One More Try

November 18, 2014December 27, 2017 ~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

I don’t know about anyone else out there, but having to wear a bra every day, I really am motivated to get the fit right. So, I decided I needed one more try. And that one more try was just the trick.

Using the half-size right in between the size I’d been working with for so long, and the next size up that was too big was brilliant! I woke up at 4:30 that morning and came downstairs to work on my bra pattern. And I have to say, after 2 years of trying, I was not really as enthused as I was say a year and half ago. I’ve had too many bras that weren’t what I wanted. I’m still wearing them, but perfection felt beyond my reach.

All that changed this week. I’ve found my size! Oh what relief. I encourage you, if you are still struggling, don’t give up.

So, let me take you back to my process.

I had what I thought was going to be my size. But I felt rather defeated thinking of the alterations I would have to make to a new cup because I knew the wire and cup size still didn’t match. The good news was this cup size is only two sizes larger than the wire size I need, and one size smaller than what I’d been using.

That got me thinking again; I knew from reading the Bra Makers Manuals that we can go up or down one wire size without changing the cradle. Okay, I was going to go up one cradle size. I traced out a 40 cradle instead of a 38. This now meant the cup I needed, which corresponds to a 42 wire was only one size away. Oh, the relief of that realization! I cut everything out and sewed it up as is – no alterations.

100_2659

Here’s the Pin Up Girls Classic pattern, as is, except I split the lower cup. There are a couple of pins in there trying to (unsuccessfully) smooth things out and get rid of the wrinkles on Catherine. This is my best fit yet. There are only a couple of minor fitting issues at this point. If you’re dealing with an Omega shape, I strongly recommend doing this – go up one cradle size. It will really help as there will be fewer alterations to do, or the ones you still do need to do will be less drastic.

100_2660

This will be one alteration I make to the cup. It gaps a little at the underarm. A tuck in the pattern there will eliminate that for future bras.

And the second alteration I will make to the pattern is the bridge. I made this one bra without any alterations to the bridge – so I didn’t use my custom bridge and it’s just too wide (I knew that) and too high. But just how much too high was it? That led to my second brain wave this week. I took my custom bridge at the full bridge height and drew 1/2″ line down from the top. Then another 1/4″ down and a second 1/4″ down.

Here’s my custom bridge with the first 1/2″ cut off. And that’s the exact amount I need to shorten it.

100_2655

Here’s a closer up picture showing the markings I made on the top of the bridge:

100_2658

I’d already snipped off the first 1/2″, so now I know how much I need to lower my bridge.

There were a couple of other things I’d said in the past I’d share, so I took pictures as I was sewing my bra. Oh, and a side note here, I signed up for Beverly Johnson’s Bra class on Craftsy and I had her explaining the steps as I was sewing. That was such fun. It was almost like having her right here with me.

100_2639

You can see here the bottom band elastic coming up under where the channeling will be sewn on. This just fits, but if it didn’t, here’s how you fix that.

100_2640

Fold the channeling over the elastic so you can see how much you’ll need to trim away. See that pink dotted line? If I needed to trim, that would be my cutting line.

100_2641

And here with the channeling out of the way again. Follow the curve of the channeling when drawing your dotted line (better than I did here) and you’ll have your exact cutting line.

I’m off to make those changes to my pattern and cut out another bra.

Happy creating!

A Marathon of Muslins

September 9, 2014December 27, 2017 ~ Michelle ~ 4 Comments

I was so excited to finally have a bra that fit with the bridge going all the way back that I made a whole bunch of bra muslins to try on over that bra. I went through almost all of my patterns – there are a few that I likely won’t ever make – and I sewed up muslins for test fittings.

This first bra muslin I made was a brand new pattern just released. It was Orange Lingerie’s new pattern, the Marlborough pattern.

Marlborough

You can see here the fit looks like it will be really close and I won’t have to do very much in the way of alterations. The Marlborough doesn’t actually list my size in the size range, but I know all about finding the right size by the wire size. So using my ever-so-used BMM chart, I found the correct cup size to fit into my band.

Great! I marked the muslin where I’d need to reduce it a bit at the bottom where it overlaps the seam allowance on the actual bra, and pinned it to the pattern for when I’m ready to tackle making this bra.

Shelley

Next it was the Pin-Up Girls Shelley pattern. Again, the depth looks good, but it’s not perfect. I marked where the seam lines fell under the muslin, and I marked these right on the muslin. It’s now pinned to the pattern and ready for the alteration stage as well.

After Shelley, I did the Pin-Up Girls classic pattern.

PUG Classic

You can see I also wrote the pattern name and size on the muslin.

After I finished with my Pin-Up Girls, it was time to try a few of Merckwaerdigh’s patterns. This is where I had to do a re-do.

BHST2 B too small

I started with BHST2, but you can see the cup is too small in this size for me. It just won’t meet all those seam lines under it. I quickly traced off the next size up and that one was fine.

BHST2 B

This one gives me all the depth I need, and I’ll alter the pattern to fit my shape. Again, I marked on the muslin what changes I’ll have to make and pinned it to the pattern.

For some reason I didn’t trace of the CUPL-16 pattern I have. I must admit I was running out of steam by this point.

I did trace off my Sewy Rebecca. I wasn’t sure about the size, and the size I chose was actually too big. So my next muslin of this will be smaller.

Sewy R 1

You can see here the cup is clearly too big.

I was really tired after all this, but have a great place to tackle each of these bras now – one at a time.

Happy creating!

A New Fantasie in the Works

August 15, 2014December 27, 2017 ~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

I get emails from a few online bra stores. They’re full of bras, so full of design ideas. Does anyone else do that?

One came from HerRoom recently with a video attached. The video is part of a fitting series, and was talking about how the ‘center panel’ should fit. The center panel is what I’m familiar with as the bridge. I watched to see what they’d say because I’ve had so many issues with bridge-fitting. You can watch the video here. A wonderful little extra right under the video is a transcript of the video. Here’s the part that got my attention:

“The center panel should rest firmly against your sternum. If it doesn’t, your bra cups are not deep enough so you need to go up a cup size. If your center panel is significantly pulling away from your sternum, you probably need to go up several cup sizes and down a band size.”

I knew a lot of the information in the video, including the information in the above quote, but it did give me reason to re-think my bra-making bridge issues. I had followed the instructions in the Bra Makers Manuals and ‘Frankensteined’ my bras that didn’t go all the way back to the chest wall. I did this more than once, and one of those times was with the teacher here. And even doing that. I did not get the fit I was looking for. After what felt like too many attempts, I’d given up. It was suggested I just use a lower bridge and that does work. But I’m not really one to leave things alone or give up. I wanted to find a solution to this.

So, with that very persistent personality trait, and the video stirring up questions in my mind, I thought about the RTW bras I have that fit with the bridge going all the way back to the chest wall. The Prima Donna bras I have do not do that. Neither the Deauville bra, nor the Duchess bra achieve that aspect of fit, but the Deauville is somewhat better. However, because they didn’t fit to begin with, I didn’t even look at either of those to help me in drafting a new pattern.

The one RTW bra I have that does achieve this fit level is the Fantasie Vivienne.

non plunge

This picture is from the internet as, at the time of this writing, I had not made a Fantasie clone yet. The cups on this RTW fit perfectly AND the bridge does go all the way back. But the bridge does not fit properly – it’s too wide. The wire is not the correct size either. Although it’s the closest I’ve ever found in a RTW bra. It’s even got Vertical wires. Those wires are one size too big. And too big is still too big.

I was thinking, if the bridge not going all the way back is a cup-depth problem… and these cups fit perfectly… then I can use the cups. And I’ll fix the bridge and the wire size. I’d want to fix the bridge, even if the other bridge fit better because I have a custom bridge that also adjusts for a flat spot. I’d also want to use the cradle I made for the Vertical wires I use.

Out came the pattern drafting paper, and I started to re-draw my custom bridge and cradle, starting with my wires. This method is described in the Bra Makers Manual.

100_2341

Here’s the first steps of that new bridge. You can see how it is the same shape as the Vertical wire. I felt like I was off to a great start here. I know the cups fit, so at this point no changes to them (at least not yet). And with the cups fitting, the depth should be spot on.

I now have a cradle and bridge drawn, and the bridge had the custom aspects added, and I have cups that fit. I’m feeling pretty confident at this point.

Now to address how some of the changes I’m making affect the cloned pattern I already have. I’m using a different wire and it’s not the same height as the wires that came in the RTW Fantasie.

100_2342

You can see the difference in the wires here. I have to say, although the RTW wires are a bit sturdier, they are a LOT less pretty to use.

I measured the difference between my new custom bridge and the cloned one, and took that amount out of the upper cup as well. It was only a 1/4-inch, so not a huge amount, but that excess still has to go somewhere. The next adjustments to make will be to the lower cup to help it fit into a smaller cradle.

As this is getting quite long, I’m going to sign off here, and next week I’ll have the conclusion of alterations and hopefully a perfectly fitting bra, with a full bridge that goes all the way back to the chest wall!

Happy Creating!

Will It Ever Stop Snowing? And Other Greats!

April 1, 2014December 27, 2017 ~ Michelle

I saw a cute video by Rick Mercer, a Canadian comedian, which depicts how I feel so well:

Yes, that is the sad state many Canadians are in right now. We’re just hoping for warmer weather, and … well, it’s snowing right now. Sigh. So much for the calendar saying Spring.

I’ll happily stay indoors today and work on my pattern, right? Sigh, the pattern. Okay, I’m going to focus on the positives and deal with the challenges next.

I got the short wires from Bra Makers Supply. I’m was hoping for the same length on the side, and shorter at the front to accommodate the lower bridge. Great! But nope, those didn’t work the way I wanted them to – too short on the side. I think I still want the Vertical wires, I’ll follow Amy’s suggestions on her blog (Cloth Habit) for shortening them.

With newly shortened Vertical wires in hand, I got out my Bra Makers Manual and drew a new bridge & cradle for these new wires. Another great! But, I’m not done with this topic yet. More to follow…

Then I decided to make sure my custom bridge really was the best fit I could get. An article from Threads that talks about making a Duct Tape Sloper was my inspiration. I decided to follow the same principle and use multiple layers of tape to make a ‘sloper’ for my bridge. That worked well too. And then I checked it against the custom bridge I’d made. It is almost exactly the same as what I’d done when I followed the instructions in Norma’s book, Demystifying Bra Fitting and Construction. So I have my correct bridge shape. Great!

full bridge

Here’s my little tape sloper. I didn’t continue the sloper past the marker – that wasn’t the problem area, so I focused on the middle of the bridge. The rest of the wire was fitting fine. But that area…

Well, a picture is worth a thousand words, so here is the difference between my little tape sloper and the newly drafted cradle pattern. Yes, there is a problem.

cradle issue

Do you see that area at the front of the cradle where the bridge is? It’s nice and round. I don’t match. So, what to do about that?

I have asked that question before, and didn’t get an answer that was satisfactory. I was told by one person there was nothing to be done about that. But that’s an important very supportive area, and it does need to fit. So, I re-drew the cradle with the custom bridge in place of the bridge here.

Back to those shortened wires. Oh my! I will tell you, shortening them is not a problem. However, covering that rough edge is! I read Amy post, and decided to follow her suggestions for using Plasti-Dip. There was no variety of colors, in fact I had my choice of red or black. That was it.

So with red Plasti-Dip in hand, I came home and dipped my newly cut and filed wires. I let them dry overnight even. They looked great! And then came that magical moment when I went to insert them into the bra channel. I should have taken a picture… I inserted the newly rubberized end of the wire into the channel and pushed, and pushed and pushed. Then I did what I’m sure 99% of married women do when they can’t do something physically — I called my husband. ‘Honey can you help me?’ He pushed and pushed. And then looked at me and said that’s not going anywhere.

It seems Plasti-Dip is a rubber coating. Rubbery is not what I was expecting. I’ve been to every hardware store in 3 towns and no one has anything other than the rubber coating-type Plasti-Dip. Well, that didn’t work.

I have read about others using Goop, but I don’t think that is a preferred method. I bought some heat-shrink tubing and will try that. I’ve said this before, and it’s still true… I’m close.

Happy Creating!

A Lot of Jewelry, Not a Lot of Sewing… Yet

November 21, 2013July 16, 2016 ~ Michelle

Our new space is working out quite well. My DH and I are sharing a computer desk, and we’re actually sharing it. (smile) We both have laptops, so he gets his side, and I get my side. So far, so good.

My crafting desk looks a lot better than in the last picture I shared, but I’m not done setting up. I have a storage cabinet coming in a week or so, and after that things should be much neater. I’ll post a picture after that.

So, what have I been working on? Well, it seems mostly jewelry. However, I did pull out some bra patterns, but I need a big sign on my desk to remind myself not to try to make pattern adjustments after 11 p.m. at night. To be honest, it was closer to 1 in the morning by time I realized my brain really doesn’t want to do this type of thing – at that time of night!

But it’s bright and early in the morning right now, and definitely wintry outside, so this morning is a perfect time to work on some adjustments to my pattern.

I’m going to make adjustments to my Fantasie Vivienne clone. I really do like the overall fit to this bra. What I don’t like? The bridge is too wide for me. It’s about an inch wide at the top, and I’m not. So I’m going to adjust that. And the wire that’s in the bra is too short for the side panel. There’s more than a half-inch part that flops down when I’m wearing it. So I’m going to adjust that as well, and more than just the amount needed for the bra – the wires I have are not the same length as commercial wires. I’ll need to lower the bridge/underarm area over an inch just to make up for the difference in wires.

A few other modifications I think I’ll make are ones suggested in the Bra Makers Manual, like doubling the power net for the band to give more support. I did that in one of my first Shelley bras. This bra (below) has power net and Lycra and I love how the band feels on this – very firm and secure feeling.

Front View w Foam Cups

Here are a few things I’ve been making in the jewelry classes I’m instructing.

Pearl Turquoise Necklace 11.13.13

I love this necklace & earring set. I made the earrings first in my Introduction to Wire Wrapping class. They’re freshwater pearls and turquoise. I like the stone combination so much, I decided to make a necklace with the same stones the next day in my Introduction to Crimping class. These were from last week.

And I made this necklace as well – just last night. And will likely make a pair of earring to go with this one too.

Mate Onxy Necklace 11.20.13

I think this is so pretty. This is made with matte jasper and dragon blood stones.

This is getting a bit long, but one more quick note. I really loved working with felt recently, and signed up for the Fab Felt holiday class on Craftsy. I bought some cute holiday material yesterday for the poinsettia class on there. I’m sure I’ll have one done before I post again, so you can see what I’ve done.

Stay warm! Did I mention it was -23 C yesterday?

Happy creating!

A Tester, A New Pattern, and Duh!

April 10, 2013December 27, 2017 ~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

Do you ever do something, and then wonder, What was I thinking?’ Well, I was either over-thinking or not thinking at all!

Here’s the lovely bra I made:

Duh

You saw a bit of this last week. It’s lovely, the fit is pretty good. I’m still not quite getting the bridge back to the chest wall (Grrrr!), but it’s almost wearable.

Almost. Did you notice that. I did wear it and here’s what my problem was: the underwire was flipping up at the front under the bust and twisting along the bottom of the bra! What? This was a completely new one for me. I had no idea what wasn’t working. And it made it a bit uncomfortable.

So a call to Bra-Makers Supply and a question for Beverly. It kind of felt like deja vu – her answer was similar to one from a long time ago in my journey – something was either too big or too small. Last time it was the wires, this time the cradle.

And yes, duh! The cradle was too big. I have no idea what I had been thinking but I did not use a 38 cradle – used a 44 and folded it to take away some of the width. I eye-balled it, but clearly not well enough. There was an inch in there that needed to come out. It should have been so simple – use a 38 cradle and make it the same length as the 44.

So, one bra that is in the pile to take apart and redo. I don’t love fixing my mistakes, so I have a pile of them and they wait for me. That bra is now in the pile. I’ll pin a note to it so I don’t forget why it’s there.

So, this week, I made a tester for my friend. Thankfully, she is an easier fit than me. Her cup and wire size match. That makes it a LOT easier. However, I did up a 30 F for her, and the band is too big and cup too small. I do know her wire size, so I can figure out where to go from here for her.

One thing she commented on, that I haven’t loved either – she wanted more lift in the cup. I understand that – I need all the help I can get.

So, off to the drawing board again. I know from the Bra-Makers manuals that the straighter the upper cup, the more lift the cup has. Hmmmm. I thought about the patterns I have with a really straight upper cup. But none of them are ‘classic’ patterns.

I used what I knew from making my own Shelley pattern from the Designer Bras By YOU! CD, and did it backwards.

I used my Sewy Rebecca upper cup and put it together with the powerbar from the pattern.

With Power Bar

Then I re-drew it.

New Classic Upper Cup

I added the strap tab, and gave the top a nice smooth curve rather than the straight edge for lace. On this one (which is reversed, sorry) I also took in the under arm.

Here’s the tester I did with my new pattern:

Brown Tester

It’s almost there. I tried this one before I did any adjustments just to see how it would fit. I found out I did need to take in the underarm in both the upper and lower cups, take in a bit of the length at the wire line, and add a bit to the bridge depth. So, I’ve adjusted my pattern, and I’m off to cut out my new pattern.

I do have another pattern that has an ever straighter upper cup, so I may do this same technique with that pattern this week too.

Happy creating!

Basic Black and a New Love

March 18, 2013December 27, 2017 ~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

I have so many plans for what I want to sew. Is everyone like that? An ever-growing list of what you want to sew? Does anyone else ever get all those wants accomplished? My list just keeps growing.

So, what have I been up to? Well, I took my friend to a specialty bra store for a fitting. I wanted to see what the store would put her into. It was a very interesting experience. I could see the store didn’t properly fit her, and she could see the bra they put her in didn’t fit her. But the woman working in the store either could not or would not admit the bra didn’t fit her. The cups were too small and the band too big. Yet every bra they offered her was the same size, and they all fit the same way. I wondered if maybe they didn’t have anything that would really fit her. It did help me though, because I think she’s going to need a 32 F. However, she only wears non-underwired, so I may still have some challenges. I haven’t made an non-underwired bra yet.

When meeting my friend, I arrived at the store earlier than my friend, so just had to look around and then after looking I HAD to try on a few things. I’ve fallen in love again. This time with the Prima Donna Milady Padded Balcony bra. I thought this style was called a Balconette, but the tag says Balcony. Either way, it’s lovely, and I want to sew one!

Prima Donna Milady Padded Balcony Bra 36F

Isn’t that pretty? (I’m not posting an actual picture of the bra – just so I don’t get into any trouble with Prima Donna, just a drawing of it.)

It has a 3/4-high thin foam cup inside the lace cups – I put a pink line where the foam cup stops. You can see the foam cup doesn’t come to the top of the bra edge, but only 3/4s of the way up. A unique feature. The lace cups have a vertical seam with a small dart at the bridge. I didn’t look too closely at the straps, and was wishing I had my camera with me when I was in the store. I need to figure out how to make this one for me too, after I make the Amy Relf bra.

I have made a few things in the past week or so since my last post. I finished the lovely gold-filled Medical ID bracelet, and also a basic black bra.

For my basic black bra, I went back to the drawing board. I wanted to take my time and re-draft my pattern. So I used the Pin-Up Girls Classic Full Band pattern as my starting point.

I took it in at the underarms on both the upper & lower cup, I moved the straps over in the front and on the band, I made the bridge narrower, and I put a downward hike on the band. I also moved the apex over.

My first attempt – in a tester bra – was a bit too small in the cup. Still completely wearable, just the bridge doesn’t sit right back to the chest wall – it’s about 1 cm out. As well, the apex had been moved over a bit too much. So, off to the drawing board again.

But before I went back to the drawing board, I did something I haven’t wanted to do. Something mentioned in the Bra Makers Manuals – I cut open the cups at the seam line in the front to see how much I needed to add to the pattern. Oh, how I haven’t wanted to do that! I’m not even sure why, but it was very hard for me to do. However, I did and was able to get much better results from having done it.

I added to the pattern at the center front on both the upper and lower cups – that same amount from the slit, and that took care of the apex too. It’s a very good fit. I’m so glad I took some time to remember all the alterations I wanted to make. I am really happy with my back this time, and my strap placement.

Basic Black front

Here’s the front. Just as I said, a basic black. I needed a new basic one. All my other basic ones were over a year old, starting to show too much wear, and a bit too stretched out in the bands.

Basic Black back