Author: Michelle

A Little Designing

~ Michelle

I was planning my entry for the May Bra-Makers Supply Challenge and thought I’d share my process with you.

 I do have to say, I love polka dots, but stripes haven’t always thrilled me. Remember the apron pattern I was looking at recently? Stripes don’t always play nicely with my hips. However, I set a goal to do all the Challenges this year. So, I sat down and thought of a few ideas.

Panty Idea

For the panty, I knew the perfect pattern right away. The Rad Patterns’ Panel Undies. These are so cute. I have this pattern, but I also made my own self-drafted panty with similar styling. For my submission, I used my pattern.

So I took my inspiration from the Rad Panel Undies and had some fun drawing and coloring a couple of options for what I could sew for the challenge.

I have some adorable black with white polka dot cotton Lycra, and white with black polka dot too. I have some black/gray stripped cotton Lycra I could pair with both of these CLs.

This is one option I’m thinking about, but I did have those polka dot materials planned for a color block halla Agnes top for summer. Hmm, I might have to see if I’ll have enough left over before I go with this idea.

I put these designs aside and thought of another idea.

Tankini Idea

 I had planned to make a Tankini from my swimsuit pattern, and I had already purchased some great swim material from Libelle Sewing last year.Aren’t these great? I hadn’t decided if I wanted the black on the bottom, on the top, or color blocked, but I knew they’d be adorable together.

Then I was thinking about the challenge, and wondering how I could incorporate these polka dots into my Challenge entry.

 I took a look at Libelle Sewing again to see if they had any striped material, and they had this Ombre swim print.Here they are side by side.

Well, I didn’t love the stripes and polka dots together, so I tried coloring a few ideas.

Here’s was my first try.

That was okay, but I wanted the stripes and dots on the same part of the pattern. I kept coloring. I like this one a lot better.

I had one more variation to try.As I was drawing this, I realized exactly what it was I didn’t love about the first two combinations – I wanted more continuity between the top and bottom pieces. So Rad Patterns’ Panel Undies inspiration struck again. I could do an ombre panel on the tankini bottoms as well.

Next week I’ll show you my make for May.

Happy creating!

House Morrighan Ariadne Pattern

~ Michelle

House Morrighan is releasing another great pattern today! It’s the Ariadne Set.

The set consists of a harness and suspender belt.  I’ve seen some amazing sets made, but I didn’t participate in the testing this time. Look at these makes! Pleather, lace, gemstones. Oh my!Again, as with other House Morrighan patterns, there is a lovely range of sizes.You can find the Ariadne pattern here in House Morrighan’s Etsy shop.

From now till June 2nd you can get 25% off this pattern with code – ARIADNESET

Paper copies will be available for purchase in 2 weeks time.

Happy creating!

Bra Fitting 101 Retreat

~ Michelle

At the end of April I took the Bra Fitting 101 Retreat at Central Sewing. Our instructor was Jeanette of Sew Uplifting Custom Bras.

Day One started with another gift bag for each of the students. Let me show you the goodies we got.There was a Fitting binder, and a bra and finding kit in my bag (not shown). As well as the great canvas tote. For students who hadn’t taken the Drafting course, they got a few more goodies like sample packs of Duoplex and Power Net, as well as a set of Pin-Up Girls patterns. I had all those already.

We also were given sheets of these little tiny bra parts that we’d be using over the next few days. We spent the morning cutting these out.On Day Two we were starting to learn what changes to make for different alterations – all using those little tiny bra pattern pieces. It was really great to have these, and to have them to keep as a reference.You can see here in this example, it wasn’t a complicated adjustment – just lengthening the band. Having the samples makes it much neater to look and see any of the adjustments – much better than me freehand drawing these examples.

On Days Three and Four we started to work with live models – who turned out to be the other students in the class. We fitted one another with wires, and with Jeanette’s fitting bras – all under the guidance of Jeanette.

I can tell you, I need more experience with both assessing wire sizes and cup sizes. I wasn’t way off. None of us were way off. But we weren’t able to look at someone and just know the size either. Jeanette made it look easy.

While each woman was in a fitting bra, we went through a check list of possible fitting issues. From basics like is that the right size cup, does the band fit, are the straps too long or short, to all the more detailed adjustments.

That takes us to Day Five.

On Day Five, Jeanette assigned each of us to make a bra for another student. But it was all hush-hush. We knew whose bra we were making, but not who was making one for us.

We all had a checklist, and traced off a bra pattern in the correct size. Then we made the alterations to that pattern based on what we’d seen in the fitting bras and what was on the check list.

Day Five was quiet and intense. We were all feverishly sewing trying to get our bras finished. I just made it.

One of the store clerks came to remind us we had to be packed up and out of the store in 20 minutes and I was still sewing! But I was at the hooks and eyes, so I finished those, gave the bra to my fellow student to try on, and saw what further adjustments she would need. I was close, but it wasn’t perfect. I quickly altered her pattern with a little more help from Jeanette, and gave my fellow student her bra and a newly re-adjusted pattern.

Then I managed to pack up just in time to make the store closing deadline.

Whew!

Are you wondering what the bra I made looked like? Well, I didn’t have time to take a single photo. I got home and my hubby said show me the bra you made, and I couldn’t even show him.

I can show you the bra I had made for me. And I can tell you it needs a few adjustments too.Overall, I have to say it was a great class, and gave us all some fabulous tools to take and use going forward.

Happy fitting and creating!

Revisiting my Croquis

~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

Aprons

I was planning on sewing a couple of things for Libelle Sewing’s upcoming Round 5. One was an apron, so I started to look at apron patterns. I also decided I’d try those aprons on my croquis.

 The first pattern I found was so cute. It’s from Sew Much Good.Isn’t this adorable? I thought so, but then was thinking about it. I was thinking about those horizontal lines and my hips and wondering just how well they’d play together. I got out my croquis again to see how it would look on me.

The apron is still adorable, but I don’t think the lines of this style flatter me. So I kept playing with other styles.

Next

There were a few patterns I liked in this shop, so I kept looking and ‘trying on’ aprons. Here was my next apron try.

Unfortunately, this next one didn’t do anything for me. It’s cute, but not for me.

Third Time

  There’s that saying, third time’s a charm. There was another adorable pattern in the shop, and this one plays nicely with my hips.I love the material used for the apron on the pattern cover. And I loved the style on my croquis.

Yes, this is a better balance for me, and it’s an adorable pattern. I scooped it up.

Here are the two aprons on ‘me’, side by side.Yes, the second one is more flattering on me.

Sewing Samples, Not Sewing Samples

So. I’d taken time to look at a few patterns, tested those patterns on my croquis, bought a pattern, had the material assigned to me, and then a day later made the decision to not sew the samples for Libelle Sewing’s next round.

I’ve mentioned I’ve been busy. But so many of the things I was doing, I loved doing. However, there are times our bodies let us know enough is enough. That happened to me. I ended up with an infection due to being run down. I had to make a few decisions.

So, as much as I enjoy things like testing patterns for House Morrighan (there’s a pattern being tested right now), and sewing samples for Libelle Sewing, for now I’m taking a break from both. I still think both companies are great!

And I have to say, deciding to take a break, I felt relieved and disappointed at the same time. I was disappointed because the material I was going to sew up for Round 5 is adorable! Then I realized I can simply buy some of this material. When Round 5 opens, I’ll share with you the adorable material, and I’m sure you’ll agree it’ll be perfect for an apron. I’ll share the new House Morrighan pattern as soon as it’s released too.

Happy creating!

April BMS Challenge – A Spring in Your Step

~ Michelle

The April Bra-Makers Supply Challenge was A Spring in your step – this challenge is about making garments for an active lifestyle. How about jumping into the challenge and working with spandex, Supplex, wickables and other performance fabrics? Any type of activewear is eligible – be it shorts, leggings, running gear or gym wear. You can even make ath-leisure wear, that perfect combination of activewear and leisure wear.

I knew what I wanted to make for this Challenge. I saw the cutest, and littlest pair of athletic shorts  on a half-size mannequin at Central Sewing. Jeanette had sewn them to show with the half-size Ingrid on display there.I told Jeanette I was going to copy her idea. These are adorable, and I knew my own pair would go so well with the Ingrid bra I just made.

My Pattern

  Last year I made athletic pants for the Challenge. I used my self-drafted panty pattern to get the right size and shape, and the Pin-Up Girls Tankini bottoms to get an idea for the length and how to shape the legs.

For the pair I’m making for this year’s Challenge, I’m going to use the same bases for my new pattern, but change things up a bit more.

This year I didn’t want to make full-length pants. This year, I’m thinking Capri-length will be nice. As well, I’m adding that stripe of scuba down the side. I also wanted a different waistband this year. I wanted a cross-over waistband like in the Miami bikini shown below.

I’ll probably change that a bit too. I’m thinking I want it a bit higher than this waistband.

My Challenge Capris

I’m really happy with how my Challenge Capris turned out.

These are cotton Lycra and scuba from Bra-Makers Supply.

I’ve put the Capri pants on Catherine. I’m working on getting a Legs Display, but until then, Catherine will have to do.

Here’s my Ingrid showing the same scuba. Here’s the scuba panel I added to the side seam. The scuba is really nice to sew, and it adds such a lovely pop of color. I’m so glad I saw Jeanette’s little shorts and copied them.

And here’s the back view. Even the back has a little pop of color with the waistband.

Yes, these turned out very well.

I really like this waistband. It’s one piece that wraps all the way around the back to the front and overlaps. I added two inches to the height of the band pattern. I didn’t think the band would look as good if it was a narrower band – at least not on pants.Lastly, here I am putting my new capri-length pants to good use.I love these, and am happily planning my next Challenge entry.

Happy creating!

Platinum and Pink

~ Michelle ~ 6 Comments

I have a very pretty platinum and pink Ruby to share with you today.I really like the Ruby pattern. It gives a round cup shape, which for me, is perfect.

I’ve been saving this lace for a while too. It’s a lovely delicate grey with pink detail. I knew I’d love it with platinum duoplex, and I do.

Here’s a close-up of the upper cup showing the lace. Isn’t that pretty?

Changing Things Up

To make my Ruby into a lace upper cup like this, I’ve changed my pattern a bit. I cut the lace out without the strap tab that’s on the pattern. I just take my ruler and make a straight edge along the top – from the bridge all the way to the underarm. Then because I like a strap tab and still need something on which I can connect the strap or ring, I cut out the upper cup again with the strap tab in sheer cup lining.

You can see the sheer cup lining meeting the strap in the photo below. I’ve added a fabric strap to this one too. I do like a fabric strap, but am thinking I might still have fun playing with different straps for my Rubies. We’ll see what I come up with for straps going forward.

Here’s the side view of my Ruby.  You can just barely see the pink elastics I’ve used on this bra. I decided the pink was prettier. I also liked carrying the color around to the back of the bra. One last little detail.

Bows

One of the wonderful things about making our own bras is discovering the things we like and don’t like.

One of the things I’ve found I like is wider bows. I don’t love the thinner ones like on the left in the picture below. Now, those bows on the left are adorable because they’re polka dot, but I still prefer wider bows, like on the right in the photo below. I didn’t have a wider pink bow, but did have a narrow one. I decided to change the style of the bow by untying it, and ironing it flat. Then I folded it over, and attached the grey bow over it.I love how the two colors of the bra are in the bow too.

I have a few more Ruby bras planned for Spring.

Happy creating!

Cut and Sew Foam Class

~ Michelle

Another class I took this Spring was the Cut and Sew Foam bra class at Central Sewing, again with Jeanette of Sew Uplifting.

In this class Jeanette was teaching us cut and sew foam drafting and construction techniques with our personal fitted bra pattern. Most of the class sewed a foam bra from our drafted patterns. We all also received the Ruby bra pattern. Jeanette brought in her own sample foam bra, and we all had to inspect every detail of the bra. One detail I noticed was she used jewelry findings for the rings on the front. I loved that detail!The fabric on this is so pretty.

Pattern Problems

 I have to say, I really didn’t enjoy the first day of our class. My drafted pattern, which fits, wasn’t converting to a foam pattern easily.

Here’s my drafted bra. This fits me perfectly.  To make the pattern work for foam, all we had to do was cut off some of the seam allowances. I did that. I did that three times.

Each time I did it, I kept getting the same result. I was shorter along the cross cup seam on the top than on the bottom. My pattern pieces were not fitting together. Jeanette looked at my pattern pieces, and she tried to make them work. She couldn’t figure out what was wrong with those pieces either. For whatever reason, those pattern pieces would not line up.

It was so frustrating. I was using my original pattern, and had transferred all the markings from it. I cut off the correct seams. It should have worked, but it didn’t. It was out by a 1/2-inch!

So, I finally decided I’d just add that 1/2″ difference at the underarm side, and hope for the best.

My Foam Bra

We used a lovely scuba for the foam bras, and they were all so pretty. Here’s mine. I’ve used the red and black floral scuba with all red findings, including red foam on the inside.

Here’s the side view, showing more of the red. One small disappointment was my band turned out to be too big. It’s not fitting well on the display either.Looking at it when I was sewing it, I thought it might be, so I just have the hook and eye tacked on here. I’ll take that off and trim off a bit from each side. After I measure and compare to a well-fitting band, of course.

Class Details

     One of the very pretty features we learned in our class was to do a rolled edge on our bras.Isn’t that a neat and pretty neckline finish? Below you can see it from the inside of the cup.We also learned how to stabilize our strap elastics to give better support. We’ve sewn non-stretch seam tape to the inside of our straps at the front. It’s nice and soft, and helps keep those elastics from stretching.

My Adjustment

 You can see here in the photo below how I added that 1/2″ to my foam upper cup.Have you been wondering how that adjustment turned out?

Well, let me just say I had two choices – I could have made it a little longer, or I could have made it a little shorter. My logic was shorter wouldn’t be better because it could end up too small.

And the results? My bra is 1/2″ too big at the underarm.

Sigh.

The good news is the bra is still wearable, and I’ve adjusted my foam pattern to account for that 1/2″ extra at the underarm. Why it wasn’t all lining up, I’m not sure I’ll ever know, but the pattern has been corrected and is good for my next bra now.

Happy creating!

Supportive Swimsuit Class

~ Michelle

I took another class at Central Sewing. The Supportive Swimsuit class. Jeanette, of Sew Uplifting, was the instructor.

First Attempts

Last year when the Bra-Makers Challenge was Swimwear, I did try making a swimsuit on my own.

I had the Craftsy (now Bluprint) class Sewing Swimsuits, and my pattern. I thought I’d do just fine.

 The first thing I did was figure out what size to make, and I made a muslin.I made this muslin in cotton Lycra, and all seemed to be going well.

Then, after making a few adjustments to my pattern, I cut into my swim material.This is where I started to think something wasn’t right. It was too small on the mannequin. I’m bigger than the mannequin. There was a problem.

At this point, seeing it was going to be too small, I didn’t continue sewing to see how it was all going to go together.And I didn’t enter the Challenge that month.

Fast forward a year.

The Class

The first thing I learned in the class was my measurements were spot on last year. That was good news.

As well, it seemed the alterations Jeanette was adding to my pattern were very similar to the ones I’d made. However, Jeanette sized the whole pattern up to my hip size, which is one size larger than my bust size. Then made adjustments to make the top smaller. I didn’t do that last year.

Fabric

   Our class cost included the pattern, swimsuit liner, and the finding kit, but not the actual swim fabric. I could have brought some from home, but chose instead to buy some from Jeanette in class. I chose this amazing black with fuchsia detailing. Isn’t this stunning?Now, I have to share a story with you. Jeanette brings suitcases full of bra kits and finding kits, plus other goodies to these classes. And we all descend on them like vultures. Honestly. Everything in the class comes to a stop when those cases open.

I saw this material, and another woman saw it at the same time. We agreed no one else was going to come near our material and we put it aside. There was a sweet Minnie Mouse panel that was also getting that same attention.

A Positive Note

There was one positive from last year’s attempt at a bathing suit – I made the bra that goes inside the suit last year, and it fit perfectly. Even more good news is I kept it thinking I’d use it again. And I did.I was able to bring in my swim bra and use that inside my new swimsuit. So last year wasn’t a complete wash.

My Swimsuit

     I’ve tried to pin this on so it fits a little better, but it really doesn’t fit my display. I have a long torso. Oh, that front panel is amazing.

Here’s the side view: The suit has lovely princess seams. We used the Pin-up Girls Denise pattern.And the back view: I love the keyhole opening at the back. It’s lovely, supportive, and it fits! This is the first time a one piece has ever been long enough for me.

Here’s mine and the rest of the swimsuits from the class: It was a great class. And I’m already looking forward to using my new pattern, and making a Tankini.

Happy creating!

Wireless Freedom – BMS March Challenge

~ Michelle

The March BMS Challenge is all about going wireless, and we’re not talking WiFi.

This month is about Marching toward freedom – freedom from wires! Wireless freedom, as they say. So the bras you make this month won’t use any underwires. Let’s see all those creative bralettes, Ingrids, and your wire-free conversions from the Classic or Jewel series of bras.

The first bra I’m submitting to the Challenge is one made during a class. The class was the Sports Bra (The Many Faces of Ingrid) class at Central Sewing. It was another class Jeanette, of Sew Uplifting, was teaching.

My Ingrid

Here’s my new Ingrid. Jeanette brought the materials for us to use. We had our choice of this nice bright scuba on my Ingrid, a more pastel floral, or duoplex. I chose the brighter fabric, most of the class chose the pastel floral, and one student made a duoplex Ingrid.Oh, I like this. It’s nice and bright with a lot of pop! It would be pretty hard to mirror scuba prints, but I did try to get as much of the same pink as possible in my cups.

I made a change in my center front. Instead of using power net, I used power mesh for a different look.

Omega Adjustments

Having Jeanette fit me, and seeing the changes she made to the cup pattern helped me learn something. It was great to see what alterations she made on this cup style. The cup is very different from the PUG Classic, or Shelley, and those are the patterns I’ve worked with the most.

Here’s my bra from the side. I chose to finish my Ingrid with wide elastic rather than lingerie elastic.The wider elastic really makes it feel secure when it’s on. This elastic is called Comfort Elastic, and it really is comfortable.

And the back.Just for fun, I added Fuchsia rings and sliders for a little more color on the back.

I’ve worn this bra a few times now, and it really is comfortable. I’d also promised Em another bralette, so had to make time for that too.

A New Sweet Sixteen

The Pin-Up Girls Sweet Sixteen pattern was revised, and of course I had to try it. (You all know I have a pattern addiction.)

Here are the two patterns. The older one is on the left, and the new one is on the right.Here’s Em’s Sweet Sixteen in all lace.  This is a lovely red, beige & tan lace. It’s very pretty. I made sure to save  some of this for me.

  Here’s the bralette from the side.And here’s the back. Em wanted a more decorative back, but until I know this size is just right for her, she’s only getting a lace back. We’ll do some fancier back details on the next one.I finished this bralette off with some purchased straps. These were marked down to 25 cents. I grabbed a few of them thinking even if I only used the rings and sliders, which are metal, they’d be worth it. I’m glad I was able to use the straps too though.

Em has tried on her new bralette, and tells me she needs a larger band and cup size. So as it turns out, this is the second bralette I’ve made for a friend of Em’s.

I’m off to sew more Fitting bras.

Happy creating!

Pin-Up Girls Newest Addition

~ Michelle

The Pin-Up Girls line of patterns has a new member. Meet the Cheryl Panty pattern.

At first glance, Cheryl may not seem so very different from the Pin-up Girls Panty Basics Pattern.

But they are different.

The new Cheryl is a combination of the two basic styles of panties; the brief and the boy shorts. It is the ideal panty for everyday wear. Cheryl has the look of the brief in the front however the back features a center back seam.

The Panty Pattern includes 4 views, with two height options (waist or hipster), and two leg options (thigh cut and high cut).

The feature I like best is part of all four style options – there are no side seams on these panties. There is one back seam and that’s it. It gives a nice smooth line to the panties.

Here’s my Cheryl from the side.The panty having no side seams is a really nice feature.

Another feature I really like is the lace back that wraps around to the front.

Seeing as I was testing the pattern, I made a basic Hipster panty with no alterations to the pattern – to see how it would fit. The measuring for these panties is a little different from other patterns, so I wasn’t sure how they would fit. This pattern is based on your hip measurement alone.

The good news is they fit and I was pleasantly surprised.

Here’s the front of my Cheryl panty.And here is the back.The seam isn’t that noticeable to look at. Using the lace option, it would become a feature too. And I’ve made panties before with a back seam and I didn’t notice the seam when wearing them either.

This is a nice change from the basic pattern. If you’ve been looking for a seamless panty pattern, here it is – at least no side seams.

The panty is available now at Bra-Makers Supply.

Happy creating!