I Tried a Custom Bridge Already

March 18, 2014December 27, 2017 ~ Michelle

I kept thinking about how to alter the bra pattern sitting on my desk so the bridge would fit and go right back to the chest wall. Last year I spoke with the staff at Bra Makers Supply, and they’d suggested I lower the bridge if it wasn’t going all the way back. That really helped. So that was one of the things I’d done on the custom bridge I made as well as a couple of other changes.

And some of the ideas I was thinking about to alter the bridge, like narrowing the top of the bridge but keeping it a normal width at the bottom, were the same alterations I’d done using Norma‘s book: Demystifying Bra Fitting And Construction. I had no desire to go back down that road again, trying to re-invent this, especially as all the changes I was thinking of were the same as before.

I decided to look at what I’d done last year when I made a custom bridge. I have a bag of bras I’ve made, and they are put into the bag when I’m not completely happy, or I deem them ‘unwearable’. It’s like the Bag of Bra Shame! I’ve kept them all so I can use parts like wires, rings & sliders , hooks & eyes again. So I dug out the bag, and pulled out the bra on which I’d done the custom bridge.

I didn’t even finish this completely. The channeling didn’t get sewn down. No little bows to cover up the seams at the straps. Poor little Ivory Shelley. When I made this, I was disappointed in not getting the fit just right (again), and I stuffed it into what seemed to be an ever-filling Bra Bag.

This morning I tried it on again, and there are a few minor adjustments to be made but it does fit pretty well. The bridge works just like it should. It goes all the way back. So I thought some more about what I didn’t like about this bra.

I decided to look at the wires. I originally had put in 38s, then 40s, (my original bra pattern changed shape a bit when I altered the bridge, and the original wires didn’t fit properly.) and although I’d been told I wasn’t likely a smaller wire size, I decided to try one. I had a couple of 38 Vertical wires, which correspond to a 36 wire. It worked out quite well that I hadn’t finished that channeling.

And… drum roll please. It fits! The wires aren’t too tight. I am amazed! In one little experiment, I may have taken care of all my fitting challenges I couldn’t figure out. I’ve had this little Ivory beauty on all day and it’s more comfortable than any of the $200 bras I own.

I am so excited! It’s drafting time again. Now with the bridge problem fixed and past adjustments to the patterns, I’m ready to make something that fits PERFECTLY!

Happy creating!

Another Shelley

February 21, 2013December 27, 2017 ~ Michelle

I’ve really gone back and forth on my Shelley pattern. After I got the official pattern in the mail, I had to open it and compare all the pieces to what I had done. I was very pleased the patterns pieces were mostly similar, but there were a couple of small differences, and I wanted to make a Shelley closer to the ‘real’ pattern.

I think the biggest treat was to have instructions. I was winging it at times, and other times referring to my Bra-makers Manual. Between the two, I did get a few made, but having instructions (great instructions!) really was nice.

That seam allowance! Well, I decided not to add it again. The lower cup really fits better without it. So, that really makes my fit a bit of a challenge and I doubt I’ll ever buy another bra knowing what I know now.

I’ve also been re-reading my Bra-makers Manual again. It’s good to read it again after making a few bras. I’m picking up things I missed or didn’t understand as fully the first time I went through the book. For one thing, I had posted not too long ago that Lycra and I were not going to be friends. Well, we’ve made up! A little tip in the manual and I was off to my stash of fabrics to pull out some Lycra I’d bought and then decided not to use.

Here’s my Shelley again, but in a lovely Lycra & Lace:

Front View w Foam Cups

I’m so very pleased with how this bra turned out. I love the combinations. I’m not sure I love using the foam cups to fill out the cups for pictures though. I can see little puckers on the cup that look like darts. There are no darts – just cups not filled out.

Back View

And the back. The straps are a little tiny bit closer to the middle on this. Not a big move, but a little one. Still more comfortable and I’m not feeling like straps are falling off my shoulders.

I’ve had some problems attaching my hooks & eyes. I don’t seem to have a sewing machine foot that will let me sew the hooks on easily. So what I did here was I used a straight stitch to attach one side of the hooks (the eyes are never the problem) and then folded it over and did a zigzag. I went on much easier and looks much smoother than some of the other bras I’ve done.

Side View w Foam Cups

And the side view. You can see the foam cup here. I’m not sure which I prefer – the foam cups or the black beanie forms. I did take a few pictures with the forms in too and was going to have a vote to see which looks better. Maybe next time.

I made this a little higher at the sides to fit a vertical wire. I showed the difference between a long wire and a vertical wire a few posts ago. I’ve been wearing the vertical wire all day and I’m not sure I love it. Thankfully, changing a wire isn’t the hardest thing to do! I may try a long wire and see if I prefer that. It may simply be I’ve never worn a wire that fits so closely before and I’m not used to it.

And I’m probably going to say this again and again, but I really am happy there are no ‘gathers’ along the bottom of the cup (I know they weren’t really gathers, but it almost looked like it!). Easing a larger cup into a smaller wire may be necessary, but I really didn’t like the look of it. This is much smoother and I really am very happy with the way it looks.

And lastly, I finally got a great fit under the arm. So many times, I would take in the underarm on the pattern, but it was still a bit too big. I took this in what seemed would be too much, but it’s perfect.

I have more Lycra in my stash, and am thinking we’re going to be good friends! And that perfect bra my husband is always saying I’m trying to make? This is the closest I’ve come yet! I’d say this is next to perfect. So for anyone thinking of starting a journey in bra-making, I’d say ‘Yes! Go for it!’ It can be a challenge, but it’s also very rewarding.

Happy creating!

And This Time With Seam Allowances?

February 12, 2013December 27, 2017 ~ Michelle

I enjoy reading news online, and usually check what’s new before I read my emails in the morning. One morning there was a video saying what NOT to buy your girlfriend for Valentine’s Day. That got my attention, and I figured it was going to be something to do with lingerie.

And it did have to do with lingerie. Basically, men were being told not to buy bras for their girlfriends because bras were hard to fit. I had no problem with that – that is very true. However, it was the next part that really surprised me and stayed with me.

After telling men not to buy bras for their girlfriends, the video went on to offer help in bra sizing. Here’s their help: The Fruit Rule. If she’s the size of a couple of lemons, then she’s an A cup; the size of a couple of oranges, she’s a B cup; two grapefruits? she’s a C cup. And to finish it off nicely, if she’s the size of two cantaloupes she’s a D cup. Isn’t that nice and neat? I can’t speak for all women, but I don’t fit into that fruit salad.

Enough about fruit comparisons, I’m going to share a little more of my progress with my ‘adjusted’ Shelley pattern.

I’ve been mulling over my Shelley without seam allowances for a while now. I did add seam allowances and then got thinking about whether that was what I needed or not.

I made a tester bra to see how it fit with seem allowances and it just wasn’t giving me the fit I wanted. My dh says I’m trying to get a perfect fit, and I say, ‘Yes, I do want a perfect fit.’

Without the seam allowances added, it fit perfectly into the cradle size I need. Without seam allowances the lower cup fit like a dream – something I’m struggling to achieve. However, without seam allowances, the upper cup was too small. I need more depth to get the bridge to sit against the chest wall, and a little more coverage up top too. I was torn between adding seam allowances and/or redrafting the upper cup somehow.

I decided to add a seam where there isn’t one – I added the amount of a seam allowance to the top of the upper cup, and also changed the pattern so I had the depth I need to bring the bridge back. It all worked. This one got a bow even, or as another blogger put it – it was bow-worthy.

Shelley front view

Here’s my latest Shelley from the front. I used the black forms I’d made and shown a few posts ago. They don’t fill the cups out completely, but I think they fit better than the foam cups did.

I love the lace and duoplex combination on this. The lace was from Merckwaerdigh’s store on eBay. The duoplex and findings are from Bra Makers Supply.

To help the upper cups fit a little better, I didn’t line them this time. On my first Shelley I did line the upper cups. Since I need a little more give there, no lining this time around. And that helped too.

Shelley side view

I have to say, I LOVE how neatly the cups are fitting into the cradle. I am so very pleased with how this has turned out. I didn’t like the look of the ‘easing’. I had to do so much easing along the lower cup, it looked more like gathering to me. And it gave the cups a balloon-like shape. This is much better.

Shelley back view

And a basic back. Looking at it, the straps seem a bit far apart, but I didn’t notice that when I put it on. Something to think about tweaking for my next time.

I got my ‘real’ Shelley pattern in the mail today. Tomorrow I’ll have some time to pull it out and compare all the pieces to what I’ve made from the Pin-Up Girls Classic pattern and CD Designer Bras by YOU! I have to say, I loved learning how to make this, but it will be a treat to have the pattern too.

My next project may be to help out a friend. She recently went to a specialty store and was fitted only to find out they don’t carry anything in her size – too small around the rib cage. After dealing with the fitting challenges of the Omega shape, a small band almost sounds simple. I’ll post what we do, and how it turns out.

Oh, and my dh is also requesting matching panties, so that may be in the near future too. Two other bloggers have just offered free patterns, and I’m planning on trying both of their patterns.

http://www.madalynne.com/

http://www.fehrtrade.com/article/676/free-lacey-thong-panty-pattern

Happy creating!

Shelley is coming February 1st!

January 26, 2013December 27, 2017 ~ Michelle

Now, this might seem a little silly to some, but I’m very excited. I was just on the Bra-Makers web site and saw that the Shelley bra pattern will be available on February 1st. That is very exciting news to me.

Now, the reason it might seem silly is I made this pattern for myself from my Pin-Up Girls Classic pattern & the CD Designer Bras by YOU! So I have a pattern. However, I only have it in my adjusted or altered pattern size. It is a wonderful pattern, and makes such a pretty bra it will be nice to have the real pattern. (that if I use, I have to adjust!) But it will be a wonderful addition to my pattern collection!

PB-3230%20Shelley

This is the Shelley pattern picture from Bra-Makers supply.

Shelley Pattern

The Shelley and the Sewy Rebecca patterns are very similar in that both have lace upper cups and a power bar, but the Shelley has a two-part lower cup whereas the Rebecca only one.

From a few things I’ve either read or heard, a few people have been interested in trying the Rebecca pattern, but are hesitant because it has to come from Europe and/or isn’t in English – I HIGHLY recommend all the patterns I’ve ordered from Bra-Makers’ Supply and this would be no exception. Even though I’ve made it, I’m ordering it!

Happy creating!

The Great Blog Trip or The Search for Sewy Rebecca Instructions

December 27, 2012July 10, 2017 ~ Michelle ~ 23 Comments

I’d read about the Sewy Rebecca bra on Sigrid’s blog. It’s one of her TNT (tried & true) patterns, and they look so lovely. She really does a wonderful job. So after admiring so many of her creations, I wanted to try the pattern for myself.

krprebecca_rosakopie_p1

This is the stock picture from Sewy. Isn’t that a lovely bra? I ordered it from Sewy, which is a German web site. It was a while ago, so I can’t remember the whole ordering process, but I’m pretty sure I emailed them and they sent me a Paypal invoice. I didn’t have any problems at all with my order.

I did have a problem once I got my order though. The instructions are all in German! I started searching on the web. I’d read ELingeriA, had carried the pattern at one time and had a PDF instruction page in English. But ELingeriA had closed. Hmm.

My search continued. I made various attempts to get the instructions, but was beginning to think I would have to use Googe Translate and hope for the best. I did get the PDF from Renee at Miss Celie’s Pants.

I have my PDF English instructions. And for future reference, I am willing to share it.

It was time to sew. I had bought a really beautiful material packet from Merckwaerdigh on eBay. She’s in The Netherlands, but I’ve never had a problem with ordering from her either. She’s always very helpful, and has beautiful fabrics.

So, I have my pattern, English instructions and beautiful material. And I sewed. My bra turned out very well, but… Oh, there have been a lot of buts in this journey to sewing my own bras.

In this case, the cups are too small. I thought the ‘European’ sized bras I had bought in specialty stores were the same as European sizes. It turns out they’re not. This bra is definitely 1, and possibly 2 cup sizes smaller than I need. I am still very pleased though, with this very beautiful bra.

Sewy Rebecca front view