A Review of Sewing Panties Construction & Fit

Welcome to Michelle’s Creations for the Canada Cups – Cross Your Heart Relay blog tour, 2016.

banner-improvedI hope you’re enjoying all of our makes and reviews so far. This time around, I’m reviewing Beverly Johnson’s new Panty class and so is Deb, my booty buddy, from Sprouting JubeJube. Make sure after you read my post, you hop on over to read Deb’s thoughts on the class. If you started with Deb’s review, welcome here!  I do know Deb has been really busy with all her makes and has them all here in a separate write-up than her class review.

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Don’t you love Craftsy? It really is the best. They offer online classes that never expire, and in so many different categories (sewing, cooking, gardening, painting…); the instructors they get are the best and they answer your questions; Craftsy offers kits and supplies as well. They really are great!

You’ll see in my sidebar menu, I’m an affiliate with Craftsy. I decided to do this because I can do this without any compromise. I really do think they’re great. You won’t see me stand behind everything. But Craftsy, I do.

Back to Sewing Panties Construction & Fit. I started watching. I watched the class half way through the first night. Then got up the next morning and watched the rest of it. I felt ready and confident to draft my own panties which was something I’d wondered if I could really do before the class.

Beverly assures us that drafting our own panties isn’t hard. It’s just a few simple measurements. Then she proceeds to show us just how to do it. This photo is from Craftsy showing Beverly making her master panty pattern.

She was absolutely right! It’s not hard.

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The drafting of the panty is very reminiscent of Suzy Furrer’s Sloper classes. Once we’ve drafted our pattern, Beverly moves on to show us the three basic styles of panties – Brief, Hipster, and Bikini – and how to make each one from our own master pattern.

From those three styles, Beverly shows some more variations like making your own French cut panties. There is also a style with the seams in the front. I had just been looking at the Make Bra DL21 pattern. I’d read great reviews on them and how the seams didn’t show at all. I’m going to try my hand at drafting my own!

My big question is how will my class-drafted pattern compare to my favorite pattern?

Before I made a pair up, I wanted to compare my class-drafted pattern to my favorites: Kwik Sew 2286.

Here are both back pattern pieces – the black outline is the class-drafted pattern; the white pattern piece is my 2286 pattern:

back 2

The pencil wasn’t showing up very well in the photo, so I redrew the lines in black on my computer. The class-drafted Hipster hits the center back exactly the same as my 2286s. The hip sits a bit higher on the class-drafted pair. As well, the class-drafted back is a bit wider in the hip and gives a little more cheek coverage. I had no idea my 2286s were cheeky!

I was thinking about the size difference, and remembered Beverly does suggest in the class to start with a 20% reduction when drafting the pattern. Clearly, my 2286s have more than 20% reduction, which shows even more on the front piece.

Front

Again, the front is bigger on my class-drafted pair. And the Hipster line sits a little lower. The leg opening on the front of my class-drafted pair (again, outlined in black) is definitely lower, and that would be something I’d want to change.

Gusset

The class-drafted gusset is shorter and although you can’t tell in the photo, it’s a touch narrower as well. I’d even narrowed the gusset pattern piece on my 2286s.

For my panties, I’m going to use my favorite 2286s like I often use my sloper – to help me get the fit I want. I will change the leg opening on the front, lengthen the gusset a tiny bit, and since I haven’t found my 2286s to be too small at all, I will narrow the class-drafted pattern.

It’s time for new panties! New, drafted-to-my-measurements, incorporating-all-the-aspects-of-my-favorite-pattern, and matching-my-new-bra new panties. These are not just any panties!

panties on table

Oh, I like these. I incorporated the lace application on the legs the same as my 2286s, and did a lace front panel to match my bra.

I wanted to show you a few more details. One of the things I’ve learned making my own panties is the side seam is a weak spot when you’re using lace on the front like this. So, for these panties, I used a 1/2″ strip of knit interfacing to reinforce the seam.

reinforement

As well, having a lace front isn’t quite the same without some elastic. It will often be too loose. So a little bit of lingerie elastic behind the lace is hardly visible, but makes a big difference when you’re wearing them.

Elastic behind the lace

I like everything to look as nice inside as out. I pin my lace out of the way and use my Pinking blade to trim away the excess fabric.

Pinking the edges

There’s only one more thing to add. This is one of the bows I made for my bra.

One more thing to add

Here’s my matching set.

Full set on table 2

 I love them both!

Set on Catherine 3

I loved making self-drafted panties, but that wasn’t all I made. As well as making these panties, I reviewed a pattern.

Did you see my teaser posts? I’ve had a few over the last week. They were all letting you know there was a tour coming up.

This photo is the cover of the pattern I made. Can you tell what pattern it is? I tried to make it hard.

pattern mix 2

 A little Photoshop and it’s hardly recognizable. Here’s what it really looks like:

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Yes, it’s the Pin-Up Girls Boy Short Collection.

Along with covering Beverly’s newest class, Deb from Sprouting JubeJube and I are both reviewing panty patterns, but not the same pattern. I’m reviewing the Pin-Up Girls Boy Short Collection. Although I know what pattern Deb is making, I’m not going to tell. You’ll have to go to Deb’s blog to see her pattern review and all her makes. She really did make some lovely panties, and we found out we love the same materials. Really. We have the same Cotton Lycra stash. That’s all I’m saying.

Let me show you the Boy Shorts I made.

Front of panty

 They look just like Boy Shorts, but they also looked bigger than what I usually wear.

comparison

And they are bigger. To be totally honest here, they looked HUGE to me!  It’s mostly the different shape. Boy shorts have material over the leg and what I usually wear doesn’t. Oh my! Here they are being compared to my favorite Kwik Sew 2286s. I know what size not to use so my next pair will fit.

The best part of these panties is the back. I made view 4. They really have a super cute back and I will use this feature in the future.

Back lace detail

Isn’t that a lovely detail?

I want to thank Bra-Makers Supply for providing me with the Pin-Up Girls Boy Short Collection, and Craftsy for providing me with the class Sewing Panties Construction & Fit.

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Tour Schedule Itinerary

Follow the magical tour to see what we all have under our clothes

Canada Cups Logo Draft

Saturday, September 17

bloggers

A big thank you to our wonderful bloggers. They’ve all done such a great job!

Happy creating!

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124 thoughts on “A Review of Sewing Panties Construction & Fit

  1. I found the panty class fast paced , but easy to follow. I’ve made about 6 pairs, and love the fit. My next pair will have a little more lace and I’m determined to find out if “bum ruching” really is comfortable!

  2. Such a luxe set you’ve made Michelle! Isn’t drafting your own panties so much fun??? I wasn’t too sure I’d like doing so, but discovered that I love it!

    Lots going on in my life right now that has kept me from my sewing machine, I’ll need to email you soon and catch you up on it all.

    I’ve so enjoyed the Canada Cups Tour!

    My favorite style is somewhere between a hipster and a brief. And while I like the look of a high cut leg opening, I find that really uncomfortable to wear so usually just do a regular leg opening.

  3. My fav panty style is a hipster. Thanks for including all the pattern comparison photos (rather than just writing that there are differences in size and shape).

  4. It sounds like a really interesting class!! And a very detailed review, Michelle! I’ve already have a panty sloper, but it wouldn’t hurt to try the Beverly method too 😉 And your boyshort is so lovely, the lace detail at the back is so pretty! I prefer wearing hipster style briefs, but boyshorts are also a favourite 🙂

  5. I just enrolled in that class and watched through the first couple of lessons. I’m blown away by the amount of information! I loved your panties you made from the self-drafted pattern. Beautiful!

  6. My favourite panty type are regular briefs. I like to make them slightly higher in the leg and include lace. Some hipster styles are almost briefs and work well for me too.

  7. I like the hipster style of panties, but find the purchased ones often roll down and end up as bikinis, which I definitely don’t like. If I wanted bikinis, I would buy them as bikinis! Maybe with Beverly’s panty class which I have but haven’t watched yet I can draft some hipsters which stay where they’re supposed to.

  8. French cut brief are my favorite panty. Will definitely look into the class more as I really want to step into making panties, too!

  9. Great post Michelle! My favourite pantie style is anything comfortable – full coverage bikinis or boyshort styles, especially with a soft, pretty lace trim! Bras, I just can’t go past a classic balconnette!

  10. The lace on your first pair make these look so classy! I had no idea there were so many options for patterns. My favourite that I have made is from a swimsuit bottom pattern and I really dislike rtw now. I just need to find the perfect fabric though now that my fit is spot on. Do you have a favourite place to get your cotton lycra?

    1. Thank you, Jenny! I have no desire to buy RTW anymore either. BUT if I see something cute, I have no problem taking a photo and copy the style. 🙂 This cotton Lycra is from Bra-Makers Supply. My local Fabricland has also started to carry some CL too, so I’ll get some at both places now.

  11. I’m into cotton… all cotton… and comfy underwear. Probably because I haven’t yet tried to sew up my own! I love high waisted panties, and thick strapped bras.

  12. My favorite panty style? I like the panties with the high cut legs that go to the normal waistline. I wore bikinis when I was younger, but no longer!

  13. Love the fact that this course allows you to draft the style you want! I prefer high waisted undies but didn’t like the choices in my size range. But now I can explore even more styles (without spending tons of $$)

  14. I like bikinis and briefs, with a good bum coverage! I took that class on Craftsy, I just need to watch it now 🙂 Thanks for the review!

  15. I like hipsters for casual wear, bikini for exercising, and almost any style made completely in lace for wearing under dress pants at work (panty lines aren’t as noticeable for me that way).

  16. My favorite panty style is a brief cut slightly below the bellybutton and has a center back seam that fits loosely around the legs for a “no panty line” look. I like them made of sft stretch lace or a lightweight natural fiber/lycra blend that breathes well. My favorite bra style is a vertical seam, but I haven’t found RTW to fit now have I sewn one to fit yet. My second favorite is a full-cup, with a horizontal cross-cup seam and split lower cup. I usually avoid foam cups – I need my bras to “breathe”.

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