I completed my first Bare Essentials draft. In fact, I completed two of them – one for a regular wire, and one for a ‘demi’ wire.
The Orange wire isn’t actually a demi wire, but it’s a little bit lower in the front. When I combine the wire shape, the wire size I need, and being an Omega shape, it made sense to try the demi draft.
I have to say, the Bare Essentials drafting process is still something I’m learning. I won’t say I have it down pat just yet, but I’m making progress.
This past week I drew up my draft. It actually looks like bra cup pattern pieces, so I thought I’d be close.
I sewed together a very quick tester bra. I told my husband it was the ugliest bra I’ve ever sewn. He said he couldn’t believe I would make anything ugly. This isn’t designed to be pretty. It’s designed to determine if you have the correct volume before you move on in the process.
I wasn’t exaggerating when I said it wasn’t pretty! It’s not.
From the straps being pinned on, thread ends not cut, everything just sewn enough to hold it together to try on once, it has served its purpose.
Even the strap elastic is only tacked down quickly to work for that single fitting.
As terrible as it looks, it worked. I have the correct volume to move onto the next stage, which will be to take this draft pattern, and begin to alter it to the shape I want.
However, I think I’ll redo the draft another time or two to make sure I have this well figured out before I move on.
Happy creating!
So after a week of watching along, I knew I still needed help. Both instructors were offering one-on-one sessions. I signed up with both of them, and I’m really glad I did. They both come at the process differently, and I think things are finally starting to click.
I can’t even begin to say how helpful this is. Every mathematical measurement is given here for your draft. You put in your measurements and it does it automatically. You just have to refer back to your numbers to do your draft. It’s very helpful.
I knew my wires weren’t perfect, but the 38s pinched, and the 40s seemed a little too big. As it turns out, the 40s are just a little too big around the base, and the 38s are a touch too narrow at the top.
There is more to the calculator, but this is just a glimpse. Take a look. It really is very interesting.
Still, I wanted the experience of doing a root trace with copper wire. And I’m very glad I did.
This is pretty close. I’d say it would be an exact fit – except for the upper part of the wire. This would explain why I felt the 38 wires were pinching me.
My trace is smaller at the bottom, but it matches the width at the top of the wire.
And I have my perfect wire! And I have a whole bunch of 38 Extra Long wires, so this will be very handy to do so I can still use them.
The next part of the course is to make a fitting band.
And the 
Here’s my second pair.
I moved this seam only because I wanted it a little further forward. I could move it forward still, but really, I’m just playing with the seam at this point.
Happy creating!
There was a Fitting binder, and a bra and finding kit in my bag (not shown). As well as the great canvas tote. For students who hadn’t taken the Drafting course, they got a few more goodies like sample packs of Duoplex and Power Net, as well as a set of Pin-Up Girls patterns. I had all those already.
On Day Two we were starting to learn what changes to make for different alterations – all using those little tiny bra pattern pieces. It was really great to have these, and to have them to keep as a reference.
You can see here in this example, it wasn’t a complicated adjustment – just lengthening the band. Having the samples makes it much neater to look and see any of the adjustments – much better than me freehand drawing these examples.
Overall, I have to say it was a great class, and gave us all some fabulous tools to take and use going forward.
Yes. This was my favorite Challenge make.
How could I not want to sew something with a little silver and tan pup like mine? There are so many panels coming, but not until Spring. We all will have to wait for a little bit for this adorableness.
It was a pleasant surprise to find I knew the other students. We’d all taken either the Beginner Bra-making class or Shelley class at Central last year. And of course, we’d all taken those classes with Jeanette of 
This is the manual we were given. It has the complete Drafting course in it, as well as a bunch of other great resources.
We also got a full set of Long wires, and a complete set of Classic patterns (all the sizes). There were sample packs of duoplex and power net, a notebook, a binder (shown above), a set of curves, and a bra kit with findings. All in a great bag. I’m pretty sure that was the best swag bag ever.
By the end of the first day, we’d all been measured and learned how to measure someone else by measuring one another – all under Jeanette’s instruction. We were almost ready for Day Two, but before that, we had homework to do.
Day Three built upon Day Two. We were starting our lower cup draft. Well, we needed our frame to be done correctly at this point, and the one I had with me in the class still wasn’t corrected. Things weren’t fitting together. Again, Jeanette pointed out what I’d done wrong on my frame. I was back to the drawing board. Literally. I’d had a little more practice drawing frames by Day Three after Day Two’s homework, so it went much more quickly. I was on track in no time. We finished the day with a draft of our lower cup, our upper cup, and lots of information on how to do adjustments if needed.
Something I’ve heard and read repeatedly is: To get accurate measurements you have to start with a well-fitting bra. It’s so true. Jeanette brought fitting bras with her, so we all started with a well-fitting bra to get our measurements. And it works!
On my drafted bra here, I added a couple of features just because I could. I gave this bra a Gothic arch, and a thinned band under the cups. This draft is for a Horizontal seam. This seaming is the basis for the ‘Heather’ bra. The Heather bra is actually a Wacoal bra. It’s the 