Bra-Making

Angie’s Twin

~ Michelle ~ 4 Comments

It was time. It was time for me to sew a bra again. I have have a couple of patterns I’ve bought over the last year, and I decided to start with one of those.

I started with Angie’s Twin.

I really loved my first Angie. I made this one a few years ago now. And sadly, my size has changed and she didn’t fit anymore.

If you haven’t sewn an Angie, I do recommend it. Those vertical seam give such great lift. And it has a really nice rounded shape.

I really loved this bra so much. So when I was going to make Angie’s Twin, I used Ivory duplex again to make her. Other than the size being different, I didn’t change a lot else. I used different neckline trim, and made the straps differently this time.

I kept telling myself I was only sewing this up to see how it would fit. It didn’t have to fit. And I had to give myself a pep talk the whole time sewing it. And guess what? It fits!

The band fits a bit more snugly than I’d like. But it fits really well. My hubby has learned so much while I’ve been sewing bras and learning about fitting. He even commented on how it went all the way back on the bridge. I was impressed by how much he’s learned too.Here’s Angie’s Twin from the side. I used some of the same tricks and tips I’d learned taking Jeanette’s classes to get my Omega cup into a smaller frame. I like how it’s looking. No wrinkles. It looks like it was made to fit together. And the back.

There was one other little tip I used to make the strap elastic non-stretch.I sewed non-stretch seam tape along the inside of the front of the strap elastic. That will reduce how much stretch it will have. It stabilizes it. So, rather than make a separate non-stretch strap for my Angie’s Twin, I’ve used strap elastic for the whole strap.

I’m very encouraged, and am already planning my next bra, and the one after that!

Speaking of bra patterns, have you seen this?This is on my list of things to sew.   

Happy creating!

September BMS Challenge – STRAPtember

~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

September – STRAPtember – We often see interesting straps in ready-to-wear, but how many of us actually try those straps on our own garments? Here’s your chance! We challenge you to make interesting, innovative and inspiring straps. The straps can be for a bra, bralette, swimwear, or other intimate apparel. Our tutorials this month will feature straps from ready-to-wear you can make at home.

Ooh Straps

I don’t usually do too much with my straps, but I think it’s time to try. I’ve had a few ideas of what to do, and I have a whole folder on my computer full of images of straps. Here are just a few.I even have a couple of kits with strap lace in my stash. You know those kits that you save for someday. The strap lace is similar to what’s shown below on this gorgeous bra.   Just look at these straps from a favorite RTW bra, the Prima Donna Milady. Those little bits of heart lace are adorable. I have some similar bits in kits from Kantje Boord. In fact, I bought the kit for the strap lace.

I decided it was time to break into that kit. It’s time to use the pretty things I have and not save them for someday. Oh, it’s so pretty.

And I decided to use my Ruby pattern again.

My September BMS challenge entry

Here’s my latest Ruby bra.This is a gorgeous left & right mirrored lace. It was my first time using anything like this, and it was fun. I chose beige duoplex for my frame because there was some pretty floral detail in beige too. I tried it with brown, but that was just too dark.

Seeing as the emphasis this month was straps, here’s a nice close up of my straps, and the lovely strap lace.To reinforce them, I’ve used sheer cup lining to make narrow tubes behind this strap lace. It worked perfectly.

Here’s the side view.I’ve used the lower edge of the lace with just a little bit of the embroidery on it for the lower cup pieces.

Here you can see the back of the bra. This kit had the most adorable oval sliders. Just adding something a little different like this can be such a nice change. Lastly, I cut out a tiny floral from some of the remaining embroidered lace and used that instead of a bow on the center front.    Have you used a kit with strap lace before? I really enjoyed it and want another kit now.

Happy creating!

August BMS Challenge – Lacy Daze of Summer

~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

August – Lacy Daze of Summer – In 2018 we asked you to construct garments using two pieces of lace in the same garment. We won’t ask you to do that again this year. Well, not exactly. However, we are asking that you use lace and a sheer fabric together in the same garment. Cool and comfortable, as well as beautiful.

I liked this idea better than the two laces in a single garment we did last year for the challenge. However, I still wanted to do something a little different. So, here is my Lacy Daze of Summer submission.This is the lovely Ruby pattern. The cups are all lace with sheer cup lining behind the lace. That lining is not my sheer though. You can’t actually see the sheer part of my bra from the front.

But a peek at the side view and the sheer comes into view.I’ve used this awesome burnout material for the band. It’s a little bit lighter than regular power net, but I couldn’t resist it. And it’s a fun little detail to make the sheer detail part of the band.

Here’s a close up of the material with my hand behind it.I love this material. This was a purchase from a few years ago from Merckwaerdigh’s Etsy store.

Here’s the back of the bra.There’s no lace showing here. I think it’s so fun to have two very different looks for this bra.  Oh, I love this material! I think a whole bra in this would look amazing.

This has been a very fun challenge entry for me. I love the surprise of the back band with it’s sheer burnout parts.

Happy creating!

Bra Fitting 101 Retreat

~ Michelle

At the end of April I took the Bra Fitting 101 Retreat at Central Sewing. Our instructor was Jeanette of Sew Uplifting Custom Bras.

Day One started with another gift bag for each of the students. Let me show you the goodies we got.There was a Fitting binder, and a bra and finding kit in my bag (not shown). As well as the great canvas tote. For students who hadn’t taken the Drafting course, they got a few more goodies like sample packs of Duoplex and Power Net, as well as a set of Pin-Up Girls patterns. I had all those already.

We also were given sheets of these little tiny bra parts that we’d be using over the next few days. We spent the morning cutting these out.On Day Two we were starting to learn what changes to make for different alterations – all using those little tiny bra pattern pieces. It was really great to have these, and to have them to keep as a reference.You can see here in this example, it wasn’t a complicated adjustment – just lengthening the band. Having the samples makes it much neater to look and see any of the adjustments – much better than me freehand drawing these examples.

On Days Three and Four we started to work with live models – who turned out to be the other students in the class. We fitted one another with wires, and with Jeanette’s fitting bras – all under the guidance of Jeanette.

I can tell you, I need more experience with both assessing wire sizes and cup sizes. I wasn’t way off. None of us were way off. But we weren’t able to look at someone and just know the size either. Jeanette made it look easy.

While each woman was in a fitting bra, we went through a check list of possible fitting issues. From basics like is that the right size cup, does the band fit, are the straps too long or short, to all the more detailed adjustments.

That takes us to Day Five.

On Day Five, Jeanette assigned each of us to make a bra for another student. But it was all hush-hush. We knew whose bra we were making, but not who was making one for us.

We all had a checklist, and traced off a bra pattern in the correct size. Then we made the alterations to that pattern based on what we’d seen in the fitting bras and what was on the check list.

Day Five was quiet and intense. We were all feverishly sewing trying to get our bras finished. I just made it.

One of the store clerks came to remind us we had to be packed up and out of the store in 20 minutes and I was still sewing! But I was at the hooks and eyes, so I finished those, gave the bra to my fellow student to try on, and saw what further adjustments she would need. I was close, but it wasn’t perfect. I quickly altered her pattern with a little more help from Jeanette, and gave my fellow student her bra and a newly re-adjusted pattern.

Then I managed to pack up just in time to make the store closing deadline.

Whew!

Are you wondering what the bra I made looked like? Well, I didn’t have time to take a single photo. I got home and my hubby said show me the bra you made, and I couldn’t even show him.

I can show you the bra I had made for me. And I can tell you it needs a few adjustments too.Overall, I have to say it was a great class, and gave us all some fabulous tools to take and use going forward.

Happy fitting and creating!

Platinum and Pink

~ Michelle ~ 6 Comments

I have a very pretty platinum and pink Ruby to share with you today.I really like the Ruby pattern. It gives a round cup shape, which for me, is perfect.

I’ve been saving this lace for a while too. It’s a lovely delicate grey with pink detail. I knew I’d love it with platinum duoplex, and I do.

Here’s a close-up of the upper cup showing the lace. Isn’t that pretty?

Changing Things Up

To make my Ruby into a lace upper cup like this, I’ve changed my pattern a bit. I cut the lace out without the strap tab that’s on the pattern. I just take my ruler and make a straight edge along the top – from the bridge all the way to the underarm. Then because I like a strap tab and still need something on which I can connect the strap or ring, I cut out the upper cup again with the strap tab in sheer cup lining.

You can see the sheer cup lining meeting the strap in the photo below. I’ve added a fabric strap to this one too. I do like a fabric strap, but am thinking I might still have fun playing with different straps for my Rubies. We’ll see what I come up with for straps going forward.

Here’s the side view of my Ruby.  You can just barely see the pink elastics I’ve used on this bra. I decided the pink was prettier. I also liked carrying the color around to the back of the bra. One last little detail.

Bows

One of the wonderful things about making our own bras is discovering the things we like and don’t like.

One of the things I’ve found I like is wider bows. I don’t love the thinner ones like on the left in the picture below. Now, those bows on the left are adorable because they’re polka dot, but I still prefer wider bows, like on the right in the photo below. I didn’t have a wider pink bow, but did have a narrow one. I decided to change the style of the bow by untying it, and ironing it flat. Then I folded it over, and attached the grey bow over it.I love how the two colors of the bra are in the bow too.

I have a few more Ruby bras planned for Spring.

Happy creating!

Cut and Sew Foam Class

~ Michelle

Another class I took this Spring was the Cut and Sew Foam bra class at Central Sewing, again with Jeanette of Sew Uplifting.

In this class Jeanette was teaching us cut and sew foam drafting and construction techniques with our personal fitted bra pattern. Most of the class sewed a foam bra from our drafted patterns. We all also received the Ruby bra pattern. Jeanette brought in her own sample foam bra, and we all had to inspect every detail of the bra. One detail I noticed was she used jewelry findings for the rings on the front. I loved that detail!The fabric on this is so pretty.

Pattern Problems

 I have to say, I really didn’t enjoy the first day of our class. My drafted pattern, which fits, wasn’t converting to a foam pattern easily.

Here’s my drafted bra. This fits me perfectly.  To make the pattern work for foam, all we had to do was cut off some of the seam allowances. I did that. I did that three times.

Each time I did it, I kept getting the same result. I was shorter along the cross cup seam on the top than on the bottom. My pattern pieces were not fitting together. Jeanette looked at my pattern pieces, and she tried to make them work. She couldn’t figure out what was wrong with those pieces either. For whatever reason, those pattern pieces would not line up.

It was so frustrating. I was using my original pattern, and had transferred all the markings from it. I cut off the correct seams. It should have worked, but it didn’t. It was out by a 1/2-inch!

So, I finally decided I’d just add that 1/2″ difference at the underarm side, and hope for the best.

My Foam Bra

We used a lovely scuba for the foam bras, and they were all so pretty. Here’s mine. I’ve used the red and black floral scuba with all red findings, including red foam on the inside.

Here’s the side view, showing more of the red. One small disappointment was my band turned out to be too big. It’s not fitting well on the display either.Looking at it when I was sewing it, I thought it might be, so I just have the hook and eye tacked on here. I’ll take that off and trim off a bit from each side. After I measure and compare to a well-fitting band, of course.

Class Details

     One of the very pretty features we learned in our class was to do a rolled edge on our bras.Isn’t that a neat and pretty neckline finish? Below you can see it from the inside of the cup.We also learned how to stabilize our strap elastics to give better support. We’ve sewn non-stretch seam tape to the inside of our straps at the front. It’s nice and soft, and helps keep those elastics from stretching.

My Adjustment

 You can see here in the photo below how I added that 1/2″ to my foam upper cup.Have you been wondering how that adjustment turned out?

Well, let me just say I had two choices – I could have made it a little longer, or I could have made it a little shorter. My logic was shorter wouldn’t be better because it could end up too small.

And the results? My bra is 1/2″ too big at the underarm.

Sigh.

The good news is the bra is still wearable, and I’ve adjusted my foam pattern to account for that 1/2″ extra at the underarm. Why it wasn’t all lining up, I’m not sure I’ll ever know, but the pattern has been corrected and is good for my next bra now.

Happy creating!

Supportive Swimsuit Class

~ Michelle

I took another class at Central Sewing. The Supportive Swimsuit class. Jeanette, of Sew Uplifting, was the instructor.

First Attempts

Last year when the Bra-Makers Challenge was Swimwear, I did try making a swimsuit on my own.

I had the Craftsy (now Bluprint) class Sewing Swimsuits, and my pattern. I thought I’d do just fine.

 The first thing I did was figure out what size to make, and I made a muslin.I made this muslin in cotton Lycra, and all seemed to be going well.

Then, after making a few adjustments to my pattern, I cut into my swim material.This is where I started to think something wasn’t right. It was too small on the mannequin. I’m bigger than the mannequin. There was a problem.

At this point, seeing it was going to be too small, I didn’t continue sewing to see how it was all going to go together.And I didn’t enter the Challenge that month.

Fast forward a year.

The Class

The first thing I learned in the class was my measurements were spot on last year. That was good news.

As well, it seemed the alterations Jeanette was adding to my pattern were very similar to the ones I’d made. However, Jeanette sized the whole pattern up to my hip size, which is one size larger than my bust size. Then made adjustments to make the top smaller. I didn’t do that last year.

Fabric

   Our class cost included the pattern, swimsuit liner, and the finding kit, but not the actual swim fabric. I could have brought some from home, but chose instead to buy some from Jeanette in class. I chose this amazing black with fuchsia detailing. Isn’t this stunning?Now, I have to share a story with you. Jeanette brings suitcases full of bra kits and finding kits, plus other goodies to these classes. And we all descend on them like vultures. Honestly. Everything in the class comes to a stop when those cases open.

I saw this material, and another woman saw it at the same time. We agreed no one else was going to come near our material and we put it aside. There was a sweet Minnie Mouse panel that was also getting that same attention.

A Positive Note

There was one positive from last year’s attempt at a bathing suit – I made the bra that goes inside the suit last year, and it fit perfectly. Even more good news is I kept it thinking I’d use it again. And I did.I was able to bring in my swim bra and use that inside my new swimsuit. So last year wasn’t a complete wash.

My Swimsuit

     I’ve tried to pin this on so it fits a little better, but it really doesn’t fit my display. I have a long torso. Oh, that front panel is amazing.

Here’s the side view: The suit has lovely princess seams. We used the Pin-up Girls Denise pattern.And the back view: I love the keyhole opening at the back. It’s lovely, supportive, and it fits! This is the first time a one piece has ever been long enough for me.

Here’s mine and the rest of the swimsuits from the class: It was a great class. And I’m already looking forward to using my new pattern, and making a Tankini.

Happy creating!

Collage Quilts and Fitting Bras

~ Michelle ~ 4 Comments

I’m still working away on my Fitting Bras. Someone asked me why I was making 22 bras for me. These bras aren’t for me to wear. In fact, my size isn’t a more common size, so I won’t even be making one I can wear. No. I’m making these so customers can be fitted and I can make a bra for them.

Fitting Bra Three

Here’s Fitting Bra three. You can see, I’m getting more comfortable writing on them. The size is prominent on the upper cups. However, I also thought it would be a good idea to write the wire size and the bottom cup depth as well.Number four is half sewn, so only 18 1/2 left to sew up.

Break Time

I needed a break from sewing. I’ve just been too busy lately. I’ve been sewing strikes for Libelle Sewing’s Round 4 Pre-Order (which was great fun), and I’ve been taking classes (which I loved). However, all my fun came at the same time. I wanted a sewing break, but I still wanted to do something creative.

Last year when I took a class on Collage Quilting, a friend came with me to the Pop-Up Shop and we both bought the Paisley Bear collage quilt pattern, agreeing we would work on it together.Isn’t this great?

We did get together a few times. We ironed Steam-a-Seam 2 on the back of our fabrics and visited. We cut out some pieces and visited.

After our last get together, I got carried away. I finished my cutting out all my flowers after my friend left, and then I started to place some of my flowers. I was wondering if I had enough flowers cut out, or if I’d need more. Well, I placed one, then another… and I just kept going.

One of the great things about Steam a Seam 2 is you can move things around and decide just how you want things. At least you can move them around until that final ironing. Here, take a look at the eye I did the first time.I did like that little rosebud eye, but decided I wanted more pop for the eye, and nose. I thought it would look better if it didn’t blend in so much. As well, that large flower on the face just wasn’t sitting right with me.

In this next photo, I had made a couple of changes. I used a peacock feather for the eye and a little black-centered pansy for the nose. As well, I changed up the face a bit.This was better. Although there’s a lot more pop for the eye, I thought it was too much. And I still wasn’t happy with the face.

So, a little more cutting and moving things around, and here’s the final version. I’m still using a peacock feather for the eye, but only the very center of it. I think it looks much better now. In fact, I was happy with it at this point and ironed everything down.

There’s still a lot to do. I still need to finish my last collage quilt as well. They both need backings. And then I’ll quilt them both. As I need a break from sewing Fitting Bras, the Bra-Makers 2019 Challenge, or whatever else I’m sewing to keep busy, I’ll work on my quilts.

And I still have another collage quilt I want to make this year. This is the Perfect Form Dress Form collage quilt. It will be so pretty. I’m going to need a lot of flowers for this one.

Happy creating!

Back to Basics – BMS February Challenge

~ Michelle

The February Challenge for Bra-Makers Supply is “Building on Basics – One of the keys to great bra-making is a solid skill foundation. This February, we challenge you to share with us techniques you have found to make your bra sewing easier, faster or more professional looking. We’ll be sharing tutorials on the basics of intimate apparel sewing. Think of this month as the underpinnings of your underthings.“

I have two ideas to share with you this month for the challenge. Both fall under the category of techniques. As well, both concern sewing on the channeling.

Tip One

My first tip is to use a little bit of Wonder Tape.I was first introduced to this marvelous tape through bag-making. It’s really great for holding a zipper in place for sewing, but I’ve found it to be wonderful in bra-making too.

I use it to hold the channeling in place at the top of the cup – whether at the underarm, or at the bridge. It’s a small thing, but I found the channeling would move a bit on me, and I didn’t want it to move. Pins were too awkward to use with the channeling. At one point when I was making a handbag, I thought to use the wash-away tape to hold the channeling. I have to say it works really well.

I snip off a little more than a 1/4″ of the tape, stick it to the duoplex, peel off the backing, and press the channeling in place with my fingers. Voila! It holds the channeling for me so I can start to sew without the channeling moving on me at all. Here it is with the backing on it still.And below no pins are needed to hold the channeling in place. The channeling will stay. It’s a little thing, but it really does help.  Did you notice on the package it says ‘wash-away’? That’s right. I can leave it right there after I sew on the channeling, and it will wash away in the laundry. It doesn’t get much better than that.

Tip Two

My second tip has to do with how I sew on the channeling. One of the things to watch when sewing on channeling is you don’t leave too small an opening for the wires. I wasn’t having a problem with this, but am always looking for neater, better, easier results.

I was using my Stitch-in-the-ditch foot to do some top-stitching and thought to use the same foot to sew on my channeling.  I use the guide on the foot to guide me along the curve of the channeling. I can sew nice and close to the edge of the channeling. And I don’t have to worry about not enough room for the wires.

Here is my foot all lined up with my wash-away-tape-held channeling.I move my needle to be where I want it and away I sew. This gives a nice, neat, close-to-the-edge finish to the channeling.

And of course, you can use it on both sides of the channeling to get that same neat finish. I hope these little tips are helpful.

Happy creating!