Patterns

A Black Cherry Angie

~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

I really love the shape and lift some of these new patterns give, like the Angie, Ruby, Jessica, and the new Amethyst.This is the new Amethyst pattern.

These patterns are all lovely additions to our bra-sewing pattern collections. I  had planned to make another Angie and Ruby as I know they both fit wonderfully. I also want to try the new Jessica and Amethyst patterns too. All the while, I’ve been testing patterns for House Morrighan. I am having such a fun time!

On top of all these great patterns to be excited about, there were the lovely new kits my husband brought home from Amsterdam. I had to break into a kit, and see what I could  make with one.

Angie

   Angie was the first bra I wanted to make again. Here’s my latest Angie. This is with black cherry duoplex, and some of the lovely lace from Kantjeboord.I thought of a few ways to use lace on the Angie. I’ve seen people use it laid horizontally across the lower part of the cups. I’ve seen people use lace on every other cup piece, and on every cup piece. None of those were what I wanted to do for this one. I didn’t think any of those options would showcase this lace the way I wanted. So I decided to cut out the floral part of the lace, and applique it onto the cups. A little Misty Fuse to hold things in place, a small zigzag, and they look lovely.

Here’s a close up of the cup.Yes, this lace goes beautifully with the black cherry duoplex. I really like this! You can also see I’ve added a strap tab to this Angie. I like the strap tab addition and will likely continue to use one.

My inspiration for this came from wanting to use this lace, use this pattern, and my desire to make this more supportive by using duoplex. In the back of my mind, I remembered a blog post from The Lingerie Addict showing the most beautiful Japanese bras. Here’s one from the internet:This is not my bra, and not my photo. It is beautiful though, and shows you can use lace in different ways than just on the upper cup. If you want to see the most stunning lingerie, go look at the post I linked above. The bras are amazing.

With that memory in the back of my mind, I thought I can do applique on my bra as well. I think mine is lovely too.

Here’s the bra from the side:    You can see here, although the front is black cherry, I’ve used black for the back band and all the elastics.

And the back of the bra: The band has a downward hike to it.

I love how this came together.

As much fun as I’m having sewing bras and lingerie right now, I have to get busy sewing Christmas gifts. I won’t be showing any of those until after Christmas though.

Happy creating!

Ruby II

~ Michelle

I was pretty confident my second attempt with the Pin-up Girls Ruby pattern would work, and I was right. Is that as much of a relief to read as it is for me to write? What a feeling!

Ruby II

 My first Ruby was really close in the fit. The only reason it didn’t fit was because I hadn’t read all the instructions – when making Ruby in fabric you need to go up one size.

My first Ruby.This Ruby fit everywhere, but was a little small in the cups.

Here’s my newest Ruby hot off the sewing machine. Do you see how the upper cup is shorter? It’s a lovely modern-looking pattern, and I really like it. It gives great lift. After wearing it for a full day, I can tell you it’s comfortable.For this Ruby, I’ve used some gorgeous lace I bought from Merckwaerdigh, duoplex and power net from Bra-Makers Supply, and some amazing strap elastic I bought in a destash group.

Here’s the lace close up.It’s so pretty! I think I’m going to save the rest of this lace for another bra rather than use it up on panties. It’s just too pretty.

Here’s the bra from the side:One of the things I like about the Ruby pattern is the underarm is nice and short. I don’t have to take it in.

Here’s Ruby from the back:  Ooh, I love that strap elastic. It’s very firm, and I like the detail on it.

For my Ruby, I’ve used gold-toned rings and sliders. And I had a little fun using them for detail on the front of the bra.This is also a nice close-up of that lovely strap elastic.

I’m trying to decide how I want to embellish the finished bra. Do I want bows? Or a modern take on a bow? Or just one of the roses cut out.

Here are a few of those ideas just to see how they look.  Hmm. I’ll keep thinking.

Here’s Ruby one last time with embellishments. I wasn’t completely happy with any of the ones above, so went through my stash of bows. I found the perfect bows for my Ruby. A small black bow with a pearl for the center front, and two small black bows without pearls for the straps.

Ruby is a beautiful pattern, and I look forward to making another one soon.

Happy creating!

New Orange Lingerie Pattern

~ Michelle

Introducing the Lansdowne bra sewing pattern!

The Lansdowne is a cleavage enhancing, plunging underwire bra. The outer cup works like a super power bar, moving the breasts toward the center of the body.

To complete the cleavage enhancing effect, the inner cup is cut straight down from the strap point to the low bridge at the center front.

Available now for A to DD cups in size 30 to 40 bands!

The Poppy Bralette

~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

When I started sewing my own bras, the Pin-up Girls Shelley pattern wasn’t even available yet. So many patterns have been released since then.

There are some new bra and bralette patterns available right now. And I’ve heard there are more patterns coming too. I know of three more soon-to-be-released patterns. What an exciting time to be making our own bras!

The Poppy Bralette was released today.

The Poppy Bralette

  I heard of this new bralette pattern when the designer put out a call for testers, so I offered to test the pattern. Do you see the cup sizes? This pattern isn’t all smaller sizes. This one will actually fit me. The only other bralette pattern I know of that is in my size range is the Pin-up Girls Sweet Sixteen pattern. I was really excited to learn of another designer who’s designed for larger cup sizes.

Here’s the sizing for the Poppy Bralette.

If you need a smaller size, those are coming too. The designer simply decided to test and release the larger sizes first. When the smaller sizes are available, I’ll let you know.

Other than the larger cup sizes, another appealing feature of this pattern is it can be made in cotton Lycra. Ooh! I love cotton Lycra!

Materials

This bralette can be made in CL. It can also be made in Viscose Spandex, Stretch Lace, and Stretch Mesh. It’s fully lined. You can line it with cotton Lycra again, or something with a little more support like power net.

I’m going to use cotton Lycra for my main fabric and line it with power net. Here’s the fabric I’m using:Recognize this? I just used this gorgeous cotton Lycra to make my knotty pants. I think a pretty bralette to match will be very fun.

My Poppy Bralette

    Here’s my Poppy Bralette.I think it’s adorable! However, it’s a smidge small in the cups.

After talking with the designer, we both thought it might have been the power net lining. Power mesh might have been a better idea, or simply cotton Lycra.

I did sew this together with wash-away thread, so I’m going to soak it and then try  those changes.

Impressions

  Making this bralette with power net as the lining makes it very supportive. It’s definitely not flimsy!

I like the shape of this bralette too. The cup shape is flattering, the wide back and sides are very comfortable and supportive.

Here’s the side:  I need to gather the elastic under the arm more. I’m very shallow there, and have to make that adjustment on almost every bra I sew.

Here’s the back view:Look at this nice deep back.

One of the things that impressed me the most with this pattern is almost all the seams are enclosed. Talk about comfortable! Just look here at the side seam.This photo shows the side seam and the under-bust seam. Both are enclosed. It’s a very nice feature. The only seam not enclosed is the center front.

Here’s the center cup seam, which is enclosed too and you can see the center front. It’s not enclosed, but it’s sewn down flat.     Do you see that nice wide elastic at the bottom edge? That’s 3/4″/19 mm elastic. Another supportive feature of this bralette.

My Second Poppy

Seeing as I used power net on my first Poppy, I decided to use all cotton Lycra for the second one.This looks the same on the outside, but the inside is lovely soft cotton Lycra.  Soft, comfortable, and those lovely enclosed seams. It’s really nice.

On this above photo you can see the internal sling I added this time. I wasn’t sure cotton Lycra alone would be as supportive.

Although this is still a touch small in the cups, I’ve still worn this all day and it’s wonderful.

Here is my Poppy with my knotty pants.What a cute set!

I do have a third Poppy in the works, but that will be another post.

Happy creating!

Ruby for the Challenge

~ Michelle ~ 4 Comments

This is a long post. I’ll warn you right up front. But I had a lot to share on the new Pin-up Girls’ Ruby pattern.

I had no time for the June Bra-makers Challenge. I was testing two patterns – you’ve seen the Ingrid pattern. There’s another new pattern coming in just a few days. I’ll post about that in a couple of days.

As well, I had to make the Knotty Pants as soon as that pattern was released, and I’m loving them.

But, I am trying to fit the challenge in again this month. To do that, I’m combining two things for this post – I’m trying the new Ruby pattern, and I’m making Ruby for my Bra-makers Challenge submission.

The Challenge

  The July Challenge was Your Birthday Suit, and the challenge was to work with sheer fabrics.This pattern has quite a few options listed. Foam-lined or all fabric. Underwired or wire-free. The bras I’ve seen sewn up are lovely! Here’s one from the BMS website:This is so pretty!

Ruby for the Challenge

Here’s my Ruby/July Challenge. I think she’s she’s lovely!I’ve made this with sheer cup lining, and black elastics. I think it works very well together.

 Here’s the side view.Ruby has a lovely shape. It’s definitely a rounder shape to the cups.

The upper cup on this pattern is shorter. A shorter upper cup helps to give more lift.This pattern calls for 1/2-inch elastic for the bottom band, which is a bit of a change for me. I usually use 3/4-inch elastic. However, this is still supportive.

It also uses 3/8-inch elastic for the upper band. Another smaller elastic choice for me.

Here’s the back of the bra.Ruby doesn’t have fabric straps. For mine, because this is a tester to see how it will fit, I only used strap elastic. However, the pattern suggests sewing some ribbon over the elastic at the front for more support.How the straps attach on the Ruby is different too. The strap is attached to the ring at the front, giving it a lovely modern look.

Another feature Ruby has is the fold over elastic along the upper cup.It’s so sleek and modern-looking!

This photo shows just how sheer my Ruby really is.  She’s lovely.

Impressions of Ruby

My first impressions of Ruby are it’s a lovely pattern. It went together easily, with no problems at all. It does go together a little differently than Shelley, which I’m so used to making, but then it’s a different pattern. The two patterns have different neckline finishes, different straps, and a different cup shape.

I do think I’m going to enjoy Ruby and make another one soon. In fact, I already have a kit to make one.

Made for Omega?

I’d read somewhere that Ruby had sewing lines for Omega shapes. I quick email to Bra-makers Supply let me know this is not the case. There are seam lines marked on the pattern. However, those seam line could be used as a guide to adjust the pattern for Omega shapes.

This photo below shows a bit of the pattern with the seam lines pointed out. I’ve drawn in a curved red line where one could adjust the pattern if you’re an Omega shape.This adjustment I’m showing would shave off 1/4-inch from the wire line, but leave the fullness of the cup. You could shave off a 1/4-inch from other cup pieces too – as many as you needed.

PSA

Do you read all of the instructions before you start a project? I don’t always read them all, and I should!

I had read through the beginning of the pattern, and traced off the Fabric pattern pieces because I wasn’t using foam cups. Then I altered the front frame, and the cups to fit my shape.

After doing that, I was looking through the pattern for the instructions for sewing fabric only. I found them on page four – there are only four pages of instruction.

Imagine my surprise when I read this:Hello? What’s this? Remember? Remember what? I didn’t read this anywhere!

So I go back to the beginning, and I read all the beginning instructions again. Nothing.

I read it again. I’m still not seeing anything.

All I could think was I’ve spent all this time tracing the pattern, altering the pattern, and cutting it out only for it to be the wrong size?

Well, it is there. It’s in the first paragraph… which I didn’t read.I saw, ‘Thank you…’, and skipped right past that paragraph to get to work.

I’ve highlighted it now so I won’t be able to miss that again. I may mark on the Fabric pattern pieces too so there’s no way I can overlook this vital bit of information again.

As a result of my oversight, my Ruby is a little small for me. All the adjustments I made worked out perfectly though. And this being sheer cup lining, it does have a little more stretch than duoplex. It almost fits. However, I will need that next size up.

I’m off to alter the next cup size…

Happy creating!

Angie

~ Michelle ~ 4 Comments

Have you heard of B,Wear? They’re a bra-making/lingerie supply company in Sweden. I love how in our day and age we can shop globally.

I’ve ordered a few things from B,Wear in the past. So when they came out with a gorgeous pattern, I didn’t hesitate to order it.

Angie

Here’s the Angie pattern. I’ve seen a few of these sewn up and they’re lovely!I was excited to try such a beautiful new pattern.

Testing, Testing

The first thing I did was to make a tester cup. I made it and had it sewn into my tester band. The cup seemed a bit big. However, I hadn’t added my elastics yet. Then I’d read a few comments in a Facebook group, and had second thoughts about my size. I made another set of tester cups – this time one cup size smaller.

Isn’t this a lovely shape? It reminds me of a sea shell.I even tried making the cup size in Swedish tracing paper just to see if it was close. Just in case, I sewed my bra with wash-away thread.

My First Angie

This isn’t finished as neatly as I’d normally finish a bra – there’s no top-stitching to be found  – yet, it still looks quite pretty.   Let me tell you there is lift happening with this lovely pattern. I do need to go back to that first cup size though. I’ll try it with elastics this time.

That’s the great thing about using the wash-away thread – I can use everything but the cups to use again after a quick soak. The thread will dissolve, and I’ll have all usable parts and elastics once they dry. I also have the cups sewn from the first tester bra, so I’ll be ready to go again quickly.

A Closer Look

Here’s the front.Do you see all those vertical seams? Vertical seams really lift. The cup has a lovely round shape as well.

I’ve used my custom bridge on this, and thinned the band. I’ve overlapped my wires at the top of the bridge too. I just need a little more cup than this size offered.

Here’s the side view.I really like the shape of the cup, and especially at the side. This fit me quite well, which is encouraging. I usually need to take the underarm in, and I won’t need to on this pattern.

    And the back. The back has a downward slant to the pattern, which is great for me. It reminds me of some of those high-end bras with the downward hike to the band.I’m very impressed with my first attempt at Angie, and only wish I’d gone with my first cup size choice.

Second Attempt

I’m already working on my second Angie. Again, because I don’t know if this will fit perfectly, I’m going to use wash-away thread to sew the cups into the frame, and sew on the elastics. It’s so much nicer to not to have to unpick everything.

Time Commitments

I should be back blogging on a regular basis again. All those commitments that were taking up my time are more than half done. I still have some, but not four days a week like I’ve had for the past six weeks. At this point, I’m happily sewing and writing again, and hope to continue.

Happy creating!

Ingrid

~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

Recently, Beverly Johnson put out a call for testers for a new pattern. Well, at the time, I had two new patterns I wanted to try. You’ll see one next week – the Angie pattern. I already had that cut out even, but… I really wanted to test the new Pin-up Girls pattern! So I sent in my submission.

Ingrid

Here’s Beverly’s new Pin-up Girls pattern. It was just released yesterday. Ingrid is a non-wired bra pattern, with three front-closing options, as well as a comfort band option.

The pattern is a little bit different from previous Pin-up Girls patterns in how you measure for this bra. For this one, you measure your Bottom Cup Depth (BCD) for your cup size. Then you measure your rib cage for your band measurement. So if your BCD is 4-inches, you cut out a 4 cup size. If your rib cage is 34-inches, then you cut out a 34 band. It’s easy once you know your BCD.

If you’re not sure about the sizing, there’s also a handy chart showing some cup size equivalents for the different BCDs.

Testing the Pattern

I had everything cut out and was starting to sew. I had the cups together, but something didn’t look right. It was time to stop and figure out where I went wrong. It turned out I’d sewn one of the pieces on the wrong way, so check everything when you’re sewing this.

I was glad I’d only sewn the cups. I decided to start over with new cups rather than rip all the stitches out.  However, before I cut out those new cups, I took some time to double-check. This led me to do some labeling on the pattern pieces, and add some notes to the instructions. Now I was ready to start over.

The second time it went much more quickly, and came together much more easily. I did have all that previous experience, and my notes and labels to help me.

Here’s my Ingrid.I really like this bra. I’m rather impressed with the support it gives for not having a wire.

As soon as I was done sewing Ingrid, I put her on. I wore her for the remainder of the day. As well as supportive, it was also very comfortable.

As I was walking around, thinking the bra was rather supportive, I tried jumping up and down a bit to see just how supportive it was. Okay, I won’t say nothing moved, but I was impressed with the support once again.

Do you see that weird part at the center front where it goes up? That’s my attempt to make a bit of a Gothic Arch. Well, it might fit more like one, but it doesn’t look so great here. That’s something I can work on.

Here’s the side view.

And the back. I did find the band a little big, so ended up taking the band in and re-attaching the straps.I looked for a grey hook and eye set, but my stash seems to be very low on hooks and eyes. That’s something to stock up on.  So rather than grey on the back, it’s white. If you look closely, you’ll see I didn’t have 3/8″ upper band elastic in black or grey. Again, I had white on hand, so that’s what I used.

Repairs

I had the cups cut out the second time and was marking the cups – oh, the pattern has notches to match up. I liked that. So, when I was transferring all the markings, I realized one of the bottom cups I’d cut out had a flaw in the material. I didn’t have any more grey duoplex to cut another pair or even another cup.

After looking at where the flaw was, I decided I could do a repair. You can see it here at the top. I’ve already bonded a bit more duoplex to the back.Here’s the back of the repair. There’s double-sided interfacing fused between the duoplex and that little strip.Thankfully, the majority of this repair isn’t seen in the bra – it’s in the seam.

Here’s a close up of the cup showing the repaired flaw.

Pretty Features

There are some aspects of this pattern I really like. I like the new measuring system using BCD. I like the option for a non-wired bra. I like that there are more notches and markings used on the pattern pieces. I also like a couple of features on the front of the bra.

I like the fold-over-elastic trim along the front edge. I think it looks sleek and modern. And the neckline shape is lovely as well. It reminds me of a sweetheart neckline.I also like the power net inserts at the front. I think it looks unique.

I’m wondering what changes I’d need to make to change this into a sleep bra. Hmm. Beverly?

Beverly has two great posts on Ingrid. Introducing Ingrid, and How to Sew Ingrid. Both are great posts, but that second one, How to Sew Ingrid would have helped me the first sew through.

Happy creating!

Making Time for Miss Maggie

~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

I have been using my Oh Canada Miss Maggie handbag since I made it last year. Here it is when it was new.It’s had a lot of use, and it’s still looking good! Below is how it looks after daily use for a year. The only real wear I’m seeing on it is on the handle where I used maple leaf fabric. It’s looking less bright now. The photo on the left is when the bag was new. A year later on the right.It doesn’t even look that bad.

 I love the shape of the Miss Maggie handbag. So after debating other patterns I have, I’ve chosen to make this pattern again.

Materials

I’ve wanted to try working with leather. I love the durability of leather, but I do have to say, my cotton handbag has endured very well. It’s also the lightest handbag I can remember using. I was surprised when I started using it just how light it was. I may miss that using leather this time.

However, as I said, I wanted to try working with leather. I had purchased some last year, so decided to pull it out and cut into it.I got this at Peggy Sue Also, on Etsy.  It’s lovely. So far, working with leather is really nice. It’s so soft and pliable. We’ll see if I still think working with it is nice once I’m sewing multiple layers of it.

I didn’t have any fabric with the exact same fuchsia color in my stash for the lining, so I decided to use a fun fabric I had.I think this lining fabric will be adorable. I found this on Etsy as well.

A Leather Miss Maggie

I had my Miss Maggie all cut out, and then the corset challenge for May happened. But it waited patiently for me.This turned out quite nicely. The only real problem I had was doing the top stitching at the end. My machine kept skipping stitches, and I had to keep going back over it to fix it.My machine was fine with two layers, and even three, but it decided four layers of leather was just too much.

Inside the bag I’ve added a zipper pocket.     And a slip pocket.Aren’t all those bras adorable?

I also added a tassel and used Long John Strap anchors. After taking these photos, I did go over t hose skipped stitches again. It’s not the best, but it all works. I’ll find a better solution for the next leather bag I make.As well as the tassel, I used swivel hooks to attach my straps to the anchors. Adding just that little bit extra length to the straps makes this a shoulder bag for me.

I also added a lovely Handmade logo to the front of my bag.All the hardware for this bag is from Emmaline Bags.I love this bag, and my first attempt to make a leather bag turned out great! I will definitely be making another one – but I’ll tune up my Singer Featherweight to do the top stitching on that  next one.

Happy creating!

Bra-Makers Challenge – May

~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

The Bra-makers Challenge for May is Shape up for Summer. The Challenge includes  shapewear, waist cinchers, bodyshapers and corsets.

Options

I decided to look at my Craftsy classes to see what I could use to help me make something new.  Beverly Johnson has a shapewear class: Sewing Shapewear Smooth Silhouettes. This class also includes a pattern for shapewear, which is a bonus. Alison Smith has Sewing Corsets: Essential Techniques (no pattern included). And Linda Sparks has Custom Corsets: Bones, Casings & Busks (again, no pattern included).I started off thinking I’d make shapewear. I was interested in making the Slimming Shorts that are covered in the class. But as I was watching the class, I decided it was too close to the pants I’d just made for the April Challenge. I didn’t want to make another pair of pants right away.

I decided I was going to make a corset. I’ve never made a corset, so this will be completely new to me. And it was a bit intimidating too.

A Brief Class Comparison

The two Craftsy classes on corsets might look similar at first glance, but Alison’s class is really the entry-level class. It’s an Intermediate skill level class, and covers the basics of making a corset. This class is also the older class format Craftsy offers – longer class lessons, and more than six lessons.

Linda’s class is more of a custom class for once you’re familiar with the basics. Her class is an Advanced skill level, and specializes in the bones and bone casings primarily. It also covers the busks. This class is the newer class format with lessons lasting about 20 minutes, and only having six lessons.

Seeing as this will be my first corset, I’m following along with Alison’s class.

Pattern

I’m using the Pin-up Girls Freedom Corset for my pattern.

Making Progress

The corset is quite easy to cut out, and to sew together. I did pause and think about the eyelets for a bit, but then just braced myself and punched holes in my fabric. Once I had the holes in, the rest was easy. There’s just something about putting holes in a brand new garment!

The denim and eyelets were a gift from Marsha. Marsha also gave me some advice as she’s made corsets before.

One option for the corset’s front closure is to add a zipper. For that I needed to add a facing to the front of the corset. I had this adorable bra material in my stash and decided it would be perfect for the facing.I’ll be the only one who will ever see if, but it is adorable. I had pulled this material out recently to use to line a handbag. I’ll share more on that a little later.

I found a great rainbow zipper, and it was on sale. I wanted a little bling with the zipper, so really couldn’t resist it.

  My Finished Corset

I’m both pleased with my finished corset, and disappointed. Here it is:

I used bias binding tape I purchased to make the boning casings. The fuchsia  coordinates with the colors in the zipper.

I do think this is adorable. My disappointment comes with some good news. Since I measured for this, I’ve lost close to 10 pounds. The corset is too big for me now. I wasn’t expecting that, but overall, it’s good news.

Here’s the side view. There’s more channeling on the side and back than on the front.  The back shows how lose it is in I’ve had to pull these laces completely closed – and it’s still loose on me. There is supposed to be a two-inch gap at the back. I don’t have a gap at all.

During the sewing, I did try it on. However, it was a few more weeks in May from that first trying on until I finished sewing it.

If this had fit a little better, I would swap out these white laces for fuchsia ribbon.

Overall, I’m thrilled with my challenge entry. This is my first-ever corset, and they’re not as scary as I thought they’d be. I’m sure I’ll make another one, and now that I’d seen they’re not nearly as hard as I thought they’d be, I may try to make a full corset for my next one.

Happy creating!

Drafting in Steps

~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

My attempts at drafting my own bra haven’t been 100% to my satisfaction. My hubby says I want perfection. He’s not wrong. I’d settle for snuggled up beside perfection.

 Drafting First Steps

 I decided to go back to the Bra-makers Manuals and go over some of the steps in there for checking fit. The first thing to look at is the frame.

I decided I’d start over with my frame. The frame was fine, but I wanted to add some elements from the classes I took at Central Sewing, as well as some other design elements. This was a perfect time to re-do my frame.

Years ago, I cloned a Prima Donna Deauville bra I had, so I took some elements from that too. I gave my frame a wider cradle. I also gave the band a downward hike. It still has the lower bridge, and lower underarm.  Here’s my drafted cradle and the tester frame. This was pretty good.

One change I made. Do you see how little material there is there in the cradle to attach the cup? That 1/4-inch might be fine when making a bra, but it didn’t seem like much for the tester. I added another 1/4-inch. I also added a little more room under the arm.

For my tester frames, I use bits and scraps of whatever I have leftover from previous makes. Left over bits of elastic are especially great for a project like this.

Take Two

 The second new frame I made.This one is good too. And it will be much easier to use with the added material in the cradle.

I also gave myself a clear visual by sewing a seam line where the cup would meet the cradle. That’s the ivory stitching you can see in the above photo, and the one below.

I took a photo to show the difference between when the wire is in, and before it’s in the frame.That’s quite a difference the wire makes.

How Does It Fit?

  I’m happy to say this frame fits perfectly. My next endeavor will be to work on cups adjusted for my Omega shape.

Here’s the frame on my new display. It fits better on me.Everything is exactly where it is supposed to be. The bridge is right up where it needs to be, not pushed down, not coming away from the chest wall. The wires are just right too.

That’s the first stage of fitting a bra. Once the frame is correct, it’s time to test the cups.

Next Steps

After making a few adjustments to my pattern, I sewed up a pair of cups. I incorporated that adorable S-curve for the power bar.

I mentioned I’d sewn a seam in the cradle to follow. (I did this because I’d added that extra 1/4-inch.) I also sewed a 1/4-inch running stitch along the bottom of the cup. When it was time to sew the cups into the cradle, I just matched the two lines of stitching I’d done. So easy!How is it fitting? In all honesty, this probably would have been fine if I’d made it into a bra. It fit better than any RTW bra I’ve had. But I figured why not go for the brass ring. Seeing as this was still only a tester, I still made a couple of changes to my pattern.

I thought the cup might be a smidge small, so I clipped into the cross cup seam. Yes. I could add 1/8-inch there, so I did. I know an 1/8-inch isn’t a big deal, and like I said, if this had been a finished bra, I would have been happy with it. Since it was still a tester, I improved my pattern. Another adjustment was deciding if I wanted to lower the upper cups to meet the bridge, or raise the bridge a bit. I pulled out the custom bridge I’d drafted a few years ago, and decided to incorporate that into the frame. That means the cups won’t need to be lowered any more than they are now. The bridge will come up 1/4-inch to meet them. I’ll have to overlap my wires, but I’ve done that before.  Once again, I’m going for that perfectly matched cradle and cup at the side seam, and once the upper band elastic is added to the underarm of the cup, I’m going to have it! Yes, I’m happy with how this is all coming together.

Following Up

One last comment on the frame – a number of posts ago when writing about Tester Frames, I mentioned how hard it was to sew the cup into the frame once the frame was completed. Well, I took the wire out and it’s not hard. It’s not hard at all. The wire was what made it so difficult. Leave the channeling open for the wire, slip that wire out. It makes a big difference.

Happy creating!