Month: April 2019

Platinum and Pink

~ Michelle ~ 6 Comments

I have a very pretty platinum and pink Ruby to share with you today.I really like the Ruby pattern. It gives a round cup shape, which for me, is perfect.

I’ve been saving this lace for a while too. It’s a lovely delicate grey with pink detail. I knew I’d love it with platinum duoplex, and I do.

Here’s a close-up of the upper cup showing the lace. Isn’t that pretty?

Changing Things Up

To make my Ruby into a lace upper cup like this, I’ve changed my pattern a bit. I cut the lace out without the strap tab that’s on the pattern. I just take my ruler and make a straight edge along the top – from the bridge all the way to the underarm. Then because I like a strap tab and still need something on which I can connect the strap or ring, I cut out the upper cup again with the strap tab in sheer cup lining.

You can see the sheer cup lining meeting the strap in the photo below. I’ve added a fabric strap to this one too. I do like a fabric strap, but am thinking I might still have fun playing with different straps for my Rubies. We’ll see what I come up with for straps going forward.

Here’s the side view of my Ruby.  You can just barely see the pink elastics I’ve used on this bra. I decided the pink was prettier. I also liked carrying the color around to the back of the bra. One last little detail.

Bows

One of the wonderful things about making our own bras is discovering the things we like and don’t like.

One of the things I’ve found I like is wider bows. I don’t love the thinner ones like on the left in the picture below. Now, those bows on the left are adorable because they’re polka dot, but I still prefer wider bows, like on the right in the photo below. I didn’t have a wider pink bow, but did have a narrow one. I decided to change the style of the bow by untying it, and ironing it flat. Then I folded it over, and attached the grey bow over it.I love how the two colors of the bra are in the bow too.

I have a few more Ruby bras planned for Spring.

Happy creating!

Cut and Sew Foam Class

~ Michelle

Another class I took this Spring was the Cut and Sew Foam bra class at Central Sewing, again with Jeanette of Sew Uplifting.

In this class Jeanette was teaching us cut and sew foam drafting and construction techniques with our personal fitted bra pattern. Most of the class sewed a foam bra from our drafted patterns. We all also received the Ruby bra pattern. Jeanette brought in her own sample foam bra, and we all had to inspect every detail of the bra. One detail I noticed was she used jewelry findings for the rings on the front. I loved that detail!The fabric on this is so pretty.

Pattern Problems

 I have to say, I really didn’t enjoy the first day of our class. My drafted pattern, which fits, wasn’t converting to a foam pattern easily.

Here’s my drafted bra. This fits me perfectly.  To make the pattern work for foam, all we had to do was cut off some of the seam allowances. I did that. I did that three times.

Each time I did it, I kept getting the same result. I was shorter along the cross cup seam on the top than on the bottom. My pattern pieces were not fitting together. Jeanette looked at my pattern pieces, and she tried to make them work. She couldn’t figure out what was wrong with those pieces either. For whatever reason, those pattern pieces would not line up.

It was so frustrating. I was using my original pattern, and had transferred all the markings from it. I cut off the correct seams. It should have worked, but it didn’t. It was out by a 1/2-inch!

So, I finally decided I’d just add that 1/2″ difference at the underarm side, and hope for the best.

My Foam Bra

We used a lovely scuba for the foam bras, and they were all so pretty. Here’s mine. I’ve used the red and black floral scuba with all red findings, including red foam on the inside.

Here’s the side view, showing more of the red. One small disappointment was my band turned out to be too big. It’s not fitting well on the display either.Looking at it when I was sewing it, I thought it might be, so I just have the hook and eye tacked on here. I’ll take that off and trim off a bit from each side. After I measure and compare to a well-fitting band, of course.

Class Details

     One of the very pretty features we learned in our class was to do a rolled edge on our bras.Isn’t that a neat and pretty neckline finish? Below you can see it from the inside of the cup.We also learned how to stabilize our strap elastics to give better support. We’ve sewn non-stretch seam tape to the inside of our straps at the front. It’s nice and soft, and helps keep those elastics from stretching.

My Adjustment

 You can see here in the photo below how I added that 1/2″ to my foam upper cup.Have you been wondering how that adjustment turned out?

Well, let me just say I had two choices – I could have made it a little longer, or I could have made it a little shorter. My logic was shorter wouldn’t be better because it could end up too small.

And the results? My bra is 1/2″ too big at the underarm.

Sigh.

The good news is the bra is still wearable, and I’ve adjusted my foam pattern to account for that 1/2″ extra at the underarm. Why it wasn’t all lining up, I’m not sure I’ll ever know, but the pattern has been corrected and is good for my next bra now.

Happy creating!

Supportive Swimsuit Class

~ Michelle

I took another class at Central Sewing. The Supportive Swimsuit class. Jeanette, of Sew Uplifting, was the instructor.

First Attempts

Last year when the Bra-Makers Challenge was Swimwear, I did try making a swimsuit on my own.

I had the Craftsy (now Bluprint) class Sewing Swimsuits, and my pattern. I thought I’d do just fine.

 The first thing I did was figure out what size to make, and I made a muslin.I made this muslin in cotton Lycra, and all seemed to be going well.

Then, after making a few adjustments to my pattern, I cut into my swim material.This is where I started to think something wasn’t right. It was too small on the mannequin. I’m bigger than the mannequin. There was a problem.

At this point, seeing it was going to be too small, I didn’t continue sewing to see how it was all going to go together.And I didn’t enter the Challenge that month.

Fast forward a year.

The Class

The first thing I learned in the class was my measurements were spot on last year. That was good news.

As well, it seemed the alterations Jeanette was adding to my pattern were very similar to the ones I’d made. However, Jeanette sized the whole pattern up to my hip size, which is one size larger than my bust size. Then made adjustments to make the top smaller. I didn’t do that last year.

Fabric

   Our class cost included the pattern, swimsuit liner, and the finding kit, but not the actual swim fabric. I could have brought some from home, but chose instead to buy some from Jeanette in class. I chose this amazing black with fuchsia detailing. Isn’t this stunning?Now, I have to share a story with you. Jeanette brings suitcases full of bra kits and finding kits, plus other goodies to these classes. And we all descend on them like vultures. Honestly. Everything in the class comes to a stop when those cases open.

I saw this material, and another woman saw it at the same time. We agreed no one else was going to come near our material and we put it aside. There was a sweet Minnie Mouse panel that was also getting that same attention.

A Positive Note

There was one positive from last year’s attempt at a bathing suit – I made the bra that goes inside the suit last year, and it fit perfectly. Even more good news is I kept it thinking I’d use it again. And I did.I was able to bring in my swim bra and use that inside my new swimsuit. So last year wasn’t a complete wash.

My Swimsuit

     I’ve tried to pin this on so it fits a little better, but it really doesn’t fit my display. I have a long torso. Oh, that front panel is amazing.

Here’s the side view: The suit has lovely princess seams. We used the Pin-up Girls Denise pattern.And the back view: I love the keyhole opening at the back. It’s lovely, supportive, and it fits! This is the first time a one piece has ever been long enough for me.

Here’s mine and the rest of the swimsuits from the class: It was a great class. And I’m already looking forward to using my new pattern, and making a Tankini.

Happy creating!

Wireless Freedom – BMS March Challenge

~ Michelle

The March BMS Challenge is all about going wireless, and we’re not talking WiFi.

This month is about Marching toward freedom – freedom from wires! Wireless freedom, as they say. So the bras you make this month won’t use any underwires. Let’s see all those creative bralettes, Ingrids, and your wire-free conversions from the Classic or Jewel series of bras.

The first bra I’m submitting to the Challenge is one made during a class. The class was the Sports Bra (The Many Faces of Ingrid) class at Central Sewing. It was another class Jeanette, of Sew Uplifting, was teaching.

My Ingrid

Here’s my new Ingrid. Jeanette brought the materials for us to use. We had our choice of this nice bright scuba on my Ingrid, a more pastel floral, or duoplex. I chose the brighter fabric, most of the class chose the pastel floral, and one student made a duoplex Ingrid.Oh, I like this. It’s nice and bright with a lot of pop! It would be pretty hard to mirror scuba prints, but I did try to get as much of the same pink as possible in my cups.

I made a change in my center front. Instead of using power net, I used power mesh for a different look.

Omega Adjustments

Having Jeanette fit me, and seeing the changes she made to the cup pattern helped me learn something. It was great to see what alterations she made on this cup style. The cup is very different from the PUG Classic, or Shelley, and those are the patterns I’ve worked with the most.

Here’s my bra from the side. I chose to finish my Ingrid with wide elastic rather than lingerie elastic.The wider elastic really makes it feel secure when it’s on. This elastic is called Comfort Elastic, and it really is comfortable.

And the back.Just for fun, I added Fuchsia rings and sliders for a little more color on the back.

I’ve worn this bra a few times now, and it really is comfortable. I’d also promised Em another bralette, so had to make time for that too.

A New Sweet Sixteen

The Pin-Up Girls Sweet Sixteen pattern was revised, and of course I had to try it. (You all know I have a pattern addiction.)

Here are the two patterns. The older one is on the left, and the new one is on the right.Here’s Em’s Sweet Sixteen in all lace.  This is a lovely red, beige & tan lace. It’s very pretty. I made sure to save  some of this for me.

  Here’s the bralette from the side.And here’s the back. Em wanted a more decorative back, but until I know this size is just right for her, she’s only getting a lace back. We’ll do some fancier back details on the next one.I finished this bralette off with some purchased straps. These were marked down to 25 cents. I grabbed a few of them thinking even if I only used the rings and sliders, which are metal, they’d be worth it. I’m glad I was able to use the straps too though.

Em has tried on her new bralette, and tells me she needs a larger band and cup size. So as it turns out, this is the second bralette I’ve made for a friend of Em’s.

I’m off to sew more Fitting bras.

Happy creating!