‘My’ New Serger

September 30, 2014December 27, 2017 ~ Michelle

I can’t even begin to tell you how excited I was to bring home my friend’s serger. And then to be told she wasn’t in any hurry to get it back; that I could just keep it at my house; that she’d never used it even. Thrilled would be a good place to start.

I found a great tutorial with really clear instructions on how to oil your serger, and where to oil it. It was much clearer than the manual’s instructions. You can read it here.

The machine really sounded terrible when I serged that first test swatch. Imagine the sound of metal grinding against metal. That was pretty much how it sounded. Once I oiled it, it did sound better. However, my second test swatch still sounded rough to me.

My plans to finish the scarf for my Mum went out the window, as well as a camisole I wanted to make for my Mum. At least as far as using the serger for those projects went. So the machine was packed up and put in the trunk of my car to make a trip to the repair man.

The trip to the repair man was good news on one hand – there’s nothing wrong with the machine. It is usable. He said it could use a tune up, but the blade is still sharp and it was working as it was. The not great news is he said this model is a noisy model and it vibrates a fair amount. He said it also sometimes skips stitches. Hmm, as I said, not great news. So, it’s back home with me, but also still sitting in the box awaiting its fate. I’m not feeling quite as thrilled.

So to finish one of my projects I decided to use my overlock stitch on my sewing machine to sew up the camisole. It turned out so nice.

Cami for Mum

This is a lovely shaped camisole pattern. It’s Kwik Sew 2286. And it actually has shaping to it – it curves in at the waist.

The material I used is a burnout knit. I was wishing I had more of it. I only bought a 1/4 of a meter when I first bought it a couple of years ago, as at that time I was only planning on using it to cover foam bra cups with it.

Black burnout knit on beige cups

Here’s an older photo of a foam cup bra I made when I first started making bras, and I used the burnout knit to cover the cups. This was the burnout knit over beige foam cups from Bra Makers Supply. Such a pretty material! You can read about the bra on my blog here.

100_2492

And here’s how the material is over my hand. This will be a fun and flirty camisole, but not likely one to be worn showing. It’s a little too transparent for that I think.

As for the scarf clone? Well, I’m still contemplating doing the hem by hand AND contemplating oiling up the serger again and giving the rolled hem a try. I haven’t decided yet how I’m going to finish that one yet. I’m encouraging myself right now even, that I as I type this; I have the serger here, and it does work… I just might be leaning towards the serger rolled hem.

Happy creating!

A Pirose Clone (Look What Came to Stay)

September 22, 2014December 27, 2017 ~ Michelle ~ 6 Comments

I really wanted to make a copy of one of my favorite scarves – The Pirose scarf. I have two of these, and just love them both. However, they are rather expensive as scarves go. Then I saw a Sewing with Nancy episode: Sew Amazing Scarves. You can read about it here. And she was talking about the O Sew Easy scarf. Well, that’s pretty much the same as the Pirose. I decided I’d make a clone.

Here’s one of my originals.

Pirose

I really love this scarf. And I often wear it just like this – on the diagonal. I find it a fun and flirty this way to wear it. I cut out my clone after making a pattern, and then tried a few ways to finish the edges. Nancy says you can just overlock it with a serger, but I prefer the original finish on it – a serged rolled hem done with woolly nylon thread.

Here’s my clone.

Pirose copy

The edges are still unfinished as of yet. But not because of lack of trying on my part. I went to the fabric store and bought some woolly nylon to try in my sewing machine. I’ve read a few times that the bobbin is the problem area using woolly nylon in a sewing machine. That was not the case for me. For me, the upper thread kept breaking. I started entertaining ideas of a hand-sewn rolled hem, but didn’t act on that.

Then I decided to call a friend – and just like on the TV show, I hit the jackpot! My friend, whose husband happens to be a Producer, had a serger I could borrow.

How does the hubby fit in? Well, he produced a sewing show for a few years, and the machines went with him when the show was done. Doesn’t that sound like a dream come true?

I went to pick up the serger and my friend said she wasn’t in any hurry to get it back, but I could just keep it at my house. She said she didn’t even know how to use it!

Serger

Here’s the newest member of my sewing family. I can tell you, I’m really hoping it lives here for years! This is a Janome 1110DX.

My friend and I continued to chat and she said she had another machine I might want to take too. I asked her what it was and she said it was called Cover Pro. I’m sure my mouth fell open. I could not believe what I was hearing. Not only was I going home with a serger, but also a cover stitch machine? Really, I hit the jackpot!

Here’s the other newest member of my sewing family. This is a Janome CoverPro 1000CP. This one I’m buying from her so it can stay forever.

Cover Pro

Oh, I am such a happy sewer right now! Or is it sewist? I read on another blog a suggestion for sewster. That sounded fun. Regardless, I’m really happy!

I found the manuals online and printed them off so I have a hard copy to help me through any things I don’t remember. I haven’t had a serger for years. And the one I did have years ago had problems. I remember taking it back to the dealer to be fixed at least three times. And the last time I had it in, I mentioned I’d had the same issue repaired already. They looked it up and sure enough, I had taken it in more than once. At that point, they told me I could exchange the machine for a new one! That was amazing, but by that time I had really fallen out of love with the serger. It came home with me, and sat. I finally sold it to a dear young woman who was getting into sewing.

Back to this serger, I cleaned it out, and started it up and ran a test strip of material through it. Boy, it needed some TLC. I got some oil and oiled it. It does sound a bit better, but I’m still concerned about how it sounds.

Hmm, I’m not sure when that scarf will be finished at this point but I’m really looking forward to learning all about and using these newest members of my sewing family.

Happy creating!

A Small Parade of Panties

September 16, 2014December 27, 2017 ~ Michelle ~ 4 Comments

I’ve been asked why I don’t make panties. The funny thing about that is ever so many years ago when I was first pregnant, I hated the maternity panties that were available, so I made all my own panties, as well as some of my own maternity clothes. Then I don’t know what happened to making panties. I just stopped.

The question stayed with me. I have to admit, one reason I hadn’t made panties yet is because I love my cotton panties. But I also love lace on them and I can’t always find that. As well, I’d looked around for cotton to make panties and just wasn’t sure about so many sources, so I hadn’t ordered any. A quick call to Bra Makers Supply and I found out their Cotton Spandex Double knit is just what I’m wanting. It’s a blend of 94% cotton, 6% Lycra. I’m thinking it will be perfect. You can find it here. It also comes in the same colors as their Power net and Duoplex – I do like things to be matchy matchy.

I have a few panty patterns in my collection, so decided I’d try a couple of them to see which ones I preferred.

Here are the patterns I tried.

100_2414

The first one I tried is a throwback – high cut panties. I haven’t worn anything like this for years, but loved them way back in the day.

100_2401

I used some knit that was a gift from Naomi. Thank you, Naomi! These are a basic black knit with stretch lace elastic trim. The pattern is Kwik Sew 2075, view D. It was funny, when I was making these I would just start to do something, and then think, oh it’s been a while I better read the instructions. I’d read them, think yup, and keep going. It was amazing how much came back to me so quickly.

This high cut style is very comfortable on, but as I say, it’s been years since I’ve worn anything high cut. I think I now prefer something more of a hipster. So the next pattern I made was more along that style.

black grey

I really like these. These are very comfortable and almost the same as a favorite La Vie En Rose pair I’d saved. I loved the La Vie En Rose ones so much I cloned the pattern. However, this is almost exactly the same. Only very slight differences, so I went with the pattern. This is Kwik Sew 2286. The pattern is mainly for tops, with one pair of panties thrown in. There is no option for a different view or style for the panties, but I really like these, so don’t know that I’ll look elsewhere. These just might become my TNT basic pattern. But then, there are so many pretty options out there from which to choose.

And the last pair I made is a friend’s TNT pattern. It’s similar to the pattern above, but this one is Kwik Sew 2908.

100_2413

These are the same black material I used on the first pair I made, but these have a sweet pink trim on them to match the black Fantasie clone I made with black and pink lace. I did change this pattern slightly. For the ‘gusset’ (I don’t like crotch, just as I’ve read some don’t like panties. And I do know it’s not really a gusset), the pattern has the gusset attached at the front with a single seam at the back. I changed this so the gusset has two seams – front and back – and that way I could enclose the seams completely. I’ll show that in another posting.

And I still have a few other patterns I’ve collected I want to try. I’m thinking of making one of Merckwaerdigh’s patterns next. I have E-SH20 and E-SHL 30 of hers. I also have one of Stretch & Sew’s patterns. Not pictured here is Ezi-Sew Ladies’ Knickers pattern and two more Kwik Sew patterns, 2100 and 2868. Seriously, I have a pattern addiction! But it’s way more fun than the OPI nail polish addiction I had. (smile)

100_2415

One last panty resource I have is The Make & Fit Panties book from Bra Makers Supply. So now I’ve practiced a bit again, and I’ve found my source for cotton, I see more matching sets ahead.

Happy creating!

A Marathon of Muslins

September 9, 2014December 27, 2017 ~ Michelle ~ 4 Comments

I was so excited to finally have a bra that fit with the bridge going all the way back that I made a whole bunch of bra muslins to try on over that bra. I went through almost all of my patterns – there are a few that I likely won’t ever make – and I sewed up muslins for test fittings.

This first bra muslin I made was a brand new pattern just released. It was Orange Lingerie’s new pattern, the Marlborough pattern.

Marlborough

You can see here the fit looks like it will be really close and I won’t have to do very much in the way of alterations. The Marlborough doesn’t actually list my size in the size range, but I know all about finding the right size by the wire size. So using my ever-so-used BMM chart, I found the correct cup size to fit into my band.

Great! I marked the muslin where I’d need to reduce it a bit at the bottom where it overlaps the seam allowance on the actual bra, and pinned it to the pattern for when I’m ready to tackle making this bra.

Shelley

Next it was the Pin-Up Girls Shelley pattern. Again, the depth looks good, but it’s not perfect. I marked where the seam lines fell under the muslin, and I marked these right on the muslin. It’s now pinned to the pattern and ready for the alteration stage as well.

After Shelley, I did the Pin-Up Girls classic pattern.

PUG Classic

You can see I also wrote the pattern name and size on the muslin.

After I finished with my Pin-Up Girls, it was time to try a few of Merckwaerdigh’s patterns. This is where I had to do a re-do.

BHST2 B too small

I started with BHST2, but you can see the cup is too small in this size for me. It just won’t meet all those seam lines under it. I quickly traced off the next size up and that one was fine.

BHST2 B

This one gives me all the depth I need, and I’ll alter the pattern to fit my shape. Again, I marked on the muslin what changes I’ll have to make and pinned it to the pattern.

For some reason I didn’t trace of the CUPL-16 pattern I have. I must admit I was running out of steam by this point.

I did trace off my Sewy Rebecca. I wasn’t sure about the size, and the size I chose was actually too big. So my next muslin of this will be smaller.

Sewy R 1

You can see here the cup is clearly too big.

I was really tired after all this, but have a great place to tackle each of these bras now – one at a time.

Happy creating!

A New Cardigan

September 5, 2014December 27, 2016 ~ Michelle

It was way back in February when I heard about this cardigan. Andrea from Satin Bird Designs posted about it on her blog saying how she was thinking of making it. She also said how it was rated best pattern of 2013 on Pattern Review. I picked up the pattern right away – it’s McCall’s 6844. Like Andrea, I lost weight and had to give up my favorite cardigan. I bought one a year ago, and didn’t love it like I’d loved my old, now-too-big one.

But this cardigan looked charming. I knew I’d love it the moment I saw it. I made View C, the same one shown on the front.

100_2417

Here’s my version. I bought this material back in the spring, and am so glad I did. I actually didn’t have quite enough when I cut it all out. I had to go and buy more material for the facing, and unfortunately this material was gone. Since I couldn’t find the same material for the facing, I decided to do some color-blocking.

100_2418

Here’s the underside of the facing showing. I really love that pop of deep color coming out! It was between this and bright red. I decided on this because there’s a black design in it, where the red was a solid color. I thought the black would pull the two materials together more.

100_2419

This shows the detailing on both materials closer up. I really love this!

100_2420

Here’s the jacket from the side. I love the peplum on it. It fits perfectly too. I pulled out my sloper and compared the length for the waist and for the arms. I thought it would be a good way to finally use my sloper.

100_2421

And from the back. I really love this cardigan. I wore it to work the day after I finished it and had that wonderful experience when someone asks, ‘Where did you get that?’ Isn’t that the best feeling? And I’ve worn it a few times since that first day, and every time I wear it, I’m asked where I got it. That really is the best feeling.

My cardigan is looser fitting than the model’s on the front of the pattern. I’m two different sizes, so I chose the larger size to make it not as fitted. I thought about what I wanted and didn’t want a close fitting cardigan. Hers doesn’t look like it would wrap around her much at all. It looks quite fitted. Mine does wrap around a bit at the front, and I like that too. I have a few RTW cardigans that aren’t designed to wrap around the body at all, and barely touch at the center of the body. I was told they’re called Toppers. I prefer a little more coverage and being able to wrap myself up if I feel chilly.

As well, the pattern is listed as Petite, but the pattern pieces are all marked where to shorten for Petite. I made the size without adjusting for petite although I did shorten the arms where they were marked to shorten for Petite.

I like this pattern so much, I’m entertaining View B or D next.

I’m adding a P.S. to this post. I had a request for a picture of me in my cardigan. So, here are a couple of pictures of me in my cardi.

me and cardi front