Wire Woes Still

I’m still having issues with my wires! Still. I can’t even begin to tell you how frustrating this is. As I’m sitting here thinking about it, I remember my mom telling me she couldn’t wear a bra with wires – they always hurt her. I guess I know what I inherited from mom.

I’ll never forget when I did my moulage (back in 2014), I took one look and thought that’s my mom’s body! Yes, I’m really understanding why my mom couldn’t wear underwired bras.

However, I’m not ready to give up yet. 

 My pretty new summery bra hurts. It doesn’t hurt all over. Just in one little place. You all know what an uncomfortable bra feels like – it only needs to hurt in one place.

It feels like the wires are pinching me at the top of the channeling.Right there where the pink arrow is pointing.

I took out the Orange 38 wires. I don’t think the are wide enough at the top. They’re close in shape, but not quite a match for me.

I didn’t close the channeling on this bra so I could test the wires. I tried the Orange wires for a day and knew they were not going to work. Now I’m wearing Flexi-wires, but my bra is still pinching there. Because Flexi-wires have so much flex, I’m thinking it’s the cradle now. I made this cradle to fit a 38 Orange wire.

Thinking about this, I think I need to alter my cradle. A cradle that fits a 38 wire is the right size for the bottom of my cradle, but I think I need a cradle that fits a 40 wire for the top.

When I was first looking at wires with my root trace, I could see the 40 wire fit the top of my trace. 

Here’s what I’m thinking. I’ll make a copy of two cradles – one that fits a 38 wire and one that fits a 40 wire. Then I’ll use the bottom of the 38-sized cradle and the top of the 40-sized one, smoothing out the line between the two pattern sizes.  Above is a cradle that fits a 38 wire drawn in pencil. Then the pink is the cradle that fits a 40 wire. The darker dotted line is the blending of the two.

I’m off to draft a new cradle.

Happy creating!

A Pretty Summery Bra

Oh, some very good news. Draft number four fit so well I couldn’t resist making a new bra. For the most part, my cups were fine. I’d done a lot of work on those. The wires and the bottom of the bridge were what needed the most improvement. So, now I had a well-fitting band, with the correct wire shape, I had to make a new bra.

I looked in my stash, and this lovely delicate lace was calling my name.Oh, I love this lace. It’s so pretty.

My next decision was what to use to finish the bra? I decided to try the lingerie satin B,Wear sells. I had ordered some, but hadn’t tried it yet. I think I fell in love with it as soon as I touched it. It’s so soft!

This lingerie satin does have a bit of stretch, so I wasn’t sure how my bra was going to fit, but I am not disappointed.This is the BMS Ruby pattern, adjusted for an Omega shape.

This fits perfectly – except I forgot to adjust the top of the bridge to make it lower. This bridge is for using elastic along the upper edge, so the bridge and the wires aren’t the same length. However, that’s a very small complaint!You can see here where the wires aren’t coming to the top of the bridge. There’s maybe 2 cm, or better yet 1.5 cm and a touch of wiggle room for the wires. It’s a very small adjustment after some of the others I’ve had to make.

You can also see in the above photo, I had some wrinkling with my elastic under the cup there. I had this problem on my other tester band too. I’m wondering if I have too much of a curved shape there making it just too hard for the elastic to fit to those curves.

Here’s the side view of the bra.Oh, I’m so happy with this. I used a trick I learned in one of my classes with Jeannette to help my large cup fit into my smaller band – I stretched the frame on the outside, and ‘eased’ the cup in. It works so well.

Lastly the back view. I’m so thrilled to have finally found my correct sized wire, and figured out just how to fix my band as well. I have my next bra kit all picked out, and I’m going to sew some more bras!This is another lingerie satin kit from B,Wear.

I do like a power bar, so I’m thinking for my next bra I’ll make a BMS Shelley.

Happy creating!

Ideas for a Bra Dress

A couple of years ago, during one of our bra-making classes with Jeanette (Sew Uplifting), a class idea came up that sounded great! I was ready to sign up that day.

Not long afterwards, that class became an option and I did sign up. The Bra Dress. Unfortunately, that class was cancelled, and as yet, hasn’t been rescheduled.

A couple of my bra-sewing classmates and I have been talking about how do we do this? We can’t take the class. We’ve been waiting for two years for this now. We want this bra dress. So we’ve been brainstorming just how this would we do this.

     I even bought a bathing suit that was on sale last year – just to see how it was made.This is a swim dress from Land’s End.

Here’s the bra inside:   This isn’t exactly what I had in mind. But I kept it because I really like the swim dress.

Here’s the back band:  No, this was definitely not what I was thinking. This is a shelf bra that has wires. I’m thinking an actual bra.

So, I kept looking for ideas. I started looking at some vintage ideas.I saw this great vintage slip on Etsy

Here’s the back view of the slip.Again, this is like the Land’s End suit, the back is like a shelf bra. I’m still thinking of wanting the actual bra clasp at the back though.

I did fine two vintage sewing patterns on Etsy too. I think this is the idea I’m going for – a bra built into a slip, then attached to the dress at the shoulders.

Oh, I wish I could see the back of this one. However, this pattern design is very similar to the Elite bra.

I wish I could see the back of this one too. I want to know how these slips fasten.I’ll keep thinking about this. My draft cup alterations are done, so I’ll share that with you next week.

Happy creating!

Something a Little Different

I didn’t get to any sewing this week. To be completely honest, my husband had 2 surgeries in the past 3 weeks, and I was utterly exhausted afterwards. I didn’t realize how much I was carrying it. He’s fine. He’s better than ever, and so thankful he was able to have the surgeries. So all is good there.

I wasn’t sewing most of this time. I wasn’t doing a lot of anything other than watching videos. However, I did watch one video, and I found it very helpful for something I’ve wanted to cross off my to-do list.

It’s been five years now that I’ve had this sweet little preemie Cabbage Patch doll. She’s adorable, and I got her because I too was a preemie baby.The first thing I did after I got her was curl her hair. Then I made her a sweet little slip dress with some pantaloons underneath.   

I’ve been very happy with her transformations, but there was one thing I still wanted to change. My eyes have some brown in them but overall they’re green. I wanted my preemie baby to have green eyes too.

This past week a video started playing after one I had watched. It was an artist re-doing the eyes and make up on a doll. He said he used watercolor pencil crayons. I stopped the video right away and went to my sewing room. Yes, I still had a tin of watercolor crayons with my fabric markers. I was going to redo my doll’s eyes.

I didn’t take off her eye color first, for a couple of reasons. I don’t know that I could re-draw the eyes well enough to satisfy me. And as I mentioned, I have some brown in my eyes as well. So I decided to ‘enhance’ the eyes, rather than re-do them completely. Here are the eyes in a side-by-side photo.  Yes, they’re a little bit brighter and lighter. She’s just perfect to me now.

I’m off to play with my draft. Happy creating!

Basic Beige

A couple of great sewing friends contacted me. We’d all taken classes with Jeanette of Sew Uplifting, but we were all feeling a lack of motivation. We decided to get together over Zoom, and agree to some accountability – we’d all make something by the end of April.

I shared I was just weary, and didn’t want to keep working on my draft right now. I don’t want to give up on it, but I wanted to sew again. So I said I’d sew a bra.

I need a basic beige bra in my wardrobe, so that’s what I made.This is my drafted frame and the cups from B, Wear’s Angie pattern.

This bra is using my new wire style and size, and unfortunately, although that seems to be fitting better, I now need to go up a size in the cups.

The Omega shape is causing problems again. 

I’m using a size smaller wire, so I had to lower both the front and the sides of the cups to get it to fit in the frame. This is also a narrower frame – to fit the wire. Once I put the bra on, I could see I really need a power bar to pull in everything on the side.

Something I really like about the Angie pattern is how rounded the cups are. They give such a nice shape when wearing the bra too. However, using the smaller wire size and narrower frame, the rounder shape didn’t seem to be fitting into my frame as well.

   The back is fine. The band is too. It was comfortable, and stayed in place. However, I’m very disappointed this is not wearable.

I’m off to work on getting my next bra to fit.

Happy creating!

Some Good News

Hello!

Sorry I’ve been quiet for over a month. Spring is coming, the weather is warming up, it’s sunny most days. I’m feeling more motivated to be creative again.

Something I have been doing is knitting. I’ve been enjoying the slow pace of it. I’ve been finishing the Annie’s Knit Kit. I’m done all the squares now, and have started blocking them. Here’s the square I’m blocking right now. It rolls under, and it isn’t actually square.After it’s all pinned it’s square. Then I spray it really well with water and leave it to dry. I really am enjoying this. It’s wonderful to unpin each square and see how nice it looks.

I had some good news this week. My Instagram account is back! My photos are all there. I’m so happy. I didn’t want to try to find all my old photos and upload them again.

I’ll be back in a couple of weeks with more makes. I’ve decided to let the drafting rest for a bit. I miss actual sewing, so it’s time to make a few lovelies again. 

Happy creating! 

A New Discovery

I’m following along with the Drafting course on the Porcelynne website, and I’m learning new tricks and tips.

The first one I want to share with you is something you’ve probably heard about: A flexible ruler.I’ll be honest. I bought one of these after reading it would help to do a root trace. It didn’t help me with that at all. Not one little bit. At least it didn’t help me at all.

However, watching the course I saw a brilliant use for it! Use it to measure along the curve of the wire line. Really brilliant!

I just curve the ruler along the curve of my circle and mark where I need to mark. It’s so much easier than bending a flexible ruler, trying to hold it with one hand, and then mark with the other.

I will no longer view this as a useless item I picked up. This is really great!

Happy creating!

Drafting Again

Just a short little post today. I’m also posting a little earlier than my usual Saturday posting. 

I’ve been working on bra drafting again. This past month, there was a live draft-along on Facebook. It was for the Bare Essentials drafting method, so I signed up.

Now, if you’re interested in the drafting course, or any other Bare Essentials course, they’re on sale this week. The sale ends Sunday, so I thought I’d post early just in case someone was interested in getting in on the sale. (I have no affiliation with the sale.) 

I didn’t draft along. I was still trying to get my head around this way of drafting. It’s quite different from the Beverly Johnson method, which was the method I knew, and have used. So after a week of watching along, I knew I still needed help. Both instructors were offering one-on-one sessions. I signed up with both of them, and I’m really glad I did. They both come at the process differently, and I think things are finally starting to click.

The one instructor, Jane, has come up with an online calculator you can purchase, which does all the calculations for you. It’s wonderful!  I can’t even begin to say how helpful this is. Every mathematical measurement is given here for your draft. You put in your measurements and it does it automatically. You just have to refer back to your numbers to do your draft. It’s very helpful.

I have a pattern, and tester band to try out. I’ll let you know how things go.

Happy creating!

A Very Different Jessica

2021 had barely begun, and I sewed up a bra. I have to tell you, that felt really good. After a pretty sad 2019, and 2020 just added more to the burden, it felt really good to start 2021 off with some sewing.

A few months ago, I read a post on Facebook about a Jessica bra sewn from cotton jersey. This intrigued me. I read the post, and all of the comments, and then even contacted the woman who’d sewn the bra and chatted too.

She made the bra because she deals with pain. Well, I can relate to that. I deal with pain as well. So, that post, and her lovely jersey bra stayed in my thoughts.

I decided I was going to try to do the same thing. Sew up a bra from nice soft jersey and see how it fit, and how comfortable it would be.It’s so lovely! It’s also so very comfortable. Everything about this bra is the same as a ‘normal’ bra – channeling, underwire, but it’s all soft cotton jersey.To account for the stretchiness of the jersey, the original sewer went down a full size to make her jersey bra. I did the same, and it fits very well. I do need to make a couple of adjustments for my Omega shape, but other than that, this is a very good fit.  There isn’t anything different about the back except I used jersey again. The whole bra is jersey except for the elastics, and the underwire and wires. As well, to keep this very soft and comfortable, I did not stabilize the frame.

I’m sure there are those wondering if this have any support. No. It’s not a supportive bra. It’s better than wearing nothing, but there is minimal lift or shaping. However, we’re all in a lockdown, and this is the most comfortable bra I’ve ever worn! I will be making more of these.

Happy creating!

One More Angie

I’m finishing the year with one more Angie bra. The bra I made for my friend fit her really well, but she needed a little more room along the upper cup.

So with a few small changes to the pattern, I made her another Angie. I pulled out Catherine (my dress form) for this Angie. She’s a little wider through the back than my white dress form. So I thought the bra would fit better around. And it does.

I also decided to add fabric straps to this Angie. I wanted to see how they’d work, and they seem to work fine.

Here’s the side view. My friend is an Omega shape as well, but you can’t tell by how the cups fit in. I do love that!There isn’t anything different about the back except I did the two stitches to attach the strap elastic again. I do like it better. I hope this Angie fits perfectly.

Do you have any sewing goals for 2021? I plan to work on my drafting some more, sew a quilt, and learn to use my treadle sewing machine. I’m sure bras will be in there too.

Happy creating & Happy New Year!