I was so excited to finally have a bra that fit with the bridge going all the way back that I made a whole bunch of bra muslins to try on over that bra. I went through almost all of my patterns – there are a few that I likely won’t ever make – and I sewed up muslins for test fittings.
This first bra muslin I made was a brand new pattern just released. It was Orange Lingerie’s new pattern, the Marlborough pattern.
You can see here the fit looks like it will be really close and I won’t have to do very much in the way of alterations. The Marlborough doesn’t actually list my size in the size range, but I know all about finding the right size by the wire size. So using my ever-so-used BMM chart, I found the correct cup size to fit into my band.
Great! I marked the muslin where I’d need to reduce it a bit at the bottom where it overlaps the seam allowance on the actual bra, and pinned it to the pattern for when I’m ready to tackle making this bra.
Next it was the Pin-Up Girls Shelley pattern. Again, the depth looks good, but it’s not perfect. I marked where the seam lines fell under the muslin, and I marked these right on the muslin. It’s now pinned to the pattern and ready for the alteration stage as well.
After Shelley, I did the Pin-Up Girls classic pattern.
You can see I also wrote the pattern name and size on the muslin.
After I finished with my Pin-Up Girls, it was time to try a few of Merckwaerdigh’s patterns. This is where I had to do a re-do.
I started with BHST2, but you can see the cup is too small in this size for me. It just won’t meet all those seam lines under it. I quickly traced off the next size up and that one was fine.
This one gives me all the depth I need, and I’ll alter the pattern to fit my shape. Again, I marked on the muslin what changes I’ll have to make and pinned it to the pattern.
For some reason I didn’t trace of the CUPL-16 pattern I have. I must admit I was running out of steam by this point.
I did trace off my Sewy Rebecca. I wasn’t sure about the size, and the size I chose was actually too big. So my next muslin of this will be smaller.
You can see here the cup is clearly too big.
I was really tired after all this, but have a great place to tackle each of these bras now – one at a time.
Happy creating!
I wish I knew all about finding the right size by wire type!
Was the good fit bra one you made or a purchase? I have a couple of great fitting purchased bras where the
Wire has popped out, and I keep meaning to copy them. Any bra I’ve ever made from a pattern has been pretty, but pointless.
Hi Alison,
The Bra Makers Manual I has a wire conversion chart in there that I use all the time. For example, a 34 G uses the same wire as a 36F, and a 38E, and a 40D. As the number goes up, the cup size will go down.
The bra was the Fantasie clone I made, and I finally have a really good fit. I’d really encourage you to clone those bras if they’re a great fit. And then those patterns you make will help you know your which size to make in other patterns. Or if they’re a great fit and you’re happy with them, they’d be wonderful to make instead of a purchased pattern.
I really like you method of muslining a bra. What a smart idea! I’m 2/3 done with Marlborough bra #2 for me, my 1st was too big. I’m nervous #2 isn’t gonna be just right either. But dang it will be pretty.
Hi Kathy,
I got the idea of making the muslins from something Sigrid posted on Pattern Review – she showed how she checked the size of a new pattern against an existing bra doing this. I thought it was brilliant! I certainly have made enough bras I thought would fit. From now on I’m going to make a muslin… or two before I do anything else.
I hope your Marlborough #2 is wearable. I look forward to seeing it.