Creative Bug Tap Pants

I had learned about Creative Bug a few years ago, but really didn’t take advantage of the classes on there. Madalynne has a few classes on there. Gretchen Hirsch also has one – the Tap Pants class.Aren’t these just darling?

I had a very old culotte slip I wanted to replace. I thought this class would be the perfect jumping off place to replace that sad well-worn slip.

For my slip, I decided that I would use some special fabric I had. Lilypa had brought in some gorgeous stretch silk. I felt confident that I would get a well fitting slip because the class take you through drafting your pattern from your measurements.   Isn’t that lovely? When I first saw it, I just had to have some. And I thought this project would be perfect for this material. I love them! One thing I didn’t realize when I bought the material is the map isn’t all ‘right side up’. The continents are both right side up, and upside down. So if you see this and fall in love, be aware of this.

If you’re making a smaller garment, you may be able to get everything right side up. Otherwise, this is just the design. I made a mistake that was quite upsetting. I couldn’t believe I did it really. One of the class suggestions was to use pinking shears to keep the edges from fraying. Well, I love my rotary pinking blade and use it often to trim seams on panties. I just love the look.

So I happily grabbed my pinking rotary cutter and trimmed all my seams with it. Then. Somehow. I didn’t feel I had more fabric under one of my seams. I cut through the back of the slip! There’s nothing to be done about it now.

I’ve found a supplier for tricot with rave reviews. I plan to make a few more of these but can’t make them all out of silk.

Happy creating!

Drafting at the Stitches Conference

Again, it’s been a while since I’ve posted anything, but I thought I’d share a little of what I’ve been doing.

I haven’t done any sewing, and I am missing it. My energy is coming back, so I’m thinking sewing will happen soon. I have a wonderful new BMS pattern, and a great kit from B,Wear to make my own Dreamcatcher knockoff.  However, before I started work on fitting a new pattern, there was the Stitches Conference.

I’ve linked the Haus of Stitches because so many people said they didn’t know about the conference, or Beverly teaching at this conference. Sign up for the newsletter and you’ll hear if she’ll be doing this again next year.

This year the Stitches Conference offered in-person classes, hybrid class that were both in-person and online, and there was one class that was online only: Bra Design and Draft with Beverly Johnson. As soon as I heard about that class, I said to my husband that I would have loved to take that class. He said, ‘Why don’t you take it?. Sign up.’ I jumped on that opportunity!

It was great! There were 16 of us in the class, and even though I’ve done drafting before, I still picked up so many tips. It inspired me to break out my pencils and paper and get some drafting done again.

Hopefully, next time I write, I’ll have some sewing to show! Happy creating!

Root Cast

Since my last post, I have to say that I have worn my new bra a few times, and it’s wearable. It’s not pinching all the time. I think the Flexi-wires are helping with that.

After my last post when I planned to work on my draft some more, things went in a different direction. I went to my sewing room planning to draft up a hybrid cradle. Then walked out again, It was time to do a root cast. No more getting close, or thinking I had the correct shape. Out came the masking tape. I was making a root cast.

I taped piece after piece after piece on myself. I wanted it at least four layers thick so when I removed it, it didn’t distort at all when pulled away from my skin. I got it. Now to test this against all the wires I have.

Here it is with the Orange 38 wire. This is the wire I thought was closest to my shape, and it’s not totally off. However, it’s not exactly the same either.This was so odd because when I traced my root with a wire and compared it to the different wire shapes, this was the closest in size and shape. Below is the photo I took of my root trace over the Orange wires.However, after wearing this wire, I can tell you it’s not the right wire for me.

Next up was the 38 XL wire from BMS. This is the wire I’ve been told more than once is the correct wire for me. However, like the Orange wire, I knew from wearing this wire that it wasn’t correct.   I didn’t have to see this wire-root comparison to know this wire wasn’t the right size or shape. I knew this wire pinched on the sides. Again, this is not the right wire for me.

A few months back when I was working on my wire trace, I bent a BMS 38 XL wire out to my correct size.So, of course I needed to see how this wire would compare to my root trace. This is about as good as it gets. My only hesitation with this is I’ve heard the wires aren’t always as stable (can break) with washing and wearing after they’ve been bent. I had to bend it a fair amount. So, although this is an option, I still had one other wire to try.

Here’s the Flexi-wire.Hmm. About the same as the bent wire above, but I don’t have to bend anything. It will flex and take my shape.

I did try the 38 Flexi-wire too, but it’s just a bit too short for me, but as you can see, the 40 Flexi-wire is the better fit.If you’re interested in reading more about bending wires, and what can happen, Jennifer (Porcelynne) mentions that in her recent blog post.  

Now to take that root trace, and draft a cradle for exactly my shape.

Happy creating!

Wire Woes Still

I’m still having issues with my wires! Still. I can’t even begin to tell you how frustrating this is. As I’m sitting here thinking about it, I remember my mom telling me she couldn’t wear a bra with wires – they always hurt her. I guess I know what I inherited from mom.

I’ll never forget when I did my moulage (back in 2014), I took one look and thought that’s my mom’s body! Yes, I’m really understanding why my mom couldn’t wear underwired bras.

However, I’m not ready to give up yet. 

 My pretty new summery bra hurts. It doesn’t hurt all over. Just in one little place. You all know what an uncomfortable bra feels like – it only needs to hurt in one place.

It feels like the wires are pinching me at the top of the channeling.Right there where the pink arrow is pointing.

I took out the Orange 38 wires. I don’t think the are wide enough at the top. They’re close in shape, but not quite a match for me.

I didn’t close the channeling on this bra so I could test the wires. I tried the Orange wires for a day and knew they were not going to work. Now I’m wearing Flexi-wires, but my bra is still pinching there. Because Flexi-wires have so much flex, I’m thinking it’s the cradle now. I made this cradle to fit a 38 Orange wire.

Thinking about this, I think I need to alter my cradle. A cradle that fits a 38 wire is the right size for the bottom of my cradle, but I think I need a cradle that fits a 40 wire for the top.

When I was first looking at wires with my root trace, I could see the 40 wire fit the top of my trace. 

Here’s what I’m thinking. I’ll make a copy of two cradles – one that fits a 38 wire and one that fits a 40 wire. Then I’ll use the bottom of the 38-sized cradle and the top of the 40-sized one, smoothing out the line between the two pattern sizes.  Above is a cradle that fits a 38 wire drawn in pencil. Then the pink is the cradle that fits a 40 wire. The darker dotted line is the blending of the two.

I’m off to draft a new cradle.

Happy creating!

Basic Beige

A couple of great sewing friends contacted me. We’d all taken classes with Jeanette of Sew Uplifting, but we were all feeling a lack of motivation. We decided to get together over Zoom, and agree to some accountability – we’d all make something by the end of April.

I shared I was just weary, and didn’t want to keep working on my draft right now. I don’t want to give up on it, but I wanted to sew again. So I said I’d sew a bra.

I need a basic beige bra in my wardrobe, so that’s what I made.This is my drafted frame and the cups from B, Wear’s Angie pattern.

This bra is using my new wire style and size, and unfortunately, although that seems to be fitting better, I now need to go up a size in the cups.

The Omega shape is causing problems again. 

I’m using a size smaller wire, so I had to lower both the front and the sides of the cups to get it to fit in the frame. This is also a narrower frame – to fit the wire. Once I put the bra on, I could see I really need a power bar to pull in everything on the side.

Something I really like about the Angie pattern is how rounded the cups are. They give such a nice shape when wearing the bra too. However, using the smaller wire size and narrower frame, the rounder shape didn’t seem to be fitting into my frame as well.

   The back is fine. The band is too. It was comfortable, and stayed in place. However, I’m very disappointed this is not wearable.

I’m off to work on getting my next bra to fit.

Happy creating!

Some Good News

Hello!

Sorry I’ve been quiet for over a month. Spring is coming, the weather is warming up, it’s sunny most days. I’m feeling more motivated to be creative again.

Something I have been doing is knitting. I’ve been enjoying the slow pace of it. I’ve been finishing the Annie’s Knit Kit. I’m done all the squares now, and have started blocking them. Here’s the square I’m blocking right now. It rolls under, and it isn’t actually square.After it’s all pinned it’s square. Then I spray it really well with water and leave it to dry. I really am enjoying this. It’s wonderful to unpin each square and see how nice it looks.

I had some good news this week. My Instagram account is back! My photos are all there. I’m so happy. I didn’t want to try to find all my old photos and upload them again.

I’ll be back in a couple of weeks with more makes. I’ve decided to let the drafting rest for a bit. I miss actual sewing, so it’s time to make a few lovelies again. 

Happy creating! 

A New Discovery

I’m following along with the Drafting course on the Porcelynne website, and I’m learning new tricks and tips.

The first one I want to share with you is something you’ve probably heard about: A flexible ruler.I’ll be honest. I bought one of these after reading it would help to do a root trace. It didn’t help me with that at all. Not one little bit. At least it didn’t help me at all.

However, watching the course I saw a brilliant use for it! Use it to measure along the curve of the wire line. Really brilliant!

I just curve the ruler along the curve of my circle and mark where I need to mark. It’s so much easier than bending a flexible ruler, trying to hold it with one hand, and then mark with the other.

I will no longer view this as a useless item I picked up. This is really great!

Happy creating!

Drafting Again

Just a short little post today. I’m also posting a little earlier than my usual Saturday posting. 

I’ve been working on bra drafting again. This past month, there was a live draft-along on Facebook. It was for the Bare Essentials drafting method, so I signed up.

Now, if you’re interested in the drafting course, or any other Bare Essentials course, they’re on sale this week. The sale ends Sunday, so I thought I’d post early just in case someone was interested in getting in on the sale. (I have no affiliation with the sale.) 

I didn’t draft along. I was still trying to get my head around this way of drafting. It’s quite different from the Beverly Johnson method, which was the method I knew, and have used. So after a week of watching along, I knew I still needed help. Both instructors were offering one-on-one sessions. I signed up with both of them, and I’m really glad I did. They both come at the process differently, and I think things are finally starting to click.

The one instructor, Jane, has come up with an online calculator you can purchase, which does all the calculations for you. It’s wonderful!  I can’t even begin to say how helpful this is. Every mathematical measurement is given here for your draft. You put in your measurements and it does it automatically. You just have to refer back to your numbers to do your draft. It’s very helpful.

I have a pattern, and tester band to try out. I’ll let you know how things go.

Happy creating!

Progress on Drafting

I’ve shown you a very little bit of the new drafting course I’m taking. It’s Bare Essentials by Porcelynne, and it’s different from what I’ve done before.

The first thing we do in this course is the root trace. I also shared with you how I didn’t really think I needed that. It turns out I did.I knew my wires weren’t perfect, but the 38s pinched, and the 40s seemed a little too big. As it turns out, the 40s are just a little too big around the base, and the 38s are a touch too narrow at the top.

The next step is to draft a band. That wasn’t very different from what I’ve done before.

Something that is very different is Jennifer has a calculator on her blog that is used in conjunction with the 3rd Bare Essentials book, and the drafting course. It’s very interesting.There is more to the calculator, but this is just a glimpse. Take a look. It really is very interesting.

I asked about drafting for an Omega cup because with the drafting method I’d learned previously, I needed two sets of wires. One for drafting the frame (my actual wire size), and one for drafting the cups (the wire that’s usually corresponds to my cup size).

However, with the Bare Essential’s method, the cups’ curves are built into the calculator. I don’t need that second wire to draft the cups. This will be totally new to me.

As well as the calculator, there’s another tool available. Jane’s Foundations has one too. This one you have to purchase, but it’s been made with input and support from Porcelynne’s. You can find it here.

Here’s what Jane’s Foundation’s calculator looks like.

This aspect of drafting is all new to me. It’s seems much more in depth and detailed. I’ll let you know how things are going when I complete more of my course.

Happy drafting & creating!

Wire Trace Results

A New Drafting Method

Something I’ve wanted to do for the past year is learn Porcelynne‘s method of drafting bras. It looks quite different from the BMS method I’ve learned and I was intrigued. 

Watching a few of Jennifer’s classes in the Great Bra Sewing Bee helped give me the push I needed to try this.

First things first, as I mentioned my last post, I needed to do a root trace to determine my wire size. Well, I actually didn’t think I really needed to do a root trace because I have all the wire sizes from BMS – they came with the Drafting course I took.  Still, I wanted the experience of doing a root trace with copper wire. And I’m very glad I did.

My Results

This is my copper wire root trace on laid over a 38 Extra Long wire from BMS. And in case you’re wondering, the copper wire is much longer than my root trace.This is pretty close. I’d say it would be an exact fit – except for the upper part of the wire. This would explain why I felt the 38 wires were pinching me.

Here’s the same copper wire trace over a 40 Long wire from BMS.My trace is smaller at the bottom, but it matches the width at the top of the wire.

So, it seems I am in-between wire sizes.

After asking for some help in the Support for Bare Essentials group, it was suggested I watch this video.

After realizing I could bend my wires, I tried gently bending one of my 38 wires. I really didn’t want it to snap while doing this, so gentle was the way to go.And I have my perfect wire! And I have a whole bunch of 38 Extra Long wires, so this will be very handy to do so I can still use them.

I was also given another great tip in the Support group: Emerald Erin carries wires that are a little wider at the top.

I printed out her wire chart for her Orange wires, and perfection! And without me bending anything.The next part of the course is to make a fitting band.

Happy creating!