Porcelynne’s Eve Cups Redesigned

Hello. I’m sorry it’s been so long since I’ve posted. I had an odd after-affect from a cold. I had so much pain in my one hand, I could hardly do anything with it. It’s slowly improving, and I’m hoping to get back to normal soon.

I have many sewing plans so need my hand 100%! So, what have I been doing? I’ve been testing the re-designed Eve bra. 

Eve Classic Bra Bundled Pattern - image 1

Jennifer and I agreed the regular Eve cups did not fit me. So I tried the Vertical cups. They are part of the Eve Classic Bra pattern – which is now available. It has the regular cup, Vertical cups, and Demi cups.

Jennifer and I agreed that we were close, but think the Demi cups will be the best fit for me.

I’ve cut out my first pair and they were too small. I have the next size all sewn up and will be putting those into my fitting band right away.

Eve Classic Bra Cup

Let me tell you a few things that impressed me with the Eve cups.

I was using a 38 wire, but to help with side coverage, we made my cradle a 42 wire length. What amazed me over and over was how the cup fit into this cradle WITH NO ALTERATIONS!!!

Honestly, this was amazing to me. Stunning in fact. After the many years of so many alterations to get a cup to fit in a smaller cradle, this really did amaze me.

Jennifer has designed all these cups to fit into different cradles. For example, a D cup that would fit a 38 wire cradle, and a D cup that fits a 40 wire cradle, and one that fits a 42 wire cradle, and so on. The same for the E cup, and the F cup, and so on up and down the cup size range. All designed for each cup to fit different sizes of wires/cradles. All with no extra work on your part.

Here take a look:    Do you see where the cup joins the side seam? There isn’t a dart in the cup. There are no gatherings along the wire line. No, this cup is simply designed to fit into this size cradle.

That might not seem like a big deal when most patterns’ cups fit into the cradle – but that doesn’t work when you are an Omega! No, that means adjustments. But not with this pattern.

If you’re wondering, I could have used a cup that fit into a 38 cradle too – but I really don’t get enough side coverage and support with that.  

I don’t know of another bra-maker/designer who has done this for each cup size! There are hundreds of cups. I promised to tell you something else about the side of this bra. Do you see where that red line is? That’s where my wire ends. Normally, if the side of the bra was raised up this much higher than the wire, the side seam would be flopping over. Not here.

The reason is Jennifer had me sew a strip of channeling as close as I could beside the wire channeling, Then insert a piece of boning there. It worked perfectly. It gave me a little more side coverage which I need, and I can’t feel it there.

I am honestly very impressed with the redesigned Eve cup pattern. If you have problems fitting your bra cups into your frame like me, or even if you want an incredibly designed cup, really, give these a try.

Happy creating!

P.S. I’ll be back soon.

Reviewing Porcelynne’s Bra Making and Fitting Course

Hello! I’m back. I haven’t been doing a lot of sewing but I have done some. Mostly what I’ve been sewing is a fitting band and cups. I’ve been reviewing Porcelynne’s Bra Making and Fitting Course.

If you go there right away you’ll just get a message that the course is being tested. The course is due to be re-released the beginning of June, so I’ll let you know before that. 

As part of the review,  I went through all of the steps in the course. I followed it as if I was a beginner bra maker. I have to be honest, there were many things about the course that really impressed me. But I’m going to make you wait to hear about them all.

For now, I’ll just show you my final fitting band with cups.This is actually two different sized cups. I was testing to see which I preferred.

This next photo is showing something I’ve never heard before. And if you ask me I think it’s brilliant. I’m not going to say more – you have to wait until my next blog post on the course. You tell me what you think is happening here.Lastly, for this post anyway, the back.Have you made a fitting band? I’m already planning to test some other cups in this. I’m also planning to go through Porcelynne’s Eve Sloper Creation course to change the shape of these cups. The volume is perfect – and I cant’ wait to share more on that with you. 

Happy creating!

Still Here

Hello! I know it’s been over a month since I posted. I’ve been sick twice in that time, and at present am still getting over the second cold of the season.

I don’t have anything to show you just now, but I promise I will be sewing and  working on things when I’m feeling well enough.

Happy creating!  

 

The Smallest Bralette and Panty

It’s been a busy few months for me. I had overcommitted to too many things, but things are slowing down a bit and I’m catching up.

One of the things I was catching up on was sewing a new pair of panties for the store display. I wanted to sew something that reflected my own style and what I would teach more. For me, that meant cotton Lycra rather than power net for a main fabric for panties.This is a lovely heathered cotton Lycra from BMS. I’ve also used the Veronica Panty Basics pattern from there.

It felt really good to get these done as I’ve been promising them for more than a month.

Central Sewing has also had a few requests for a Bralette class, so there was no better time to sew up a matching bralette.I used the Poppy pattern from House Morrighan. I made the size 6 but graded the cup to a B cup instead of the C/D cup in the pattern.

Here’s the sweet little set together.So cute! One of my favorite things about this set is the little hints of color coming through the bralette. The reason for this is the tulle I used to line it. It has stretch in one direction so worked for this. It’s this multicolored tulle from B,Wear.Isn’t this lovely? I’ve used it a few times now, and been so happy with it every time. Because it has stretch, I’ve used it to cover foam cups.

With the bralette, there’s just bits of this lovely color coming through.

Above there are hints of pink, blue, and yellow.

Along another part of the hem is yellow, pink and blue. I really love how this turned out with these bits of color peeking through.

Here is the cute little set on the display when you come into the store. The date for the bralette, and the panty class will be with the display soon.

That really is an adorable little set, and I’m pretty sure the smallest set I’ve made so far.

Happy creating!

A New Shop and a Shop Re-Opening

I’ve had a few people contact me asking me where to buy the Poppy pattern, and other House Morrighan patterns. I reached out to the owner to find out.

I knew there had been changes to Etsy, and I knew as a result a few shops are no longer on there. I don’t know if the changes are the reason House Morrighan was no longer on Etsy, but I knew they weren’t there. As well,  I didn’t know where her patterns could be purchased now.

Then I read some good news on her Instagram. She’s setting up her new website. More good news is you can purchase her patterns now by sending her a message on IG.

That’s great news! She’s still going to be selling her patterns – and I think they are wonderful patterns. In fact, I’m going to be teaching the Poppy bralette as a class soon.I’ll share more on this bralette soon.

So that’s the shop that’s re-opening, but there’s more exciting news. There’s a new shop in town. Well, not exactly in my town and maybe not in yours either. However, this new shop won’t be far from me. It’s a new shop in Canada!

Margie B Fine Lingerie Supplies

  I’m excited for this shop to open because it will be great for when I want to order one finding kit, or something else small. This way shipping won’t cost very much.

She’s going to be carrying all my favorite supplies too: bra kits with Duoplex, power net, lace, elastics, findings. She’s even carrying special kits from B, Wear. It’s very exciting!

If you’re wondering about some of her kits from B,Wear, well, you can double check but currently they’re exclusive to Margie B.  This kit for example. Lollipop. It’s darling and Margie B is the only one carrying it right now. Johanna is another lovely kit that is currently exclusive to Margie B.

If you are looking for duo kits and finding kits and don’t see them, she has them! Just send her a message. Both of these wonderful shops are still getting their websites finished.

Margie B is owned by a woman who’s taken all the professional classes that I’ve taken. In fact, we were in the same classes! I’m so excited for my colleague as she begins this new adventure and moves forward with her dream. And there’s more coming, but I can’t share that just yet.

One of the items I’m most excited about though is Margie B is going to carry flexible wires! And they’re really nice looking flexible wires too. Right now, no one in Canada sells flexi wires.

Here’s let me show you a pair of the wires I’m using now, and a pair of the new style of Flexi wires. Mine are on the right.They both just look like wires, right? Well, the ones on the right look a bit thinner. Let’s take a closer look. In the photo above are the wires I’ve been using. They work wonderfully. I have no problem with them, except there are no shops in Canada that carry these wires. In the past, I’ve had to order my wires from the US. So I had to deal with the exchange rate, expensive shipping, and then I was usually hit with duty when it arrived. Those wires would end up costing me more than twice what I was expecting to pay. It wasn’t fun.

Here are the new Flexi wires.Ooh, right away I think these look prettier. A more even shape throughout the wire.

Here’s one last close up.This photo is showing the ends that inserted into the channeling. The new wire is smoother, more of a continuous piece, and that will make that job of inserting them much easier. There were pliers involved in the past when inserting flexi wires.

One warning though, they are just a bit longer than the US-style of flexi wires. They are the same length as a standard long wire of the same size. So if you’ve been using the US-style of flexi wire, you’ll need to adjust your pattern. Ask me how I know.

So you can really see I’m excited about a new shop opening here in Canada, and one of my favorite pattern shops reopening. All the best to both House Morrighan, and  Margie B!

Happy creating!

A Late Valentine’s Josey Milady

I’m really loving my Josey Milady (named after my best-fitting bra pattern and Prima Donna’s lovely Milady bra). In fact, I find myself reaching for these ones that I’ve made more than any others in the bra drawer. I think I need more of them.

This one is inspired by the most gorgeous lace, and my recent Brenda Brief panties.  I really like these panties. So really wanted to make something to coordinate.

My newest Josey Milady.This gorgeous lace comes from B,Wear.

I love the red and black together.   Oh, I love this combination.

  A lot of my inspiration comes from RTW bras, and this one is no exception. I love the Fantasie Leona bra. Here’s the inspiration.

And here’s my take on it.I hope you all have wonderful inspirations that you bring to life.

Happy creating!

Making a Foam Lined Bra

I had been asked a few questions on how to make a foam lined bra. Here’s what I’ve been doing.

The first thing I do is take my pattern pieces and mark where the seam allowances are. Most of mine are where the designer put them, but all my bras are adjusted for an Omega shape. And yes, you can do this if you have an Omega shape.

You’ll have to ignore the orange markings on the bottom of this first photo if you’re following along to do this yourself. You DO NOT want to cut that part off. The rest of the seam allowances you do cut off.

Here’s another example. You can see on the bottom here I’m not cutting off the seam allowance on the bottom of the pattern. You will need that – that is the part that is sewn into the cup.

Once you have cut off the seam allowances on your pattern, you have a foam cup pattern pieces that fit you and will line up perfectly with your lace cupped bra.

Sew the foam cups together with a wide tight zig-zag stitch. Once you’ve sewn your foam cups together cover the upper edge of the foam with fold over elastic.You’ll want to sew both the foam and lace cups into the cradle at the same time.

The underarm elastic will fold over the foam, so it only gets one pass of sewing (the second one) when sewing on the elastics there. 

Your foam cup is fully attached to the cup. It is attached at the bridge, fully under the cup, and at the underarm. It does not move. The foam cup is loose under the lace at the top.    As well, you can change the shape of the upper edge of the foam, and have some fun with the foam not being exactly the same as the cup. The foam on the cup above follows the curve of the lace cup.

On this bra below, instead of following the curve of the outer cup, I gave the foam more of an up-swirl towards the underarm.I do my best to line up the vertical seams on the foam with the seams on the cup.

I hope this blog post has answered all the questions you’ve had, but if you have others please let me know.

Happy creating!

Brenda Briefs View D

I made another pair of the new Porcelynne pattern – the Brenda Brief. The pattern has four styles, and loving lace as I do, I made the other style with lace.

I have a lovely black and red lace on my cutting table so thought I’d make something that would coordinate with that.

I think these are darling! I really do love the lace on the side on this pattern. So pretty.

One thing I did differently on these than the last pair is I didn’t use FOE.

Let’s take a closer look, shall we?

  This is clear to see, I used a fabric band for the waist instead of FOE. This is quite easy to see.

This is harder to see (although I overexposed it) I also used fabric bands instead of FOE at the leg opening. I wanted something just a little softer, and thought I’d experiment.

I think it turned out wonderfully. It looks the same as FOE.

Isn’t that a lovely side view?

Lastly, there’s the back view.

Another very pretty view of that lace.

These look like briefs on my model here, but they are true hipsters. They aren’t a difficult sew, but the joining of the FOE and lace is a touch tricky. Thankfully, there’s a sew-along video coming to show you how to do that.

This is another lovely pattern from Porcelynne.

Happy creating!

Porcelynne’s Brenda Brief Pattern

I recently made the new Brenda Brief panties from Porcelynne. I have to admit, I was taken with the lace at the side of the leg. It’s such a pretty feature. It can also be color blocked, but it was the lace that won me over.  Brenda Brief Pattern - image 1 I knew exactly what I wanted to make with this pattern too. I wanted something to match my new Prima Donna inspired Josey bra.So, here is my newest make – the Brenda Brief pattern. Oh, well you know how I feel about these. I say the same thing over and over. I love them! I really love this lace! You can find it at B,Wear.

I love this side view. I love the lace at the side.  Isn’t that just lovely? What a great way to make a matching set by using the same lace at the leg opening. Or do a little scrap busting by using the color blocking option.

I really like this pattern. It comes in four styles. Two briefs (view A & B) which sit higher, and two lower styles (view C & D) which are close to a hipster. I plan to make the hipsters next!

Happy creating!

The Prettiest Josey Bra

You’ve heard me say this many times before, but I loved this lace when I saw it. Do you all have the same problem? I can’t be the only one to fall in love over and over with laces.

But. I saw this lace and thought it was so beautiful. You can find it at B,Wear. The link is in the photo as well.It’s described as Light Beige with Pink Flowers. The above photo is on a pink background. Below it is on a darker background.Oh, it’s so delicate and so pretty.

I did something I’ve never done before. The same day I received the lace in the mail, I had the bra cut out and began to sew it up.I had some copper power net and I found it went perfectly with the leaf outlines in the lace.

Here’s my lovely new Josey bra. Because this is a stretch lace, I’ve lined the frame and the cups with an ivory sheer cup lining.Here you can just see a bit of the copper power net.Above is a bit more of a side view. Oh, I love this! The lace is so delicate and so pretty. And the back view. I really love copper power net and duoplex too. I wish I could find the perfect cotton Lycra to match copper though. Has anyone found that? Let me know.

One of these days I am going to try another bra pattern. (I do have one cut out to try. Really.) However, this time it was too hard to resist this lace. I used my TNT Josey pattern so I could sew this up right away.

Happy creating!