Bra-Making

Back to Basics – BMS February Challenge

~ Michelle

The February Challenge for Bra-Makers Supply is “Building on Basics – One of the keys to great bra-making is a solid skill foundation. This February, we challenge you to share with us techniques you have found to make your bra sewing easier, faster or more professional looking. We’ll be sharing tutorials on the basics of intimate apparel sewing. Think of this month as the underpinnings of your underthings.“

I have two ideas to share with you this month for the challenge. Both fall under the category of techniques. As well, both concern sewing on the channeling.

Tip One

My first tip is to use a little bit of Wonder Tape.I was first introduced to this marvelous tape through bag-making. It’s really great for holding a zipper in place for sewing, but I’ve found it to be wonderful in bra-making too.

I use it to hold the channeling in place at the top of the cup – whether at the underarm, or at the bridge. It’s a small thing, but I found the channeling would move a bit on me, and I didn’t want it to move. Pins were too awkward to use with the channeling. At one point when I was making a handbag, I thought to use the wash-away tape to hold the channeling. I have to say it works really well.

I snip off a little more than a 1/4″ of the tape, stick it to the duoplex, peel off the backing, and press the channeling in place with my fingers. Voila! It holds the channeling for me so I can start to sew without the channeling moving on me at all. Here it is with the backing on it still.And below no pins are needed to hold the channeling in place. The channeling will stay. It’s a little thing, but it really does help.  Did you notice on the package it says ‘wash-away’? That’s right. I can leave it right there after I sew on the channeling, and it will wash away in the laundry. It doesn’t get much better than that.

Tip Two

My second tip has to do with how I sew on the channeling. One of the things to watch when sewing on channeling is you don’t leave too small an opening for the wires. I wasn’t having a problem with this, but am always looking for neater, better, easier results.

I was using my Stitch-in-the-ditch foot to do some top-stitching and thought to use the same foot to sew on my channeling.  I use the guide on the foot to guide me along the curve of the channeling. I can sew nice and close to the edge of the channeling. And I don’t have to worry about not enough room for the wires.

Here is my foot all lined up with my wash-away-tape-held channeling.I move my needle to be where I want it and away I sew. This gives a nice, neat, close-to-the-edge finish to the channeling.

And of course, you can use it on both sides of the channeling to get that same neat finish. I hope these little tips are helpful.

Happy creating!

Fitting Bra One Done

~ Michelle ~ 4 Comments

Things aren’t completely settled after my FIL’s unexpected move last month. There is still a lot to be sorted out. But getting him settled, and the apartment cleaned out were the most important parts. The rest can be done when we have some time, and my hubby and I are doing bits here and there.

In spite of having all those things to sort out, I found some time to sew my first Fitting bra. When I was thinking about sewing 22 bras, I decided I’d start with the larger sizes first. I haven’t had a lot of opportunity to sew those smaller sizes, and thought they’d be a little more fun to sew. Those cute little bras will be my reward after sewing all the rest of the bras.

First Fitting Bra

Here’s my first bra. I chose to do them in ivory.   This is a 48 H Pin-up Girls Classic bra.

I can tell you, it was awfully hard to write the size on it. After taking care to sew it all so nicely, then to mark it up. Oh my! But the reality is I’m going to need to be able to see the size easily, so needed to mark it. It was hard though.

I’m sure after sewing and marking 21 more bras, it’ll be old hand to me.

Here’s the back of the bra. There were a couple of things I didn’t do while sewing this bra. I didn’t do any top-stitching. However, I did do some reinforcing stitching like at the strap and where the band attaches. It’s a little hard to see but there’s the seam and then that seam is reinforced with another seam. Those aren’t decorative stitches. Those are to strengthen the straps, and band.

Something else I didn’t do on this bra is finish the channeling at either the front, or the side. I wanted to keep the channeling open in case I need to use a different wire size than what is  normally used. Trust me, I know very well that a different wire size can be needed. So, I decided it will be better to not finish the channeling on these fitting bras.

Fitting Bra Two

Fitting Bra Two looks just like Fitting Bra One, doesn’t it? This is size 46 H. I’ve yet to mark it up, but I’ve decided to include a few other pertinent bits of information while writing on my bras. I’m also writing the wire size and the Bottom Cup Depth.I have a few other sewing projects waiting for me, but they’ll have to fit in and around these Fitting Bras. My goal is to get as many done in February as I can. Let’s see just how many I can do.

Happy creating!

We Got Your Back – BMS January Challenge 2019

~ Michelle ~ 4 Comments

The January Challenge for Bra-Makers Supply is We Got Your Back. The idea is to ‘make creative, unusual, or off-the-wall crazy backs for your bras, swimsuits, corsets or underwear. Yes, this month we are looking at bra backs and how to make them pretty and even more supportive than they usually are.’

Thinking about this challenge, I knew just what I wanted to do. A while back I received an email from Booby Traps about Bare Bax, a company that specialized in interchangeable bra backs. Not only that, but bra backs that are meant to be seen. I loved this idea!

Dual Reasoning

As well as participating in the challenge, I had another reason for wanting to make a bra with a fancy back – a gorgeous sweater my hubby gave me. Isn’t that a great back right there? I was thinking of wearing a camisole under this, but a bra with a fancy back might be more fun. A pop of color, that doesn’t look like a bra back might be just what I’d like behind this sweater.

My Challenges

The one challenge about my Challenge entry is I need my band to provide the support for my bra. So, rather than just use lace for a pretty back, I’m thinking lace backed with power net. The lace will still be all that’s seen though.

Another challenge I’m facing is I can’t get hooks & eyes in the same color I’m using for my bra. I’m making a lavender bra, but the 5 x 3 hooks and eyes don’t come in that color. Even hook and eye tape doesn’t come in lavender. I’m going to have to dye my hooks and eyes – a first for me. So, since I’m jumping into dyeing, I’m going to dye some elastics while I’m at it.

Dyeing

 My adventure into dyeing went pretty well. I had everything set out, including the bit of power net I wanted to match. Honestly, those findings weren’t in the dye two minutes before I looked at the hooks and eyes and thought, ‘They need to come out. Now.’

I turned around to grab my spatula handle, and they were already darker than I wanted!I realized just how quickly these findings will take color. However, the BMS Challenge for January was coming close to an end, so I decided these will do nicely.

I found dyeing very interesting. Look at the one ring and how it took color differently. One is noticeably darker than the others, but they were all in for the same amount of time.This has me thinking, I might want to do some timed tests with bits of elastic and such and record the results after say 1 minute, 2 minutes, 3 minutes…

Back to the Challenge.

My Fancy Back

  Here’s my lovely lavender bra, with a removable lace back.I’ve used 5 x 3 hook and eyes on each side of the bra to attach this back. I can take this off and use another back in the future (When I get another back made.)

As well, I’ve adjusted the height of my lace for my back. You can see how much I shortened the height of my lace by cutting and matching the pattern on it.

Here are the hooks and eyes that connect the back to the bra. And if you look closely, you can just barely see the seam in the middle of the lace. Below is my bra from the front. It doesn’t look any different from a normal bra.Lastly, here’s my bra under the sweater on my display.What a subtle but lovely little pop of color peeking out!

Happy creating!

When Repairs Don’t Go So Well

~ Michelle

There was no post last week because I was busy moving my FIL. There’s no time to sew when you’re packing up someone’s house. It’s been so busy, it’s taken me two weeks to finish this one bra.

A Bra Lament

One issue I’ve had fairly consistently with ready-to-wear bras is the wire on the left likes to break out of the channeling. I’m not sure why it’s only the left side, but it’s been consistent.

I haven’t had this problem with my me-made bras though. At least not until my most recent Ruby, that is. And I like this Ruby SO much. I was wearing it while out one day and the wire poked through the top of the channeling – on the left side. I spent the day trying to pushing it back in without drawing attention to myself and my bra woes.

Once back at home, I attempted a repair. Black thread on black channeling on black duoplex won. I made a hole in my very pretty new Ruby bra while trying to repair it.

I still have some of this gorgeous lace. So, I decided to make the bra again.Oh, I do like this lace. I’ve made an Angie, a Ruby and two pair of panties with this. And after cutting out a second Ruby, there is still more lace left over.

 My New-Same-as-the-Last Ruby

I’ve measured and re-measured to make sure everything about this new Ruby will be perfect. One of the things I’m still really delighting in is how my cups are fitting into the cradle now – without wrinkles. I just love how it looks now.

Here, see what I mean?There are no wrinkles, no puckers, no gathering. It looks clean and professional. Just the way I want my bras to look. I sent off a message to Jeanette telling her (again) how thankful I am for her class and all her little tips.

I jumped right in there and showed you the side of my new Ruby, so let me show you the front now. It’s almost exactly the same as my previous Ruby.   It doesn’t have its bow yet, but that’s still coming. I wanted to get my post out while it’s still today.

Here’s the back.I hope I can find a little more time to sew this week. My FIL is almost all moved into his new home, so a little bit more decorating, and I should be able to find time again.

Happy creating!

Plans for a New Year

~ Michelle

Happy New Year!

I know. I’m a few days late to use that greeting, but this is my first blog post of 2019. I thought I’d share with you some of my plans for this new year. It’s always fun for me to look back and see just how many of my plans I carry out.

BMS Challenge

One of the things I enjoyed this past year was participating in the Bra-Makers Challenge. I didn’t manage to participate each month, but when I did, it was fun. I enjoyed trying new fabrics, and learning a few new things.

Here’s a collage of my Challenge makes from 2018:

Nine out of twelve isn’t bad. Maybe I’ll do better in 2019. My highlight had to be my red satin bra and panty set from February.Yes. This was my favorite Challenge make.

So, I’m thinking of doing the Challenge again in 2019. You can read all about the 2019 Challenge here. The details for January are posted already as well. You can find them here.

Drafting and More

Some of my plans for 2019 are a result of my taking the Drafting course. That was something I’ve wanted to take for at least three years now. And it was as wonderful as I thought. I’m so glad I took the course.

The next course has been scheduled too – Bra Fitting 101. It’s another week-long course, and I’m sure it will be as great as the Drafting course was. You can find out more about it here.

That course is in the Spring, so to keep busy between now and then, I’ll be making some Fitting Bras. I’ll be making 22 Fitting Bras to cover the most used sizes. So, my posts might be a bit monochromatic while I’m sewing them all up. Or I may not post weekly. I’ll have to see how things are working themselves out.

You might wonder why I need to make fitting bras. Well, I’m going to continue taking these professional courses and hopefully begin a new bra-making adventure using the skills I’m learning.

House Morrighan

I’ve also had a great time in 2018 being a tester for House Morrighan. The patterns are lovely. It’s great to have a bralette pattern, or chemise pattern that’s been designed with curves in mind.

One mis-perception is the patterns are only plus sized. They’re not. House Morrighan covers smaller sizes too. I’ve been making either a 6 or 8 for Em, and a 12 for me. That’s definitely not only plus sized.

 In 2019 I plan to continue testing HM patterns. The next release will be a free nursing adaptation for the Poppy, Dahlia, and Abbie. I’ve had a sneak peek at a couple more patterns that are coming too. They’re lovely! Stay tuned.

Libelle Sewing

As if all that wasn’t enough to keep me busy for the year. I’m also going to be sewing some samples for Libelle Sewing.

Look at these samples, and my pup.How could I not want to sew something with a little silver and tan pup like mine? There are so many panels coming, but not until Spring. We all will have to wait for a little bit for this adorableness.

It’s looking like a busy but fun year ahead!

Happy creating!

A New Ruby

~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

I wanted to make another Ruby. I am really loving the new patterns that are available. I’m thinking after this, another Angie, or maybe I’ll try the Jessica, and then the Amethyst pattern. Well, maybe I’ll do some of these fun new patterns in-between Christmas gift sewing and the Bra Drafting course I’m taking. I’ll share more on that next week.

Lace

 I did have a Ruby all cut out, so was working on that first. For my lace, I’m using some from Kantje Boord again. In fact, I’m using the same lace I used on my last Angie. The first photo below shows the lace on black Lycra (from the Kantjeboord website). The second photo is my black cherry bra with the lace flowers cut out and appliqued. I thought it would be fun to see how the same lace can look very different used in different ways. I’ll be using black duoplex and power net for my newest bra.

Ruby

For this Ruby, I did make one small alteration to the pattern. The straps felt a little too widely set for me, so I’m moving them in just a bit. I’m using my TNT cradle for this Ruby too. Other than that, the only alterations I made were for my Omega shape.

Here’s my Ruby:I am loving this! I love the colors. I love the shape and fit. Oh, these new patterns are so nice.

When making this Ruby, I did make another change – this time to the style of this Ruby. I decided in order to show the lace off as much as I wanted, I wouldn’t use fold-over elastic along the neckline edge. I changed the neckline to allow the lace scallops to show, and did what I usually do to stabilize a lace upper cup – sheer cup lining and some of that wonderful upper cup elastic from Kantje Boord.

Here’s my Ruby from the side:

And my Ruby from the back:I really do love this bra. It’s kind of funny, but my hubby is taking all the credit for this bra because he brought the lace back from Amsterdam. We all know there’s a little more to the bra than just lace. But he’s having fun taking credit.

To add a pop of color, I used a black cherry bow and added a black crystal to the bow’s center.It’s a very pretty pop of color.

Lastly, here are the two bras together:Even though I used the same lace on both of these bras, they definitely look different. Do you have a preference? Let me know which one you like best.

Happy creating!

A Black Cherry Angie

~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

I really love the shape and lift some of these new patterns give, like the Angie, Ruby, Jessica, and the new Amethyst.This is the new Amethyst pattern.

These patterns are all lovely additions to our bra-sewing pattern collections. I  had planned to make another Angie and Ruby as I know they both fit wonderfully. I also want to try the new Jessica and Amethyst patterns too. All the while, I’ve been testing patterns for House Morrighan. I am having such a fun time!

On top of all these great patterns to be excited about, there were the lovely new kits my husband brought home from Amsterdam. I had to break into a kit, and see what I could  make with one.

Angie

   Angie was the first bra I wanted to make again. Here’s my latest Angie. This is with black cherry duoplex, and some of the lovely lace from Kantjeboord.I thought of a few ways to use lace on the Angie. I’ve seen people use it laid horizontally across the lower part of the cups. I’ve seen people use lace on every other cup piece, and on every cup piece. None of those were what I wanted to do for this one. I didn’t think any of those options would showcase this lace the way I wanted. So I decided to cut out the floral part of the lace, and applique it onto the cups. A little Misty Fuse to hold things in place, a small zigzag, and they look lovely.

Here’s a close up of the cup.Yes, this lace goes beautifully with the black cherry duoplex. I really like this! You can also see I’ve added a strap tab to this Angie. I like the strap tab addition and will likely continue to use one.

My inspiration for this came from wanting to use this lace, use this pattern, and my desire to make this more supportive by using duoplex. In the back of my mind, I remembered a blog post from The Lingerie Addict showing the most beautiful Japanese bras. Here’s one from the internet:This is not my bra, and not my photo. It is beautiful though, and shows you can use lace in different ways than just on the upper cup. If you want to see the most stunning lingerie, go look at the post I linked above. The bras are amazing.

With that memory in the back of my mind, I thought I can do applique on my bra as well. I think mine is lovely too.

Here’s the bra from the side:    You can see here, although the front is black cherry, I’ve used black for the back band and all the elastics.

And the back of the bra: The band has a downward hike to it.

I love how this came together.

As much fun as I’m having sewing bras and lingerie right now, I have to get busy sewing Christmas gifts. I won’t be showing any of those until after Christmas though.

Happy creating!

Another Knob

~ Michelle

Do you know what a knob is? I use one in my bra-making all the time.

A Knob

I’ve been using a knob for a few years now – almost since I started sewing bras. It’s a wooden ball, elevated, and on a base. It’s a great, very specialized, pressing tool for bra-making. I got this one from Bra-Makers Supply. You can find them here.

I love mine, but do have one little problem with it. It’s little. Well, it’s littler than me. I find when I’m using it, I’m only ironing about a two-inch part of the seam at a time, and my seams are all a fair amount longer than two-inches.

I’ve wanted a larger one for a long time. I knew they were available at one time. Here’s an old photo, from Bra-Makers Supply’s site. I had kept it for inspiration.This was from the old store location, and it showed one of the walls. Do you see down there on the left?

Here. Let me show you what I’m looking at.Knobs! And they came in different sizes! Larger sizes! Unfortunately, Beverly said she was no longer able to get the other sizes. So, I have been looking for a wooden finial to make a larger knob since I saw this photo.

Options

  I’ve searched all the home building stores for something that would work. And I’ve searched online as well. I did find a few options, but they were just too expensive when the shipping was added.

Here. Let me share with you a few of the options I found.I found this on eBay. It’s a wooden ball with a flat bottom. I’m sure it would have been great, but the $65 shipping was way too much for me.

I kept looking.

Next I found this finial.I found this on Mr. Spindle. I called their 1-800 number thinking a knob the right size was finally going to be within a reasonable amount, and then I was told the shipping. The shipping wasn’t much less than what the eBay shop was charging. I started to think of giving up the search again.

I have to say, I shared my whole story with the receptionist at Mr. Spindle. What I was going to use it for, how I’d been searching for a few years now and not finding anything, or finding something and the shipping being too expensive. Then the receptionist said to just wait a minute. She came back on the line and had the shipping down to $20. She did warn me there might be customs on it when it arrived. I bought it.

More good news – there were no extra charges when my order arrived.

My New Knob

Lastly, let me show you the difference between the two knobs and just why I’m so excited about this.My first thought is, ‘That looks huge!’ However, when sewing the cup seams together, they’re still relatively flat. A larger pressing surface is going to be great!

To give a better perspective, here’s the smaller knob with the first too-small Angie cup over it.The cup dwarfs the knob.

And here’s that same Angie cup on the new knob. The knob fills a lot more of the cup. What a difference this will make!

I’ve asked my hubby to help me make the base. We’ve found a post cap that worked. I’m not sure exactly how he attached it, but it works perfectly!

Here’s my completed knob. I have to tell you, it works wonderfully! I was using it on my most recent bra – Ruby II. I love this!

Happy creating!

Ruby II

~ Michelle

I was pretty confident my second attempt with the Pin-up Girls Ruby pattern would work, and I was right. Is that as much of a relief to read as it is for me to write? What a feeling!

Ruby II

 My first Ruby was really close in the fit. The only reason it didn’t fit was because I hadn’t read all the instructions – when making Ruby in fabric you need to go up one size.

My first Ruby.This Ruby fit everywhere, but was a little small in the cups.

Here’s my newest Ruby hot off the sewing machine. Do you see how the upper cup is shorter? It’s a lovely modern-looking pattern, and I really like it. It gives great lift. After wearing it for a full day, I can tell you it’s comfortable.For this Ruby, I’ve used some gorgeous lace I bought from Merckwaerdigh, duoplex and power net from Bra-Makers Supply, and some amazing strap elastic I bought in a destash group.

Here’s the lace close up.It’s so pretty! I think I’m going to save the rest of this lace for another bra rather than use it up on panties. It’s just too pretty.

Here’s the bra from the side:One of the things I like about the Ruby pattern is the underarm is nice and short. I don’t have to take it in.

Here’s Ruby from the back:  Ooh, I love that strap elastic. It’s very firm, and I like the detail on it.

For my Ruby, I’ve used gold-toned rings and sliders. And I had a little fun using them for detail on the front of the bra.This is also a nice close-up of that lovely strap elastic.

I’m trying to decide how I want to embellish the finished bra. Do I want bows? Or a modern take on a bow? Or just one of the roses cut out.

Here are a few of those ideas just to see how they look.  Hmm. I’ll keep thinking.

Here’s Ruby one last time with embellishments. I wasn’t completely happy with any of the ones above, so went through my stash of bows. I found the perfect bows for my Ruby. A small black bow with a pearl for the center front, and two small black bows without pearls for the straps.

Ruby is a beautiful pattern, and I look forward to making another one soon.

Happy creating!