Fitting the Omega Shape

Here’s a little history of my learning curve on the Omega shape.

Way back in 2012 I wrote a post called The Dawn of the Alteration Age. That was the beginning of my journey in understanding and learning about the Omega shape and the alterations needed to help fit it. In that blog I wrote:

After a few bras, I made a call to Bra-Makers Supply with a question. You see, every bra I wore, whether RTW or one I’d made, all left a line or imprint about an inch or so under the bust line. I was simply wondering what caused this.

Beverly, the owner of Bra-Makers Supply, and author of two manuals on bra-making gave me my answer: the underwires I was using were either too big or too small.

Hmm, too big or too small really wasn’t the answer I was wanting, but it did help me to realize one thing – my wires weren’t fitting. They were the same wires I’d worn in RTW bras.

So, what is the Omega shape? What is this mysterious breast shape all about? Well, I can’t say every woman with an Omega shape will be the same, but there is a common thread: the actual breast is larger than the root of the breast. If you’re wondering what that mean in terms of bra-making – it means the wire/cradle will not match the cup size. For me, I need a 36 wire/cradle, but a cup that would normally take a 42 wire/cradle.

These two sized parts don’t go together easily as they don’t match in size, so there have to be alterations to get that larger cup into that smaller cradle.

Here’s an older photo showing the different length between the two parts. The cup is on the bottom.

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In this photo, you can see the cup extending out past where the cradle and the wire will end.

There are a couple of alterations to help ‘ease’ that cup into the cradle. One method that I’ve used quite a bit is to run a gathering line of stitches along the lower edge of the cup where it will fit into the cradle, then gather. You’ll have to eye-ball it a bit – gather, pin it in and see if you need to adjust the gathers or not. I tend to over-gather, so usually have to let it out a bit.

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I find this method the fastest and easiest alteration. It does leave a few small puckers in the bottom of the cup, but seriously, who’s looking there?

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As well, I think the puckering is a bit exaggerated on Catherine, as she’s not the same size as me. When I’m wearing the bras, I really don’t notice any puckering.

Another method of removing that excess is one I used when I first started making the alterations – I was trimming the corners of all the cup pieces to take out that inch or so of excess along the bottom of the cup. Basically making little darts all along the seams. The Shelley pattern was good for taking that excess out. But I had to be very careful – although I didn’t need the fullness at the seam line, I did all the fullness in the cup. And to be honest, it was a lot of work.

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The benefit is it’s a much neater looking seam line. I’ve found it’s not worth all the fussing with the seams. I’ve found just using a little steam on the bra after I’ve sewn it really makes most of the little puckers disappear.

One last thing to consider when dealing with the Omega shape is the wires. Often a Vertical wire is recommended, and many women find that the perfect wire for them.

Here’s a great photo showing two wires that are the same size – one Vertical which is much narrower, and one is a regular long wire.

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That’s quite a difference. As helpful as that Vertical wire is for many women dealing with an Omega shape – I needed more help. There’s a big difference between 36 and 42 wires. I needed both the narrower shape, but also the length and I wasn’t getting that with the smaller Vertical wires. I found Flexible wires were perfect for me.

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In the above photo you can see how much narrower that Flexible wire can be. I found the Flexible wires to be perfect for me in dealing with the Omega shape. Along with the alterations I make to the cup (to help it fit into the smaller cradle), I’ve found using the Flexible wires really made a huge difference and made my bras (finally) fit me perfectly.

Happy creating!

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17 thoughts on “Fitting the Omega Shape

  1. Thanks for another great post! I began sewing my own bras many years ago, prior to the “omega shape” term and the abundance of resources now available. At that time, I was a petite plus size. I knew cups with more projection and a smaller wire, so I created my own patterns, using Lee Ann Burgess’ “Making Beautiful Bras” as a guide. I recall once starting with RTW bra having 2″ extra space around the wire line to gain cup depth, and redrafting the cup and band… basically subtracted the extra cup space at bottom and outer side and moved to the band. You can imagine how agonizing the RTW wires were on my ribs! I have used both vertical wires and flexible wires and agree completely with your assessment. I have Beverly’s Bra-Maker’s manuals and Anne St Clair’s book, plus many others in my collection, now. I also follow the blog posts and bra-making groups, enjoying what each contributes!

    1. Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed it. This is such a great time to be making our own bras, isn’t it? There really are so many great resources now. Lee Ann Burgess’ book isn’t in my collection yet… I do want to get it too. Wow! You did so great to figure out all you needed to do on your own before all the resources – good for you!

  2. This was an excellent post for me. I’ve been wrestling with this problem forever. I do make my own bras and always have this empty fabric below my cup. I need the larger wire to fit the size cup needed, but things are not right. I have a small person frame with breasts that project beyond my frame on the sides. Where can I find these vertical or flexible wires? I don’t see them on Bra Makers Supply.

  3. Wow this is a really helpful post! I buy my bras from a specialist shop due to my very small back size and very large cup size – to top it off I too have omegas. I never thought I’d be able to make my own bras because of it but now I realize maybe making my own is the way forwards!

    1. Thank you, Amy-June. I was buying my bras in a specialty store too, and paying $150+ for them. And they weren’t comfortable! Making my own, and realizing all the alterations I need to fit me, I know I’ll never be happy buying a RTW bra again. I’m so glad you’re thinking of making your own.

  4. Awesome post Michelle! Your information is so helpful and I really like your technique of gathering. Will try that in my next omega bra as the dart thing is a lot of work, as you say.

    1. Thank you, Mrs. Weaver! Gathering in the excess really is the easiest solution, and as you can see quite a bit can be gathered without being overly noticeable.

  5. I know this is kind of an old post, but thank you so much for it! I’m also an omega working on getting the perfect fit in my handmade bras. I began to suspect that I have a narrower breast root than one would expect from my breast volume (not a narrower ribcage, but actual root), & I’m hoping that experimenting with smaller wires will help.

    1. Ciara, I was told by a professional bra-maker to raise my arm over my head to see the real size of my breast root. I was surprised! When I next ordered wires, I ordered the next 4 sizes smaller, to try each one. It was very clear the wire I was using was way too big. Let me know how your experimenting turns out.

      1. The smaller wire was a success! I made the Pin-Up Girls Shelley in a 40D, which would ordinarily take a size 44 long wire. I had to tweak the fit on the bra a little (added 1/2″ to the back & 1/4″ to the upper cup, but the fit is near-perfect & the addition of a size 40 vertical wire is the finishing touch. I’ve never had such a well-fitting, comfortable bra in my life. Now to make a thousand more!

        1. Ciara, I’m am so happy for you! Congratulations!!!!! Honestly, I no longer know that feeling of coming home and wanting to take my bra off. A well-fitting bra is very comfortable. Way to go!

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