I’ve made my drafted pattern, but I want to check how it will fit before I sew up a bra.
There are a couple of ways I can test the fit before I start sewing up a whole bra. In Beverly’s Craftsy class, Foam, Lace & Beyond, she shows how to convert your Classic pattern from a diagonal seam to a horizontal seam. I did this to compare the two patterns because the original pattern I made from the draft was a horizontal seam.
It’s looking pretty good on paper and I’m feeling encouraged.
Even though I’m encouraged by my pattern, I still want to make a tester cup. There are no alterations done to this basic pattern, and I have a list I usually need: make the underarm smaller, a flat spot adjustment, check the bridge height and bottom width. Then there are the Omega considerations. Making a test cup is simply one more confirmation for me.
This tester cup is looking good too.
Here’s the dart I pinched out. I’ll adjust the pattern and then it’s time to cut out a new bra! I’m going to adjust the strap and upper cup at the side too. You can see both in the photo below.
A Trial Bra
My sewing was going along nice and smoothly, and then a tiny snag. I pulled the elastic out of the finding kit and it was the ‘old’ elastic. There’s been a change in elastics and the newer one is 20% less stretchy. It’s a good thing the Fairy Bra Mother blogs. I went over to Beverly’s blog and used her information to take out that extra width I’d added to my band. You can read her post here.
I not only looked that up, but also her post on sewing a Gothic Arch because it’s such a comfortable alteration.
Here’s my new bra. It fits so well, and I’m so excited about it! I think I’m more excited about this bra than any bra I’ve made in the past.
Here’s the side view. You can see there are a couple of little alterations I want to make.
The pin there? I want to take a little more out from the underarm there. As well, I’ll want to raise the side there 1/4-inch. The wire is coming to the top of the elastic, that’s why I didn’t finish it there.
The back is fine. Taking out that 20% makes it fit perfectly.
Here’s the Gothic arch I added. It is such a comfortable pattern alteration.
All in all, I’m thrilled with my new bra, and the drafting experience.
P.S. You may want to look at A Review of Sewing Bras: Foam, Lace & Beyond.