Silk Freja

After making those sumptuous silk tap pants, I looked at the scraps of silk that were left over. With some careful placement, I had just enough to make a bra.This lovely silk came from Lilypa‘s shop.

Here’s my silk and ivory bra. I used the Pin-Up Girls Freja again – you’ll be seeing a few more of them before I try another pattern.This bra is so soft and well, silky. It feels wonderful on!Here’s a close up of the bridge showing that careful placement I mentioned. I didn’t have enough material to put the bridge on the fold, which is what most patterns have us do. So for this, I added a 1/4″ seam allowance, and cut two pieces. Then I simply sewed the two sides together.

Here are the side views. The silk shows wrinkles more on my display than duoplex or lingerie satin does. Still, it’s lovely and fun.

Lastly, I used ivory findings and power net. There are different shades of green in the silk, and I had nothing that was going to go with that. Ivory was the most neutral choice.Have you ever made a silk bra? Or any silk lingerie? Oh, the feel of it! Luxury.

Here’s the bra and slip together. Lovely if I do say so myself. I don’t know how often I’ll be wearing these together. When I do, I’ll love it.

Happy creating!

Faux Silk Tap Pants

I really loved the Tap Pants I made, but wanted to make a couple of changes. I wanted them really flowy, and wanted to take the waist in a bit more.

So I had some faux silk fabric I’d bought on sale and thought it would be perfect for testing some changes to the pattern. It was.These are very flowy and I don’t think I’ll need to make any other changes to the pattern. And, I can finally throw out that terribly worn slip. The one big difference between the culotte slip I had and this is the old RTW one didn’t have a front or back seam. 

However, after looking at what was available in RTW, I wasn’t finding anything I was happy with. Most of what is out there now are compressive style shorts. I wanted something much more comfortable than that.

These fit the bill perfectly.

Happy creating!

Creative Bug Tap Pants

I had learned about Creative Bug a few years ago, but really didn’t take advantage of the classes on there. Madalynne has a few classes on there. Gretchen Hirsch also has one – the Tap Pants class.Aren’t these just darling?

I had a very old culotte slip I wanted to replace. I thought this class would be the perfect jumping off place to replace that sad well-worn slip.

For my slip, I decided that I would use some special fabric I had. Lilypa had brought in some gorgeous stretch silk. I felt confident that I would get a well fitting slip because the class take you through drafting your pattern from your measurements.   Isn’t that lovely? When I first saw it, I just had to have some. And I thought this project would be perfect for this material. I love them! One thing I didn’t realize when I bought the material is the map isn’t all ‘right side up’. The continents are both right side up, and upside down. So if you see this and fall in love, be aware of this.

If you’re making a smaller garment, you may be able to get everything right side up. Otherwise, this is just the design. I made a mistake that was quite upsetting. I couldn’t believe I did it really. One of the class suggestions was to use pinking shears to keep the edges from fraying. Well, I love my rotary pinking blade and use it often to trim seams on panties. I just love the look.

So I happily grabbed my pinking rotary cutter and trimmed all my seams with it. Then. Somehow. I didn’t feel I had more fabric under one of my seams. I cut through the back of the slip! There’s nothing to be done about it now.

I’ve found a supplier for tricot with rave reviews. I plan to make a few more of these but can’t make them all out of silk.

Happy creating!

Freja in Ivory

I was so happy with getting such a good fit with the Freja pattern, I made another one right away. Making this pattern is really inspiring me to clone and alter my favorite RTW Fantasie Vivenne. It’s one of my projects for during the Bee.

Here are the two of bras together, the pattern and the RTW bra.They are quite similar.

Here’s mine again from the side.

And here’s the back view.This lovely lace comes from B,Wear.

It’s a lovely left and right sided lace.Working with these lovely flowers made me remember something I’d been told. Always place your flowers so they are climbing up or growing up. If they’re growing downwards, your cups will look sad. And you don’t want sad looking cups.So I was careful when placing my lace to make sure I had happy looking cups and my flowers were all growing upwards.

Happy creating!

Pink Clovers

To go along with my new pink Freja bra, I also made a pair of pink Clover Boybriefs.

I really do still love this pattern. This is one I make again and again. This one, then my TNT Kwik Sew 2286, and then the B,Wear’s Sigrid.I heard House Morrighan is working on getting a new website set up. But I don’t think it’s up yet. If you’re loving this pattern and want it for yourself she said you can email her on IG to get the pattern.I’m not sure if it’s the Barbie effect, but I’m really loving the pink right now. Normally I’m more a fan of fuchsia, but I’m really enjoying this set.

Although these look like a full brief, they are more a hipster on me than on my display.   Here’s the bra and panty together.I’m happy to have another full set to enjoy.

This second set of panties was sewn while watching the beginning of the Bra Sewing Bee. I have a little space set up with my computer, a cutting board, and my sewing machine.I took this photo while enjoying Nikki’s class on Fitting As We Age. I’m loving the Bee so far this year. I have a few more sewing/adjusting patterns projects planned for during the Bee too.

Happy creating!

Pretty Pink Panel Panties

When I decided to make a new bra, I had no idea I was jumping on the Barbie trend, but that seems to be exactly what I did. I made a pink matching set.

My new Pink Freja bra needed some lovely pink panties to match. For the first pair I chose the Rad Patterns Panel PantiesPanel Undies PDF Sewing Pattern Underwear Pattern Panty image 1 I’ve always thought these were so adorable.

For mine, I used a kit from BMS that I had.These were such cute kits.

My panel isn’t as forward as the original pattern as I used my favorite TNT pattern as my template. Kwik Sew 2286 and simply made a panel on the front for it. I might have to tweak it if I want those side seams more forward. I had used the pattern in the past.And I thought they were adorable. But when I looked for the pattern, I found the more recent version. 

Here’s the side view.You can see the seam is sitting just forward. With the seam sitting forward just a bit like that, it makes the lace trim match up better for joining it.

You can see on this older make the lace trim joins at a bit of a point. With the seam forward, it’s just a little neater.

And the back view. I have some solid pink cotton Lycra for a second pair of panties. I’m just not sure which pattern I want to make yet.

Here’s the full set together.     Some good news – my hand is healing and improving. So I’ll be back soon with more makes.

Happy creating!

A Perfect Freja Bra

I’ve just had the best couple of days sewing. My niece wanted to learn to sew a bra but we live in different provinces. So we did video sewing. We’re already talking about what and when we’re going to sew next.

My niece sewed up a Classic pattern from BMS. I wasn’t interested in sewing the same pattern though. What I sewed up actually came from Bodil of B,Wear. She had suggested I try the Freja pattern from BMS. She thought it would be a good fit for me.

FREJA Bra PATTERN  A Pin Up Girls Original Pattern image 1I had tried the pattern once before and the cups were too small for me. I hadn’t gone back to the pattern. I decided it was time to try it again.

Here’s the first Freja I made.Oh, I loved the lace and the copper duoplex together. I was sad it didn’t fit perfectly. 

One of the reasons I wanted to re-try the Freja is one of my favorite RTW bras was the Fantasie Vivienne bra.  I loved the shaping of this bra, and the Freja is very close to the same shaping.

This time I went up a size in BCD and the cups are perfect!  Here’s my new Freja.I had this lovely pink kit from BMS so decided to use it for my second attempt of the Freja. It’s lovely!I could use the tip from Porcelynne on the side  here – to add another strip of channeling beside the wire channeling and add boning there. However, when I was wearing this it wasn’t bothering me that the wire is a little lower at the side.I’m really happy with how the Freja fits. Yes, there’s a little playing around I can do to help my Omega shape fit even better, but for an attempt I wasn’t sure would turn out better than the first time, I’m very happy.Next I’m thinking of making a pair of panties to match. 

It was wonderful to sew again. Wearing the splint, I’m slowly gaining movement in my thumb again. Thankfully, I can sew while wearing it.

Happy creating!

Porcelynne’s Eve Demi Cup Bra

Well, I did it. I finished my Eve demi cup bra, and I have to tell you it is incredibly comfortable.

It took a lot of work to find my perfect size and fit. I think I made at least 4 fitting bands to get it just right, then I must have made 6 (or possibly more) cups sizes and styles.

I was not getting that perfect fit with the Eve until we tried the demi cup. Than we found the cup style that fits me best.This lovely kit came from Porcelynne’s shop.

I can’t tell how wonderful it was to sew again. I just had to do it in bits. My hand is recovering, but it’s recovering slowly. Still. I couldn’t just not sew. I have a three different splints I’ve been wearing, and they’ve made it possible for me to do everything I need to do AND sew.

I have more sewing plans for the summer – maybe too many for how slowly I’m sewing – but I can’t wait to work on more projects.  Here’s the back of the bra. It has a nice curved U shape to the straps. Despite all the testing, this was a bit big for me. I think it’s mostly due to the fabric. I’d been using nylplex from Bodil’s shop for my test bras. This time I used the kit from Jennifer’s shop.   

One last mention, which I did mention before. This little strip of channeling beside the actual channeling is holding a piece of boning. Before I started to recommend this to everyone, I wanted to wear this and know it was comfortable. Honestly. I couldn’t feel it at all.

It’s a great tip for all the Omegas out there to get a better fit and get the coverage they need with smaller wires. It works!

Happy creating and I hope to be back soon with more makes.

Porcelynne’s Complete Bra Making Course

Porcelynne has released their Complete Bra Making Course today. This is the course I’ve been reviewing for the past few months, and using to sew up the newly redesigned Eve pattern.

The Eve pattern is included with the course as well. Complete Bra Making Course with Porcelynne - image 1

Here’s what’s included.

Learn all about bra making fabrics, wires, findings, how to measure, fit and sew a full custom fit bra. This course contains 30 video lessons with 13 hours of content. Jennifer walks you from the process of understanding materials and to sewing a lace foam cup bra. Follow her through the fitting process on a very difficult person to fit – herself.

The course is available in a few options: the full course or as 6 different parts. The course is also 25% off until the end of the month! This is the first course that we have integrated into our new website (the rest are on their way) and it has a few new features. All videos are closed captioned and can be downloaded individually to view off-line.

I really have to say I’m impressed with this course, and the Eve pattern. While it’s on sale, now is the time to try it!

I mentioned recently that I’m having trouble with my hand. That hasn’t improved. In fact, it’s worse. So for now, I won’t be doing very much sewing – I can’t even sew up the last alteration I have on my Eve pattern. We were so close to fitting it perfectly – really. One alteration to go and I just can’t physically sew right now.

I’m hoping with rest my had will recover and I’ll be back to sewing soon.

Happy creating!

Porcelynne’s Eve Cups Redesigned

Hello. I’m sorry it’s been so long since I’ve posted. I had an odd after-affect from a cold. I had so much pain in my one hand, I could hardly do anything with it. It’s slowly improving, and I’m hoping to get back to normal soon.

I have many sewing plans so need my hand 100%! So, what have I been doing? I’ve been testing the re-designed Eve bra. 

Eve Classic Bra Bundled Pattern - image 1

Jennifer and I agreed the regular Eve cups did not fit me. So I tried the Vertical cups. They are part of the Eve Classic Bra pattern – which is now available. It has the regular cup, Vertical cups, and Demi cups.

Jennifer and I agreed that we were close, but think the Demi cups will be the best fit for me.

I’ve cut out my first pair and they were too small. I have the next size all sewn up and will be putting those into my fitting band right away.

Eve Classic Bra Cup

Let me tell you a few things that impressed me with the Eve cups.

I was using a 38 wire, but to help with side coverage, we made my cradle a 42 wire length. What amazed me over and over was how the cup fit into this cradle WITH NO ALTERATIONS!!!

Honestly, this was amazing to me. Stunning in fact. After the many years of so many alterations to get a cup to fit in a smaller cradle, this really did amaze me.

Jennifer has designed all these cups to fit into different cradles. For example, a D cup that would fit a 38 wire cradle, and a D cup that fits a 40 wire cradle, and one that fits a 42 wire cradle, and so on. The same for the E cup, and the F cup, and so on up and down the cup size range. All designed for each cup to fit different sizes of wires/cradles. All with no extra work on your part.

Here take a look:    Do you see where the cup joins the side seam? There isn’t a dart in the cup. There are no gatherings along the wire line. No, this cup is simply designed to fit into this size cradle.

That might not seem like a big deal when most patterns’ cups fit into the cradle – but that doesn’t work when you are an Omega! No, that means adjustments. But not with this pattern.

If you’re wondering, I could have used a cup that fit into a 38 cradle too – but I really don’t get enough side coverage and support with that.  

I don’t know of another bra-maker/designer who has done this for each cup size! There are hundreds of cups. I promised to tell you something else about the side of this bra. Do you see where that red line is? That’s where my wire ends. Normally, if the side of the bra was raised up this much higher than the wire, the side seam would be flopping over. Not here.

The reason is Jennifer had me sew a strip of channeling as close as I could beside the wire channeling, Then insert a piece of boning there. It worked perfectly. It gave me a little more side coverage which I need, and I can’t feel it there.

I am honestly very impressed with the redesigned Eve cup pattern. If you have problems fitting your bra cups into your frame like me, or even if you want an incredibly designed cup, really, give these a try.

Happy creating!

P.S. I’ll be back soon.