June BMS Challenge – Blushing Bridal

~ Michelle ~ 2 Comments

June BMS Challelnge– Blushing Bridal – June is the time for brides and we share the joy of an upcoming wedding of one of our own staff members by challenging you (and us) to create garment suitable for a wedding trousseau. You can make any garment suitable for a bride’s trousseau or honeymoon. Oh, this is going to be so romantic!

This post is combining two things – the June BMS Challenge and a New Ruby pattern for me.

I knew when I took the Fitting Course at the end of April that my bra wasn’t fitting perfectly. In fact, one of the things I learned is I needed a few new adjustments to make my patterns fit.

A couple of these adjustments I knew – the ones for adjusting for an Omega shape. There were a new ones too. The new adjustments weren’t the only changes. My size had changed. I was down half a cup size, down a band size, and down a wire size. I was so glad to take the Fitting Course. On top of learning all the wonderful things I learned, I got measured again and I needed that.

So, between needing a new bra myself, and the challenge, it seemed a perfect time to make a new bra with all the changes, and make it fit the challenge.

My New Blushing Ruby

This turned out to be very pretty. Of course, there are still a few changes I want to make, but this fits so well. All the adjustments I learned are making this my best fitting bra yet.

A couple of the changes I made.

You already know I made a half a cup size smaller, and band size smaller, and a wire size smaller. I also made all my usual adjustments for being an Omega shape – small darts along all the bottom cup seams, smaller frame size than cup size. I also lowered my bridge, and raised the bottom of the bridge, and widened the bottom of the bridge too. And added the Gothic arch.

I’ve moved the strap placement over on this pattern. One of the things I love about the Ruby pattern is I don’t have to pull so very much all along the underarm with my elastic. Just a little pulling and it fits well.  Here’s the side view. Look how nicely the cup is fitting into the frame. Oh, I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again. I’ll never get tired of seeing how nicely the cups fit in after taking that class with Jeanette.

Something you can’t see here is there are two more adjustments right there in that photo – both to help with the wire fitting more comfortably.

Lastly, here’s the back, and one more adjustment.    The final adjustment I made was to move the straps in on the back.

Panties to Match

Continuing on the Blushing pink theme, I made some cotton Lycra panties to match my new Blushing Ruby bra.Seeing as the bra has white in the lace, I thought white lace trim would be perfect for these panties.These are my self-drafted Hipster panties, and you might notice the side seam is forward a little. That’s just so all my side seams aren’t hitting all at the same place.    And the back.

Here’s my new Blushing Ruby and panty set.It’s been a long time since I was a bride, but I love my new blushing bridal set.

Happy creating!

Color Blocked Agnes

~ Michelle

The halla agnes tops I made a few years ago have gotten so much wear, I thought it was time to make a few more.

I bought some adorable white polka dot, and black polka dot cotton Lycra, and knew they’d be adorable as a color blocked top. In fact, these were the left-over CLs I used for my May Challenge entry. I did have enough after cutting out my newest agnes.

Here’s my color blocked agnes.I adore this! Polka dots are a favorite of mine.

It’s pretty much the same view on the side and the back.I pulled out my Coverpro machine to finish the neckline, armholes, and hem.It really does such a nice job finishing.

Inspiration

   My color blocked agnes turned out so well, it gave me the inspiration to play with some other fabrics I have and make a few more agnes swing tops for this summer.

I have this awesome CL from Smoogie Fabric and Design. I’ve ordered a few prints from them and have loved them all. For this one, as an agnes, I was thinking something along these lines. I’d have the frost detail meet and graduate up and down on this one. I think it will look great.

I got busy. It doesn’t take long to sew up an agnes at all.I love how this turned out.

The one side meets perfectly and I’m so happy with that. The other side isn’t perfect how the patterns meet. However, it was all I could do with the material I had.The back is amazing as well.Yes. I love this!

While I was making tops, I pulled out another fabric I purchased from Smoogie Designs and cut it out too. This one won’t be color blocked though.

Isn’t this pretty?Here’s the view from the side.And the back view. Again it’s pretty much the same as the front view.All of these were finished with my Coverpro machine. I’m feeling very inspired with these new tops, and think I may look at what other fabrics and patterns I have to make for summer.

Happy creating!

May BMS Challenge – Spots and Stripes

~ Michelle ~ 4 Comments

The May Bra-Makers Supply Challenge is Spots and Stripes.

Here’s a challenge that will have you seeing spots before your eyes. Actually, you’ll be seeing spots, dots, lines and stripes. Let’s challenge our thinking about these pattern basics and create garments with dots and stripes. That’s any kind of dot or any kind of stripes, in any kind of intimate apparel. The trick is to use them together in the same garment.

My Entry

For my entry this month, I had a hard time deciding between the two possible projects – panties or tankini.

However, looking ahead just a little in the BMS Challenges for the year helped me make my decision. The July Challenge is Swimwear. Hmm. I just made a swimsuit. If I make a swimsuit now, and again in July for the Challenge, well, I don’t need that many swimsuits. I decided to save my tankini make for July.

Panties it is.

Front Feature Panties

Here is my entry using my own drafted panty pattern.I think these are adorable! In fact, I like them so much, I went on to cut out five more variations! I’ll show you those after I show you the side and back view of this first pair.

Here’s the side view. Oh, I love polka dots. Polka dots and lace take the love to a whole new level.And the back view.

Variations on a Theme

I really did think these were adorable, so made a second pair but reversed the prints. I changed the lace trim I used too. This is my favorite lace trim, and sadly, I can’t find it anymore. The vendor I purchased this from is no longer selling it.I used up the last of the stripes, and that inspired me to make a pair in the last of the black with white polka dots. These are so cute.I have two more pair of white with black polka dot panties all cut out, but somehow with a whole rack of thread, I didn’t have any white thread.

Those last two will have to wait.

Happy creating!

House Morrighan Ariadne Pattern

~ Michelle

House Morrighan is releasing another great pattern today! It’s the Ariadne Set.

The set consists of a harness and suspender belt.  I’ve seen some amazing sets made, but I didn’t participate in the testing this time. Look at these makes! Pleather, lace, gemstones. Oh my!Again, as with other House Morrighan patterns, there is a lovely range of sizes.

Happy creating!

Bra Fitting 101 Retreat

~ Michelle

At the end of April I took the Bra Fitting 101 Retreat at Central Sewing. Our instructor was Jeanette of Sew Uplifting Custom Bras.

Day One started with another gift bag for each of the students. Let me show you the goodies we got.There was a Fitting binder, and a bra and finding kit in my bag (not shown). As well as the great canvas tote. For students who hadn’t taken the Drafting course, they got a few more goodies like sample packs of Duoplex and Power Net, as well as a set of Pin-Up Girls patterns. I had all those already.

We also were given sheets of these little tiny bra parts that we’d be using over the next few days. We spent the morning cutting these out.On Day Two we were starting to learn what changes to make for different alterations – all using those little tiny bra pattern pieces. It was really great to have these, and to have them to keep as a reference.You can see here in this example, it wasn’t a complicated adjustment – just lengthening the band. Having the samples makes it much neater to look and see any of the adjustments – much better than me freehand drawing these examples.

On Days Three and Four we started to work with live models – who turned out to be the other students in the class. We fitted one another with wires, and with Jeanette’s fitting bras – all under the guidance of Jeanette.

I can tell you, I need more experience with both assessing wire sizes and cup sizes. I wasn’t way off. None of us were way off. But we weren’t able to look at someone and just know the size either. Jeanette made it look easy.

While each woman was in a fitting bra, we went through a check list of possible fitting issues. From basics like is that the right size cup, does the band fit, are the straps too long or short, to all the more detailed adjustments.

That takes us to Day Five.

On Day Five, Jeanette assigned each of us to make a bra for another student. But it was all hush-hush. We knew whose bra we were making, but not who was making one for us.

We all had a checklist, and traced off a bra pattern in the correct size. Then we made the alterations to that pattern based on what we’d seen in the fitting bras and what was on the check list.

Day Five was quiet and intense. We were all feverishly sewing trying to get our bras finished. I just made it.

One of the store clerks came to remind us we had to be packed up and out of the store in 20 minutes and I was still sewing! But I was at the hooks and eyes, so I finished those, gave the bra to my fellow student to try on, and saw what further adjustments she would need. I was close, but it wasn’t perfect. I quickly altered her pattern with a little more help from Jeanette, and gave my fellow student her bra and a newly re-adjusted pattern.

Then I managed to pack up just in time to make the store closing deadline.

Whew!

Are you wondering what the bra I made looked like? Well, I didn’t have time to take a single photo. I got home and my hubby said show me the bra you made, and I couldn’t even show him.

I can show you the bra I had made for me. And I can tell you it needs a few adjustments too.Overall, I have to say it was a great class, and gave us all some fabulous tools to take and use going forward.

Happy fitting and creating!

April BMS Challenge – A Spring in Your Step

~ Michelle

The April Bra-Makers Supply Challenge was A Spring in your step – this challenge is about making garments for an active lifestyle. How about jumping into the challenge and working with spandex, Supplex, wickables and other performance fabrics? Any type of activewear is eligible – be it shorts, leggings, running gear or gym wear. You can even make ath-leisure wear, that perfect combination of activewear and leisure wear.

I knew what I wanted to make for this Challenge. I saw the cutest, and littlest pair of athletic shorts  on a half-size mannequin at Central Sewing. Jeanette had sewn them to show with the half-size Ingrid on display there.I told Jeanette I was going to copy her idea. These are adorable, and I knew my own pair would go so well with the Ingrid bra I just made.

My Pattern

  Last year I made athletic pants for the Challenge. I used my self-drafted panty pattern to get the right size and shape, and the Pin-Up Girls Tankini bottoms to get an idea for the length and how to shape the legs.

For the pair I’m making for this year’s Challenge, I’m going to use the same bases for my new pattern, but change things up a bit more.

This year I didn’t want to make full-length pants. This year, I’m thinking Capri-length will be nice. As well, I’m adding that stripe of scuba down the side. I also wanted a different waistband this year. I wanted a cross-over waistband like in the Miami bikini shown below.

I’ll probably change that a bit too. I’m thinking I want it a bit higher than this waistband.

My Challenge Capris

I’m really happy with how my Challenge Capris turned out.

These are cotton Lycra and scuba from Bra-Makers Supply.

I’ve put the Capri pants on Catherine. I’m working on getting a Legs Display, but until then, Catherine will have to do.

Here’s my Ingrid showing the same scuba. Here’s the scuba panel I added to the side seam. The scuba is really nice to sew, and it adds such a lovely pop of color. I’m so glad I saw Jeanette’s little shorts and copied them.

And here’s the back view. Even the back has a little pop of color with the waistband.

Yes, these turned out very well.

I really like this waistband. It’s one piece that wraps all the way around the back to the front and overlaps. I added two inches to the height of the band pattern. I didn’t think the band would look as good if it was a narrower band – at least not on pants.Lastly, here I am putting my new capri-length pants to good use.I love these, and am happily planning my next Challenge entry.

Happy creating!

Platinum and Pink

~ Michelle ~ 6 Comments

I have a very pretty platinum and pink Ruby to share with you today.I really like the Ruby pattern. It gives a round cup shape, which for me, is perfect.

I’ve been saving this lace for a while too. It’s a lovely delicate grey with pink detail. I knew I’d love it with platinum duoplex, and I do.

Here’s a close-up of the upper cup showing the lace. Isn’t that pretty?

Changing Things Up

To make my Ruby into a lace upper cup like this, I’ve changed my pattern a bit. I cut the lace out without the strap tab that’s on the pattern. I just take my ruler and make a straight edge along the top – from the bridge all the way to the underarm. Then because I like a strap tab and still need something on which I can connect the strap or ring, I cut out the upper cup again with the strap tab in sheer cup lining.

You can see the sheer cup lining meeting the strap in the photo below. I’ve added a fabric strap to this one too. I do like a fabric strap, but am thinking I might still have fun playing with different straps for my Rubies. We’ll see what I come up with for straps going forward.

Here’s the side view of my Ruby.  You can just barely see the pink elastics I’ve used on this bra. I decided the pink was prettier. I also liked carrying the color around to the back of the bra. One last little detail.

Bows

One of the wonderful things about making our own bras is discovering the things we like and don’t like.

One of the things I’ve found I like is wider bows. I don’t love the thinner ones like on the left in the picture below. Now, those bows on the left are adorable because they’re polka dot, but I still prefer wider bows, like on the right in the photo below. I didn’t have a wider pink bow, but did have a narrow one. I decided to change the style of the bow by untying it, and ironing it flat. Then I folded it over, and attached the grey bow over it.I love how the two colors of the bra are in the bow too.

I have a few more Ruby bras planned for Spring.

Happy creating!

Cut and Sew Foam Class

~ Michelle

Another class I took this Spring was the Cut and Sew Foam bra class at Central Sewing, again with Jeanette of Sew Uplifting.

In this class Jeanette was teaching us cut and sew foam drafting and construction techniques with our personal fitted bra pattern. Most of the class sewed a foam bra from our drafted patterns. We all also received the Ruby bra pattern. Jeanette brought in her own sample foam bra, and we all had to inspect every detail of the bra. One detail I noticed was she used jewelry findings for the rings on the front. I loved that detail!The fabric on this is so pretty.

Pattern Problems

 I have to say, I really didn’t enjoy the first day of our class. My drafted pattern, which fits, wasn’t converting to a foam pattern easily.

Here’s my drafted bra. This fits me perfectly.  To make the pattern work for foam, all we had to do was cut off some of the seam allowances. I did that. I did that three times.

Each time I did it, I kept getting the same result. I was shorter along the cross cup seam on the top than on the bottom. My pattern pieces were not fitting together. Jeanette looked at my pattern pieces, and she tried to make them work. She couldn’t figure out what was wrong with those pieces either. For whatever reason, those pattern pieces would not line up.

It was so frustrating. I was using my original pattern, and had transferred all the markings from it. I cut off the correct seams. It should have worked, but it didn’t. It was out by a 1/2-inch!

So, I finally decided I’d just add that 1/2″ difference at the underarm side, and hope for the best.

My Foam Bra

We used a lovely scuba for the foam bras, and they were all so pretty. Here’s mine. I’ve used the red and black floral scuba with all red findings, including red foam on the inside.

Here’s the side view, showing more of the red. One small disappointment was my band turned out to be too big. It’s not fitting well on the display either.Looking at it when I was sewing it, I thought it might be, so I just have the hook and eye tacked on here. I’ll take that off and trim off a bit from each side. After I measure and compare to a well-fitting band, of course.

Class Details

     One of the very pretty features we learned in our class was to do a rolled edge on our bras.Isn’t that a neat and pretty neckline finish? Below you can see it from the inside of the cup.We also learned how to stabilize our strap elastics to give better support. We’ve sewn non-stretch seam tape to the inside of our straps at the front. It’s nice and soft, and helps keep those elastics from stretching.

My Adjustment

 You can see here in the photo below how I added that 1/2″ to my foam upper cup.Have you been wondering how that adjustment turned out?

Well, let me just say I had two choices – I could have made it a little longer, or I could have made it a little shorter. My logic was shorter wouldn’t be better because it could end up too small.

And the results? My bra is 1/2″ too big at the underarm.

Sigh.

The good news is the bra is still wearable, and I’ve adjusted my foam pattern to account for that 1/2″ extra at the underarm. Why it wasn’t all lining up, I’m not sure I’ll ever know, but the pattern has been corrected and is good for my next bra now.

Happy creating!

Supportive Swimsuit Class

~ Michelle

I took another class at Central Sewing. The Supportive Swimsuit class. Jeanette, of Sew Uplifting, was the instructor.

First Attempts

Last year when the Bra-Makers Challenge was Swimwear, I did try making a swimsuit on my own.

I had the Craftsy (now Bluprint) class Sewing Swimsuits, and my pattern. I thought I’d do just fine.

 The first thing I did was figure out what size to make, and I made a muslin.I made this muslin in cotton Lycra, and all seemed to be going well.

Then, after making a few adjustments to my pattern, I cut into my swim material.This is where I started to think something wasn’t right. It was too small on the mannequin. I’m bigger than the mannequin. There was a problem.

At this point, seeing it was going to be too small, I didn’t continue sewing to see how it was all going to go together.And I didn’t enter the Challenge that month.

Fast forward a year.

The Class

The first thing I learned in the class was my measurements were spot on last year. That was good news.

As well, it seemed the alterations Jeanette was adding to my pattern were very similar to the ones I’d made. However, Jeanette sized the whole pattern up to my hip size, which is one size larger than my bust size. Then made adjustments to make the top smaller. I didn’t do that last year.

Fabric

   Our class cost included the pattern, swimsuit liner, and the finding kit, but not the actual swim fabric. I could have brought some from home, but chose instead to buy some from Jeanette in class. I chose this amazing black with fuchsia detailing. Isn’t this stunning?Now, I have to share a story with you. Jeanette brings suitcases full of bra kits and finding kits, plus other goodies to these classes. And we all descend on them like vultures. Honestly. Everything in the class comes to a stop when those cases open.

I saw this material, and another woman saw it at the same time. We agreed no one else was going to come near our material and we put it aside. There was a sweet Minnie Mouse panel that was also getting that same attention.

A Positive Note

There was one positive from last year’s attempt at a bathing suit – I made the bra that goes inside the suit last year, and it fit perfectly. Even more good news is I kept it thinking I’d use it again. And I did.I was able to bring in my swim bra and use that inside my new swimsuit. So last year wasn’t a complete wash.

My Swimsuit

     I’ve tried to pin this on so it fits a little better, but it really doesn’t fit my display. I have a long torso. Oh, that front panel is amazing.

Here’s the side view: The suit has lovely princess seams. We used the Pin-up Girls Denise pattern.And the back view: I love the keyhole opening at the back. It’s lovely, supportive, and it fits! This is the first time a one piece has ever been long enough for me.

Here’s mine and the rest of the swimsuits from the class: It was a great class. And I’m already looking forward to using my new pattern, and making a Tankini.

Happy creating!

Wireless Freedom – BMS March Challenge

~ Michelle

The March BMS Challenge is all about going wireless, and we’re not talking WiFi.

This month is about Marching toward freedom – freedom from wires! Wireless freedom, as they say. So the bras you make this month won’t use any underwires. Let’s see all those creative bralettes, Ingrids, and your wire-free conversions from the Classic or Jewel series of bras.

The first bra I’m submitting to the Challenge is one made during a class. The class was the Sports Bra (The Many Faces of Ingrid) class at Central Sewing. It was another class Jeanette, of Sew Uplifting, was teaching.

My Ingrid

Here’s my new Ingrid. Jeanette brought the materials for us to use. We had our choice of this nice bright scuba on my Ingrid, a more pastel floral, or duoplex. I chose the brighter fabric, most of the class chose the pastel floral, and one student made a duoplex Ingrid.Oh, I like this. It’s nice and bright with a lot of pop! It would be pretty hard to mirror scuba prints, but I did try to get as much of the same pink as possible in my cups.

I made a change in my center front. Instead of using power net, I used power mesh for a different look.

Omega Adjustments

Having Jeanette fit me, and seeing the changes she made to the cup pattern helped me learn something. It was great to see what alterations she made on this cup style. The cup is very different from the PUG Classic, or Shelley, and those are the patterns I’ve worked with the most.

Here’s my bra from the side. I chose to finish my Ingrid with wide elastic rather than lingerie elastic.The wider elastic really makes it feel secure when it’s on. This elastic is called Comfort Elastic, and it really is comfortable.

And the back.Just for fun, I added Fuchsia rings and sliders for a little more color on the back.

I’ve worn this bra a few times now, and it really is comfortable. I’d also promised Em another bralette, so had to make time for that too.

A New Sweet Sixteen

The Pin-Up Girls Sweet Sixteen pattern was revised, and of course I had to try it. (You all know I have a pattern addiction.)

Here are the two patterns. The older one is on the left, and the new one is on the right.Here’s Em’s Sweet Sixteen in all lace.  This is a lovely red, beige & tan lace. It’s very pretty. I made sure to save  some of this for me.

  Here’s the bralette from the side.And here’s the back. Em wanted a more decorative back, but until I know this size is just right for her, she’s only getting a lace back. We’ll do some fancier back details on the next one.I finished this bralette off with some purchased straps. These were marked down to 25 cents. I grabbed a few of them thinking even if I only used the rings and sliders, which are metal, they’d be worth it. I’m glad I was able to use the straps too though.

Em has tried on her new bralette, and tells me she needs a larger band and cup size. So as it turns out, this is the second bralette I’ve made for a friend of Em’s.

I’m off to sew more Fitting bras.

Happy creating!