Comparing Kits

I shared with you the lovely laces and lingerie kits my husband brought me from Kantjeboord when he was in Amsterdam. That was such a treat! As I was looking at them, I thought I’d share how the kits differ from kits I’m used to buying.

Kit Differences

 For the most part, I order from Bra-makers Supply. Their kits are what I like and what I’m used to using. Let me share with you how the BMS kits differ from the Kantjeboord kits my hubby brought me.

1

Firstly, BMS has a few options for kits. There are Bra kits (this kit includes bra findings), Trios (this doesn’t include findings), Quartets (this includes a choice of findings), and they have panty kits too. Kantjeboord has a lingerie kit and it includes findings for a bra and panties.

I was looking at the BMS website, and here’s what they offer when you purchase a Quartet:You can choose the size of findings you want, and then there are four options for those findings depending on the pattern you’re making.

2

  As I just mentioned, BMS offers Small and Large findings kits. You pick which size of findings you need based on your bra size. The Kantjeboord kits have one size of findings in their kits. What I have come to know as ‘Small’. I don’t know whether they have Large findings at all.

Here is a  photo showing the larger elastic from a Large BMS findings kit and the smaller ones from the Kantjeboord kit. The elastics in the Kantjeboord kits are the same size as the upper band elastics in the Large BMS kits. The elastic is 1/2″or 13 mm; or this would be the size of bottom band elastics in a Small findings kit.

3

BMS kits have upper and lower band elastics of differing widths. The Kantjeboord has one size of elastic in their kits – and a lot of it. I’m thinking it must be used for the waist and leg openings of panties as well.

4

BMS has ‘firm’ and ‘soft’ elastics. Their findings kits usually contain ‘firm’ elastics, however, you can make up your own findings kit with ‘soft’ elastics by buying everything individually. The Kantjeboord elastics are all ‘soft’. The ‘soft’ and ‘firm’ refer to the amount of stretch from what I’ve been told.

5

Another difference with the findings is BMS has all one color for their findings kits. Kantjeboord has two colors in each of the three kits I have here. Purple and black were in the first, brown and purple in the second, and pink and silver in the third – all colors complimenting the lace in each kit. You could do this with supplies at BMS – make your own findings kit using different colors, but the pre-made kits are all one color.

6

 Both kits have strap elastic included. You can see below an example of the second color in the Kantjeboord kits. Above the elastic was dark pink, but here the strap elastic is silver. The Kantjeboord elastic would be the same size as what is found in the Small findings kit from BMS – 1/2″ strap elastic.

  7

BMS kits are for bras or bralettes primarily – they sell panty kits (and other kits) separately. The Kantjeboord kits are for bras and panties. The first thing I noticed when I opened the kits was there was a lot of lace. Two meters of lace in each Kantjeboord kit! That’s enough for a bra and panties. There is also a lot of elastic in the Kantjeboord kits, and cotton gusset material.

8

BMS kits have duoplex and power net in them. The Kantjeboord kit has some firm Lycra in the kit. Again, I’m thinking the Lycra must be for the bra cups, the bra back, and the panty too.

Below on the left is a Trio from BMS showing the duoplex and power net with the lace. On the right is the lace and Lycra from one of the kits from Kantjeboord. There’s more material in the Kantjeboord kit, again, I think to make a bra and panty.

9

BMS findings kits have either 2 x 2 hooks and eyes, or 3 x 3 hooks and eyes, depending the size of kit you order. They also have matching metal rings and sliders (again either Large or Small), a bow, and trim for the upper cup. The Kantjeboord kit has some sheer cup lining, cotton for the panty gusset, three bows, 2 x 2 hooks and eyes, smaller rings and sliders (some plastic ones) and some upper cup elastic.

Here’s the sheer cup lining and cotton for the gusset from the Kantjeboord kit.And here are the hooks & eyes, rings and sliders, and bows from both kits. You can see in the darker pink from Kantjeboord, the rings and sliders are plastic.You can also see the two colors used again in the Kantjeboord’s kits with the dark pink hooks and eyes, and the silver bows.

Lastly, here you can see the trim in the BMS kits, and that narrow upper cup elastic in the Kantjeboord’s kits.The bag-full of upper cup elastic my hubby brought me home is a little wider than this one pictured above, but not much wider.   Both suppliers are wonderful, and all of us bra-makers would be lost without suppliers like them! Neither kit is right or wrong – they are just different.

I’m used to the kits from Bra-Makers Supply – I love duoplex and power net! However, I do like some of the differences I’ve found in the Kantjeboord kits. I like all that lace! I like the upper cup elastic, and the matching sheer cup lining.

Happy creating!

Collage Quilting

Have you heard of Collage Quilting? I hadn’t. I’ll be the first to admit, I’m not much of a quilter. I think I started a quilt many years ago. I have no idea what happened to it. I do have a bunch of squares cut out too. I’m slowly adding more squares to that little stash, but I’ve never made a quilt. I have made a number of very simple lap quilts and quillows, but I don’t consider that quilting.

There are a few things that have grabbed my attention from one look, and collage quilting is one of them.

Look at this! I took one look at this and I started searching. This is a Laura Heine collage quilt pattern, and it’s so adorable! I love how unique it is.

When I looked for her patterns, look what I found:Oh! I LOVE it!

The links to the patterns are in the photos in case you fall in love like I did. And I’m only showing you a few of her patterns.

I had to get the pincushion! In fact, I found a local one-day course and have been working on this pincushion quilt. I was cutting out flowers for it when I was in the mountains last month.

This one is adorable. But I can’t buy them all. So I’m working on the pincushion for now.Just gorgeous!

Even though I’m working on the pincushion, there’s one pattern I love even more. But I wanted to start smaller and get a little practice in first. Look at this!This is over-the-top gorgeous. I did buy the pattern for this one, and will slowly (not as slowly as I’m amassing quilt squares) buy fabrics to make this gorgeous quilt.

My Pincushion

  Again, never having quilted before, I was intimidated to even start this. There was some prep work that needed to be done ahead of the class. Cutting out flowers and other elements to add to our quilts. That wasn’t hard. Then there was making the background. That was daunting.

I finally gave myself a mental push and made a simple pieced background. It turns out I did more work for this background than I needed. The backgrounds can be collaged too.

Here’s how my Pincushion was taking shape before the class.

One of the neat things about these collage quilts is this pincushion isn’t stuck down yet. It has Steam-a-Seam 2 on the back which makes it tacky, and it sticks. But until I iron it down, it can be moved around! That was very helpful in the class.

Collage Class

Last weekend was the collage class. It was taught by Terry Rowland. She’s amazing. She brought a number of her quilts to show us, and was so helpful instructing us all individually, and as a class. One of the things she told me right away was no straight lines.

I had straight lines in my pincushion.I’ve learned my lesson, and to cover this up, I’ve collaged over those straight edges.No more straight lines. At least not visible ones.

A collage quilt is definitely not a project you can complete in a day. I had a simple background done, most of my pincushion, and all my collage elements fused with Steam-a-Seam 2 and cut out. After working on it all day in class, I was only to the point of ironing it all in place.

Here’s my collage quilt after the class. It will take a little longer to finish it up. I’m so very happy with it so far.There’s quite a difference in the quilt already. The before-class, and after-class photos are below.This still needs a backing, some basic quilting done to it, and the edges bound. I’m not quite sure when I’ll have this finished, but I’m loving it already  and look forward to working on it more.

Happy creating!

A Poppy Bralette for Em

This post is short and sweet. After testing the Poppy bralette in larger sizes, I was asked to test it in the smaller size. Smaller sizes won’t work for me, but will work for my son’s girlfriend, Em.

Materials

I used some lovely materials from Libelle Sewing.

I used this lace.I really like this one.

And I used a printed mesh from Libelle as well.

Power net is a little too strong and snug for Em, but this mesh is perfect! And it’s pretty. I’d really like to find some printed power net. Ooh, polka dot or floral would be nice!

The band and strap elastics all came from Libelle.

 Em’s Poppy

I made the smallest testing size available for Em. A 6 C/D.

Here’s Em’s Poppy. She was right in-between two sizes for her cup size, so I measured between the C/D and DD/E and cut out a half size for the cups. The cups fit her perfectly. Unfortunately, the band on this is just a little bit too tight for Em. She could use one size larger for the band. She still took it home with her though. She thought it was so pretty.

It turns out she gave it to an even-more petite friend, and it fit her perfectly. She loved it so much, I got a marriage proposal!

Here’s the inside. The Poppy’s seams are almost completely enclosed, so it’s pretty inside too. And all those enclosed seams make it really comfortable too.I really love how neat it is on the inside.

Poppy is Available

The Poppy in smaller sizes is available today!

You can find it here.

If you want to see more Poppy Bralettes, check out the House Morrighan Makers’ Facebook group, or their Instagram page.

Happy creating!

Kantjeboord

A couple of years ago, my hubby went to Germany for his work, and I had some lovely items sent to his hotel from Sewy. That was a treat!

This past month my hubby went to Amsterdam. Do you know what lingerie shop is in Amsterdam? Kantjeboord! This time he went to the shop for me.

Planning His Shopping Trip

 We planned a way for him to show me what he was looking at, and for us shop together. We were thinking a video call on What’s App could work. And it did. He called me at a terrible hour of the morning, and I blearily shopped with him.

One of the things I haven’t been able to find is thin elastics used for the upper cup. Do you see the thin elastic behind the lace in this photo?  Below is a photo showing the inside of a bra. It’s showing the Gothic arch, but it also shows the elastics I use along my upper cup. I first used this elastic when making the Sewy Rebecca pattern. I really liked how the upper cup fit this way, so I do this for all my lace-cupped bras.

Here’s what the elastic looks like. It’s very narrow, and fine. I’ve checked everywhere for it. I have a little left from a grab bag I bought years ago from Merckwaerdigh’s now-closed Ebay store. Seeing as I use it all the time, I don’t want to run out. So I’ve been looking. All I have left in that grab bag are colors I’m not so thrilled about using.

I sent this photo to Kantjeboord, and they confirmed they carry it. They have lots of it. So my hubby helped me pick out some elastics.

What he brought me home is a little wider than what I’ve had, but it’s still nice and thin.I wonder how long all this will last?

 Beautiful Gifts

Other than the upper cup elastic, my hubby came home from Amsterdam with some beautiful gifts for me. Four meters of lace and three lingerie kits.

I had asked him to take lots of pictures when he was there, but he went by cab, and left the cab running while he ran into shop! He didn’t take a single photo, but he went to Kantjeboord for me!

Here are the laces he brought back for me.

This first one is a deeper pink in person. It’s gorgeous! It’s very sheer.   The second lace he brought me is this one:He also picked out three kits with me. He kept holding them up and asking me if I liked them. Well, silly. I liked them all. And he spoiled me even a little more than I asked. I asked for two kits, and he said he was there, so we should get three.

The first kit is this gorgeous lace with black Lycra.It’s so pretty.

The second kit is a gorgeous sheer multi-colored lace paired with purple Lycra. That’s purple sheer cup lining in the upper right side of the photo!And the third kit is a coral pink and grey lace with coral Lycra – with pink sheer cup lining. Oh my! They’re all so lovely! My hubby did really well.

Are you wondering how the kits differ from kits I’m used to buying here in Canada? I’ll share that in an up-coming post.

Happy creating!

Bra-Makers Challenge – August

I made a matching set for my August Challenge –  Lacy Days of Summer! “Use 2 laces to create a bra, bralette, panties or corsets. Two is better than one!”

I’ve used my drafted panty pattern and two laces.These are my Hipster draft. I made these from black cotton Lycra, and two laces. The multi-colored lace is very light-weight, so that is backed with CL, but the pink/mauve lace is a firmer lace and is on its own with no backing. Because it’s firmer, I didn’t add elastic to the waist at the front either.

In fact, I think these qualify for three laces! There’s a narrow black lace trim at the legs and waist. That’s three laces in one panty!

Here’s the back of the panty.I fully meant to finish the back of the panty the same as the front, with both laces. However, I sewed these up on my trip to the mountains and didn’t remember to either: a) cut the lace out and pack it, or b) pack it. So these will only have the one lace on the back.

A Lacy Poppy

I combined testing the Poppy Bralette with the August Challenge to make myself a sweet lacy set.

Here’s my Poppy. The bralette can’t be part of my challenge entry because it’s not a Pin-up Girls pattern, and I didn’t draft it from BMS information, but I still wanted to make myself a set.For this Poppy, I made a smaller band and larger cup size than the first two. This one fits me perfectly.

I also kept the scalloped edge of the lace on this.  Poppy is an easy sew, with generous sizing. And it’s really comfortable and although this one is stretch lace and power mesh, it’s still supportive.

My Lacy Set

  Here’s my self-drafted panty and my Poppy set.I really wondered how I would like two laces together, but I really like this. And only having one lace on the back of the panty? Well seeing it from the back with the bralette, it works much better this way!

Happy creating!

Panache Inspired

Inspiration

Recently I read an article by Who What Wear saying Boyshorts are going out of style. That won’t be terrible for me. Boyshorts aren’t the most flattering on me. I think they’re adorable, but they just don’t suit a curvy shape as well as they suit a less curvy shape. That’s probably why they’re called boyshorts.

The article showed a few up-coming styles and there was one I really liked.

The Panache Lingerie Quinn High Waist Brief: Oh! These are lovely.

I started looking for patterns that had similarities. Here’s what I found.

First, Daydream Patterns Nora Knickers.

This pattern has lace attached at the leg. It’s great because it attaches the lace the same way for the back. The front is different, but could probably easily be adapted to be the same as the Panache panties.

Another pattern I thought of is the Ohhh Lulu’s Betty High Waist Panties.  It’s quite a similar shape, and I’ve always adored the look of these panties..

Here are the three panties together.The Panache is in-between these two patterns, but is a bit closer in shape to the Betty. If you haven’t taken Beverly Johnson’s panty class on Craftsy and aren’t comfortable drafting your own pattern, either of these patterns would get you close.

My Master Pattern

I have taken Beverly’s class, so decided I would make my own Panache-inspired panty. I pulled out the master pattern I made using the Craftsy class Sewing Panties: Construction & Fit. I usually make Hipsters with my pattern, even though on my dress form they look like briefs.Although these come up to the form’s waist, they’re hipsters on me.

Pattern Adjustments

The first thing I did was add back the 2-inches I’d removed from the pattern’s waist height when I made them into Hipsters. The pattern is again a brief. Loving hipsters as I do, I decided to go with a brief rather than a high-waisted panty. We’ll see how much I love briefs before I try high-waisted.

Next, I added a seam to the front/side. I’m keeping the side seam too, but going to move it back to the side. My ‘side’ seam is moved forward so it doesn’t show. The purple line shows where the side seam would normally sit.

You can see in the photo above how the seam is moved to the front of the panty and not sitting right at the side.

The Panache panty has a back seam as well, but I’m not adding that. The only time I add a back seam is if I’m short on material. Otherwise, I prefer no seam for the back.

Next, I decided how much lace I wanted, and then added the lace detail to the pattern.

Here’s my pattern ready to get cut out.  Lastly, I added seam allowances to those new seams, and traced off my new pattern pieces.

I’m all ready to make my own Panache Inspired briefs.

Happy creating!

Mountain Getaway

We were heading to the mountains – for a whole week! We haven’t taken a whole week to get away for more years than I can remember. Usually, we’re just gone two or maybe three nights. This was going to be such a treat for us, but … what was I going to do without my sewing machine for a whole week?

Mountain Sewing

I decided I had too many projects to leave them all for a week. There were things I wanted to work on that, with a little planning ahead, I could do while away.

So I packed up my sewing machine in my tote and planned what I would sew.

Here’s my sewing machine, my iron, three cut-out-ahead sewing projects, thread, scissors, and more all packed up and in our mountain getaway.I was so excited to bring my sewing machine with me! I’ve never taken it on a trip before. Probably because, as I said, we usually only get away for a couple of days.

Some dear friends let us have their time share for the whole week! We’re in Banff, Alberta, in the Rocky Mountains.

I’ve claimed half of the table to do my sewing. You can see my computer set up on here. Believe it or not, that table looked a lot worse at the time I wrote this – with all my hubby’s work piled all over it. We got it cleared off enough for me to do some sewing.

Look at my view.Although I do plan to sew and get some work done, I know we’ll also spend some time outdoors.

Matchy-Matchy

One of the sewing projects I planned was to make some panties to go with my new Angie bra. I really like my new Angie and definitely want some panties to match.

Here’s my little set up, and you can see I’ve been sewing. My project is right there on the table with my machine and my computer. It all worked very well.

The first pair of panties I made is my basic pattern. As much as I love lace, I do really like these basic panties. The cotton Lycra is from Black Rabbit Fabrics. Although it’s cream, it matches the ivory duoplex really well. The lace trim is from a favorite vendor of mine on Etsy – Frog Feathers. I love their narrow stretch laces for finishing panties.

The second pair is the same pattern only finished with a lace panel in the front. This very pretty lace is from B,Wear. It’s light beige, but I’ve paired it with ivory a few times and love it. When I was sewing the lace panel onto the front of the panty, I realized I hadn’t brought any elastic for the inside of the waist. On a soft lace like this, it needs some support at the waist. Without elastic, I had to think of an alternative. A strip of cotton Lycra worked just fine. Here they are with my Angie. First, the basic pair with Angie.And here’s the lace panel with Angie. I only took the front photo for these as the sides and back are basically the same.  Yes, that cream is really close to ivory. I’m so happy with both of these sets.

Plans

In order to bring these projects along, and not have to bring everything in my sewing room, I had to preplan my sewing. What I was going to make, and then make sure I had everything I needed.

So I cut everything out, including my lace. I only needed to bring thread, the cut material, pins and scissors. And my sewing machine, of course. It’s worked out wonderfully, and I plan to bring my sewing with me again on future trips.

Smoky Mountains?

We were only in the Rockies for a couple of days before forest fires caused our view to look much more like the Smoky Mountains.

Here’s a view of one of the mountains the first day.I love this. It looks like a painting!

And here’s the view two days later.I was glad I brought an indoor activity when the air quality became so poor.

Happy creating from Banff in the Rocky Mountains!

Angie Again

I finished my first Angie sewn with thread that won’t dissolve when I wash it. I tried it on and didn’t want to take it off! It’s so nice.

Angie

I think this is a really lovely pattern, and makes a very pretty bra. The design is different from almost all the other bras that are available for the home sewing market.The Angie pattern doesn’t have an upper cup like so many bra patterns. In fact, I can’t think of another pattern that doesn’t have an upper cup. There are four pattern pieces to the cups, but none of them are upper or lower. The cup is completely different due to it being all vertical seams.

As I was re-reading this before posting, I did remember another bra that was similar in it had vertical seaming – the Lavender and Lace bra Mrs. Weaver made.  The lines are different though, and that bra was never released as a pattern for sale. These Lavender and Lace bras are lovely, but back to Angie for this post.

I love the shape and design of this bra. In ivory, it reminds me of a sea shell. Delicate and pretty.

Here’s my Angie from the side.I was also happy with the adjustments I made to the cup to make this fit me and make it fit in the frame so neatly. No more puckering on the cups! I’m not going to get tired of that any time soon.

 The best part of this bra is the lift it gives. It really lifts! Okay, the best things are it lifts and it’s also very comfortable.

 Details

I’ve used non-stretch strap tape for the front straps on my Angie. All elastic straps don’t work so well for me. I didn’t have any ribbon on hand to stabilize the front of the strap elastic either, which is another way to give support to strap elastic.

A pretty bow hides all the stitching at the top of the cup where the strap is attached, and the elastics are meeting. If a bra I’ve made has a bow on it, you know I’m happy with it! It’s bow-worthy.

I also used a cute ruffled trim for the upper cup.

Alterations

The alterations I made to this pattern are: I adjusted the cup to be smaller at the wire line, I shortened the bridge and underarm to work with the wire I’m using, and I added a Gothic arch to the front of the band.

The Gothic arch was a last-minute decision. I was pinning on my bottom band elastic and decided I wanted it. So I quickly altered the bottom band to include it. I’m glad I did.

I’m so happy with this bra! And am really looking forward to making my next one already. Boy, another Ruby and Angie in the plans.

I saw a lovely strap alternative for this pattern, so want to try that when I make my next Angie. This photo is from B,Wear’s Instagram.What a lovely addition to the pattern. Yes, I definitely want to try this strap alternative for my next Angie.

Happy creating!

New Orange Lingerie Pattern

Introducing the Lansdowne bra sewing pattern!

The Lansdowne is a cleavage enhancing, plunging underwire bra. The outer cup works like a super power bar, moving the breasts toward the center of the body.

To complete the cleavage enhancing effect, the inner cup is cut straight down from the strap point to the low bridge at the center front.

Available now for A to DD cups in size 30 to 40 bands!

The Poppy Bralette

When I started sewing my own bras, the Pin-up Girls Shelley pattern wasn’t even available yet. So many patterns have been released since then.

There are some new bra and bralette patterns available right now. And I’ve heard there are more patterns coming too. I know of three more soon-to-be-released patterns. What an exciting time to be making our own bras!

The Poppy Bralette was released today. You can find it here.

The Poppy Bralette

  I heard of this new bralette pattern when the designer put out a call for testers, so I offered to test the pattern. Do you see the cup sizes? This pattern isn’t all smaller sizes. This one will actually fit me. The only other bralette pattern I know of that is in my size range is the Pin-up Girls Sweet Sixteen pattern. I was really excited to learn of another designer who’s designed for larger cup sizes.

Here’s the sizing for the Poppy Bralette.

If you need a smaller size, those are coming too. The designer simply decided to test and release the larger sizes first. When the smaller sizes are available, I’ll let you know.

Other than the larger cup sizes, another appealing feature of this pattern is it can be made in cotton Lycra. Ooh! I love cotton Lycra!

Materials

This bralette can be made in CL. It can also be made in Viscose Spandex, Stretch Lace, and Stretch Mesh. It’s fully lined. You can line it with cotton Lycra again, or something with a little more support like power net.

I’m going to use cotton Lycra for my main fabric and line it with power net. Here’s the fabric I’m using:Recognize this? I just used this gorgeous cotton Lycra to make my knotty pants. I think a pretty bralette to match will be very fun.

My Poppy Bralette

    Here’s my Poppy Bralette.I think it’s adorable! However, it’s a smidge small in the cups.

After talking with the designer, we both thought it might have been the power net lining. Power mesh might have been a better idea, or simply cotton Lycra.

I did sew this together with wash-away thread, so I’m going to soak it and then try  those changes.

Impressions

  Making this bralette with power net as the lining makes it very supportive. It’s definitely not flimsy!

I like the shape of this bralette too. The cup shape is flattering, the wide back and sides are very comfortable and supportive.

Here’s the side:  I need to gather the elastic under the arm more. I’m very shallow there, and have to make that adjustment on almost every bra I sew.

Here’s the back view:Look at this nice deep back.

One of the things that impressed me the most with this pattern is almost all the seams are enclosed. Talk about comfortable! Just look here at the side seam.This photo shows the side seam and the under-bust seam. Both are enclosed. It’s a very nice feature. The only seam not enclosed is the center front.

Here’s the center cup seam, which is enclosed too and you can see the center front. It’s not enclosed, but it’s sewn down flat.     Do you see that nice wide elastic at the bottom edge? That’s 3/4″/19 mm elastic. Another supportive feature of this bralette.

My Second Poppy

Seeing as I used power net on my first Poppy, I decided to use all cotton Lycra for the second one.This looks the same on the outside, but the inside is lovely soft cotton Lycra.  Soft, comfortable, and those lovely enclosed seams. It’s really nice.

On this above photo you can see the internal sling I added this time. I wasn’t sure cotton Lycra alone would be as supportive.

Although this is still a touch small in the cups, I’ve still worn this all day and it’s wonderful.

Here is my Poppy with my knotty pants.What a cute set!

I do have a third Poppy in the works, but that will be another post.

Happy creating!