Seamless Panties

~ Michelle

I don’t know how many of you watched The Great Bra Sewing Bee this August. I loved it! In fact, I’m going to make sure I have the whole year’s access next year.

There was one class I was watching, and I had to rewind the class. What did I just see? It was the Panty Drafting Based on Inspiration Images class with Angela Gough.

At one point in her class, she used a stretch adhesive tape on the edge of her panty. She ironed it, and folded it over and ironed it again! No seams! No sewing! 

What? I’ve never seen anything like that before.

I sent off a message to Bodil of B,Wear, and I asked her what this magical tape was. She said she was already looking for it because at the time the video was released it was only available at the Sewing Chest in the UK.

    Well, Bodil got some in and sent me a sample with an order. I couldn’t wait to try it.I pulled out one of my favorite panty patterns – Kwik Sew 2286.

I didn’t have enough for the whole panty. I actually didn’t have enough for the whole waistband. But that was okay. I had also purchased some HeatnBond Ultra to test. I used them both on these panties.I used the Fusible Iron-on elastic sample Bodil sent on the back of the panties and it bonded perfectly. I used the HeatnBond on the front, and it didn’t bond perfectly. I had to redo it because after handling the panties it was coming undone.

    After a second press with a hot iron, it seems to have bonded now.I’m very happy with my new seamless panties. I can’t wait to have more fun this way.

Happy creating!

Mother of the Groom Dress

~ Michelle ~ 4 Comments

My youngest son is getting married. Seeing as it’s a summer wedding, I wanted something a little more comfortable to wear, as in breathable.

I looked and looked for a dress, but I had the hardest time finding something I loved. A lot of what I saw looked too casual for a wedding. I think I ordered four different dresses and sent them all back.

I knew I wanted a blue dress. Their wedding colors for the groom are grey and blue. I thought it fitting to wear blue as I’m on the groom’s side. I loved the first dress, the one on the left, but you know how sometimes navy can be so dark it looks black? It looked black. As well, I was going to have to alter the sleeves. I didn’t want long sleeves.

The second dress was nice enough, but it wasn’t quite as new as I was expecting. Someone else had worn it and returned it. I opened the package and I could smell it before I took it out of the plastic it was wrapped in. That was disgusting. I sent them both back.

My next plan was to make something. I bought the most gorgeous material from Spoonflower, however because of time constraints I didn’t order a swatch. If you ever plan to order from them, and I highly recommend them, do yourself and them a favor and order a swatch first. Unfortunately, the beautiful navy showing on the website was not the same color as I received.When I paired it with the navy I had, it looked more purple than blue.I was back to square zero, and still needed to find or make a dress. It was the beginning of August by this point.

A friend suggested the Gala Gown by P4P. I looked at it and thought it was lovely. Great. I had my pattern. I ordered some cotton Lycra, and in a few days I was on my way.

Here’s my Gala Gown. I made the full-length option, with pockets. My husband thinks it’s wonderful. He loves the color and the style. I love the full skirt. And did I mention pockets? My husband thought I was going to carry around car keys and such in my pockets! He thought pockets were a terrible idea. No, I’m more thinking of a tissue or two.

Happy creating!

BRAugust 2021

~ Michelle ~ 3 Comments

Have you been following BRAugust on Instagram? I have. I’ve been participating too. It’s great fun, and so inspirational!

Tailor Made Shop is hosting it. Each day there is a different theme. It’s been really fun to look back and see what I’ve made over the years that fits with the themes.Here are a few of my makes.

 

I haven’t been doing any bra-making, as much as I want to do just that. Instead, I’ve been sewing a dress to wear to a family wedding that happening this month.This is the P4P Gala Gown. It’s a lovely dress to sew, and I only have that one more panel for the front to sew on. Once the dress is done, I can have some more fun playing with lace and making bras.

Happy creating! 

Another Josey

~ Michelle

Well. I really liked my newest Josey Bra. So much so that I cut out another one right away and sewed it up.

Yes, I really like it. The only thing I needed to change on that first Josey was I actually made the band too long. I don’t even know how I did that seeing I used my tester frame.

So I fixed the length of the band. On this one I also decided to use the cradle and frame that comes with the Josey pattern. I made sure it was matching my cradle, and the corrected length of my band before I cut it out.

   I used the same lace as from my Summery bra. I love the delicate floral pattern in it. Seeing as it had bright pink, I decided to match it with some fuchsia I had in my stash. My hubby told me he doesn’t like the combo.

Look at those pretty colors in there. Pink, purple, a light orange. I think they’re lovely, and match with the fuchsia well.

I think it’s a very pretty summery bra.

I also added some lace to the center front. This pattern has a split cradle, so I took advantage of that feature to easily add the lace.My only disappointment at all is the little embroidered flowers aren’t showing on the bridge. One of them is barely showing. Just peeking out from the bottom edge.

I’m sure there will be yet another Josey very soon, and some matching panties too.

Happy creating!

Lace Ideas

~ Michelle ~ 4 Comments

I recently saw the most lovely creative use for scraps of lace. It was on one of the forums on Facebook.

An artist, Hot Cross Floss, is using bits of lace and incorporating it in her embroidery. Her artwork is gorgeous. She was asking in one of the groups for scraps of lace.Isn’t this lovely?

She also shared this one.Her work is really lovely. You can see more on her IG page.

I know this next part seems totally unrelated to the above work, but stick with me.

This past week I was looking for a collage quilt from Laura Heine. She’d done a European village scene. When I did find it, I realized it was Spanish Row Houses, and it was only available for a retreat.Despite this not being available now, it got me looking at her patterns.  I found this one on Etsy. This is Pretty In Pink. I’m in love with this. I am going to do this! I love the leopard print band on the bra, and the floral power bars. Oh, there is so much I love about this.

Then I started to think what a great way to use some lace scraps. I could incorporate those into the pattern. I think it would still look great done in quilting cotton, but perhaps a lace power bar, or lace straps. I could take my favorite bra pattern and incorporate the design into the collage – give it different seams, or a lace upper cup. 

What fun ideas have you thought to use bits of lace? I’d love to hear.

Happy creating!

Josey Bra Take Two

~ Michelle ~ 6 Comments

My first attempt with the Josey Bra came up short. Well, a bit short across the cup anyway. But overall, I knew I was close.

I was thinking about doing a hack, but part way through drafting it, I decided I’d be better off to just do a quick test of the next cup size up.

So that’s what I did.I grabbed some scraps again, and did a quick tester cup. It’s looking good.

Next I measured the bottom of the cup against the cradle. I had to find 2 1/2-inches to remove from the bottom of the cup so the cup will fit into my cradle.

Once that was done, I had a working pattern. It was time to break out a bra kit and try this pattern. 

   If you’ve followed my blog for any amount of time, I’m sure you can imagine the self-talk that was going on while I was making this bra. After all the tries and trials I’ve had, I kept telling myself to not get excited. That is probably wasn’t going to fit. That this was just going to get me one step closer, and it was fine.

Well, it fits! It fits perfectly! No alterations. No fitting issues. No adjustments. This pattern fits as is, with only the Omega adjustments to fit it into my cradle.The bridge is the correct width for me, the cups fit, and the bridge also tacks all the way to the top of the bridge. I hated to take this off for photos.

I decided to make fabric straps to go with the bra, and I do like them. I may change that up for my next one so they don’t have the lace trim on the inside. Just for a different look.

As well, mine is made of duoplex, as I don’t have a lot of micro duoplex in my stash. I did order some so I can try it. 

I was also so excited I immediately dug into my stash looking for some panty fabric to make a set. Oh, these are adorable!

Here’s my whole set.

I’m a happy bra-maker today, and I’m already planning my next one. However, I also have a dress to make for a family wedding. I’ll have to fit in some time for me too and make a few more pretty Josey bras.

Happy creating!         

First attempt at the Josey Bra Pattern

~ Michelle

There are a few lovely bra patterns out there that I’ve yet to try. However, before I tried them, I had to figure out all the changes to my size over the last few years.

All the work on the fitting band, and getting the right wire, I was ready to try one of those pretty new-to-me patterns. I chose the Josey pattern for my first new pattern to try.Version 2 of the Josey pattern was released last week, so it was perfect timing for me to try the newer version too. It has quite a few adjustments done to the pattern.

The first thing I did was to sew up a test cup. I know my band and wires are good now. It was time to dig into my stash and find some bits that were left over from other projects and test the cup.

I found the perfect amount of duoplex, and some lace for my test cup.It’s very pretty, but it’s a tad too small across the cup.Just as the inside of the cup doesn’t cover all of the foam cup underneath it, it doesn’t reach all the way across to where it would meet my bridge.

If you remember how I was going to hack my frame from two different sizes, I’m thinking of doing the same thing with the Josey pattern.

Above is a frame that fits a 38 wire (pencil), and a  40 wire (pink pencil). The heavy dotted line is where the two sizes blend together.

Seeing as I need to make Omega adjustments, I don’t really want to go with a bigger bottom cup, so don’t want a bigger size for that. However, I do need more room about mid-way and at the top of the cup. A larger size there might just be perfect.

I’ll play with it a little this week and let you know.

Happy creating!

Root Cast

~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

Since my last post, I have to say that I have worn my new bra a few times, and it’s wearable. It’s not pinching all the time. I think the Flexi-wires are helping with that.

After my last post when I planned to work on my draft some more, things went in a different direction. I went to my sewing room planning to draft up a hybrid cradle. Then walked out again, It was time to do a root cast. No more getting close, or thinking I had the correct shape. Out came the masking tape. I was making a root cast.

I taped piece after piece after piece on myself. I wanted it at least four layers thick so when I removed it, it didn’t distort at all when pulled away from my skin. I got it. Now to test this against all the wires I have.

Here it is with the Orange 38 wire. This is the wire I thought was closest to my shape, and it’s not totally off. However, it’s not exactly the same either.This was so odd because when I traced my root with a wire and compared it to the different wire shapes, this was the closest in size and shape. Below is the photo I took of my root trace over the Orange wires.However, after wearing this wire, I can tell you it’s not the right wire for me.

Next up was the 38 XL wire from BMS. This is the wire I’ve been told more than once is the correct wire for me. However, like the Orange wire, I knew from wearing this wire that it wasn’t correct.   I didn’t have to see this wire-root comparison to know this wire wasn’t the right size or shape. I knew this wire pinched on the sides. Again, this is not the right wire for me.

A few months back when I was working on my wire trace, I bent a BMS 38 XL wire out to my correct size.So, of course I needed to see how this wire would compare to my root trace. This is about as good as it gets. My only hesitation with this is I’ve heard the wires aren’t always as stable (can break) with washing and wearing after they’ve been bent. I had to bend it a fair amount. So, although this is an option, I still had one other wire to try.

Here’s the Flexi-wire.Hmm. About the same as the bent wire above, but I don’t have to bend anything. It will flex and take my shape.

I did try the 38 Flexi-wire too, but it’s just a bit too short for me, but as you can see, the 40 Flexi-wire is the better fit.If you’re interested in reading more about bending wires, and what can happen, Jennifer (Porcelynne) mentions that in her recent blog post.  

Now to take that root trace, and draft a cradle for exactly my shape.

Happy creating!

Wire Woes Still

~ Michelle

I’m still having issues with my wires! Still. I can’t even begin to tell you how frustrating this is. As I’m sitting here thinking about it, I remember my mom telling me she couldn’t wear a bra with wires – they always hurt her. I guess I know what I inherited from mom.

I’ll never forget when I did my moulage (back in 2014), I took one look and thought that’s my mom’s body! Yes, I’m really understanding why my mom couldn’t wear underwired bras.

However, I’m not ready to give up yet. 

 My pretty new summery bra hurts. It doesn’t hurt all over. Just in one little place. You all know what an uncomfortable bra feels like – it only needs to hurt in one place.

It feels like the wires are pinching me at the top of the channeling.Right there where the pink arrow is pointing.

I took out the Orange 38 wires. I don’t think the are wide enough at the top. They’re close in shape, but not quite a match for me.

I didn’t close the channeling on this bra so I could test the wires. I tried the Orange wires for a day and knew they were not going to work. Now I’m wearing Flexi-wires, but my bra is still pinching there. Because Flexi-wires have so much flex, I’m thinking it’s the cradle now. I made this cradle to fit a 38 Orange wire.

Thinking about this, I think I need to alter my cradle. A cradle that fits a 38 wire is the right size for the bottom of my cradle, but I think I need a cradle that fits a 40 wire for the top.

When I was first looking at wires with my root trace, I could see the 40 wire fit the top of my trace. 

Here’s what I’m thinking. I’ll make a copy of two cradles – one that fits a 38 wire and one that fits a 40 wire. Then I’ll use the bottom of the 38-sized cradle and the top of the 40-sized one, smoothing out the line between the two pattern sizes.  Above is a cradle that fits a 38 wire drawn in pencil. Then the pink is the cradle that fits a 40 wire. The darker dotted line is the blending of the two.

I’m off to draft a new cradle.

Happy creating!

A Pretty Summery Bra

~ Michelle

Oh, some very good news. Draft number four fit so well I couldn’t resist making a new bra. For the most part, my cups were fine. I’d done a lot of work on those. The wires and the bottom of the bridge were what needed the most improvement. So, now I had a well-fitting band, with the correct wire shape, I had to make a new bra.

I looked in my stash, and this lovely delicate lace was calling my name.Oh, I love this lace. It’s so pretty.

My next decision was what to use to finish the bra? I decided to try the lingerie satin B,Wear sells. I had ordered some, but hadn’t tried it yet. I think I fell in love with it as soon as I touched it. It’s so soft!

This lingerie satin does have a bit of stretch, so I wasn’t sure how my bra was going to fit, but I am not disappointed.This is the BMS Ruby pattern, adjusted for an Omega shape.

This fits perfectly – except I forgot to adjust the top of the bridge to make it lower. This bridge is for using elastic along the upper edge, so the bridge and the wires aren’t the same length. However, that’s a very small complaint!You can see here where the wires aren’t coming to the top of the bridge. There’s maybe 2 cm, or better yet 1.5 cm and a touch of wiggle room for the wires. It’s a very small adjustment after some of the others I’ve had to make.

You can also see in the above photo, I had some wrinkling with my elastic under the cup there. I had this problem on my other tester band too. I’m wondering if I have too much of a curved shape there making it just too hard for the elastic to fit to those curves.

Here’s the side view of the bra.Oh, I’m so happy with this. I used a trick I learned in one of my classes with Jeannette to help my large cup fit into my smaller band – I stretched the frame on the outside, and ‘eased’ the cup in. It works so well.

Lastly the back view. I’m so thrilled to have finally found my correct sized wire, and figured out just how to fix my band as well. I have my next bra kit all picked out, and I’m going to sew some more bras!This is another lingerie satin kit from B,Wear.

I do like a power bar, so I’m thinking for my next bra I’ll make a BMS Shelley.

Happy creating!