Fitting Bra One Done

Things aren’t completely settled after my FIL’s unexpected move last month. There is still a lot to be sorted out. But getting him settled, and the apartment cleaned out were the most important parts. The rest can be done when we have some time, and my hubby and I are doing bits here and there.

In spite of having all those things to sort out, I found some time to sew my first Fitting bra. When I was thinking about sewing 22 bras, I decided I’d start with the larger sizes first. I haven’t had a lot of opportunity to sew those smaller sizes, and thought they’d be a little more fun to sew. Those cute little bras will be my reward after sewing all the rest of the bras.

First Fitting Bra

Here’s my first bra. I chose to do them in ivory.   This is a 48 H Pin-up Girls Classic bra.

I can tell you, it was awfully hard to write the size on it. After taking care to sew it all so nicely, then to mark it up. Oh my! But the reality is I’m going to need to be able to see the size easily, so needed to mark it. It was hard though.

I’m sure after sewing and marking 21 more bras, it’ll be old hand to me.

Here’s the back of the bra. There were a couple of things I didn’t do while sewing this bra. I didn’t do any top-stitching. However, I did do some reinforcing stitching like at the strap and where the band attaches. It’s a little hard to see but there’s the seam and then that seam is reinforced with another seam. Those aren’t decorative stitches. Those are to strengthen the straps, and band.

Something else I didn’t do on this bra is finish the channeling at either the front, or the side. I wanted to keep the channeling open in case I need to use a different wire size than what is  normally used. Trust me, I know very well that a different wire size can be needed. So, I decided it will be better to not finish the channeling on these fitting bras.

Fitting Bra Two

Fitting Bra Two looks just like Fitting Bra One, doesn’t it? This is size 46 H. I’ve yet to mark it up, but I’ve decided to include a few other pertinent bits of information while writing on my bras. I’m also writing the wire size and the Bottom Cup Depth.I have a few other sewing projects waiting for me, but they’ll have to fit in and around these Fitting Bras. My goal is to get as many done in February as I can. Let’s see just how many I can do.

Happy creating!

We Got Your Back – BMS January Challenge 2019

The January Challenge for Bra-Makers Supply is We Got Your Back. The idea is to ‘make creative, unusual, or off-the-wall crazy backs for your bras, swimsuits, corsets or underwear. Yes, this month we are looking at bra backs and how to make them pretty and even more supportive than they usually are.’

Thinking about this challenge, I knew just what I wanted to do. A while back I received an email from Booby Traps about Bare Bax, a company that specialized in interchangeable bra backs. Not only that, but bra backs that are meant to be seen. I loved this idea!

Dual Reasoning

As well as participating in the challenge, I had another reason for wanting to make a bra with a fancy back – a gorgeous sweater my hubby gave me. Isn’t that a great back right there? I was thinking of wearing a camisole under this, but a bra with a fancy back might be more fun. A pop of color, that doesn’t look like a bra back might be just what I’d like behind this sweater.

My Challenges

The one challenge about my Challenge entry is I need my band to provide the support for my bra. So, rather than just use lace for a pretty back, I’m thinking lace backed with power net. The lace will still be all that’s seen though.

Another challenge I’m facing is I can’t get hooks & eyes in the same color I’m using for my bra. I’m making a lavender bra, but the 5 x 3 hooks and eyes don’t come in that color. Even hook and eye tape doesn’t come in lavender. I’m going to have to dye my hooks and eyes – a first for me. So, since I’m jumping into dyeing, I’m going to dye some elastics while I’m at it.

Dyeing

 My adventure into dyeing went pretty well. I had everything set out, including the bit of power net I wanted to match. Honestly, those findings weren’t in the dye two minutes before I looked at the hooks and eyes and thought, ‘They need to come out. Now.’

I turned around to grab my spatula handle, and they were already darker than I wanted!I realized just how quickly these findings will take color. However, the BMS Challenge for January was coming close to an end, so I decided these will do nicely.

I found dyeing very interesting. Look at the one ring and how it took color differently. One is noticeably darker than the others, but they were all in for the same amount of time.This has me thinking, I might want to do some timed tests with bits of elastic and such and record the results after say 1 minute, 2 minutes, 3 minutes…

Back to the Challenge.

My Fancy Back

  Here’s my lovely lavender bra, with a removable lace back.I’ve used 5 x 3 hook and eyes on each side of the bra to attach this back. I can take this off and use another back in the future (When I get another back made.)

As well, I’ve adjusted the height of my lace for my back. You can see how much I shortened the height of my lace by cutting and matching the pattern on it.

Here are the hooks and eyes that connect the back to the bra. And if you look closely, you can just barely see the seam in the middle of the lace. Below is my bra from the front. It doesn’t look any different from a normal bra.Lastly, here’s my bra under the sweater on my display.What a subtle but lovely little pop of color peeking out!

Happy creating!

When Repairs Don’t Go So Well

There was no post last week because I was busy moving my FIL. There’s no time to sew when you’re packing up someone’s house. It’s been so busy, it’s taken me two weeks to finish this one bra.

A Bra Lament

One issue I’ve had fairly consistently with ready-to-wear bras is the wire on the left likes to break out of the channeling. I’m not sure why it’s only the left side, but it’s been consistent.

I haven’t had this problem with my me-made bras though. At least not until my most recent Ruby, that is. And I like this Ruby SO much. I was wearing it while out one day and the wire poked through the top of the channeling – on the left side. I spent the day trying to pushing it back in without drawing attention to myself and my bra woes.

Once back at home, I attempted a repair. Black thread on black channeling on black duoplex won. I made a hole in my very pretty new Ruby bra while trying to repair it.

I still have some of this gorgeous lace. So, I decided to make the bra again.Oh, I do like this lace. I’ve made an Angie, a Ruby and two pair of panties with this. And after cutting out a second Ruby, there is still more lace left over.

 My New-Same-as-the-Last Ruby

I’ve measured and re-measured to make sure everything about this new Ruby will be perfect. One of the things I’m still really delighting in is how my cups are fitting into the cradle now – without wrinkles. I just love how it looks now.

Here, see what I mean?There are no wrinkles, no puckers, no gathering. It looks clean and professional. Just the way I want my bras to look. I sent off a message to Jeanette telling her (again) how thankful I am for her class and all her little tips.

I jumped right in there and showed you the side of my new Ruby, so let me show you the front now. It’s almost exactly the same as my previous Ruby.   It doesn’t have its bow yet, but that’s still coming. I wanted to get my post out while it’s still today.

Here’s the back.I hope I can find a little more time to sew this week. My FIL is almost all moved into his new home, so a little bit more decorating, and I should be able to find time again.

Happy creating!

A Few Leftovers

I still have a few projects left over from 2018 I want to get done. I decided these would be the first sewing projects I finished in 2019. As well, I have a free House Morrighan pattern hack for you this week. See the bottom of this post.

Clover Briefs

There was a pair of House Morrighan Clover Briefs that were mostly sewn sitting on my cutting table. They were waiting for the bands to be put on the legs. That was it. But Christmas came, and visiting, and New Year’s, and we went to the mountains. There were a lot of reasons I wasn’t sewing. Those Clover Briefs waited for me though.These are adorable too. I made them in the reverse of the color block I made my first ones.Although the bands for the waist and legs are easy, and do look nice, I still  prefer lace trim for finishing my panties.

Here they are from the side. And from the back. Well, I can say, I definitely don’t like how the bands are flipping up in the photos. Good thing they don’t do that when they’re on me. I’ve got more to fill them out than my display.

Another Clover Boybrief for Em

   Em loved this pattern too. So much so, she requested another pair. Instead of the Clover briefs, which I prefer, she asked for the boy-leg opening.

She also requested a color combo, and for them to be finished with bands. Em prefers bands to lace trim.

Here are Em’s Clovers in pink and ivory.

Oh, these are darling! When I was sewing them together, I wasn’t sure how I felt about the two colors, but seeing them on the display, they look great!

Here’s the side view.  And the back view.  Oh, they are sweet. And it’s nice to see panties that fit my display perfectly.

Just so you can see all the ways I’ve made the Clover boy briefs, here’s a collage of what I’ve done with the pattern.

Happy creating!

Plans for a New Year

Happy New Year!

I know. I’m a few days late to use that greeting, but this is my first blog post of 2019. I thought I’d share with you some of my plans for this new year. It’s always fun for me to look back and see just how many of my plans I carry out.

BMS Challenge

One of the things I enjoyed this past year was participating in the Bra-Makers Challenge. I didn’t manage to participate each month, but when I did, it was fun. I enjoyed trying new fabrics, and learning a few new things.

Here’s a collage of my Challenge makes from 2018:

Nine out of twelve isn’t bad. Maybe I’ll do better in 2019. My highlight had to be my red satin bra and panty set from February.Yes. This was my favorite Challenge make.

So, I’m thinking of doing the Challenge again in 2019.

Drafting and More

Some of my plans for 2019 are a result of my taking the Drafting course. That was something I’ve wanted to take for at least three years now. And it was as wonderful as I thought. I’m so glad I took the course.

The next course has been scheduled too – Bra Fitting 101. It’s another week-long course, and I’m sure it will be as great as the Drafting course was.

That course is in the Spring, so to keep busy between now and then, I’ll be making some Fitting Bras. I’ll be making 22 Fitting Bras to cover the most used sizes. So, my posts might be a bit monochromatic while I’m sewing them all up. Or I may not post weekly. I’ll have to see how things are working themselves out.

You might wonder why I need to make fitting bras. Well, I’m going to continue taking these professional courses and hopefully begin a new bra-making adventure using the skills I’m learning.

House Morrighan

I’ve also had a great time in 2018 being a tester for House Morrighan. The patterns are lovely. It’s great to have a bralette pattern, or chemise pattern that’s been designed with curves in mind.

One mis-perception is the patterns are only plus sized. They’re not. House Morrighan covers smaller sizes too. I’ve been making either a 6 or 8 for Em, and a 12 for me. That’s definitely not only plus sized.

 In 2019 I plan to continue testing HM patterns. The next release will be a free nursing adaptation for the Poppy, Dahlia, and Abbie. I’ve had a sneak peek at a couple more patterns that are coming too. They’re lovely! Stay tuned.

Libelle Sewing

As if all that wasn’t enough to keep me busy for the year. I’m also going to be sewing some samples for Libelle Sewing.

Look at these samples, and my pup.How could I not want to sew something with a little silver and tan pup like mine? There are so many panels coming, but not until Spring. We all will have to wait for a little bit for this adorableness.

It’s looking like a busy but fun year ahead!

Happy creating!

Miss Maggie for Em

I wanted to make a handbag for Em. It was one of her Christmas gifts.

I have many handbag patterns, but have only made three so far: Chris W’s Serendipity Hip, Emmaline Bags’ Craftsy Clutch Bag and Miss Maggie’s Handbag.I keep going back to the Miss Maggie’s because I really love the shape of the pattern. If you haven’t tried it, it’s a free pattern.So, it was a Miss Maggie’s again.

Even before I picked a pattern, I found this gorgeous material. I’m not even sure where I saw the material, but as soon as I saw it, I knew it was perfect. Em loves cats, and bright colors. Well, this is perfect for her

Em’s Miss Maggie’s

Here’s Em’s Miss Maggie’s:Oh, I’m loving this too.

I used iridescent hardware for this bag. I thought the shimmer of purple would go beautifully with the bright colors.

Here’s the side view:You can still see some kitties, but you can also see the black and grey material without the cats that I used for the back. It still gives some visual interest, but doesn’t take away from the front of the bag at all.

Here’s the back with the straps hanging down.I really like the back of the bag too.

I make my straps longer than the Miss Maggie’s pattern suggests. I make them long enough to make this a shoulder bag.

I also change the straps just a bit more by making them Jazzy. I read a post on Chris W.’s blog about Jazzy straps and have done this a few times now with my straps.

One thing I learned about making Jazzy straps is to use the darker color for the part that will get the most use. I found on my Canada Miss Maggie’s that the straps were showing the most wear at the top where I’d hold them, or where I’d pick up the bag. Using a lighter color there wasn’t the best idea. It might add more pop at the top, but it also shows the most wear there too.

 Dressing Up Miss Maggie’s

 Miss Maggie’s Handbag doesn’t need a lot of dressing up, but she did get a couple of fun features in the hardware I used.

The first choice I made for Em’s handbag after picking out the fabric was to get the iridescent Long John strap anchors. I love these anchors and have used them most of the time I’ve made this pattern. This was the first time I used the iridescent. They add a lot of bling.Don’t they look great? I’ve also used iridescent rivets.

I bought some metallic purple faux leather from Emmaline Bags to make a tassel.That adds just a little more bling to the handbag. And this faux leather is lovely to cut. It’s very soft.

The tassel above is gold because the iridescent ones were out of stock at the time. I have since received the second iridescent tassel, and will give her both… as soon as I make that second one.

The last bit of bling had to be positioned just so.The Handmade tag had to be positioned just so one of the kitties was looking at it.

Here’s the inside of the handbag. A lot more bright colors. All the fabrics I used to make Em’s Miss Maggie’s came from the Cat-i-tude line of fabric.

I hope Em loves her gift as much as I loved making it.

Happy New Year & happy creating!

House Morrighan Clover Boybrief

There was one more House Morrighan pattern being tested before the  holiday season began: The Clover Boybrief pattern. This pattern has some similar features to the Ivy Brief (also by House Morrighan). It includes patterns pieces for the bands for both the waist and the legs. I love that. For some, it’s a very little thing but I like that the bands are included.

The pattern also offers a few different ways of making the briefs. You can use bands to finish the legs and waist or you can use elastic to finish them. You can make a boyshort style, or a brief style. And you can have a contoured waist. I’m interested in that contoured waist. Don’t you love all these options? I do. Also, I really like the shape of these. For boyshorts, these actually work for me. There is some curve built in.

Clover Boybrief

 Here is my first test of the Clover Boybrief. This is the high brief with boy legs. This one was to check the sizing. And the sizing was spot on. I made these up from some cotton Lycra I had in my stash. I also tested the pattern for Em in CL.

Em’s Clovers

  Here are the Clover Boybriefs I tested for Em. These are also in a cotton Lycra, but instead of matching bands, I used a contrasting color.I really liked this pattern and knew I’d want to make more for myself. Em also requested more. So this style is a hit with both of us. It was time to have some fun with the pattern.

Matching Set

I hadn’t made any panties to match my new Ruby bra, so decided I liked the Clover Boybriefs so much that I’d use the pattern to make my matching set.Here’s my Ruby bra. The same lace I used for this bra, and a previous Angie bra, was now being used to make the Clover Boybriefs.

I cut out two pair of panties, both with color-blocking, but I was only able to finish one pair. Gift sewing took over all other sewing.

Here are my new Clovers Boybriefs, with contour band and brief legs:I’ve used black and black cherry cotton Lycra for these, and rather than bands or elastic as the pattern calls for, I’m using black lace trim. I’m loving these panties!

Here’s my new Clover & Ruby set:Here they are from the back. Oh, this is a lovely set. I need to hurry up and get all my gifts sewn up so I can finish a second pair for me, and for Em.

The Clover pattern is on sale today for 20% off! You can find it here.

Happy creating & Merry Christmas!

Design and Draft Course

This past week I took the Bra Design & Draft course at Central Sewing Machines. I’ve wanted to take a bra drafting course for a few years now. With the course finally coming closer to home, I could do it.It was a pleasant surprise to find I knew the other students. We’d all taken either the Beginner Bra-making class or Shelley class at Central last year. And of course, we’d all taken those classes with Jeanette of Sew Uplifting Bras too. It was like a class reunion.

The first day was very exciting. We were all presented with a bag full of goodies. Now, others may not have been so thrilled with the goodies, but for a bunch of bra-makers, it was a thrill! Just take a look.This is the manual we were given. It has the complete Drafting course in it, as well as a bunch of other great resources.
We also got a full set of Long wires, and a complete set of Classic patterns (all the sizes). There were sample packs of duoplex and power net, a notebook, a binder (shown above), a set of curves, and a bra kit with findings. All in a great bag. I’m pretty sure that was the best swag bag ever.

Fabrics

The first day we learned about all different fabrics that can be used in bra-making or lingerie. Some of them were familiar to me, some were new. We were given samples too, with instructions on how they were best used, and not to be used. It’s all neatly contained in our new binder. One of the students is in a Fashion & Design course, and she said she’d learned more that day than she had in her Textiles class. It really was very useful. By the end of the first day, we’d all been measured and learned how to measure someone else by measuring one another – all under Jeanette’s instruction. We were almost ready for Day Two, but before that, we had homework to do.

Drafting

Day Two was the beginning of a lot of paper and pencil work. We were guided in the art of drafting. We started with our frames. I did something wrong. Jeanette told me what I did wrong, but I was tired and didn’t correct it right away. Let me tell you, all it takes is one little mistake to throw everything off. By the end of the day, we were sent home with homework again. This time we were to practice our drafting. We drafted frames for everyone in the class. Day Three built upon Day Two. We were starting our lower cup draft. Well, we needed our frame to be done correctly at this point, and the one I had with me in the class still wasn’t corrected. Things weren’t fitting together. Again, Jeanette pointed out what I’d done wrong on my frame. I was back to the drawing board. Literally. I’d had a little more practice drawing frames by Day Three after Day Two’s homework, so it went much more quickly. I was on track in no time. We finished the day with a draft of our lower cup, our upper cup, and lots of information on how to do adjustments if needed.

Day Four was similar to Day Three – still more paper, pencils, drafting, and information. Some of us even cut out our newly drafted patterns, and got in some sewing before the end of the day. One woman was almost finished her drafted bra on Day Four. I had my cups finished. I brought them home and put them in my fitting bra frame. I was thinking this would save me the time of completing the whole bra to see how close I was. There was one small little change I needed to make to my draft. That was incredibly encouraging.Something I’ve heard and read repeatedly is: To get accurate measurements you have to start with a well-fitting bra. It’s so true. Jeanette brought fitting bras with her, so we all started with a well-fitting bra to get our measurements. And it works!

Day Five was mostly a sewing day for me. But before I could sew, I had to re-draft my upper and lower cups with that one little change. I worked as quickly as I could so I could get to the sewing. I really wanted to be done by the end of the day. Thinking back, I could have just changed my pattern, but it was a drafting class, and I was getting a LOT of experience with drafting.

The great news is I did it. I finished the Bra Design & Draft course and came away with a perfectly fitting pattern and bra – that I drafted from measurements.On my drafted bra here, I added a couple of features just because I could. I gave this bra a Gothic arch, and a thinned band under the cups. This draft is for a Horizontal seam. This seaming is the basis for the ‘Heather’ bra. The Heather bra is actually a Wacoal bra. It’s the Retro Chic Full Figure Underwire Bra.

You can see this has a horizontal seam going across the cup. It’s so pretty. I’m already planning another ‘Heather’ using my new pattern. If you have the Craftsy Class Sewing Bras Foam, Lace & Beyond, Beverly shares how to make the Heather bra.

It was a great week. I can’t wait for the next course!

Happy creating!

A New Ruby

I wanted to make another Ruby. I am really loving the new patterns that are available. I’m thinking after this, another Angie, or maybe I’ll try the Jessica, and then the Amethyst pattern. Well, maybe I’ll do some of these fun new patterns in-between Christmas gift sewing and the Bra Drafting course I’m taking. I’ll share more on that next week.

Lace

 I did have a Ruby all cut out, so was working on that first. For my lace, I’m using some from Kantje Boord again. In fact, I’m using the same lace I used on my last Angie. The first photo below shows the lace on black Lycra (from the Kantjeboord website). The second photo is my black cherry bra with the lace flowers cut out and appliqued. I thought it would be fun to see how the same lace can look very different used in different ways. I’ll be using black duoplex and power net for my newest bra.

Ruby

For this Ruby, I did make one small alteration to the pattern. The straps felt a little too widely set for me, so I’m moving them in just a bit. I’m using my TNT cradle for this Ruby too. Other than that, the only alterations I made were for my Omega shape.

Here’s my Ruby:I am loving this! I love the colors. I love the shape and fit. Oh, these new patterns are so nice.

When making this Ruby, I did make another change – this time to the style of this Ruby. I decided in order to show the lace off as much as I wanted, I wouldn’t use fold-over elastic along the neckline edge. I changed the neckline to allow the lace scallops to show, and did what I usually do to stabilize a lace upper cup – sheer cup lining and some of that wonderful upper cup elastic from Kantje Boord.

Here’s my Ruby from the side:

And my Ruby from the back:I really do love this bra. It’s kind of funny, but my hubby is taking all the credit for this bra because he brought the lace back from Amsterdam. We all know there’s a little more to the bra than just lace. But he’s having fun taking credit.

To add a pop of color, I used a black cherry bow and added a black crystal to the bow’s center.It’s a very pretty pop of color.

Lastly, here are the two bras together:Even though I used the same lace on both of these bras, they definitely look different. Do you have a preference? Let me know which one you like best.

Happy creating!

BMS Challenge – November

I originally wasn’t going to make the November BMS Challenge – Support Your Man. Men need support too. Show them some love this November by making men’s underwear and see how creative you can get.My son loves his SAXX, and said he preferred them over the Michael Men’s Underwear pattern. He said he did wear the ones I gave him, but would prefer I bought him the real ones.

So. I wasn’t planning on sewing him any briefs this year. However, I read a comment (somewhere I can’t find now) regarding the Men’s underwear pattern. It was saying you could either do the front opening on the underwear OR the sling, but not both.

Right away I was thinking, ‘That’s not right.” I knew you could do both because my son has a pair that has both the front opening and the sling! I had him send me a picture of the front and inside. Let me just say, I’m a brave woman. That pair of SAXX is over four-years-old! He sent the pictures, and that underwear looked like it was over four-years-old.

However, it helped me see what I wanted to see.

Michael Underwear

Here are the Michael Men’s Underwear with a sling and front opening. I’ve lightened this photo to show the detail a little better.These are a basic black cotton Lycra. And you can see the front opening.

Here they are from the inside.The sling is a light blue. I chose that so it would show up better in these photos, and so it wouldn’t be a headache to sew black on black, on black, with black thread.

The key to making these underwear with a sling and front opening is that front piece. The pattern says to cut one. However, as you can see below, I’m not using just one piece – I’m using two pieces.I altered the front pattern to be a front-opening panel. And I cut two front panels.  Then one piece is flipped so it becomes a mirror of the other. The two pieces are basted together, making sure there’s an opening on each side, and on opposite sides. Then they can be used as one piece. After basting them, I add the sling just as I would normally add it according to the pattern.

Here are my son’s Michael’s from the side.And here they are from the back. (Again, lightened. The seams just wouldn’t show otherwise.) My son also let me know when I made him his last pair of Michael’s that he didn’t like the band. He found the elastic too firm for his liking. Now to be fair, he’s a personal fitness trainer, so probably doing a little more movement while wearing his. So this time instead of elastic, I simply made a band out of the same cotton Lycra.I’m sure he’ll find this more comfortable.

One last image.   Here are the Michael underwear showing the front and mirrored inside front openings both opened showing the blue sling behind them.

I hope my son likes these ones better than the last ones I made him.

Happy creating!