once I got my order though. The instructions are all in German! I started searching on the web. I’d read ELingeriA, had carried the pattern at one time and had a PDF instruction page in English. But ELingeriA had closed. Hmm.

My search continued. I made various attempts to get the instructions, but was beginning to think I would have to use Googe Translate and hope for the best. I did get the PDF from Renee at Miss Celie’s Pants.

I have my PDF English instructions. And for future reference, I am willing to share it.

It was time to sew. I had bought a really beautiful material packet from Merckwaerdigh on eBay. She’s in The Netherlands, but I’ve never had a problem with ordering from her either. She’s always very helpful, and has beautiful fabrics.

So, I have my pattern, English instructions and beautiful material. And I sewed. My bra turned out very well, but… Oh, there have been a lot of buts in this journey to sewing my own bras.

In this case, the cups are too small. I thought the ‘European’ sized bras I had bought in specialty stores were the same as European sizes. It turns out they’re not. This bra is definitely 1, and possibly 2 cup sizes smaller than I need. I am still very pleased though, with this very beautiful bra.

Sewy Rebecca front view