A Few Leftovers

I still have a few projects left over from 2018 I want to get done. I decided these would be the first sewing projects I finished in 2019. As well, I have a free House Morrighan pattern hack for you this week. See the bottom of this post.

Clover Briefs

There was a pair of House Morrighan Clover Briefs that were mostly sewn sitting on my cutting table. They were waiting for the bands to be put on the legs. That was it. But Christmas came, and visiting, and New Year’s, and we went to the mountains. There were a lot of reasons I wasn’t sewing. Those Clover Briefs waited for me though.These are adorable too. I made them in the reverse of the color block I made my first ones.Although the bands for the waist and legs are easy, and do look nice, I still  prefer lace trim for finishing my panties.

Here they are from the side. And from the back. Well, I can say, I definitely don’t like how the bands are flipping up in the photos. Good thing they don’t do that when they’re on me. I’ve got more to fill them out than my display.

Another Clover Boybrief for Em

   Em loved this pattern too. So much so, she requested another pair. Instead of the Clover briefs, which I prefer, she asked for the boy-leg opening.

She also requested a color combo, and for them to be finished with bands. Em prefers bands to lace trim.

Here are Em’s Clovers in pink and ivory.

Oh, these are darling! When I was sewing them together, I wasn’t sure how I felt about the two colors, but seeing them on the display, they look great!

Here’s the side view.  And the back view.  Oh, they are sweet. And it’s nice to see panties that fit my display perfectly.

Just so you can see all the ways I’ve made the Clover boy briefs, here’s a collage of what I’ve done with the pattern.

Happy creating!

Plans for a New Year

Happy New Year!

I know. I’m a few days late to use that greeting, but this is my first blog post of 2019. I thought I’d share with you some of my plans for this new year. It’s always fun for me to look back and see just how many of my plans I carry out.

BMS Challenge

One of the things I enjoyed this past year was participating in the Bra-Makers Challenge. I didn’t manage to participate each month, but when I did, it was fun. I enjoyed trying new fabrics, and learning a few new things.

Here’s a collage of my Challenge makes from 2018:

Nine out of twelve isn’t bad. Maybe I’ll do better in 2019. My highlight had to be my red satin bra and panty set from February.Yes. This was my favorite Challenge make.

So, I’m thinking of doing the Challenge again in 2019.

Drafting and More

Some of my plans for 2019 are a result of my taking the Drafting course. That was something I’ve wanted to take for at least three years now. And it was as wonderful as I thought. I’m so glad I took the course.

The next course has been scheduled too – Bra Fitting 101. It’s another week-long course, and I’m sure it will be as great as the Drafting course was.

That course is in the Spring, so to keep busy between now and then, I’ll be making some Fitting Bras. I’ll be making 22 Fitting Bras to cover the most used sizes. So, my posts might be a bit monochromatic while I’m sewing them all up. Or I may not post weekly. I’ll have to see how things are working themselves out.

You might wonder why I need to make fitting bras. Well, I’m going to continue taking these professional courses and hopefully begin a new bra-making adventure using the skills I’m learning.

House Morrighan

I’ve also had a great time in 2018 being a tester for House Morrighan. The patterns are lovely. It’s great to have a bralette pattern, or chemise pattern that’s been designed with curves in mind.

One mis-perception is the patterns are only plus sized. They’re not. House Morrighan covers smaller sizes too. I’ve been making either a 6 or 8 for Em, and a 12 for me. That’s definitely not only plus sized.

 In 2019 I plan to continue testing HM patterns. The next release will be a free nursing adaptation for the Poppy, Dahlia, and Abbie. I’ve had a sneak peek at a couple more patterns that are coming too. They’re lovely! Stay tuned.

Libelle Sewing

As if all that wasn’t enough to keep me busy for the year. I’m also going to be sewing some samples for Libelle Sewing.

Look at these samples, and my pup.How could I not want to sew something with a little silver and tan pup like mine? There are so many panels coming, but not until Spring. We all will have to wait for a little bit for this adorableness.

It’s looking like a busy but fun year ahead!

Happy creating!

Miss Maggie for Em

I wanted to make a handbag for Em. It was one of her Christmas gifts.

I have many handbag patterns, but have only made three so far: Chris W’s Serendipity Hip, Emmaline Bags’ Craftsy Clutch Bag and Miss Maggie’s Handbag.I keep going back to the Miss Maggie’s because I really love the shape of the pattern. If you haven’t tried it, it’s a free pattern.So, it was a Miss Maggie’s again.

Even before I picked a pattern, I found this gorgeous material. I’m not even sure where I saw the material, but as soon as I saw it, I knew it was perfect. Em loves cats, and bright colors. Well, this is perfect for her

Em’s Miss Maggie’s

Here’s Em’s Miss Maggie’s:Oh, I’m loving this too.

I used iridescent hardware for this bag. I thought the shimmer of purple would go beautifully with the bright colors.

Here’s the side view:You can still see some kitties, but you can also see the black and grey material without the cats that I used for the back. It still gives some visual interest, but doesn’t take away from the front of the bag at all.

Here’s the back with the straps hanging down.I really like the back of the bag too.

I make my straps longer than the Miss Maggie’s pattern suggests. I make them long enough to make this a shoulder bag.

I also change the straps just a bit more by making them Jazzy. I read a post on Chris W.’s blog about Jazzy straps and have done this a few times now with my straps.

One thing I learned about making Jazzy straps is to use the darker color for the part that will get the most use. I found on my Canada Miss Maggie’s that the straps were showing the most wear at the top where I’d hold them, or where I’d pick up the bag. Using a lighter color there wasn’t the best idea. It might add more pop at the top, but it also shows the most wear there too.

 Dressing Up Miss Maggie’s

 Miss Maggie’s Handbag doesn’t need a lot of dressing up, but she did get a couple of fun features in the hardware I used.

The first choice I made for Em’s handbag after picking out the fabric was to get the iridescent Long John strap anchors. I love these anchors and have used them most of the time I’ve made this pattern. This was the first time I used the iridescent. They add a lot of bling.Don’t they look great? I’ve also used iridescent rivets.

I bought some metallic purple faux leather from Emmaline Bags to make a tassel.That adds just a little more bling to the handbag. And this faux leather is lovely to cut. It’s very soft.

The tassel above is gold because the iridescent ones were out of stock at the time. I have since received the second iridescent tassel, and will give her both… as soon as I make that second one.

The last bit of bling had to be positioned just so.The Handmade tag had to be positioned just so one of the kitties was looking at it.

Here’s the inside of the handbag. A lot more bright colors. All the fabrics I used to make Em’s Miss Maggie’s came from the Cat-i-tude line of fabric.

I hope Em loves her gift as much as I loved making it.

Happy New Year & happy creating!

House Morrighan Clover Boybrief

There was one more House Morrighan pattern being tested before the  holiday season began: The Clover Boybrief pattern. This pattern has some similar features to the Ivy Brief (also by House Morrighan). It includes patterns pieces for the bands for both the waist and the legs. I love that. For some, it’s a very little thing but I like that the bands are included.

The pattern also offers a few different ways of making the briefs. You can use bands to finish the legs and waist or you can use elastic to finish them. You can make a boyshort style, or a brief style. And you can have a contoured waist. I’m interested in that contoured waist. Don’t you love all these options? I do. Also, I really like the shape of these. For boyshorts, these actually work for me. There is some curve built in.

Clover Boybrief

 Here is my first test of the Clover Boybrief. This is the high brief with boy legs. This one was to check the sizing. And the sizing was spot on. I made these up from some cotton Lycra I had in my stash. I also tested the pattern for Em in CL.

Em’s Clovers

  Here are the Clover Boybriefs I tested for Em. These are also in a cotton Lycra, but instead of matching bands, I used a contrasting color.I really liked this pattern and knew I’d want to make more for myself. Em also requested more. So this style is a hit with both of us. It was time to have some fun with the pattern.

Matching Set

I hadn’t made any panties to match my new Ruby bra, so decided I liked the Clover Boybriefs so much that I’d use the pattern to make my matching set.Here’s my Ruby bra. The same lace I used for this bra, and a previous Angie bra, was now being used to make the Clover Boybriefs.

I cut out two pair of panties, both with color-blocking, but I was only able to finish one pair. Gift sewing took over all other sewing.

Here are my new Clovers Boybriefs, with contour band and brief legs:I’ve used black and black cherry cotton Lycra for these, and rather than bands or elastic as the pattern calls for, I’m using black lace trim. I’m loving these panties!

Here’s my new Clover & Ruby set:Here they are from the back. Oh, this is a lovely set. I need to hurry up and get all my gifts sewn up so I can finish a second pair for me, and for Em.

The Clover pattern is on sale today for 20% off! You can find it here.

Happy creating & Merry Christmas!

Design and Draft Course

This past week I took the Bra Design & Draft course at Central Sewing Machines. I’ve wanted to take a bra drafting course for a few years now. With the course finally coming closer to home, I could do it.It was a pleasant surprise to find I knew the other students. We’d all taken either the Beginner Bra-making class or Shelley class at Central last year. And of course, we’d all taken those classes with Jeanette of Sew Uplifting Bras too. It was like a class reunion.

The first day was very exciting. We were all presented with a bag full of goodies. Now, others may not have been so thrilled with the goodies, but for a bunch of bra-makers, it was a thrill! Just take a look.This is the manual we were given. It has the complete Drafting course in it, as well as a bunch of other great resources.
We also got a full set of Long wires, and a complete set of Classic patterns (all the sizes). There were sample packs of duoplex and power net, a notebook, a binder (shown above), a set of curves, and a bra kit with findings. All in a great bag. I’m pretty sure that was the best swag bag ever.

Fabrics

The first day we learned about all different fabrics that can be used in bra-making or lingerie. Some of them were familiar to me, some were new. We were given samples too, with instructions on how they were best used, and not to be used. It’s all neatly contained in our new binder. One of the students is in a Fashion & Design course, and she said she’d learned more that day than she had in her Textiles class. It really was very useful. By the end of the first day, we’d all been measured and learned how to measure someone else by measuring one another – all under Jeanette’s instruction. We were almost ready for Day Two, but before that, we had homework to do.

Drafting

Day Two was the beginning of a lot of paper and pencil work. We were guided in the art of drafting. We started with our frames. I did something wrong. Jeanette told me what I did wrong, but I was tired and didn’t correct it right away. Let me tell you, all it takes is one little mistake to throw everything off. By the end of the day, we were sent home with homework again. This time we were to practice our drafting. We drafted frames for everyone in the class. Day Three built upon Day Two. We were starting our lower cup draft. Well, we needed our frame to be done correctly at this point, and the one I had with me in the class still wasn’t corrected. Things weren’t fitting together. Again, Jeanette pointed out what I’d done wrong on my frame. I was back to the drawing board. Literally. I’d had a little more practice drawing frames by Day Three after Day Two’s homework, so it went much more quickly. I was on track in no time. We finished the day with a draft of our lower cup, our upper cup, and lots of information on how to do adjustments if needed.

Day Four was similar to Day Three – still more paper, pencils, drafting, and information. Some of us even cut out our newly drafted patterns, and got in some sewing before the end of the day. One woman was almost finished her drafted bra on Day Four. I had my cups finished. I brought them home and put them in my fitting bra frame. I was thinking this would save me the time of completing the whole bra to see how close I was. There was one small little change I needed to make to my draft. That was incredibly encouraging.Something I’ve heard and read repeatedly is: To get accurate measurements you have to start with a well-fitting bra. It’s so true. Jeanette brought fitting bras with her, so we all started with a well-fitting bra to get our measurements. And it works!

Day Five was mostly a sewing day for me. But before I could sew, I had to re-draft my upper and lower cups with that one little change. I worked as quickly as I could so I could get to the sewing. I really wanted to be done by the end of the day. Thinking back, I could have just changed my pattern, but it was a drafting class, and I was getting a LOT of experience with drafting.

The great news is I did it. I finished the Bra Design & Draft course and came away with a perfectly fitting pattern and bra – that I drafted from measurements.On my drafted bra here, I added a couple of features just because I could. I gave this bra a Gothic arch, and a thinned band under the cups. This draft is for a Horizontal seam. This seaming is the basis for the ‘Heather’ bra. The Heather bra is actually a Wacoal bra. It’s the Retro Chic Full Figure Underwire Bra.

You can see this has a horizontal seam going across the cup. It’s so pretty. I’m already planning another ‘Heather’ using my new pattern. If you have the Craftsy Class Sewing Bras Foam, Lace & Beyond, Beverly shares how to make the Heather bra.

It was a great week. I can’t wait for the next course!

Happy creating!

A New Ruby

I wanted to make another Ruby. I am really loving the new patterns that are available. I’m thinking after this, another Angie, or maybe I’ll try the Jessica, and then the Amethyst pattern. Well, maybe I’ll do some of these fun new patterns in-between Christmas gift sewing and the Bra Drafting course I’m taking. I’ll share more on that next week.

Lace

 I did have a Ruby all cut out, so was working on that first. For my lace, I’m using some from Kantje Boord again. In fact, I’m using the same lace I used on my last Angie. The first photo below shows the lace on black Lycra (from the Kantjeboord website). The second photo is my black cherry bra with the lace flowers cut out and appliqued. I thought it would be fun to see how the same lace can look very different used in different ways. I’ll be using black duoplex and power net for my newest bra.

Ruby

For this Ruby, I did make one small alteration to the pattern. The straps felt a little too widely set for me, so I’m moving them in just a bit. I’m using my TNT cradle for this Ruby too. Other than that, the only alterations I made were for my Omega shape.

Here’s my Ruby:I am loving this! I love the colors. I love the shape and fit. Oh, these new patterns are so nice.

When making this Ruby, I did make another change – this time to the style of this Ruby. I decided in order to show the lace off as much as I wanted, I wouldn’t use fold-over elastic along the neckline edge. I changed the neckline to allow the lace scallops to show, and did what I usually do to stabilize a lace upper cup – sheer cup lining and some of that wonderful upper cup elastic from Kantje Boord.

Here’s my Ruby from the side:

And my Ruby from the back:I really do love this bra. It’s kind of funny, but my hubby is taking all the credit for this bra because he brought the lace back from Amsterdam. We all know there’s a little more to the bra than just lace. But he’s having fun taking credit.

To add a pop of color, I used a black cherry bow and added a black crystal to the bow’s center.It’s a very pretty pop of color.

Lastly, here are the two bras together:Even though I used the same lace on both of these bras, they definitely look different. Do you have a preference? Let me know which one you like best.

Happy creating!

BMS Challenge – November

I originally wasn’t going to make the November BMS Challenge – Support Your Man. Men need support too. Show them some love this November by making men’s underwear and see how creative you can get.My son loves his SAXX, and said he preferred them over the Michael Men’s Underwear pattern. He said he did wear the ones I gave him, but would prefer I bought him the real ones.

So. I wasn’t planning on sewing him any briefs this year. However, I read a comment (somewhere I can’t find now) regarding the Men’s underwear pattern. It was saying you could either do the front opening on the underwear OR the sling, but not both.

Right away I was thinking, ‘That’s not right.” I knew you could do both because my son has a pair that has both the front opening and the sling! I had him send me a picture of the front and inside. Let me just say, I’m a brave woman. That pair of SAXX is over four-years-old! He sent the pictures, and that underwear looked like it was over four-years-old.

However, it helped me see what I wanted to see.

Michael Underwear

Here are the Michael Men’s Underwear with a sling and front opening. I’ve lightened this photo to show the detail a little better.These are a basic black cotton Lycra. And you can see the front opening.

Here they are from the inside.The sling is a light blue. I chose that so it would show up better in these photos, and so it wouldn’t be a headache to sew black on black, on black, with black thread.

The key to making these underwear with a sling and front opening is that front piece. The pattern says to cut one. However, as you can see below, I’m not using just one piece – I’m using two pieces.I altered the front pattern to be a front-opening panel. And I cut two front panels.  Then one piece is flipped so it becomes a mirror of the other. The two pieces are basted together, making sure there’s an opening on each side, and on opposite sides. Then they can be used as one piece. After basting them, I add the sling just as I would normally add it according to the pattern.

Here are my son’s Michael’s from the side.And here they are from the back. (Again, lightened. The seams just wouldn’t show otherwise.) My son also let me know when I made him his last pair of Michael’s that he didn’t like the band. He found the elastic too firm for his liking. Now to be fair, he’s a personal fitness trainer, so probably doing a little more movement while wearing his. So this time instead of elastic, I simply made a band out of the same cotton Lycra.I’m sure he’ll find this more comfortable.

One last image.   Here are the Michael underwear showing the front and mirrored inside front openings both opened showing the blue sling behind them.

I hope my son likes these ones better than the last ones I made him.

Happy creating!

House Morrighan Viola French Knickers

I tested the most recent pattern by House Morrighan – the Viola French Knickers.

These are a really quick sew, and they are darling on. They’re designed for stretch knits, so it was cotton Lycra for me.

The first thing I did before making these was to plan what I wanted to have them match. Well, I wanted them to match my Poppy, and Dahlia, and Abbie. Hmm. That didn’t get me very far, so I just decided to make a pair in some cotton Lycra I had in my stash – just to see how they were going to fit before I started planning matching sets.

Here’s my first test of the Viola French Knickers. They are darling! I didn’t finish the hem on these, as these were only to see how the sizing would be. They fit perfectly.

Here’s the side view:You can see, these are a cheeky little panty.

And the back view:You might be wondering, ‘What is going on with that waistband?’ Well, tired sewing was happening. Somehow I didn’t realize the whole time I was attaching the waistband that it was inside out, so the raw edges are outside rather than inside. I started to rip it all out, but then decided these were only to see how things fit, and they fit just fine. They can even be worn this way. I have tops I’ve bought that have edges that look like this.

Now I know they fit perfectly, it’s time to make another pair – this time to match something I’ve made already. But what will it be? Poppy? Dahlia? Abbie? It was hard to decide.

Violas to Match

 Abbie won out because I really love the Abbie chemise. Here are my Viola French Knickers in cotton Lycra, with matching CL band.If these look a tad shorter than the pair above, it’s because these have been hemmed.

Oh, they are darling. Some of the testers used elastic at the waist, which is another option. I also saw lace trim to finish the hem. They were all lovely.

Here they are from the side: And when they’re hemmed, they’re just a bit cheekier from the back.They are really darling. They might not be my everyday panty, but I’ve heard from a few testers say they love them under trousers. Whether these become an everyday panty or not, they will be a wonderful addition to any lingerie drawer.

Violas for Em

I was asked to test this pattern in a smaller size too, so I made a pair for Em. I still have some fabric left over from Em’s Abbie too, so she’s getting some Violas to match her Abbie as well.

These knickers are adorable in all sizes.Oh these are sweet.And that cheeky back view:Happy creating!

A Black Cherry Angie

I really love the shape and lift some of these new patterns give, like the Angie, Ruby, Jessica, and the new Amethyst.This is the new Amethyst pattern.

These patterns are all lovely additions to our bra-sewing pattern collections. I  had planned to make another Angie and Ruby as I know they both fit wonderfully. I also want to try the new Jessica and Amethyst patterns too. All the while, I’ve been testing patterns for House Morrighan. I am having such a fun time!

On top of all these great patterns to be excited about, there were the lovely new kits my husband brought home from Amsterdam. I had to break into a kit, and see what I could  make with one.

Angie

   Angie was the first bra I wanted to make again. Here’s my latest Angie. This is with black cherry duoplex, and some of the lovely lace from Kantjeboord.I thought of a few ways to use lace on the Angie. I’ve seen people use it laid horizontally across the lower part of the cups. I’ve seen people use lace on every other cup piece, and on every cup piece. None of those were what I wanted to do for this one. I didn’t think any of those options would showcase this lace the way I wanted. So I decided to cut out the floral part of the lace, and applique it onto the cups. A little Misty Fuse to hold things in place, a small zigzag, and they look lovely.

Here’s a close up of the cup.Yes, this lace goes beautifully with the black cherry duoplex. I really like this! You can also see I’ve added a strap tab to this Angie. I like the strap tab addition and will likely continue to use one.

My inspiration for this came from wanting to use this lace, use this pattern, and my desire to make this more supportive by using duoplex. In the back of my mind, I remembered a blog post from The Lingerie Addict showing the most beautiful Japanese bras. Here’s one from the internet:This is not my bra, and not my photo. It is beautiful though, and shows you can use lace in different ways than just on the upper cup. If you want to see the most stunning lingerie, go look at the post I linked above. The bras are amazing.

With that memory in the back of my mind, I thought I can do applique on my bra as well. I think mine is lovely too.

Here’s the bra from the side:    You can see here, although the front is black cherry, I’ve used black for the back band and all the elastics.

And the back of the bra: The band has a downward hike to it.

I love how this came together.

As much fun as I’m having sewing bras and lingerie right now, I have to get busy sewing Christmas gifts. I won’t be showing any of those until after Christmas though.

Happy creating!

A Navy Floral Watson

This was just a short little post, so I added another short post to the bottom of it. So today is a two-for-one post.

Em really loves her Watson bras. So much so, her sister had to see what all the fuss was about. After trying on Em’s, she wanted one too.I’ve made all of Em’s Watsons from bits of this and that I have left over from other projects. Em’s sister decided to pay for materials though. This Watson is the most put-together Watson I’ve made yet – even though the other ones I made were very pretty.

I sent her to look at Libelle, because they have what I’d need for a Watson bra at a great price. They have mesh, and lace, and elastics. And they’re all the size needed for a Watson.

She picked this lace: (Link is in the photo.) It’s a lovely stretch navy lace. I ordered some of this lovely lace for me too.

Em’s Sister’s Watson

   Most of the Watson’s I’ve made, I’ve fused a stable interfacing to the front cradle, but for this one I’ve used sheer cup lining behind it. (The lining was from my stash.) I love how it looks. You can hardly see any difference between the front cradle and the cups.

Here’s the side view:  The back band is a dark navy Lycra. It has a lot of stretch, similar to power mesh, which is what I’d used for Em’s Watsons.

And the back:  I’m really happy with how this turned out. And I hear Em’s sister is happy too.

My second post is my make for the Bra-Makers October Challenge.

“October – Your Breast’s Friend! October is Breast Cancer month and we challenge you to make a mastectomy bra and/or a prosthesis for someone you care about.”

Bra-Makers Supply also has a few related blog posts: DIY Breast Form, Foam Cup Pockets, and  Russian Doll Bra Cups.

For the challenge I made a couple of breast forms.

Here are the forms I made:They’re made from cotton Lycra, and have bean-bag-fill (tiny plastic beads) in them. They weigh just less than 1/2 pound each. They’re also very similar to some store-bought ones a family member uses.

These are very easy to make. They’re light-weight, and I hope work well.

Happy creating!