First Sloper from Patternmaking for Fashion Design

A sewing friend and I are getting together weekly to work on bodice slopers. She’d taken a class a few years ago, but her weight had changed a bit so she wanted to redo her sloper.

I had done the Suzy Furrer Bodice Sloper class on Craftsy, and it was wonderful. Like my friend my weight had changed since I’d taken that class too.

 So we’ve been getting together for the past month to work on slopers together.

She brough all her class notes, but something wasn’t working out for us, so I thought of the book I had sitting on my shelf.

I have the second edition of the wonderful book Patternmaking for Fashion Design. It’s a great book, but read some reviews before you purchase a newer  edition. I did. That’s why I purchased this edition.  This book helped us. It had a few steps included that her class notes didn’t have. So we were off and going.

This week we finished drafting the pattern, tracing it off, and cutting it out. I sewed mine up that evening. I had to cut into some quilting fabric I had because I didn’t have enough muslin fabric. So I have a very pretty sloper now.

This fits me loosely and I’m not sure if that’s correct or not. I know we did add seam allowances, so I’m thinking it’s correct. In the Suzy Furrer class we made a moulage and it was tight fitting. I’m actually so happy with how this fits, and how pretty it is. I’m almost thinking of adding sleeves and buttons to the front to make it an actual blouse.     Ah, but the back… Here it doesn’t look so pretty. I guess a sloper it will stay.

Overall, I’m very happy with how this sloper turned out. I’m sure it can use a few tweaks but it’s very close to wearable as it is.  

This isn’t the only project I’ve been working on. I have something fun to share from Porcelynne in the coming weeks.

Happy creating!   

 

A Quick Update

I promised a quick update on this lovely cotton poplin bra. So here it is.

How did it come through the wash? Perfectly! It was a tad more wrinkly after washing than my duoplex or nylplex bras, but once it was dry I didn’t notice any wrinkles. Nor did I when I went to put it on.

And it’s so light, and of course being cotton it’s breathable. It’s lovely to wear. The cotton poplin gets my full approval. 

While I’m updating…

My two new beige bras were a smidge too big along the upper cup. I lost a couple of pounds and I guess it all came off there.

So my lovely new bras were bothering me with a small gape along the neckline.

Here’s what I did to fix that. I carefully cut along the side of the lace where it meets the power bar.

Then I overlapped the lace where the previous seam was.   There’s the smallest pucker there, but it will fit better. I can adjust my pattern for next time.

After I pinned it, I sewed that lace and sheer cup lining over the previous seam. 

Although I’m sure the zigzag stitch will hold everything, I did sew a straight stitch on the top at the edge so there was no gape where I’d cut the lace.

All that was left was to trim the threads. It was a great fix for a small problem.

Happy creating!

A Peach and Beige Updated Freja

I’ve been playing a little with my go-to patterns. I decided I wanted a tad more coverage, so I lengthened the bridge 1/3-inch. Being a rather pronounced Omega, I’m always taking away from the cups to get them to fit in, so adding a little back to the length where it fits into the cradle actually helps.

So here’s my latest Freja in a gorgeous peach lace you can find at Bwear. 

I used some beige duoplex and power net I had in my stash to compliment this lace. I think it’s very pretty together.

Here’s the lace on it’s own so you can see just how pretty it is.   Stretch lace in light orange with hearts - 19 cm

Those hearts… I wanted a little more lace on the bra, so I added some to the side of the bra’s frame. Just a little added color there, and a pop of prettiness.

You all know me by now. Lace = love. 

And the back of the bra.   I’m still pinning the back to get everything to lay nice and flat.

So how is that little added length along the cradle working? Well, it’s not perfect. It’s a little longer than the wire now, but I’m making it work. I’m just sharing that extra 1/3-inch between the top of the bridge and the underarm. 

Until next week, Happy Creating!

A Basic White with Lace

Making any bra with lace makes it not so basic. Don’t you agree? However, this bra is all white, so basic seemed like a good title.

This isn’t so basic.

For this pattern I was playing with working on my pattern and adjusting for the Omega shape.

For this bra, I used the bottom of the pattern pieces that actually fit into the cradle. Then adjusted larger for my actual cup size.

It was a fun experiment. But did it work. No it didn’t. I need all the fullness of the cup size I’m in.

But as I said, I did enjoy it. I’ve wondered about this for a long time – if it would produce a neater fit and look.    It definitely produced a neater look and fit. However, I really need the fullness throughout the bra cup.

So as pretty as this is for a basic white bra with lace, it was ultimately a failed experiment.

It was still fun to try, and to learn why this way isn’t recommended.

   It’ll be back to basics after this – what I know works.

Happy creating!

The Alma Thong Pattern

Recently Bwear asked for testers for a new pattern. I’m always up for testing new patterns, especially lingerie patterns. So I said yes.

As soon as I heard about the pattern I asked Em if she would like me to test the pattern for her. Of course, she said yes. The Alma thong are a modern thong pattern. They look a lot like a hipster from the front.

I really like that the pattern offers two ways to finish the legs and waist: panty elastic or lace trim. I love finishing things with lace. I think they’re so much prettier this way.

  You can see here they are not hipsters from the side. Aren’t they cute little cheeky panties? 

The feedback from Em was they sit a little higher in the front – which is exactly how they were designed to sit. Em said she really liked that.

She also said the back was a bit thicker, which Em also liked.

After I had made them and she’d tried them on, she told me she wasn’t a huge thong fan, but she loved these and was taking them home. I would say they were a hit.

You can find the pattern here, and kits to make the pattern here. The pattern will be released tomorrow.

Happy creating!

A Nadine’s May Margareta

Just look at me go! Three weeks in a row. Hello!

This week I’m sharing another lovely bra kit I made into a pretty Margareta. 

You know, working out with my son not only changed the shape of my back, but my cups too. I’ve been working on getting things just the way I want again. And although things were fitting, they weren’t just what I wanted.

I think I’m one small change away from just what I want.

So, here’s the lovely kit I used for this bra.      That lace!

So here’s my Margareta. So, some of the changes I’ve made… I raised the bridge. Even though my wires don’t come all the way up to the top, this allows me to raise the upper cup up a bit and give me a little more coverage. Coverage that I need.

I’m thinking of adding some boning to the side of the bras as my wires don’t come all the way up at the side either. Thank you Omega shape. This bra kit was so lovely. I think the lace and lingerie satin go together perfectly. Doesn’t that go so well? It’s so pretty. And lastly, I didn’t like the looseness and bagginess on the display form. So I’ve pinned it here. You can still see the back well enough – but if you think this looks terrible, please let me know.

Until next week, happy creating!    

The Porcelynne Luna Robe

One of the projects I was working on earlier this year was the Porcelynne Luna Robe

Luna Pattern - image 1

It’s also available as a course and you get the pattern for free. 

For my first test I made a medium, but realized right away that for my comfort I wanted it to be looser. I think part of that is I’m very used to wearing knits. This robe is a woven pattern, but can be used for knits as well. I used this cotton voile fabric. Oh! I love the bright colors.

Here’s my Luna robe. 

I made a full-length robe. To me, nothing feels more luxurious than a full-length robe. Even though this is very light-weight, it will still feel wonderful.

It’s a lovely full wrap style. And it covers unlike some wrap tops or dress. This really covers and wraps. 

I couldn’t resist to make a hair scrunchie out of some of the extra fabric I had. That’s what’s sitting on the top of my dress form. 

The back has a lovely design to it. It’s not a rectangle pattern. There is style and design to this pattern, and honestly I love it!

Here is a closer view of the front. 

Here is a closer view of the back.

   This is really a lovely robe pattern. I actually think it’s the nicest robe pattern I’ve ever made.

I’m planning a matching nightgown, so stayed tuned.  

Happy creating!

A Midsummer Margareta

See! I’m really back.

This time I’m sharing a lovely pistachio bra kit called Midsummer. I used this kit to make a lovely Margareta bra.  

This kit is still available for you too. Oh I love this color! I was so happy when Bwear starting carrying pistachio. I’m still so happy I can still buy it in both findings and fabrics. I know I say this all the time, but I think it’s also safe to say we all have lace addictions in the bra-making world. So… isn’t this pretty? I love the lace and the color. I loved the lace so much I had to use some on the power bar as well. Just a little more lace to love.  And the back band. Just look at that power net. And matching hooks and eyes.    This kit came with silver rings & sliders, but B,wear has rings & sliders in pistachio as well. I think it’s my new favorite color.

That’s it for this week. Happy creating! 

A Wintery Angie’s Twin in Spring

Hello! I’m back with some things to share, and some things I still can’t share. I was busy testing a couple of patterns I can’t wait to share with you. I’ll be able to share those with you soon though.

This bra kit is a Wintery bra kit, but it was just so pretty I wanted to use it.

So, I’ll jump right back in. Isn’t this just the loveliest lace? Although it was a winter kit, I think it’s pretty all year long.     I’ll be happily sewing again for a bit now. And for me! There might be some more testing coming. But I need some pretty new bras. Or I want some new ones. The new ones always feel nicer to wear. One pretty surprise I had when I opened this kit was this lovely strap elastic. I thought this design added such a nice touch. You can see that pretty design all along the the back too.

The bra is fitting a bit looser on my display because I’ve been working out with my son for over a year now. And after having rather wasted muscles after an injury, I’m getting built back up. Strength is wonderful, even if it means going up a size in my band.

That’s all for this week, but I’ll be back next week again.

Happy creating!  

November-December Recap

Hello! I’m back.

I have to tell you, it seems my sewjo is on vacation. Or maybe on a winter break. But it’s not here. Still, I’ve tried to get a few things done. 

I cut out a lovely Flirt Skirt from some gorgeous crushed velvet.

 I was ready to sew but when I looked at my threat, I had no brown. So, a few days later I went to the store and got some brown serger thread.

I hope to get to my skirt and finish it this week.

Another project I finished was changing a nightgown into a camisole.

I bought this nightgown because I love animal print, but wanted it to be a camisole. I thought that was a pretty easy change, and it was. I added a pretty black lace to the edge and that was all it needed. Just look at this ruffle along the neckline. This was worth it. Of course I couldn’t throw out the precious fabric I’d cut off.

So, I made Em her November Watson. Oh, this fabric is so lovely and soft. She loves it.    

It’s just charming. I really do love the Watson pattern.

Another alteration was to a blouse I bought. When I tried it on, it was just too low. None of my camisoles looked just right behind it, so lace to the rescue.  I tried these two laces, and decided on the 2nd one. I think it’s perfect!    And lastly, Em and I went to a Grinch tree workshop. It was so fun.

This is something I’ve wanted to do for a few years now, and I just love it. We had such fun making ours.

Okay, that’s it for month. I’ll see you all again in January.

Happy creating, Merry Christmas, and Happy New Year!