Author: Michelle

Using MicroDuoplex

~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

I have a couple of really beautiful bra kits with Microduoplex in them. I’ve heard often that it’s very hard to sew, so I ordered some plain white to practice sewing it.

I’d also read as many tips as I could about how to sew it. Those tips are things like: use tear-away paper underneath two layers, use a microtek needle, use So Fine thread, lengthen your stitch length, use a straight stitch plate.

I tried almost all of the suggestions – probably in the same order as above too. There were a lot of skipped stitches and sections where the stitches didn’t take at all the first few times. Believe it or not, this was sewn all the way across. You can see the skipped stitches, and where there are no stitches in the material at all.

I didn’t find the paper underneath did a thing. Nor was I finding any of the others tips helpful either. That is, until I decided I would buy a straight stitch plate for my machine. Once I had the straight stitch plate on, the microduoplex sewed so easily. It was amazing the difference it made.

It sewed so easily without any paper underneath, and without the longer stitch length. Let me tell you, while I was sewing, I thought that new stitch plate was completely worth the money I paid for it!Once I started sewing, I was excited to finish a bra. This one was only using  white mircoduoplex, and then a bit of lace left over.

 This is very pretty. I have to say, after trying the straight stitch plate for the cups, the bra came together quite easily.

I can see one problem with my photos though. The foam cups I’ve been using really don’t fit my size now. I’m going to cut out some new foam cups this week.

One bit of experimenting I did on this bra was to add some non-stretch lace to the strap elastic at the front. My thought was many high-end RTW bras use strap elastic only, but have a bit of embelishment on the front strap. I was thinking it’s more than just decoration – it’s to stabilize the straps.

I would have used a bit more lace, but I was down to scraps and that was all I had left. That lace was very well used.

If you haven’t tried microduoplex, I do encourage you to try it – but make sure you have a straight stitch plate! It really is a lovely material for our bra-making.

Happy creating!

Seamless Clover Boybrief

~ Michelle

If you remeber last week I was planning to try a boyshort pattern with the fusible elastic. I looked through my patterns, and chose my favorite one. The House Morrighan Clover pattern.

The reason this is my favorite ‘boybrief’ pattern is there are curves built into the shape of the pattern. A lot of boyshort patterns don’t suit a curvy shape. And if you’re wondering, by curvy I mean actual curves. I’m not using it to refer to plus size. This pattern starts at a size 6.

So I chose my favorite pattern. Then I thought how the gusset was too narrow on the last trial. So on this one, I added 1/2″ to the sides of one of the gusset pieces. The other I left as it usually is.  

This way, when I fold over the larger gusset, it will enclose the sides and make a nice neat finish – and not be too narrow.

I also added 1/2″ to the leg openings. I didn’t want a shorter boyshort. I guess if you want a cheekier look don’t add the 1/2″.

Here are my seamless Clover boybriefs.   Oh, I do like these.  

These turned our perfectly!

One fusible elastic user beware: You can’t see the front when turning it over and ironing it. Check before you iron! I got a pucker.

That little pucker? It’s fused in place. I learned my lesson to really make sure this was bonded from the first pair I made. Now I’ve learned to check before I fold over the material and fuse it again. Other than that, these really turned out perfectly. 

Happy creating!

Still Playing with Fusible Elastic

~ Michelle ~ 6 Comments

I loved trying the new fusible elastic on my most recent pair of panties. I’d purchased a whole role of the HeatnBond, so decided to have some more fun with that.  Yes, 10 yards of it will last me a while.

Here’s a stock photo showing how it’s used.I may do a whole panty using the fusible elastic, but for my next one, I wanted to see how it was around the leg opening.

One issue I might experience is I usually pull the lace around the lower leg  curve of the back of the panty. I don’t want things riding up or moving around, and just a little tension there really does keep everything in place. I won’t be able to add that tension with the fusible elastic.

    I think these are almost as equally adorable as my first pair. Hmm. I don’t love how narrow this gusset is. That’s something to change on my next try.

And I’ll share a warning – this tape doesn’t love curves at all. After struggling a bit to add it to one side, I ended up tearing off short strips along the second side.  It does give a very neat finish, but sadly, just what I was thinking would happen happened. The back doesn’t hug the way it usually does.You can see the difference in the photo below. The lace being applied with a little tension makes a big difference.This is the same pattern, same size. It’s the same fabric even. So the only difference is the tension that’s been applied.

I was thinking about it and I think this fusible elastic would be best used on a boyshort pattern. 

Look at this boyshort from BMS. These leg openings are pretty straight.   This fusible elastic would be best used on a pattern like this. I think I’ll look through my patterns and see which boyshort patterns I have that will work well with this type of elastic.

Happy creating!

Seamless Panties

~ Michelle

I don’t know how many of you watched The Great Bra Sewing Bee this August. I loved it! In fact, I’m going to make sure I have the whole year’s access next year.

There was one class I was watching, and I had to rewind the class. What did I just see? It was the Panty Drafting Based on Inspiration Images class with Angela Gough.

At one point in her class, she used a stretch adhesive tape on the edge of her panty. She ironed it, and folded it over and ironed it again! No seams! No sewing! 

What? I’ve never seen anything like that before.

I sent off a message to Bodil of B,Wear, and I asked her what this magical tape was. She said she was already looking for it because at the time the video was released it was only available at the Sewing Chest in the UK.

    Well, Bodil got some in and sent me a sample with an order. I couldn’t wait to try it.I pulled out one of my favorite panty patterns – Kwik Sew 2286.

I didn’t have enough for the whole panty. I actually didn’t have enough for the whole waistband. But that was okay. I had also purchased some HeatnBond Ultra to test. I used them both on these panties.I used the Fusible Iron-on elastic sample Bodil sent on the back of the panties and it bonded perfectly. I used the HeatnBond on the front, and it didn’t bond perfectly. I had to redo it because after handling the panties it was coming undone.

    After a second press with a hot iron, it seems to have bonded now.I’m very happy with my new seamless panties. I can’t wait to have more fun this way.

Happy creating!

Mother of the Groom Dress

~ Michelle ~ 4 Comments

My youngest son is getting married. Seeing as it’s a summer wedding, I wanted something a little more comfortable to wear, as in breathable.

I looked and looked for a dress, but I had the hardest time finding something I loved. A lot of what I saw looked too casual for a wedding. I think I ordered four different dresses and sent them all back.

I knew I wanted a blue dress. Their wedding colors for the groom are grey and blue. I thought it fitting to wear blue as I’m on the groom’s side. I loved the first dress, the one on the left, but you know how sometimes navy can be so dark it looks black? It looked black. As well, I was going to have to alter the sleeves. I didn’t want long sleeves.

The second dress was nice enough, but it wasn’t quite as new as I was expecting. Someone else had worn it and returned it. I opened the package and I could smell it before I took it out of the plastic it was wrapped in. That was disgusting. I sent them both back.

My next plan was to make something. I bought the most gorgeous material from Spoonflower, however because of time constraints I didn’t order a swatch. If you ever plan to order from them, and I highly recommend them, do yourself and them a favor and order a swatch first. Unfortunately, the beautiful navy showing on the website was not the same color as I received.When I paired it with the navy I had, it looked more purple than blue.I was back to square zero, and still needed to find or make a dress. It was the beginning of August by this point.

A friend suggested the Gala Gown by P4P. I looked at it and thought it was lovely. Great. I had my pattern. I ordered some cotton Lycra, and in a few days I was on my way.

Here’s my Gala Gown. I made the full-length option, with pockets. My husband thinks it’s wonderful. He loves the color and the style. I love the full skirt. And did I mention pockets? My husband thought I was going to carry around car keys and such in my pockets! He thought pockets were a terrible idea. No, I’m more thinking of a tissue or two.

Happy creating!

BRAugust 2021

~ Michelle ~ 3 Comments

Have you been following BRAugust on Instagram? I have. I’ve been participating too. It’s great fun, and so inspirational!

Tailor Made Shop is hosting it. Each day there is a different theme. It’s been really fun to look back and see what I’ve made over the years that fits with the themes.Here are a few of my makes.

 

I haven’t been doing any bra-making, as much as I want to do just that. Instead, I’ve been sewing a dress to wear to a family wedding that happening this month.This is the P4P Gala Gown. It’s a lovely dress to sew, and I only have that one more panel for the front to sew on. Once the dress is done, I can have some more fun playing with lace and making bras.

Happy creating! 

Another Josey

~ Michelle

Well. I really liked my newest Josey Bra. So much so that I cut out another one right away and sewed it up.

Yes, I really like it. The only thing I needed to change on that first Josey was I actually made the band too long. I don’t even know how I did that seeing I used my tester frame.

So I fixed the length of the band. On this one I also decided to use the cradle and frame that comes with the Josey pattern. I made sure it was matching my cradle, and the corrected length of my band before I cut it out.

   I used the same lace as from my Summery bra. I love the delicate floral pattern in it. Seeing as it had bright pink, I decided to match it with some fuchsia I had in my stash. My hubby told me he doesn’t like the combo.

Look at those pretty colors in there. Pink, purple, a light orange. I think they’re lovely, and match with the fuchsia well.

I think it’s a very pretty summery bra.

I also added some lace to the center front. This pattern has a split cradle, so I took advantage of that feature to easily add the lace.My only disappointment at all is the little embroidered flowers aren’t showing on the bridge. One of them is barely showing. Just peeking out from the bottom edge.

I’m sure there will be yet another Josey very soon, and some matching panties too.

Happy creating!

Lace Ideas

~ Michelle ~ 4 Comments

I recently saw the most lovely creative use for scraps of lace. It was on one of the forums on Facebook.

An artist, Hot Cross Floss, is using bits of lace and incorporating it in her embroidery. Her artwork is gorgeous. She was asking in one of the groups for scraps of lace.Isn’t this lovely?

She also shared this one.Her work is really lovely. You can see more on her IG page.

I know this next part seems totally unrelated to the above work, but stick with me.

This past week I was looking for a collage quilt from Laura Heine. She’d done a European village scene. When I did find it, I realized it was Spanish Row Houses, and it was only available for a retreat.Despite this not being available now, it got me looking at her patterns.  I found this one on Etsy. This is Pretty In Pink. I’m in love with this. I am going to do this! I love the leopard print band on the bra, and the floral power bars. Oh, there is so much I love about this.

Then I started to think what a great way to use some lace scraps. I could incorporate those into the pattern. I think it would still look great done in quilting cotton, but perhaps a lace power bar, or lace straps. I could take my favorite bra pattern and incorporate the design into the collage – give it different seams, or a lace upper cup. 

What fun ideas have you thought to use bits of lace? I’d love to hear.

Happy creating!

Josey Bra Take Two

~ Michelle ~ 6 Comments

My first attempt with the Josey Bra came up short. Well, a bit short across the cup anyway. But overall, I knew I was close.

I was thinking about doing a hack, but part way through drafting it, I decided I’d be better off to just do a quick test of the next cup size up.

So that’s what I did.I grabbed some scraps again, and did a quick tester cup. It’s looking good.

Next I measured the bottom of the cup against the cradle. I had to find 2 1/2-inches to remove from the bottom of the cup so the cup will fit into my cradle.

Once that was done, I had a working pattern. It was time to break out a bra kit and try this pattern. 

   If you’ve followed my blog for any amount of time, I’m sure you can imagine the self-talk that was going on while I was making this bra. After all the tries and trials I’ve had, I kept telling myself to not get excited. That is probably wasn’t going to fit. That this was just going to get me one step closer, and it was fine.

Well, it fits! It fits perfectly! No alterations. No fitting issues. No adjustments. This pattern fits as is, with only the Omega adjustments to fit it into my cradle.The bridge is the correct width for me, the cups fit, and the bridge also tacks all the way to the top of the bridge. I hated to take this off for photos.

I decided to make fabric straps to go with the bra, and I do like them. I may change that up for my next one so they don’t have the lace trim on the inside. Just for a different look.

As well, mine is made of duoplex, as I don’t have a lot of micro duoplex in my stash. I did order some so I can try it. 

I was also so excited I immediately dug into my stash looking for some panty fabric to make a set. Oh, these are adorable!

Here’s my whole set.

I’m a happy bra-maker today, and I’m already planning my next one. However, I also have a dress to make for a family wedding. I’ll have to fit in some time for me too and make a few more pretty Josey bras.

Happy creating!         

First attempt at the Josey Bra Pattern

~ Michelle

There are a few lovely bra patterns out there that I’ve yet to try. However, before I tried them, I had to figure out all the changes to my size over the last few years.

All the work on the fitting band, and getting the right wire, I was ready to try one of those pretty new-to-me patterns. I chose the Josey pattern for my first new pattern to try.Version 2 of the Josey pattern was released last week, so it was perfect timing for me to try the newer version too. It has quite a few adjustments done to the pattern.

The first thing I did was to sew up a test cup. I know my band and wires are good now. It was time to dig into my stash and find some bits that were left over from other projects and test the cup.

I found the perfect amount of duoplex, and some lace for my test cup.It’s very pretty, but it’s a tad too small across the cup.Just as the inside of the cup doesn’t cover all of the foam cup underneath it, it doesn’t reach all the way across to where it would meet my bridge.

If you remember how I was going to hack my frame from two different sizes, I’m thinking of doing the same thing with the Josey pattern.

Above is a frame that fits a 38 wire (pencil), and a  40 wire (pink pencil). The heavy dotted line is where the two sizes blend together.

Seeing as I need to make Omega adjustments, I don’t really want to go with a bigger bottom cup, so don’t want a bigger size for that. However, I do need more room about mid-way and at the top of the cup. A larger size there might just be perfect.

I’ll play with it a little this week and let you know.

Happy creating!